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Best Selling Genuine Volvo Headlights

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Pronto, TYC, APA/URO Parts, Professional Parts Sweden
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We stock Headlights parts for most Volvo models, including C30, C70, S40, S60, S70, S80, V40, V50, V70, XC70, XC90, 240, 244, 245, 740, 850, 940, 960.

Pronto
1989 Volvo 245 Headlight Assembly - Left Pronto

P311-0788F49    34432106  New

Qty:
$109.31
Pronto Headlight Assembly  Left
Brand: Pronto
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Volvo 245 Left
TYC
2005 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-2D9A9FB    W0133-1915679  New

Qty:
$362.29
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Chas: 425140-, with Halogen
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo S60 T5 425140 and up
TYC
2007 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-2D9A9FB    W0133-1915679  New

Qty:
$362.29
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • with Halogen
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2007 - Volvo S60 T5
TYC
2005 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-3757329    W0133-1915680  New

Qty:
$369.99
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Chas: 425140-, with Halogen
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo S60 T5 425140 and up
TYC
2007 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-3757329    W0133-1915680  New

Qty:
$369.99
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • with Halogen
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2007 - Volvo S60 T5
APA/URO Parts
2014 Volvo XC90 Headlight Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-03AD571    W0133-1845801  New

Qty:
$354.32
APA/URO Parts Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • with Halogen
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Volvo XC90
APA/URO Parts
2014 Volvo XC90 Headlight Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-11679A1    W0133-1845802  New

Qty:
$354.32
APA/URO Parts Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • with Halogen
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Volvo XC90
TYC
2007 Volvo V70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-0277381    W0133-1900826  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • with Halogen
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2007 - Volvo V70 2.5T
TYC
2005 Volvo XC70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-0277381    W0133-1900826  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Chas: 173074-, with Halogen
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo XC70 173074 and up
TYC
2005 Volvo V70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-0277381    W0133-1900826  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Halogen - Inc. Side Marker which is not available Separately.
    with Factory Code #1 from Chassis # 459096, with Factory Code #2 from Chassis # 459386
    If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate : looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Volvo V70 T5
TYC
2007 Volvo V70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-203165A    W0133-1900825  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • with Halogen
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2007 - Volvo V70 2.5T
TYC
2005 Volvo XC70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-203165A    W0133-1900825  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Chas: 173074-, with Halogen
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo XC70 173074 and up
TYC
2005 Volvo V70 Headlight Assembly TYC - Halogen

P311-203165A    W0133-1900825  New

Qty:
$515.87
TYC Headlight Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Halogen - Inc. Side Marker which is not available Separately.
    with Factory Code #1 from Chassis # 459096, with Factory Code #2 from Chassis # 459386
    If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate : looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • If " Factory Code " is needed, you must look at the Product/ ID plate looking from left to right on the 1st line, this code is in the 5th position.
  • Halogen
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Volvo V70 T5
APA/URO Parts
2003 Volvo S80 Headlight Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-469B761    W0133-1597942  New

Qty:
$342.02
APA/URO Parts Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Halogen
  • Halogen - Left
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Volvo S80
APA/URO Parts
2003 Volvo S80 Headlight Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-17FE0BE    W0133-1597991  New

Qty:
$342.02
APA/URO Parts Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Halogen
  • Halogen - Right
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Volvo S80
Professional Parts Sweden
2004 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly Professional Parts Sweden

P311-1C2448B    W0133-1597973  New

Qty:
$212.52
Professional Parts Sweden Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • with Halogen
  • Halogen - Left
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Volvo S60 T5
Professional Parts Sweden
2005 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly Professional Parts Sweden

P311-1C2448B    W0133-1597973  New

Qty:
$212.52
Professional Parts Sweden Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Chas: -425139, with Halogen
  • Halogen - Left
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo S60 T5 up to 425139
Professional Parts Sweden
2001 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly Professional Parts Sweden

P311-1DE447B    W0133-1598024  New

Qty:
$216.59
Professional Parts Sweden Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • with Halogen
  • Halogen - Right
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Volvo S60
Professional Parts Sweden
2004 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly Professional Parts Sweden

P311-1DE447B    W0133-1598024  New

Qty:
$216.59
Professional Parts Sweden Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • with Halogen
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Volvo S60 T5
Professional Parts Sweden
2005 Volvo S60 Headlight Assembly Professional Parts Sweden

P311-1DE447B    W0133-1598024  New

Qty:
$216.59
Professional Parts Sweden Headlight Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Chas: -425139, with Halogen
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
2005 - Volvo S60 T5 up to 425139

Latest Volvo Repair and Headlights Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Volvo S60 Headlights

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From brandysman on 2004 Volvo S60 Headlights

My girlfriend has a 2004 Volvo S60, I replaced both headlights and high beams back in February. Recently Both headlights went out, the highs still work. I checked all the fusses and connections with no luck. My only guess now is to either try new headlights or take it to the dealer. The thing is the lights that I put on in february were top of the line. Any suggestions

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Check for power at the socket plugs. It's possible to get the wrong wattage and they won't last or work well,

T

2000 Volvo S40 passenger light out

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From chiquitaberlinda on 2000 Volvo S40 passenger light out

We have changed the bulb twice, replaced the fuse and replaced the connection to the bulb, it is still not working (the low beam). The high beam works and the parking light is always on. Please help! I am at my wit's end! I hate bringing the car in because it always costs so much! Any ideas?

Response From cpaine0106

Sounds very likely to be a short. The power or ground from the low beam could have shorted and completed the parking light circuit. Just my guess based on the information provided. Without a general knowledge of electronics and a schematic, it's gonna be tough to fix.

Response From chiquitaberlinda

Thanks for responding. One more note I forgot to add is that the light was going out then back on for long periods of time, so that's why I changed the connection, I thought something was loose then got disconnected.
The light in the dashboard that indicates a light is out is not on.

Response From cpaine0106 Top Rated Answer

I'm not to familiar with volvo's bulb monitoring system, but I'm assuming the "bulb out indicator light" is in the gauge cluster. Verify that the indicator is functioning properly by turning the key to the run position without starting the engine. The light should come on for a few seconds, then go out. As long as that happens, but it does not come on when the headlights are turned on, the system thinks the headlight is working. What this means, is that the circuit is most likely complete, even though the headlight isn't turning on. That being said, it is extremely likely to be a short somewhere. You'll either have to hunt it down, or take it to someone else that knows there way around an electrical circuit. I say "extremely likely" because i cannot know for certain without actually taking a look at it. Best of luck

Headlights drawing too much power

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From p40ace on Headlights drawing too much power

87 Volvo. When the headlights are turned on, the car will lug or stall altogether, never again to restart without a jump. Can't find a short.

Any ideas.

Response From p40ace

THx I'll give it a try. It will strart up in the morinings however even after sitting as long as I haven't let it stall with the headlights. Do you still maintain that it would be alternator cables or battery or a combo.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

As a generic reply to your question, yes, I wouls say it is either in the battery or charging system. Have them checked and let us know the results. To properly diagnose the system takes a little time and knowledge. If you want the basics of the test just let us know and someone will help you.

Response From way2old

You either have a really bad battery or a really weak alternator or a combination of both. Possibly could be corrosion on the cable connections, both ends.

01 Volvo S60 A/C no condensate - compressor cuts off

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 01 Volvo S60 A/C no condensate - compressor cuts off

2001 Volvo 2.4T with 153,000 miles blows 40 degrees with Dallas temps 90 - 100 R.H. 50% to 60% until driven a few miles and then the compressor cuts off. Then I turn off all the A/C controls for few minutes and then turn the A/C back on and it blows ice again for another few miles.

Whether sitting still or rolling there is zero condensate coming from the car and there is no dampness on the carpets.

So far the A/C does not cut off if I sit in the car for 10 to 15 minutes idiling.

Response From Hammer Time

40 degrees is too cold. You probably have a bad cycling switch.

Response From comnavguy

Thanks, but it still doesn't make sense. I can sit in the car for a long time with the AC blowing ice UNTIL I start to drive it. Within a couple of blocks it quits. I haven't taken it on the highway to see if it re-starts itself, but I can stop the car, cut it off for a few minutes and upon restart, the AC is blowing cold again and will continue blowing cold until it starts to roll again.

And where is the cycling switch on this car? Please don't tell me it's in the compressor

And I still have zero condensation .

Response From Hammer Time

If it runs that cold without cycling, it will freeze the evaporator.
Turns out your uses a temp sensor in the evaporator. That should be cycling the compressor off if it gets too cold.

Response From comnavguy

OK. I just bought a new, accurate themometer. The temp at the center vent is 48.

I can let the car sit and idle for 20 to 30 minutes and it stays at 48 to 50 with the high side pressure steady at 250 PSI. The OLD book I have calls for Volvo pressures from 406 to 450 PSI, years 95 thru 99. I do not have year 2001.I

The minute I push the RPM above 2000, the compressor cuts off and will not start again until I turn the car off, let it sit for a few minutes and re-start.

I now suspect a defective high pressure switch but can not locate iit in the high line.

Can you tell me where that switch is located so I can replace it?

Response From Hammer Time

No way on the 450. That will just kill a compressor. Even your pressures are a bit on the high side.

Response From comnavguy

Exactly on the pressure, but that's what Haynes has in their manual (doorstop) for years up to 1999. In that same book, years earlier than 95, the highest pressure is 227. I've never seen any pressures on anything going to 400.

So, I still suspect the high pressure cut off switch is defective. I know it's in the high line, but it would be very helpful if you or someone could tell me where and save me from having to remove several shrouds to trace the line.

Response From Hammer Time

I think that they are telling you is the high pressure cutoff is in the 400s. I believe it uses one pressure sensor that reads all pressures and it looks like it's in the liquid line, behind the right front headlamp.

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer

That MUST be it. Volvo is the only car group in the Haynes manual with pressures that high, and only on vehicles from 95 to 99. I'll take the headlight out to see if the sensor is in that area. I hope.

Thanks for everything.

Response From Hammer Time

Just follow the line from the condenser.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pay attention to HT - he knows what he's doing,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

I put HT in a class by himself. The best.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No argument. Just think for a moment................. we are all volunteers and not paid here! NOT JUST AN AMERICAN SITE BUT GOD BLESS AMERICA. Happy fourth,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

It IS the clutch. Lots of troubleshooting and hair-pulling.

I tapped the clutch with a huge screwdriver and it engaged. Ran the RPM up and the clutch disengaged. Let he engine go back to idle, tapped the clutch again and it engaged.

NEW CLUTCH required.

Thanks guys/gals for all the suggestions and help.

I've never seen a clutch fail in this way. Live'n learn.

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure it's not just too much air gap. Sometimes you can move the plate closer and resolve that. It still needs to have clearance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

3.5 to 4-5 ohms at clutch it''s - otherwise it's excessive clutch air gap as Hammer said,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

I think this guy is going to buy a new compressor, but can you tell me how to adjust the air gap on compressor clutches? Also, is the 3.5 to 4.5 Ohms the coil resistance?

We're on our 14th straight day of over 100. NEED cool.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you buy new with clutch (highly recommended) it should be all adjusted but check. Gap is usual in general .020 +/- and your are correct on ohms. Spin oil thru any replacement oil prior to installation, measure what comes out of old one and the condition of it. Follow any suggestions that come with compressor.

I did not re-read the whole thread so your call on if this is a compressor problem or not. Quick re-read of no condensate? Compressor may not be the issue. Go by pressures at the temps. See top post for CHARGING PROCEDURES may help,

T

Volvo bad battery or alternator? or both?

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From miiiiike on Volvo bad battery or alternator? or both?

Hi everyone, first post here =]

My car is:
2001
Volvo
C70 ht
5 cylinder turbo (not sure of size)
109,000 miles

So I was driving home on a very rainy night last Friday, and when I got home, I accidentally left the interior lights on in the car. I know this because my neighbor told me the next day. So the car won't start, I figure the battery is dead. I pop the hood and notice a large snowball on the terminals, so before I jump the car, I disconnect the terminals and clean them pretty well with a wire brush. I jump the car and it starts up, and I let it idle for a few minutes and everything seems fine. My voltometer is reading at about 12v which seems right so I shut off the car.

A few minutes later it wont start again, so I jump it again, and take it for a drive around a few blocks to hopefully charge the battery more. Works fine, park it and shut it off, and start it up again a few times, seems fine. 2 hours later its dead again. I tried a few tests I saw online, like looking for dimming of the headlights or looking at the voltometer when the car actually started up, nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

I take out the battery and get it tested at my nearby auto supply store, they say it comes back with a good result. The battery is charged, I reconnect it and try to start it again in a few hours. It is still working great so I assume the problem is solved. This morning, it started up fine, I drove it to work and parked. I even did a test to start it back up again after I got to work and it was fine. I got off work today though and its dead again and I have to call AAA to come give me a jump. The tow guy said he thinks its the battery. Once it was started I drove it home (about 20 miles) and it worked fine. Im assuming in a few hours it will be dead again, what the heck is going on?

Sorry for the long post, just figured more info might help narrow it down more. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Volts alone just sitting there doesn't mean much. What will it put out while running with everything on is a load test of sorts.

Batteries don't age well and not all are created equal. How old is it? More than 3-4 years just get rid of it for a quality new one and charge it even new.

Alternators don't like to charge up a real close to dead or dead one and get about red hot sometimes trying - not good for either. They can go with each other and not good to allow them to go dead but it happens and that alone can kill one. Get an automatic battery charger that will shut off by itself when done. Short bucks really when you consider how useful they are,

T

Response From miiiiike

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately there isn't a marked date on top of the battery, i just bought the car a few months back. I'm thinking either there might be too much corrosion on the inside of the terminals even though i cleaned them pretty well, or my dad suggested the voltage regulator in the alternator. Either of those sound right?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are playing with fire over a battery so far. All batteries are marked as to exactly how old they are - that way if under warranty without a receipt or other reasons they know how old it is.

Ex: Many will say a letter and a single digit. A-2 would mean January, 2012 and so on and some are oblique but you can find out.

Who cares if you have all this corrosion there's a problem going on. Post voltage with it charged and running at least with terminals clean and tight. Don't be guessing on stuff as if that shorts out you might find yourself out thousands in problems! Never mind what the dog, cat neighbor suggests for maybe things, get real answers - too important - trust me!

What brand is it and I could tell you at least my thoughts on the dependability of it. Forget places like Walmart, or similar places as the dang things get so mishandles, dropped or who knows that know nothing about them and choke the hell out of manufacturers for price that quality downright suks.

Get a charger or even (I own at least 4) "Maintainer/charger" that is automatic and will shut off or back on. One by Shumacher is only $21 bucks will show red then amber then green led light when done but still doesn't mean that battery can take a load or has the amps for cranking. You can watch simple voltage drop while cranking that gives you a clue that things are well or have it load tested if you want to play with this one.

Testing alternator on car I find best,

T

Response From miiiiike

Thanks again for the help guys, so the car started up again this morning which was really confusing, but I decided to buy a new battery regardless, the old one looked... well it looked old and it may have been leaking. We'll see if it starts up tonight, if not Ill just bring it to a mechanic tomorrow morning and have them take a look. Thanks for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Glad you did that and your choice to let a pro help. It would be nice since you just got this car to get this over with and trust it.

Thanks for the follow up,

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

I jump the car and it starts up, and I let it idle for a few minutes and everything seems fine. My voltmeter is reading at about 12v which seems right so I shut off the car.


If you were reading 12 volts with the engine running, then there isn't much question that you are having a problem with the charging system.