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Showing 1 - 10 of 9,467 Products.

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Dorman
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-0A6147A    674-870  New

101469 , 90537679

Qty:
$146.14
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 3
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Manifold Bolt Hole Quantity: 10
    • Package Contents: Exhaust Manifold, 1 Manifold Gasket And 1 Flange, 3 Studs, 3 Nuts
    • Port Shape: Oval
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Cavalier
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$215.38
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • ; Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • Shape: Large Round
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Cavalier L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Husky Liners
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • ; Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Chevrolet Cavalier Rear
ACDelco
2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2002 - Chevrolet Cavalier GAS OHV
ACDelco
2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2002 - Chevrolet Cavalier GAS OHV
ACDelco
2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2002 - Chevrolet Cavalier GAS OHV
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Cavalier Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Chevrolet Cavalier
ACDelco
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Chevrolet Cavalier
ACDelco
1989 Chevrolet Cavalier Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-2A1A918    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$27.34
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Chevrolet Cavalier
ACDelco
1987 Chevrolet Cavalier Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-2A1A918    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$27.34
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Chevrolet Cavalier

Showing 1 - 10 of 9,467 Products.


Latest Chevrolet Cavalier Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Dome Light/Door Issue

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From iamoasis on 2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Dome Light/Door Issue

Good morning,

Specs
2005
Chevrolet
Cavalier
2.2
80000km = 50000miles

Despite all of the -40C/-22F weather my car has been subjected to, my car hasn't had any issues.... except for when I open my front driver's side door (after removing the keys from the ignition), the dome light does not turn on, nor does the radio shut off. However, if I open any other door in the car, the dome light turns on. This leads me to indicate there's a sensor or something in the front driver's side door that's no longer working?

Am I on the right track? Is there a sensor in the door?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read and any help you are willing to provide!

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Almost all are either a physical switch in door jams or at the latch inside the door. Look for a button and defrost it! Lock deicer might do the trick in in the door jam and WD-40 if just stuck insides at door latch. That cold does funky things, trust me and you need be used to some basic tricks,

T

Response From iamoasis

Thank Tom. Something to do with the door latch now rings a bell. I went to the car wash a few weeks ago since it was completely covered with snow (I don't have a garage), and I remember having some issues closing the door afterwards. It wouldn't shut so I suspect it was frozen in that state. I closed it briskly, which may have resulted in me screwing that up...

I will have a look at the latch and hopefully locate the problem.

Thanks,
Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Car wash drive thru types are common where I am. If too cold just forget it. They are open but even the ones the dry off the car there water where it won't like freezing up.

Prevention is to lube hinges, locks and latches routinely. It's a staple to have WD-40. It will not last way too long but does kinda keep moisture out and great on the inside to spray back sides of door latches as you can't unless the panels are off.

For button type door switches exposed I will use it on the buttons that sense door is open.

OK - if you get aggressive or are a door slammer you will cause problems and can break things. For now look for a plain button much like most home refrigerators use to make a light come on in assorted styles,

T

Response From DanD

It is a pin switch on these cars.



You'll find it in the crotch of the door, on the pillar between the hinges.

Dan.

Response From iamoasis

Thank you so much everyone!

Nice picture DanD... exactly it. I'm a visual person so I like that!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DanD is an ace and pics of item do help for sure. Did just spraying this make it work again? It may have self corrected when dried out? My guess is it's just that item and either permantly not going to work again or will respond to like a wire drier spray or even WD-40 and when warmed up.

Side note: That cold snap was enough where I am too. Tempting as it is to have vehicle clean it's best to wait. Windows, door rubber to metal - all of it. Bet you are all set now that most places that blast is gone and did find itself in places that it doesn't do that to that extreme. Car wash places finally shut down where I am if cold enough despite being heated in the drive thru,

T

2001 Chevrolet Cavalier Window Crank Stuck

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Massalinie on 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier Window Crank Stuck

After rolling the rear driver's side window down, the crank stuck an the window would not roll back up. It was so stiff I worried I would break the handle before I could get it to go back up.

I took the door panel off and rolled the window up manually, but what can I do to make sure rolls up more smoothly so it doesn't stick again?

Response From Hammer Time

The regulator is probably sprung now and will likely have to be replaced but try lubing up the channels with silicone spray as Tom suggested first.

Response From Massalinie

We tried greasing up the track a bit, but what it actually looks like is happening is one of the bolts on the track is catching on the regulator (I think that's what that part is called) if you roll the window down all the way. You can feel it gets stiffer if you roll it down further than this, and once it gets to the bottom, it hooks an you have to pull the regulator out a little to unhook the bolt so you can roll it back up. Other than that it rolls up and down fine now. I'm not sure why this is happening all of a sudden; it's not like that window's never been rolled down before. But what can I do about it?

This is the bolt causing the problem, the window is down most of the way, any lower and the bolt goes behind that bar and eventually out the bottom where it gets stuck.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's because the regulator is sprung (bent) and can never be straightened once that happens. It will bend right back. You need to get the window working freely and then replace the regulator.

Response From Massalinie

Ah I see, well that sucks. Thanks for the quick response, I'll look into getting it replaced.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?Anything happen to that door - children playing or something? Could use a careful look to see if window is properly in its track and while there lube any rollers with WD-40 first then spray white grease. Drying silicone spray in the rubber channels can help as the fur on the channels acts like lube.

Chances are this window doesn't go completely down and wonder if helping it with one hand and cranking solves it. I really think it is just off its track or something bent from forcing it,

T

2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

Showing 4 out of 15 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From bambino12 on 2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

Hello All!

I own a Chevrolet Cavalier year 2000, 2.2L engine. It is about 70 000 miles

There is a leakage in my cooling system.

Drops do not come either from radiation nor from coolant deposit, nor from the water pump.

I can see drops coming from a strange pipe.

Im bad to explain things, I attach a picture

There you can see the plastic pipe Im talking about. Also, you can see the coolant pond on the floor.

About a month ago I took my car to service (tunning, refill all levels, oil change, engine wash and so on). I wonder if the guys at the service center forgot to connect something.

Also, I don't use this car too much, I only use it on weekends. Last weekend I just noticed a bad smell (like something burning) and that´s the way I noticed there was a leakage, it was the smell of hot coolant fluid. I also replaced the deposit's cap, since the previous one just broke, I guess because of the heat.

I noticed then the "low coolant level" warning light in my dahsboard.

Thanks all!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That little rubber elbow is to let water (condensate) from the air conditioner out in season when they make water in humid weather. The same case (inside car) hold the heater core which is a miniature radiator for heat. If that leaks it could leak engine coolant out that hose but usually there is a sign on the right interior floor or if you look up under there it might show some coolant - is slippery in fingers compared to plain water - wash hands please if you get it on them.

That's what the thing looks like to me. I could be wrong and a heater core replacement should be verified by someone checking that out in person. Sometimes a hose can leak or have a pin hole that squirts like fishing line and make some place show coolant and the leak isn't there at all!

I'd have the system pressure tested and point out where you have seen coolant but don't make the diagnosis for them or you just may get a heater core and not need it! Fill cooling system now with proper mix of anti-freeze and water - usually 50/50 - filled at radiator first and then the tank (recovery) that you can see the level in. If this doesn't have a radiator cap it will have to be filled by taking a hose up high off as it may not draw in coolant from just the recovery tank when low enough to make the light come on or if the leak won't allow the vacuum action to draw it back in,

T

Good luck,

T

Response From bambino12

Hello Tom!!

I think you are rightm although my car lacks Air Conditioner system. In any casse I think you and Jim are right.

Will check the interior floor.

By the way, this morning I filled the deposit(recovery tank). Im not sure if radiator has any cap.

Well, I just filled deposit/recovery tank to the indicated level when cold.

Then I turned on the engine for about 5 minutes.

I looked at the floor, I noticed drops, continuos, not a line of fluid, just drops but very continuos, I would say about two drops per second.

It took me some time to identifie such elbow pipe that seems to go nowhere (as Jim said)

Will check the floor.

Many thanks!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That elbow pipe is just a drain for moisture if what I'm thinking and shouldn't have coolant either way as said. If all you have is a pressure radiator (even if not on the radiator itself) cap on the tank you added to then that cap is the pressure cap - if you have to unscrew it, it is the pressure cap and you could leave it loose to stop the dripping or slow it down. That tank is not capable of filling the whole cooling system once the level you can't see is down and you said a light was on which is probably sensing liquid in an end tank of the radiator itself which should always be full even though you can't see it.

This needs to be looked at and almost certainly is needing a new heater core. They almost always drip into the car when they are the leak as you have noticed.

If you leave the pressure cap loose that's just a temporary way to slow down the loss of coolant - not a fix. Don't lose the cap either.

You would get some coolant into the radiator and hence engine by just filling that reservior and start engine for a while - like just enough to show the temp needle coming up and shut it off - just wait till it's cool and it probably has taken back some coolant from that tank. If so - do that a few times till "low coolant" light is out and your next trip should be short and to get this taken care of. Now is a good time to be thankful for not having A/C as that would make the job much more complicated and expensive.

Hey - if you are going to drive this at all like this pay sharp attention to the gauges. Run heater on full heat request and low fan and if that goes cool on you the coolant is low or boiling - odd but an overheating car doesn't heat the interior thru the heater! This is probably just in need of the heater core right now and if you pay strict attention and do not overheat the car it would really help limit any further problems from overheating.

Good luck with it,

T

Response From Lando10101

Regardless of anything the system will have to be opened find a good mechanic some of them heater cores require major teardown . Good Luck

Response From bambino12

Tom and Lando,

Thanks again for all of your valuable help.

I keep note of your advice and it is amazing how much one can learn from this forum.

Tomorrow I will take it to my mechanic that is less than a mile away from home.

I pray this would not be an expensive repairment.

I will report any progress.

Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for letting us know. This car with no air conditioning should be MUCH easier to do what is usually a difficult job. I doubt it would be cheap but having to deal with A/C components can be more than half the work of replacing a heater core. Either way it's not really a good do it youself job unless you have some strong know how with these sorts of things - it's involved with assorted dash parts to get the case apart and or out to replace it,

T

Response From bambino12

Hello Tom, Jim, etc..

This morning I just took the car to my usual mechanic.

He did exactly the same diagnostic as you. It is the heat core. He explained me that this much like a small radiator that works to heat the air for defroster.

He gave me the option of totally disconnect such damaged radiator, and do some sort of bypass to avoid it and have the cooling system working just fine, at the price of lacking defroster.

I decided to go the expensive way. He is charging me about $300 bucks for all the job, including a new heat core.

I sometimes doubt wether mechanics really install original brand new parts. I decided to trust him as he is giving me warranty.

Do you think I got a good deal? Was I fooled?

many thanks!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That sounds great! You can bypass the heater in some circumstances as a temporary measure. It couldn't be something you could live without with any ice or defrosting need though - at least around here.

That's a nice price. Keep in mind that many cars that have A/C that must be emptied and refilled to do this job and that part alone would cost what your whole job is quoted for. Some of the cores can be fixed but most people today would replace them.

Good luck. All seems fair to me,

T

Response From Double J

I'm with Tom there....

Thats a super deal.....

Thanks for posting back.....

JIm

Response From Double J

Is that just a small elbow type hose,that comes out the firewall and goes nowhere..
If so..thats the evaporator case drain...
The heater core is probably leaking.
Do you notice any coolant inside on the passenger floorboard under the carpet?
Any unusual steam coming up thru the defrost duct..film on the windshield?
Thats what the pic's look like....

Response From bambino12

Hello Jim!

Yeah!!

I think you are right.

My car doesn't have Air Conditioner, but it certainly has defrost/ventilation fan.

And the smell certainly comes from the defrost/ventilation ducts.

I will check about coolant inside the passenger floorboard.

Also, will turn on the defrost to see if some steam is forming on the windshield.

As I use my car little (only on weekends and for very short trips) I have not had time to look at details, but will do some testing.

So.... is the heater core some kind of device that heats the air for defrost purposes?

Do you think it would imply an expensive repair? Just don't want me to be fooled by my mechanic.

Many thanks!!!!!!!

I will report my findings! This forum is great!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Same heater core for heat or defrost. Not sure if the drain hose is still used for car without A/C or not but it shouldn't be leaking coolant there either way,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey Jim! Same thought except you were more concise!

T

Response From Double J

Great minds think alike...

I'm a man of few words...
Wished I could explain fully like you do.
You "Paint" the better picture for sure