Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Head Gasket

Choose a Year for your Mini 's Head Gasket

  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Ajusa
    Ajusa
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Elring
    Elring
  • FelPro
    FelPro
  • Victor Gaskets
    Victor Gaskets
  • Victor Reinz
    Victor Reinz

Best Selling Genuine Mini Head Gaskets

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Elring, Ajusa, Victor Reinz, FelPro, Victor Gaskets
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mini Replacement Head Gasket Parts

We stock Head Gasket parts for most Mini models, including Cooper, Cooper Countryman, Cooper Paceman.

Elring
2002 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Elring

P311-0AB1EA1    W0133-1665935  New

Qty:
$56.27
Elring Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • .65mm
Brand: Elring
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mini Cooper
Elring
2002 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Elring

P311-3CF4A46    W0133-1665936  New

Qty:
$67.63
Elring Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • + 0.3mm
Brand: Elring
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mini Cooper
Ajusa
2010 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ajusa

P311-1D8CB49    W0133-1855944  New

Qty:
$66.74
Ajusa Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • + 0.3mm
  • 1.20 mm
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Ajusa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Mini Cooper
Ajusa
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ajusa

P311-1D8CB49    W0133-1855944  New

Qty:
$66.74
Ajusa Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Optional (+ 0.3MM)
  • 1.20 mm
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Ajusa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mini Cooper Countryman
Ajusa
2012 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ajusa

P311-1D8CB49    W0133-1855944  New

Qty:
$66.74
Ajusa Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • + 0.3MM
  • 1.20 mm
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Ajusa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mini Cooper
Ajusa
2013 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ajusa

P311-1D8CB49    W0133-1855944  New

Qty:
$66.74
Ajusa Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 1.20mm Thick
  • 1.20 mm
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Ajusa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mini Cooper
Victor Reinz
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Victor Reinz

P311-26DA4E3    W0133-1821148  New

Qty:
$83.09
Victor Reinz Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 1.20mm (+.3)
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Victor Reinz
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mini Cooper Countryman
Victor Reinz
2015 Mini Cooper Countryman Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Victor Reinz

P311-26DA4E3    W0133-1821148  New

Qty:
$83.09
Victor Reinz Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 1.20mm Thick
  • + 0.3 mm
Brand: Victor Reinz
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Mini Cooper Countryman
Elring
2008 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Elring

P311-0F12974    W0133-1850339  New

Qty:
$43.26
Elring Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • .90mm
  • Standard
Brand: Elring
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Mini Cooper
Elring
2013 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Elring

P311-0F12974    W0133-1850339  New

Qty:
$43.26
Elring Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 0.90mm Thick
  • Standard
Brand: Elring
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mini Cooper
FelPro
2002 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L FelPro

P311-541D221    26382 PT  New

Qty:
$39.82
FelPro Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Head Gasket
  • PermaTorqueMLS® Head bolts not incl. Head bolt replacement recommended
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Meets Or Exceeds All Original Equipment Specifications
    • Feature 2: Application-specific Design Ensures A Perfect Fit
    • Feature 3: Robust Seal Contains Peak Combustion Pressures And Temperatures
    • Feature 4: Withstands Casting Motion Of Todays Automotive Engines
    • Feature 5: Validated For Fit, Form And Function
    • Feature 6: Unsurpassed Quality You Can Trust
  • Fel-Pro gaskets offers 100% vehicle sealing with application-specific materials to give you sealing solutions with the performance and durability professionals trust.
Brand: FelPro
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Mini Cooper L 1600 -
FelPro
2007 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L FelPro

P311-088FF58    26457 PT  New

Qty:
$57.01
FelPro Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Head Gasket
  • 1.20mm thick PermaTorqueMLS® Head bolts not incl. Head bolt replacement recommended
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Meets Or Exceeds All Original Equipment Specifications
    • Feature 2: Application-specific Design Ensures A Perfect Fit
    • Feature 3: Robust Seal Contains Peak Combustion Pressures And Temperatures
    • Feature 4: Withstands Casting Motion Of Todays Automotive Engines
    • Feature 5: Engineered And Manufactured For Aftermarket Repair Environment
    • Feature 6: Validated For Fit, Form And Function
  • Fel-Pro gaskets offers 100% vehicle sealing with application-specific materials to give you sealing solutions with the performance and durability professionals trust.
Brand: FelPro
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
2007 - Mini Cooper Turbocharged L 1598 - DOHC
FelPro
2007 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L FelPro

P311-20C9316    26454 PT  New

Qty:
$65.45
FelPro Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Head Gasket
  • .90mm thick PermaTorqueMLS® Head bolts not incl. Head bolt replacement recommended
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Meets Or Exceeds All Original Equipment Specifications
    • Feature 2: Application-specific Design Ensures A Perfect Fit
    • Feature 3: Robust Seal Contains Peak Combustion Pressures And Temperatures
    • Feature 4: Withstands Casting Motion Of Todays Automotive Engines
    • Feature 5: Engineered And Manufactured For Aftermarket Repair Environment
    • Feature 6: Validated For Fit, Form And Function
  • Fel-Pro gaskets offers 100% vehicle sealing with application-specific materials to give you sealing solutions with the performance and durability professionals trust.
Brand: FelPro
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
2007 - Mini Cooper Turbocharged L 1598 - DOHC
Victor Gaskets
2002 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-1D9B5C8    54439  New

Qty:
$61.80
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.95mm Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.95mm
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Package Quantity: 1
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation
2002 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated L 1600 - W10B16A
Victor Gaskets
2002 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-049CD5F    54438  New

Qty:
$57.42
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.65mm Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.65mm
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Package Quantity: 1
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation
2002 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated L 1600 - W10B16A
Victor Gaskets
2007 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-011D88D    54977  New

Qty:
$57.52
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.90mm Thickness Multi-Layered Steel .90mm Thick
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.90 Mm
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation
2007 - Mini Cooper L 1598 - N14B16A
Victor Gaskets
2007 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-4AB7EF3    54784  New

Qty:
$67.75
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 1.20mm Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: None
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation
2007 - Mini Cooper L 1598 - N14B16A
Victor Gaskets
2007 Mini Cooper Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-4EDC59E    54783  New

Qty:
$67.75
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.90mm Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: None
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.90mm
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation
2007 - Mini Cooper L 1598 - N12B16A

Latest Mini Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

temperature fluctuating '02 chevorlet venture mini van

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From claytoon on temperature fluctuating '02 chevorlet venture mini van

2002 chevorlet venture minivan with the 3.4l V6 180 000km. My 02 chevorlet venture mini van had the head gasket changed at 60 000km about three years ago. A couple of days ago the cab heat started fluctuating from time to time but the engine temp guage stayed where it should be. Last night while driving home the cab heat fluctuated again but this time the engine temp needle climbed very quickly to the red just as we pulled in the driveway. Could this be the thermostat , an air lock or a water pump or could this be the head gasket again?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have air in the system likely due to a leak. have the cooling system pressure tested to find the leak.

2001 6n2 polo tdi , Head Gasket Problem?

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From ShazPolo on 2001 6n2 polo tdi , Head Gasket Problem?

Hi there. I have a 2001 Volkswagen Polo Colour Concept 1.4 tdi 3 cylinder. It has done 106,000 miles. Right the issue with this car is that when I take it on a good run for example a 20-30 min long run on the motorway/ring roads, the coolant will near enough empty, so it's losing a lot of water. Now I can't see any leaks, but when I put my foot down the car chucks out black smoke, not sure if this is due to it being remapped or because of the headgasket. Also when I put the heaters on, there is a horrible smell that comes in to the car, as if someone burnt something in the oven. The oil looks fine. The coolant bottle is a bit dark at the bottom of it and no matter how hot the engine is when you open the coolant cap it doesn't chuck out water so it wouldn't burst open like most cars. The car doesn't get overheated, but loses water a lot. Please can you help me as I don't know where this water is going. How can I physically check the headgasket or check for a crack in the head of the engine? Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

You need to have the coolant system pressure tested. Some leaks won't show up until there is pressure in the system. If you have a coolant smell inside the vehicle the heater core is probably leaking.

Response From ShazPolo

I took the car to another garage today, the mechanic screwed the coolant cap off checked the water and the water looked clean, he said if it was head gasket this water wouldn't be clean, he also looked at the oil and the oil looked very clean too. he concluded by saying it could be the water pump but I'll check it for you properly tomorrow. Also I've realised today the car getting a bit steamed up from the inside and that smell still exists. The mechanic said the smell could be Air filter/pollen filter. But the steam? Heater matrix?

Response From Hammer Time

That guy is the janitor masquerading as a mechanic. Take it somewhere else.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hey - you need better help than you got. Steaming inside is almost always the "core" for the heater which is a mini radiator if the term isn't used by you.

The smell/odor about confirms it. Losing that much "water" better said coolant would almost always make a mess inside the car generally on passenger's side and not familiar with this car so couldn't say which side as it sounds right hand drive so far. So yes there's a pretty good chance it needs more than just the core. Real techs shouldn't have too much trouble diagnosing this but may not know exactly if head gasket is involved the total extent of that job till apart,

T

Response From ShazPolo

Hi fellas thanks for the reply. Yes that mechanic didn't seem too sure. I went to a couple of mechanics today, both said it doesn't seem to be head gasket, because theres no white smoke coming out of the exhaust, no milky oil, no oil in the expansion tank and the water isn't being lost around town, just on long runs on the motorways/highways . They both said it could boil down to the following things, The cap on the expansion tank, water pump, thermostat, heater core. Right another question, the radiator fan isn't kicking in, I replaced the fan switch, and the number 30 fuse on top of the battery, then it started to work, but now it isn't working again, I pulled off the switch adapter connected to the fan switch, connected a wire to both connection points on the adapter and the fan started to work only whilst I had the wire connected, maybe I need to buy another new fan switch? And when the fan isn't kicking in, could this be the reason that the Overheating light comes on when there is water loss? Sorry for doing your heads in guys, I just don't know a great deal about cars. Thanks. And Yes it is a right hand drive. P.S one of the mechanics today said the windows are getting steamed because of a slight leak in the heater matrix (core) but that doesn't explain the great amount of water loss

Response From Hammer Time

The fan motor is probably shot and drawing too much current.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Loss of coolant/water will cause overheating for any reason it leaks. Fan must work and your warning light/gauge could be confused if running low on coolant. I say "coolant" as engines are NOT made to run on real plain water even for vehicles that would be used in places that could never freeze there was a product sold called "coolant" just to protect engine metals but haven't even heard of it sold and wouldn't be practical for even US tropical areas or territories.

A heater core leak could leak externally to something hot like exhaust and burn off without much evidence and still make an odor. Some could leak at a hose connections and not be the "core" itself but drip into that housing (air box) with both loss of coolant and the odor and not be the core itself. Rare for exactly that.

Any reason an engine overheats things are stressed. Head gaskets and a list of things go wrong up to ruining an engine. Fan just might be drawing too much power as Hammer Time said if it blew new parts that made it work for a while. Just lack of fan could cause overheating and blow coolant to ground but you should see evidence or have warning light or gauge inside.

Leaks unseen only at longer use or higher speeds can be water-pumps or several vehicles still need fan even when air speed should be enough.

Don't worry about which words we call assorted parts. The harder part for a vehicle not sold to where most techs here are is we wouldn't know of so many very common problems with a certain make or model - the basic ideas of how things work are still there. The tests and observations for head gasket are fair so far but can take more intense diagnosing to be absolutely certain,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Or the steam from the leaking heater core is shorting out the fan resistor.

Response From ShazPolo

Hi, took the car on the motorway today, it lost all its water within 30-40 mins, then the temperature light came on, although the temperature never went above 90. I put the heaters on warm and kept my window open until the next service station, I manually connected the fan to the battery, and topped up the water again. This time all the coolant was lost within 20 minutes . I really don't know where the coolant is going so quick. I pulled over and didn't see any leaks anywhere. When I drive around the city, I can drive for ages and ages, and the car won't lose coolant, even driving it fast, it doesn't lose coolant. But as soon as I hit the motorway/highway and go at high speeds for long periods of time, it loses water and the temperature light comes on. Could it be water pump? Head Gasket? A crack in the head?

Response From Hammer Time

I put the heaters on warm and kept my window open until the next service station,

That's the fastest way I know to be buying a new engine. I see it every day.

You need to have the car towed to a repair shop and have them pressure test the system to find the leak and pray you haven't already ruined the motor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Shaz - losing water that fast if it wasn't a head gasket it will be and probably lots more at HT said maybe the whole engine is toast and still need to fix why it was leaking in the first place,


T

Response From Discretesignals


Also I've realised today the car getting a bit steamed up from the inside and that smell still exists. The mechanic said the smell could be Air filter/pollen filter. But the steam? Heater matrix?

Those are symptoms of a leaking heater core. How comes someone can't figure that out? It probably only pisses out when the engine is running.

Response From ShazPolo

Right fellas. An update. I stuck a cloth to the Coolant Bottle (expansion tank), went on a long journey, got to my destination and checked the cloth, the cloth was soaked, i squeezed the cloth and a lot of water dripped out. So I am going to change the coolant bottle.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Saz - Let's start over with this. The "recovery" bottle/tank/THINGY should have "coolant" in it and markings for "cold" and "hot" (meaning warmed up) levels so would soak a cloth if this was properly filled in anything that uses that system which is EVERYTHING I can think of since the 1960s about.

Plain water is not good even if it is using lots at least a mild mix - add food coloring if need be - like just a drop or two but most are colored either green or orange/pink, some blue out there.

Back: It the tank leaks which isn't unheard of then liquid would come out any may be part way up where it leaks then when cooled off or after cycling level normally would go empty and voila you would have a wet cloth - which if a test should be UNABLE to clog the return hole to usually a hose back to radiator.

If, If, If that is what is happening AND coolant is coming out at a certain level more so with full operating temp whilst (did that for you) driving it could make a smell inside car and a chance leave little evidence.

It would leak just sitting there cold if overfilled for a test as well near certainly. THEY DO CRACK especially at fasteners that hold them or just bad luck and have to go for new. Patching them if so from outside either wont last or wont work at all. If that tank is also pressurized as in the cap is the acting radiator cap no patch will last for poop.

This is possible for the situation but unusual you wouldn't see it or evidence. If so it still could and will run engine short of coolant, overheat sooner or later and all the possible damage from overheating possible,

T

Response From Discretesignals



Also I've realised today the car getting a bit steamed up from the inside and that smell still exists. The mechanic said the smell could be Air filter/pollen filter. But the steam? Heater matrix?

This is a symptom of a bad heater core. I don't understand why it can't be determined if it is leaking or not.


If that is a surge tank that is cracked, why haven't you seen coolant on the ground? When is someone going to pressure check this coolant system and determine where the coolant is going??????

You keep driving it like that and your going to need an engine. If there is a leak, the system can't pressurize and lower the boiling point of the coolant.

gas in coolant

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on gas in coolant

Hello,
I am having mechanical issues with my 02 mini. I recently took my car to the dealer to have routine service performed and to have an over heating issue looked into. The car over heated one hot afternoon, but quickly cooled back down after shutting it off and hasn't given me any trouble since. Regardless, the mechanic informed me that they had detected gas in the coolant by some diagnostic means and that they think the head, gasket or cylinder may have a crack in it. A repair at the tune of $4700. When the car first over heated - which I shut down immediately as soon as the light came on -- I assumed that the thermostat may have stuck for a moment because of the erratic way the temperature gage reacted. The car is running fine still and at normal operating temperature..

Without having the benefit to diagnosis the car, does this sound like the cause and do i really need to have the head rebuilt. Seems hard to believe when it is running fine.

Best -Regards -Scott

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

The first thing I would do is get a second opinion from another dealer/repair shop.
You didn't mention whether or not you could smell fuel in the coolant (which you should be able to smell I would think).
Fuel in the coolant happens with cracked block, or a bad intake manifold gasket.
In the case of a cracked block you may also notice oil in the coolant which can appear as thick sludge.

I guess what I'm saying basically is....
get a second opinion from someone else and be sure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's pretty hard for gosoline to get into coolant. They may have detected exhaust gas which could be a gasket or crack in some area. $4700 is insane -- get another opinion, T

GM 3400 misfires

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Guest on GM 3400 misfires

I have a 98 Olds mini van with the trusty 3400 V6. The van just turned 180K but the motor has only 60K. I just replaced the head gasket 2500 miles ago, drove it 500+ miles over Memorial Day weekend, and today it stated acting up. It spits, sputters, jerks and then dies when driving down the road. It will start up again and idle but if I give it gas it misfires and dies. Sat there and scratched my head a few minutes and it started up and I drove home with no problem. Went out later and drove it, same thing. This time I took my fuel pressure gauge and OBD II code scanner. Fuel pressure is never under 40 psi and no codes to be scanned. I can't believe a computer controlled engine can run this bad and not throw a code. It reminds my of how my Bonneville ran when the crank sensor was bad but that spit out a code right away. Any suggestions?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

g huns; First, what type of a scanner are you using? Is it just a code puller? This vehicle has misfire detection and should be storing at least a misfire code and setting a check engine light if it's doing what it 'sounds like' from here. Do you have any valve train noise? Any overheating?
Fuel pressure spec is 41-47psi. If you are at 40psi, that's not enough. 40 is enough for it to 'run', but not enough to handle much of a demand. Just for grins, check/replace the fuel filter and retest.
Most parts stores will retrieved trouble codes for free. Post any codes you get and we can go from there.

Response From Guest

I have an OBDII scanner. It scans for regular code as well as misfires etc. I got none out of it. The service engine light has not come on at all.

Response From Guest

Just checked fuel pressure again. 38 psi at idle 36 under load. Unhooked the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and it jumps to 47 psi. Is this normal?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes; With the pressure regulator unplugged, it goes full rich. Your fuel pressure specs are too low.

2000 Dodge Ram still overheats

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Christian9653 on 2000 Dodge Ram still overheats

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD, 5.9L with 146k miles. Radiator cracked and started to overheat for less than 2 min. (long enough to get it off the interstate. So I replaced radiator, water pump, hoses, (except heater hoses), thermostat. Changed oil, new plugs, distributor cap. (wires next).

Still overheats.

Water is running out of overflow when running. Heater only gets warm when you step on gas. Also, you can hear water sucking sound under dashboard. When I turn the heater on the AC runs too now. No obvious leaks except from overflow. Thought I had something but then saw it was condensation from the AC (which was supposed to be off)

Response From nickwarner

likely you have an air pocket in the cooling system still. The last of heat in the cab is a big indicator. I use a Lisle Spill-Free funnel that most any parts house can sell you for pretty cheap. Comes with adapters for many types of caps. It allows room for the coolant to surge up without making a big mess. Run the engine through a few cycles of thermostat opening and closing with the funnel on in place of the cap. This way the system doesn't pressurize. Keep the heater control on hot the whole time. You'll see the air pockets working out in the funnel, and be able to feel how much heat you're getting in the cab. As to the AC issue, check for power at the AC clutch. If present you have a separate electrical short that can be taken care of for now by pulling the fuse for the AC. If the AC continues to run without electrical power, you have a locked up clutch and it shouldn't be driven until replaced as it will build up a tremendous overload of pressure when it isn't able to cycle off and will cause you such costly damage that the repair bill will make a wrecker bill look like a deal of a lifetime. Post back and let us know what you find.

Response From Christian9653

So what I have done so far today is get some flush and am flushing out the system. I figured it couldn't hurt and maybe I had some blockage. I'll fill it back up and let you guys know. Thanks a bunch. So far so good.

Response From Christian9653

Using just straight water I have attempted to refill the coolant system. After about 2.5 gallons it's bubbling and overflowing. When it goes down I add more water. It should be a 5 gallon capacity. I have let overflow and attempted to place 7 gallons of water. Bubbles keep coming up like someone is blowing with a straw in the water. No engine smoke, no water in the oil,(AC shut off BTW ok). Idles a tiny bit rough but runs very smooth. Is this my head gasket?

Response From Christian9653

Well drove it ,around the block and the temperature varies quite a bit. Water is blowing out of the overflow. Idle is rougher and the engine light came on with a po300,po301, and po302 reported on the ODB. All the results are pointing to a head gasket. Next question...

I know their are additives to try and seal the gasket. Should I even try that? Or am I just putting on the wrong band aid which will cause me more problems?

Response From Christian9653

New Development! Water on the floorboard on the passenger side. That means Heat core(coil) has gone bad I believe. At least I know what to try and fix.

Response From Christian9653

Updates and issues:

Hard to start. Once it did a little blue smoke. Exhaust "feels" moist but it's hard to tell. Still idles rough.

Put a radiator pressure gauge on it and got a 17lbs. reading. While idling it started to run warm. Shut it off pressure dropped slowly down to 14lbs.

The top hose was cold. Lower hose had pressure and was warm.

Pulled the #1,#2,#4,#6 spark plugs. All had a white residue. No moisture.

Next I am going to put a 2nd new thermostat in it tomorrow and run a compression test on each cylinder.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You do a pressure test with engine off as with certain head gasket and or intake gasket failures you would blow radiator and heater cores with too much pressure if allowed.

Your new plugs already show flaws so I'd proceed to check for blown head gasket(s) and hope that's all that's damaged,

T

Response From Christian9653

OK, took out the thermostat. Checked it and it was sticking. Put in another one. By-passed the heater core, flushed the system again and the temp is now fine. New plug wires. No codes. Did another pressure test on the radiator cap. While running pressure got up to 28lbs. at idle. As I released the pressure you could smell fresh gas coming through the cap. So, in the morning I am going to do a compression check on the cylinders. I believe at this point the intake manifold gasket is leaking. Will know more tomorrow. I have all the gaskets so this weekend I am planning on changing the Head gaskets and manifold gaskets. Hopefully the compression test will tell me more. Still no water in the oil or oil in the water. No smoke. Just bubbles in the overflow of the radiator.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How in the heck are you using a pressure tester? You would pump one up to see if it would hold or where it would leak not exceeding the systems rating which is probably about 16 psi. You DON'T leave it on with engine running and wait for pressure to built up or allow it over the limit.

If testing with engine running and a pressure tester you would be ready to quit and release pressure if it built up from zero with engine running right away instead of slow heat expansion. If fast that way it's near sure combustion gasses are entering the cooling system.


If head gasket(s) are determined bad do send out the heads to a machine shop for inspection and or service as they may be warped beyond machine work limits or cracked,

T

Response From Christian9653

Here are the results (and they are not good)

Right bank #1=110, #3=100, #5=125, #7=95

Left bank #2=120, #4=135, #6= 115, #8=105

These numbers are all over the place. I don't know what they should be, but I do know that isn't right. I would think that each bank would be the same and that both banks should be within 10.

I did a pressure test on the radiator when the engine was cold and could not find any leakage, sounds of leakage or signs of fluids anywhere. That's why I tried it with the engine at idle.

I am a novice at this fellows. That said, I am doing what I can to get the diagnostics the best I can. I do have some help to pull the top part of the engine off. Also, I have found a machine shop to check the heads when I do.

I have to try and fix this myself. I just don't have the funds at this time to pay a shop to do it all.

I want to thank everyone, especially Tom for all the great advice and help.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Please comment on these numbers and what they might mean. Any tips on pulling this thing apart and putting it back together will also be taken in.

I will check other threads as well.

The saga continues,

Thanks again,

Chris

Response From Sidom

Just skimmed thru this thread and is sounds like you're on the right track.....

I'll just add one quick suggestion. If it was mentioned & I missed it, I apologize....

When running a compression test the throttle needs to be held wide open, compression is very dependent on air volume. Also it would be a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay, start the engine and let it die. This way the cyl walls aren't getting washed out with gas. Holding the pedal @ wide open should clearflood it & kill the injectors but this way you know for sure, also have all the plugs out at the same time.

(ok that was 3 but I never claimed I could count)

Response From Christian9653

I went ahead and did another compression test with the good advice I have been given and the numbers came out a little better but not what I would like.

Right bank #1=135, #3=115, #5=135, #7=115

Left bank #2=100, #4=145, #6=130, #8=125

I did get misfire codes 302 and 306 this time. Also after idle, turn off and starting back up was a hard start. (This baby has always started at a quick turn of the key)

Radiator overflow still bubbles steady. But the truck runs smooth and does not over heat. I went to 2 different auto parts stores and they did not have any test strips. So I'll keep looking.

Sounds like with all the testing it's time for intake and head gaskets. I'm going to start on tearing it down Friday.

Any tips and opinions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

My fingers just refuse to type that I'm sure of anything but the constant bubbles in radiator especially if right away is a damning clue for the gaskets.

Advice. Work as clean as you can. # your parts to go to the same spot they came from - use a cardboard box with holes or whatever. Don't let junk get where it doesn't belong! Paper towels can prevent losing a bolt or washer down the wrong hole!

Be gentle but clean gasket surfaces well. Be VERY careful of alloys as a good sharp gasket scraper can dig into that metal. Use the solvents for gasket removal can help but not a total solution if you have a nasty one - they can still be work.

Short of torches and you can't use those on everything I find PB (Power Blaster) as good of a penetrating oil as there is for sticky or corroded parts. Let it sit and try not to break any studs or bolts. Rushing doesn't pay off,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Yes - those #s are all over the place. Do you recall what plugs on the three lowest looked like in comparison to the highest since they are all new? Test is generally done with warm engine when possible, all plugs out, throttle held at least part open, written observations which you did, and again with just a squirt of oil to see if and how much different that makes. With (just a small squirt) pressures would all go up. You count the fourth compression stroke # not the first - if memory (go easy now) serves me.

You would like to see all within about 10% of each other which that isn't. For now it's inconclusive to me as the engine runs and those #s are low enough to cause combustion problems.

Back: When pressure testing cooling system you mentioned you could smell gas (gasoline - right?) when you relieved the pressure. Can't say exactly what style pressure testers do to relieve pressure but it radiator was full, and pressure cap is on radiator it would have gushed just liquid out or there was abundant gaseous (non liquid) in the cooling system. It could hold even the 28lbs (never allow that high on a cooling system again please) as that's diddle low pressure compared to combustion pressures of a running engine. Some head gasket failures will not leak out to ground or burn coolant or mess up the oil but can put combustion pressure into cooling system which behaves like plain air for cooling purposes and the pressure cap would constantly be venting off any pressure over its rating.

Side notes: Heat rises and so does air/vapor in a liquid. Air doesn't cool a "water cooled" engine nor throws heat in a heater which is really just a mini radiator. It's "caloric" value (air) isn't much compared to coolant/water. DON'T TRY THIS BUT NOTICE THAT A HOT SHOWER FOR EXAMPLE CAN BE 110F DEGREES. 110F AIR IS HOT BUT YOU CAN RUN THRU IT. AN OVEN CAN BE WAY UP THERE WHEN YOU REACH IN 200-300 OR MORE AND YOU DON'T GET BURNED IF QUICK. WATER AT 140F FEELS AND CAN BE SCALDING NEVER MIND ENGINE COOLANT TEMPS NORMALLY NEAR 200ISH! This is about the caloric ability of heat exchange. Vapor is slight and liquid greater.

What I mean to express is that the heads are high on engine and would be hotter than the oil pan for instance. The combustion is glowing hot - rough guess 6-8 hundred degrees! More perhaps. I really don't know what Chrysler did for heads on this but many started using alloys like aluminum which has a lower caloric value than cast iron and expansion and contraction rates are different which is a stress for gaskets in normal conditions and a real problem with overheats.

All this adds up to high likelihood of failed head gasket(s) but you do want to be sure as it's a big job. Heads or even block (less likely but possible) can crack or warp which is why we suggest sending heads out and you still would inspect block as best you can. Ask machine shop for their ideas on verifying block trueness and lack of cracks.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You can get test strips or a kit to test for combustion gasses in the vapor of cooling system. Ask a real parts store what they have available. Again - it would stink to be wrong with the diagnosis so use all means to verify it before digging in. This is mostly labor intensive but with new oil, coolant, some hoses maybe or all, it can add up parts too.

Check, check, check and get pro advice if needed would be $ well spent. You really can't know exact condition of heads till off but know as much as possible while intact. Don't know my Mopars that well so intake manifold could be and should be checked too if you determine this is going to get the full gasket job,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That couple extra miles on the Interstate was pretty costly IMO. System needs be filled. Run a few minutes till level drops when thermostat opens if it will and level will drop when air is let out to radiator. Next fill it should become more stable but will still have air to purge out over a few warm up/ cool down cycles.

Seems it got so hot it probably did blow head/intake gaskets and now you are getting combustion gasses in cooling system. A/C staying on AND making condensate if so when heat and only heat requested isn't right. Are you sure it isn't set to "mix" of heat and defrost? If it was A/C would cycle but not stay on. That's now a separate problem.


Water on floor. Yes - that suggests a heater core leaking or necks are broken/cracked where hoses go thru firewall. Necks or the core itself would still need the core but I doubt that will be the fix for this.

That overheat probably caused wild damage along with tossing parts at it that shouldn't have had a thing to do with a crack in radiator tank to begin with.

Pressure test the system. Check for combustion gasses in radiator and or recovery tank. I think it's going to need head and intake gaskets, the heater core probably is leaking.

It's an open book now. In refilling the thermostat if normal would lock air in the engine side until warm (not piping hot) enough to open. Upper hose would feel warmth as an indication (caution as it could be VERY hot) then shut it down. Fill as needed when COOL and repeat. Constant or if bubbles seen right away the gaskets are high on the list.

Got a lot of work and testing to do,

T

Response From alienshadow

I am no mechanic and my comment may get deleted.. But are you sure the T-Stat isnt a bad one? I know on my chevy I had over heat issues when all was said and done it was a bad brand new T-Stat.. Guy told me 1 in 5 are bad.. Just trying to help hope you get it fixed and I sure hope its not the head gasket..