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Victor Reinz
2014 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Victor Reinz

P311-0632BDE    W0133-1843110  New

Qty:
$45.66
Victor Reinz Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Victor Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Lincoln Navigator
Victor Gaskets
1981 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.0L Victor Gaskets

P311-5DB8332    3428  New

D7ZZ 6051-B , E5ZZ 6051-B , 9333 PT-1 , C9OE 6051-G , E6ZZ 6051-A , D7OZ 6051-C , 8548 PT-2 , F0ZZ 6051-A , D7OZ 6051-D , C9OZ 6051-A , E5ZE 6051-B5A , HG32840 , C9OE 6051-F , D7AE 6051-BA , D7DE 6051-AA , D5UZ 6051-A , E5AZ 6051-A , E5ZZ 6051-A , D5UE 6051-AA , HG31020

Qty:
$16.67
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Composite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Bore Diameter (in): 4.120 Inches
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Composite
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: Compressed Operating Thickness .046-.051 Inches
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Victor Gaskets
2008 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 8 Cyl 4.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-2857C77    54232  New

4C2Z 6051-AA , 9790 PT-2

Qty:
$52.55
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Standard Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Lincoln Town Car V Right V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Victor Gaskets
2008 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 8 Cyl 4.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-16B66A4    54457  New

9790 PT-2 , HG34065 , 4C2Z 6051-AA

Qty:
$53.71
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.010in Thicker Head Gasket Multi-Layered Steel Original Equipment Design
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.010in
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Lincoln Town Car V Right V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Victor Gaskets
2008 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 8 Cyl 4.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-5E4CA76    54233  New

HG34070 , 9792 PT-2 , 4C2Z 6051-BA

Qty:
$52.55
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Standard Thickness Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Lincoln Town Car V Left V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Victor Gaskets
2008 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 8 Cyl 4.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-3C74357    54458  New

HG34070 , 4C2Z 6051-BA , XR855904 , 9792 PT-2

Qty:
$53.71
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • 0.010in Thicker Head Gasket Multi-Layered Steel Original Equipment Design
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: 0.010in
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Lincoln Town Car V Left V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Victor Gaskets
1981 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.0L Victor Gaskets

P311-55E3DC5    3428SG  New

1011-1 , HG32841

Qty:
$45.36
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Compressed Thickness .045 To.050 In
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Victor Gaskets
1994 Lincoln Continental Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.8L Victor Gaskets

P311-1C55D3B    5786  New

HG33000 , 9560 PT , E8DE 6051-A1A , FODZ 6051-A , E8DZ 6051-A , E8DE 6051-A6A , F5PE 6051-AA

Qty:
$16.76
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Lincoln Continental 4 V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Victor Gaskets
2014 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 8 Cyl 5.4L Victor Gaskets

P311-3B401F0    54400  New

26307 PT , 3L3Z-6051-HA , 7L3E-6051-AA , 7L3Z-6051-A

Qty:
$31.84
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Multi-Layered Steel Black Diamond Coated Head Gasket
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Lincoln Navigator 5 Right V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
Victor Gaskets
2014 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 8 Cyl 5.4L Victor Gaskets

P311-417BCB3    54401  New

7L3Z 6051-B , 3L3Z 6051-HALH , 7L3E 6083-AA , 26306 PT

Qty:
$31.84
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Multi-Layered Steel Black Diamond Coated Head Gasket
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Lincoln Navigator 5 Left V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -

Latest Lincoln Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

heating problems

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From COREY on heating problems

I have a lincoln ls. I am not getting heat and it overheats. I had the thermostat replaced can you give me an idea what is wrong

Response From Sidom

You are going to want to find the cause of the overheating problem, this may be tied into the other problems you mentioned...

Personally going off what you've said I would probably make sure there isn't a problem with the head gaskets........

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You can't let these or most cars overheat - not once! This smacks of head gasket issues and the boiling coolant won't thow heat nor being low on coolant. Hot air or exhaust gasses in cooling system doesn't work and first noted is lack of heat with either.............

1994 Lincoln Continental abs sensor

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 1994 Lincoln Continental abs sensor

I just recently got my car's exhaust and head gaskets fixed, and Now when i got the car back my speedometer reads 0mph at any speed and the Anti-lock brake light stays on. Does anyone know what this could be caused from? I read somewhere that it is my abs sensor that needs to be replaced. Is this the problem or is it something more serious? Also how much do you think this will cost to be fixed, and is it something that could be done without going to a mechanic if I know someone that knows alot about cars? Thanks a bunch

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Might just be the VSS sensor unplugged or damaged at connection a bit. This should be effecting the way it runs I would think??

Not certain if this is also related to ABS as well. Car may know it's moving partially and ABS light just is confused - typically with ABS light on you default to regular braking. There may be (probably) a code set to help isolate just what sensor is giving trouble.

Why aren't you going back to where it was fixed?

T

1998 Buick humming noise

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From PyroDragon89 on 1998 Buick humming noise

1998 Buick Century Custom, V.6 3.1 liters, 132000 miles

My 1998 Buick Century Custom has a weird humming noise almost as if air was leaking out of the tires along with a electrical sound. Its not the tires it stops when car is turned off. Also its coming from under the rear part of the car. Anyone know what this could be? It just recently started to make this noise as well.

Response From Hammer Time

If you can hear it with the car running but not moving, then it's probably the fuel pump getting noisy. It's inside the fuel tank.

Response From PyroDragon89

Does that mean it has to be replaced?

Response From Hammer Time

It's usually a warning that failure is imminent but i had one do that for 2 years before failing. That doesn't mean yours will though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What the ever loving hell do people think cars will last? 132K it's done so throw UPS cars out and cut your losses. Your call,

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

132K is half it's life these days. I regularly see cars pushing 300K and still running good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Bullshit - everything is crap out there not like American Iron of yesteryear. One head gasket job with an old or rusted car exceeedds it's value. Drive an '89 (last decent year) Lincoln. Why the heck when something was done right is there some new rule to change it?!

Can get 26 MPG with six dead engineers in the trunk no problem!

What happened out there?

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Let me know when your 89 hits 300K.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

They can do that like nothing but here rust out first if you use them

Tom

Response From Discretesignals

Why the heck when something was done right is there some new rule to change it?!

You can blame the government for that. Stricter emissions and higher fuel mileage requirements. The evolution of the automobile to survive in it's pre-planned environment.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Congress and Regress are close in spelling!

Tom

Response From zmame

Yeh my old 97 chev truck as 420,000 km (260975 miles).. im convinced it gets better and better on fuel because all the sheet metal i've lost.

No more rockers, cab corner, rear bumper, some of the tailgate and I lost the spare tire about 4 years ago lol..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Never mind this thead - great to see you here!

Tom

Response From zmame

fair enough lol.. good to hear from you again Tom hope all is well on your side.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Still kicking so means I'm alive or something?

Things are well in Massatwoshits but didn't watch local news for a couple days so no telling who raped someone or what??

Don't you just love evening news that says "Good Evening" then proceeds to tell you why it isn't??!!

We got to deal with this somehow??

Tom

Trying to diagnose engine whine and steering groan

Showing 2 out of 30 Posts | Show 28 Hidden Posts
Question From MyUserName on Trying to diagnose engine whine and steering groan

Hello, everyone, and thanks for the help! I only just got my first car and am trying to learn how to maintain/repair it myself, so please bear with me as my knowledge base is extremely limited (though I am actively changing that!).

I have a 1994 Lincoln Towncar, 178K miles. I got it (for free) about 1500 miles ago, and everything, aside from having to change a tire and some rust removal, was great. A few weeks ago, I noticed two sounds start up, though I can't say for sure whether they started at the same time or not. One is a whining from the engine. This happens as soon as I turn the car on, may or may not get better as the car warms up, and changes in tone (or "speed") when I press the gas. The second sound is a groaning that comes when I turn the steering wheel. I wasn't paying enough attention to know whether the steering is harder to turn or not, but the car is totally drivable.

So I thought the whining might be a fan belt, but a friend at work mentioned that maybe I'm low on power steering fluid. I had noticed that there was some fluid in my parking space, but I assumed that was an oil leak because the guy who gave me the car told me that I have to add oil every thousand miles or so (before I saw the leak I had assumed that oil was burning off, not leaking). Anyway, what do you all think? I will check the power steering fluid tonight, but is there anything else I should look for? Any other ideas? Is there a way to check what kind of fluid is leaking? If it is leaking power steering fluid, is that a problem, or do I just need to refill regularly? Also, if the power steering fluid is full, might the problem still be power steering related?

Thanks so much!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

Can I guess you don't want to spend tons on this car?

First thing is to check and make it a routine to check all fluid levels. For now you probably do have a PS leak and perhaps at the shaft at the pitman arm is somewhat common. I've solved several for years with a product called Trans-X which is a trans and PS fluid "snake oil" that works! What it can do if that's the problem is slowly soften the seal that must control high PS fluid pressures and for the most part sealer stuff is a bad idea but you probably will see a drip or two from the bottom on the PS gearbox at the bottom output shaft. Hoses or other things must be fixed.

If you try that product just use a little (2oz or so at a time) and top up with approved regular PS fluid or ATF as needed. It won't work right away - It can take a few rounds so watch it carefully. If it was so strong to swell rubber products it would trash things and so far that one hasn't hurt anything even if it didn't solve a problem for many cars in my care.

The serpentine belt can make lots of noise by itself. Look at it. If it looks free of cracks and wear just grease the belt with silcone grease on the groved side - just a bit with a tiny flux brush and that can shut them up for quite a while. If you replace the belt get a quality one and count the # of grooves and peaks (6 or 7) as I recall as in that vintage they did sneak in a different one and if it doesn't match it will last a whopping 2 miles!

This is actually a pretty good starter car. Many things aren't so difficult to take care of yourself and despite it looking like it should be a total gas hog you'll probably be surprised that it's pretty good if you just drive gently.

It's enough miles but these can do lots more if they haven't been abused too bad. They are the pick of livery services for being fairly trouble free and tons of room and take high mileage better than average IMO.

If it seems like an old fart's car to you - relax - it is! Just wear sunglasses and enjoy the ride!

T

Response From MyUserName

Tom,

Thanks for the detailed response. Actually, I am a huge fan of this car. I generally drove (rented or borrowed) smaller cars up until now, and always enjoyed the zippiness, but I was a convert as soon as I drove this one. I feel like I'm driving around in my apartment, and, while you have to use some pressure on the brakes, the gas and steering are a light touch. And, yeah, I seem to get remarkably good gas mileage, especially when I set cruise control on the highway. And you're right that I don't want to spend too much money on it (I probably could buy a similar one for a few thousand, so expensive repairs don't make much sense), but I'm willing to put in as much time and effort as needed. I figure this is a good way to both keep the car running as long as possible and become as adept at regular maintenance (and maybe even basic repair) as I can. Even if it doesn't help with this car, I'm sure it'll save me a bundle down the road.

So, just so I understand, you suspect that it's most likely the power steering fluid. I will check it tonight and refill it if necessary (does it matter what kind of fluid I buy?). If it is such a leak, you recommend trans-x as a possible method of stopping the leak. Is there any downside to using this product? Can it hurt, or will it simply not help if it's inappropriate for the problem? Is there a way for me to check if the leak is from a hose or something that must be replaced, or something that can be fixed with trans-x?

As for the belt, someone had told me that vaseline works as well as silicone grease, but if grease is better, I'll go out and buy some (or is there something else I might have I might be able to use)?

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

PS fluid just kept full is fine - you can use Dextron/Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for PS in many vehicles. The trans-x may solve the leak which is why I suggested that. May be hard to find but keep looking and keep the PS filled to prevent damage to the system at least.

The Vaseline is a petroleum product and will work but it's not rubber friendly and really doesn't matter too much with an automotive belt. Silicone is expen$ive but a tube lasts forever and a great grease that doesn't hurt rubber and doesn't wash off with water or even soap and water very well. Used for electrical things and for lubing brake parts and also called "dielectic" grease.

_____________________
About these cars: I'm a Lincoln freakazoid! Others here would know these cars well too. People think you are a liar when you tell them you really saw 27 MPG with these cars! They really can! Just looked at a new little peice of crap car that boasts 28 HWY and the thing would fit in the trunk of this!

With minimal tools you can do lots of your own things on this car. I own three older than yours right now and worked for a limo company/sedan service that wailed miles on them and they took it well.

Common problems are well known and most fairly easy. Bet your front brakes rattle over a bumpy road! (caliper bushings) - if it has a trunk pull down motor let's defeat that - I'll explain how if so as if it breaks it's a pest to do then. Stupid little device and who knows why they bother with that?

It has grease fittings! Good idea to get a grease gun and do that yourself. Change the grease fittings on inner tie rod ends so you don't have to fight with getting at those.

Lube all the locks and hinges you can find. Save a lot of trouble. That goes for any car. WD-40 first, then spray white lithium grease and you'll never have those break on you.

Let us know how far and much you want to do for yourself on this car. I can spend your money and send you out for a bunch of things you should have to fix things in this and any car really,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DID I SAY I WAS A LINCOLN FREAK! T

Response From MyUserName

Tom,

You're just the guy I'm looking for, and your help is really appreciated. Like I said, time is more easily available than money, so I'm not looking to spend a lot, but I'll put in the time. Basically, my father-in-law is a lincoln freak also, and apparently I'll be getting his hand-me-downs, so what I learn now will help all along. Plus, I really do love this car, so if I can extend the life a year or two, it's worth it to me.

So I will check the fluids tonight and get back to you on that. I don't have a trunk pull down motor, so that's not a problem. Other than rust (I spend a day sanding rust, applying novarox, and then painting over, so it really looks good), the two minor problems I've encountered are that the power windows and locks are kind of falling apart (the windows go down and up at different speeds depending on the day), there is occassionally a "rumble" from the back when I'm driving (could this be the caliper brushings?) which only started after I got my tires rotated (my wife thinks these are just times we go over rough patches, I'm not so sure), and just two days ago it started to sound like there was wind coming into to the car from somewhere. (Not complaining, just listing).

Other than that, I figure whatever I can do to keep the car running, I'll do. So what do you suggest? After I check the fluids, I'll go to a store and get whatever fluids I need, sounds like WD-40 (where do I spray), and maybe a basic tool kit. Anything else? I'm game. Thanks so much!

Eric

Response From MyUserName

Oh, and what are grease fittings (I'm a novice!)?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The steering joints have grease fittings. They look like nipples and if the parts that have them are good now and you keep them greased they last forever. There may be some new parts that have fittings where some originals didn't. For now just make sure a place will really grease them at regular oil change intervals. ASK how many there are and when you/ if you want to do this you'll need a good grease gun and they aren't always easy to find. Later on that.

Noise from brake bushings or disc pad anti-rattle parts will shut up when brakes are applied which tells you they are at fault. The exhaust system might be rubbing or something and that could be what you hear now. I know it sounds like you are getting personal with the thing but wiggle it's tailpipe and shake it around and see if a noise shows up. Hangers and things may need attention. I'm not sure what 94 did for rear shocks?? If the air bag things check on their condition. If regular shocks with coil springs that you can see the shock rubber bushings may be worn or loose at top of back ones. Get that done if so as they are a pain in the a$$ to get at and you probably don't want to go crazy buying tons of tools for one time things.

Hinges etc. Open each door and watch where they are hinged and pivot. They only are lubed when new most of the time and many speedy oil change places couldn't have time in the 10 minute allowance to do all that. Look where the doors latch to the post on the car and spray the WD-40 up, in and all around those too.

Warning if you intend to buy some tools: Watch out for metric socket and wrench sets that DON'T include 16mm and 18mm - they are still sold everywhere and you will need those! Let me know your intentions about that - I could save you some headaches and $$.

Do you have close by Sears, Wal-Mart, Wholesale Clubs, and the salvage stores, chain parts stores or what?

Ask away and we/I'll try,

T

Response From MyUserName

First off, I'm glad I started a thread with such an awesome sidebar. :-)

Secondly, I bought and added PS fluid (the resevoir was entirely empty). The sounds immediately got better (by about 70%), but definitely didn't go away entirely. The groaning of the steering wheel is mostly gone, and the "singing" of the engine seems to come and go. There is a constant low-volume whine. I'm thinking that maybe it just takes time for the fluid to coat all the bearings and parts, and get any air out, and these will go away. Am I right, or should all the sounds have gone away right away?

Secondly, a new minor issue seems to have arisen. For some reason, I am having trouble closing the hood. The hood latch works fine, but when I press down to close the hood tight, it seems a little off (like it's closed, but not perfectly) and yesterday the hood popped open while I was driving (though the hood latch caught it so I could pull over safely, thankfully). I've learned how to tell if the hood is closed properly or not, but this problem seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I see you are surviving this thread which will soon go to page two but stay with it.

1. Expect to replace the PS pump on this - a can do from junkyard. They don't tolerate being low on fluid for long and you've mentioned it for over a day and that's too long! Get that Trans-X - it may help but I doubt it with the noise when full now.

2. The hood latch should be lubed with the WD-40 you should have by now. Those hoods are lightweight and the latches are strong so you have to about throw the hood down on them to latch well. If you just push down hard you can dent/damage the hood - that's a common problem. It can be adjusted to latch securely - I think just 10mm bolts are used. MAKE SURE THE SECONDARY HOOK IS LUBED FREE OR USE A STRING OR SOMETHING TO PREVENT THE HOOD FROM REALLY OPENING WHILE UNDERWAY!! No joking there!

The PS is probably the only noise and not some other problem. Keep that filled as it will buy time. Do look for the leak and report what you find. I expect you'll find as said earlier that the shaft/seal coming out of the bottom of the gearbox is the problem.

You said you were new to car maintenance so I want you to use all caution when it comes to jacking up a car - any car! The jack that comes with cars is really just a roadside emergency jack and if you are hoisting cars you should prioritise getting a decent jack and safety stands. Only jack up on level, secure surface - cement is great - any else, even asphalt is not good. If in doubt about this get help and always minimize any time you are under a car. NO JOKING ABOUT THAT!!

T

Response From MyUserName

Tom, thanks. So, to summarize, being so low on PS fluid probably damaged the PS pump? How much should a new PS pump cause? Should I wait a few days to see if the sound gets better, or just assume it needs to be done and go to a mechanic? I did buy something like trans-x (they didn't have it exactly in the local garage, but they had a lucas-brand similar product), and it's in there. Should I wait and see if the leak stops from , or just go get it fixed? I had heard that it may take a little time to get all the air out of the pumps.

Also, I don't think I'm comfortable getting under a car at this point (I think a healthy fear of having a car drop on me is not unreasonable), so should it cost a bundle to have a mechanic locate the leak and fix it?

Secondly, I definitely want to fix the hood, that scares me a little. I did buy WD-40, so I will go lube it up soon. Also, you menitioned that pushing down hard is bad? That's how I've been closing the hood: slamming it down a little so it clicks past the safety latch, then pushing down hard to close it completely. Should I just slam it hard it one motion (I thought this might damage the hood)?

Anyway, I would like to adjust the hood so it securely catches. Is this something I need to take to a mechanic, or can I do it myself? Any advice?

As always, I really appreciate your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Power Steering....Go ahead for now and use the Lucas product. I'd just keep it filled and see what happens. It could shut up as you said it comes and goes. Locating that leak would be nice because if it is that shaft seal and it can't be stopped then the gearbox may need to be replaced. The PS pump used is the way to go. They are available new or rebuilt but they are a pain that way IMO. Ask for a complete pump assembly, brakets, reservoir and all and it's a fairly simple job vs the pump alone is all you get and other parts reused - I quit that as they can take too much time and when older especially I'm never thrilled with the separate tank idea and if untouched they stay fine for the most part. The pump is the weak link when they are run low on fluid and usually just that fixes it noise wise. You should find a shop that will work with you with things like this as some of these are one time things and you shouldn't be buying tons of tools for one time things like that.

The hood thing: In the never ending quest to reduce weight in cars the hoods were chosen and they are light aluminum I think and the latching seems to be for a much heavier hood. It's mostly that spring that makes it pop up when released and I've never altered those as it's worse if they don't pop up on their own. I hate slamming things in general, especially doors which is a bad habit of some folks who have been rendered instant pedestrians by doing such in one of MY cars! Many of these hoods I've tried to be civil with but these respond best to a moderate slam vs pushing down hard. I just got used to giving those a "throw" down from part open and didn't get into it further than that as they all do it.

Hood Again: I'm guessing as this is a common problem. It shouldn't need adjusting but with the age and if there ever was a reason (accident) that it had been messed with it might need some work. Just lube it up - latch side on radiator support and the hook and release mechanisms on the hood itself and this should be the last of that. Note where the hook goes into a hole where it catches in the radiator support on its outer edge of hook (hood part that swings) needs real grease so it isn't slowing the next latching process of the more complicated one which is linked to the pull cable from inside car.

As far a hoisting and getting under car when in doubt DON'T! For this car I would try to detail where they can be safely lifted and where to place jack/safety stands but even this car alone could have variables due to rust. If you see flaking rust on structural frame parts note that - it alone can be a reason to give up on a car sadly.

This will go to page two. Rare here but it has happened,

T

Response From MyUserName

Thanks. I'll keep the PS fluid filled and keep an eye on how fast it's leaking and whether the lucas product helps. Are there any hoses or other that I check under the hood that don't require getting under the car to see if I can find the leak?

On the hood, I will WD-40 it this weekend, and try giving it a solid slam (I also hate to slam things. I was very big and strong at a young age, so I had to learn to be delicate to not break stuff). Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There are many things to check without getting under the car. The PS has hose and line between pump (where you filled it) and the gear box. The cooling system has large hoses to and from radiator, small hose to recovery tank, and smaller garden size black hoses. Those you can just look at and with it cool, just run a finger on underside - should be dry.

Transmission has cooling lines going to and from the radiator. Find trans dipstick and check its fluid level - engine warm, level ground, running at idle speed. Brake fluid is in a smaller container with cap near firewall on driver's side. Plastic ones you can just wiggle a bit and see the level and min/max marks on the side. USE ONLY NEW BRAKE FLUID IF YOU EVER ADD TO THAT! If it needs much the brakes should be checked.

These things should all be mentioned in the owner's manual. There is heavy oil in the differential case (axle, round thing you see in the middle of back between wheels) that has a plug to remove to check while under the car. Just let that job go for when it's at a shop ask to check it and if it's full and no evidence of seapage you can pretty much forget it for long periods of time. That's actually not so DIY friendly to check and add. Car must be raised AND level, hard to add without a pump for that.

Tires and tire pressure including the spare should be a periodic check. Note when one needs air and others do not as that pretty much means a leak. For these I put 32-35 psi in each year round. Tires are marked as to the max allowable cold psi so don't exceed that. A door jam should have a sticker with the recommended pressures for most any car.

Batteries generally are sealed and maintenance free. They don't age well. Learn how old the one is you have - marked on it somewhere and might be a code embossed in plastic. Some will have stickers or something like "B-2" or "2-2" or even "Feb-02" ---- those would indicate the battery was made (sold is another date not as important) and all I just listed would mean February 2002. That's too old right now and pretty much batteries are only dependable for 3-4 years no matter what they claim on them. Check for corrossion on battery cables. Some stay fine for ages some don't. Basic tools can handle those to clean up and ask if needed.

Tires again: If you are in a snow belt and need tires get real mud and snow tires for these cars and just leave them on year round unless you want to swap them twice a year. None of these cars do well in snow with just all-season tires. They drive along ok in it, it's just not so great for getting up hills, driveways - whatever without some added traction.

How are you doing with building up some tools? Keep an eye out for a tool box too if you don't have one. I suggest plastic (Wal-Mart) or wherever as they don't rust - great to just keep in the trunk,

T

Response From MyUserName Top Rated Answer

Tom,

Thanks. I'm going to WD-40 the hood and the joints as you recommended tomorrow night, since I want to get that done before I drive again. I will also carefully monitor the PS fluid to see how fast it's leaking. I will set aside a few hours either this weekend or next and do all those checks (I'm sure, once I'm familiar with it, that I can check all the fluids and stuff in a few minutes, but the first time it will take a while to get familiar). I am particularly interested in checking the hose running from the PS resevoir to the gear box, since it would be nice if that were the source of the link. I have instructions on how to replace a hose, and that's probably a good place to start. I will check with you between diagnosing anything and actually repairing anything.

I haven't started on a toolkit yet. I figure the next time I hit Costco and Walmart I will see if they have a solid complete kit (looking specifically for the 16mm and 18mm's you mentioned), since that should save me trouble, but if they don't, I'll start building piece by piece.

I live in southern Maryland, so there's not much snow or ice. The battery is actually only a few months old, and I checked the oil a week ago. The oil needs to be replenished every thousand miles or so (and I'm not leaking. I'm told it's likely burning off oil, which has something to do with the head gasket and is supposed to be a non-issue as long as I check and refill regularly).

In amusing other news, after sanding off the rust, putting on novarex, and repainting, I discovered that the touch up paint I got (paint color DK, the code I got off the card on the inner driver's door) is the wrong color, so either I got sold the wrong paint, or they printed the wrong car color.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quick note on the tools: Wrenches.... combination, offset, 12 point - sizes to include 8mm thru 19mm. Sockets: 1/4 drive for smaller, 3/8 for larger, 12 point also but smaller ones are more likely to be six point. You'll find need for both regular and deep sockets for the same sizes as wrenches. If a great set is missing the 16+18 you could alway buy a single of each at hardware or parts stores. Wally World doesn't carry them last I checked.??

Touch-up paint: Nothing will match perfectly. If you have a chip from the car just match it up by eye the best you can.

Keep at it,

T

Response From MyUserName

Tom,

I checked my fluids and have some questions. I will start a new thread. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dave! Glad you stopped in. Kitty likes your new traffic lights but you know JIM's engine scares her and she's ready for him now! T

Response From Double J

Tom...

now she called in back up......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jim! Truce! Kitty heard "back-up" and she took off in the newest Lincoln and see what she did!!!! She backed up allright! T

Response From dave284

We know the real cause now. he got in way2old's tonic btw I'm talking about the cat.

Response From Double J

And I hear he (way2old) drinks it by the truck load.....

Here's a recent picture of him, caught by the papparazzi, on a recent weekend trip to the store to restock..

Response From way2old

THANK YOU, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Response From dave284

O.K NOMORE MR. NICE GUY

Response From way2old

Call Homeland Security. There has been a hi-jacking.

Response From Guest

Thanks, I'll check these out. I do have walmart and costco nearby, so that might help. I remembered one other thing: apparently the freon leaks so my father in law regularly got freon added before each summer, and it leaked out before the end of the winter. Otherwise, it's a rocking vehicle. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope you survived some silliness here Don't worry about the A/C right now - well where are you? We don't need to know exactly but here (MA) it's too cold to do squat about A/C. People are here from all over the world - techs included.

Don't go adding one of those fix it kits for the A/C. They cause more trouble than good and when the time comes if you want to do some basics with that you are at the right place.

For tools check at your Costco. Wal-Mart is ok for an item at a time but lousy for sets of things. Sears has the best bang for the buck and full lifetime warranty but you don't really need that for casual use. Harbor Frieght has some decent cheap tools. You should own basics just anyway and if something more comes along tools can be rented - I hear for free with 100% deposit for safe return at AutoZone and no doubt other places like them.

Back to the beginning - check the fluids and I just know the PS is low by symptoms,

T

Response From MyUserName

Well, you were right. There was nearly no PS fluid in the car at all. I will pick some up tonight and look for trans-x, along with WD-40 and get going on a tool kit. My plan is to conduct my first status check (chekc the fluids, etc.) in the next week or so, if only to learn how to do it.

Response From way2old

Hey MyUserName. Here is a site that gives you repair information. It is for the Mercury Grand Marquis, but the information is close enough to get you by. Good luck and enjoy the repairs. Learn to love grease. Tastes good. Wash it down with this. Enjoy.


Response From dave284

Just a note to help out, a HANYES repair manual would help out with illustrations cost around $13 to $18 bucks,with this and Tom's advice you can't go wrong.

1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From magic_ninja on 1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Okay so last winter i hooked up a bypassed heater-core on my lincoln (it was bypassed when i bought the car and now i have a heater-core to install). Anyway, since then I have had nothing but trouble from the coolant system of the car and the pipes coming out of the core to under the hood were not blocked off. I let it set for a month and the overheating problems went away, around 2-3 months later the water pump went out. Its been about 2 months since i changed the water pump and it has been overheating while running the AC in town or idling (i have not let it get to a dangerous temp though). Today I noticed coolant leaking and checked, and it was the same leaking as before (my water pump is out again). I need to figure out whats going on with my coolant system in the car and what i should do to get it up to par. This motor has 120,000 miles on it, so its got alot of life left in it. It runs fine as well. What should i do to keep the water pump from going out again and get the cooling system up to par (i noticed it had a lot of rust and corrosion and has had straight water ran in it for a couple years).

HERE IS SOME NEW INFO:
Okay so I idled the car with the AC on (to create the problem scenario) and filled the radiator completely (fill the radiator, wait for it to go down, fill some more, until completely full and also getting the air out of the system). Once completely full i kept the cap on and let it idle, idled for around 30 minutes all together, and it didn't overheat and i didn't notice the leak coming from the bottom two pulleys (water-pump and power steering pulley's i believe, its two pulleys one right in front of the other at the spot for the crank pulley and harmonic balancer). I probably got the names of the pulley's wrong but i can provide photographs if needed. Could heat be manipulating one of the hoses/clamps on the waterpump to be causing this leak? I would think if it was a bad water-pump it would be leaking all the time, and even after 30 minutes of idling and the coolant being completely warm there was no leakage from the water pump.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; You need to find out, for sure, where the leak is originating. There is a by-pass hose directly above the water pump that can leak, a faulty pump of course, or the timing cover gasket. A pressure test should confirm if it's the hose or the timing cover gasket. I've run into water pumps that would leak only 1)when hot, 2)when cold, 3)under pressure, 4)no pressure. You should be able to take a look at the seep hole on the underside of the pump to see if there is a 'coolant trail' where it may have leaked. Not sure if this engine/application uses electric cooling fan(s). If it does, make sure that they are coming on once it has reached temp. If it uses a clutch fan, make sure it 'locks up' once the engine reaches temp. You shouldn't be able to 'spin' it when warm. Oh, and never use rebuilt water pumps. Only new.
Once your leak is solved, get that system clean. May take several flushes. May result in more leaks...freeze plugs, ect. I had a '92 Lincoln TC in yesterday. Mint condition, except for the cooling system. Every one of the freeze plugs were leaking, including the ones at the rear of the engine. The engine is going to have to be removed to do all of them.

Response From magic_ninja Top Rated Answer

Okay, here is what I've got.

Drove the car around today with AC on max and got the car heated (took about 20 miles of driving). Once the car was up to operating temps I let it idle and water started leaking from the top bleeder hole of the water pump. Obviously this needs replaced. It was a new pump, and matched the one I pulled off perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty on it as well, so I can get a new one. I did apply silicon, RTV, whatever you choose to call it (thermal grade as well). I also torqued the bolts to specifications, however all I had was a needle wrench, but I am pretty sure it accurately did the job. The system was probably a 35/70 mixture of coolant/water with around 5-10% leftover from the old engine.

Fan Clutch - Performing fine.
Heater Hoses:

I'm sure I hooked them up right, based on the sizes each hose could only reach one side of the heater core.

My questions:
1. Its obvious this cooling system has been neglected and if I don't get it in order I'll end up blowing the motor or the head-gasket at least. I need to get the cooling system clean and up to par. What would be the best process to flush my system during the repair (could I do it before the water-pump as long as I keep the car idle). I would like to get all the gunk out of my system, as I have a new heater-core as well. I would like to have clean coolant flowing through the heater-core.

2.What other things might I want to look into, could the radiator be the primary cause of this? What will I need to do to make sure the cooling system is cleaned?

Repairs performed:
Coolant system flush
Top and Bottom radiator hoses
Water pump

I do have the book for this vehicle as well, so I have the specs I need for everything, as well as the owner's manual.

Thanks for your replies.

Added: what are freeze plugs, where are they located?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; In two months, I doubt that it would be the rust that caused the pump failure; And, there's nothing you could have done to cause it. Just happens. There is a seal inside the pump that fails. And, there are varying qualities of replacement pumps. Don't know where you purchased yours, but try and stay with a good quality pump. Even they 'can' go bad, but less likely.

Not sure what a 'needle' wrench is?

As far as flushing goes; If you remove the thermostat, this procedure will be quicker; I'd do it before replacing the pump, if you can do it without overheating. Most parts stores sell flush chemicals. Drain the coolant out of the radiator (if still clean, you can save and reuse it; If not, dispose of it properly) and refill with water. Run the engine until warm, then drain and fill again. You can't do this too many times. Each time, it'll get a bit cleaner. Once you are 'satisfied' with the results, refill again with water, add the flush chemical, and do it again following the instructions on the chemical container. This stuff will be, more than likely, toxic, so when you drain it out, dispose of it properly. I would suggest doing one last clean water flush afterwards to make sure you've got all of the chemical out of the system. A 50/50 mix with water and anti-freeze is ideal. Too much anti-freeze can cause an over heating condition as it doesn't dissapate the heat as well as water. Too little anti-freeze doesn't give you enough freeze protection, rust protection, and boil temp. protection.

Freeze plugs, or soft plugs, really aren't what they say they are. I used to think that they were there in case the water in the engine block froze, they'd allow for the expansion and be 'pushed' out, saving the block. Although I have actually seen this, that isn't what they were designed for. Usually, there are three on each side of the engine block, one or two at the rear of the engine (have to pull the engine or transmission to see them) and usually one at each end of each cylinder head. Replacing the plugs isn't a tough job once you've gained access. THAT (gaining access) can be a nightmare. On your application, it would probably be easier to remove the engine and replace all of them. If it comes to that.

Response From magic_ninja

Alright, well flushed the radiator, I used a garden-type pressure hose (has like 8 or so settings, not very much psi) and flushed from the top of the radiator on both sides down and the water ran out fine, at the same rate as it was flowing in and clear as well after a little bit. Then i removed the thermostat and sprayed into the thermostat housing, the water ran from the bottom of the waterpump with fine pressure and clear as well after a bit. Tested the thermostat by dropping it into boiling water and after a minute, it opened up just fine and slowly closed after i removed it. Doing the water-pump tomarrow.

As for the pump I used not sure, it was a 42 dollar water pump and bought from oriely's new. We pretty much only have autozone and oreily's here and I never have been much of a fan of autozone. We will see what happens after the 2nd waterpump repair and if it fails again. The coolant flow seems to be fine, btw i reccomend a racheting wrench if you ever have to remove a thermostat from one of these, the waterpump, alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access, lol, and its a pain in the ass with a locktighted bolt on :-(. Getting a new radiator cap, thermostat gasket and waterpump tomarrow as my radiator cap has a crack on the rubber seal inside the top of the cap, not sure if this could be the culprit of overheating myself, but it very well could be.

Response From Sidom


alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access
If you have a timing light, moving the dist makes it a lot easier.... the module is right in the way.

Response From magic_ninja

I just used a normal ole 1/2 wrench and it gets the job done, however much your fingers may hurt at the end.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The radiator cap is very important. First, it seals the system. If air can get in there, rust will be the result. Secondly, it keeps the water IN the system. Otherwise, the water will just go past the cap, into the recovery bottle. The bottle will overflow, and won't get 'sucked' back into the radiator once it cools down. Thirdly, a pressurize system raises the boiling point. Straight water without pressure boils at 212F. Under pressure, that boiling point climbs at varying degrees of pressure. I'm sure someone here has a chart.... I should have asked you about the cap at the beginning of this. Sorry.

Response From magic_ninja

Is there any way you guys can post me the torque specs for the power steering pump and water pump, I can't find my manual. Thanks.

Also if you can post a diagram of where the heater-core is in the dash it would help a great deal as i'm doing this too before I fill the cooling system back up.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; The water pump mounting bolt torque spec is 12-18 ft.lbs. Couldn't find anything on the power steering, though. I would think 25 ft.lbs. should be sufficient.
The heater core replacement is not for a novice. The whole dash has to come off. For an experienced tech, the labor time is 6.2 hrs. You may want to reconsider this? btw, it is mounted under the dash, behind the glove box, inside a plastic box that is easy to break, along with electrical connections, ect., ect.
I've been doing this for nearly 40 years, and I don't hate myself enough to tackle a job like this. If you are determined to do it, I'd suggest buying a GOOD manual that give step by step instructions. Good luck.

Response From magic_ninja

Thank you, I got all back together today with the waterpump, minus the fan/clutch fan shroud top/bottom heater hoses and alternator and assembly. As far as the heater core goes my uncle has done several and can provide help if I get stuck, the electronics don't worry me as its kind of one of my hobbies, and it shouldn't be that difficult. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep posting updates to see how the heater-core hoses go

BTW i broke a bolt on the air conditioner compressor pulley. There is still two and the pulley is held on strong/sturdy as I got the bolt in completely before it broke. I know its not the smartest thing, but you think the pulley will still hold fine? If not i'll end up using some african american inginuity to get it done.

Okay, IT IS NOT THE AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR PULLEY. Not sure which pulley it is, but its at the bottom left of the engine looking at it from the front. Anyway I figured out how to get the bolt out, thanks for all the help guys, its about time for a new heater-core thread :-). My uncle is a mechanic and said if i get stuck he will come help me.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; With your attidute, patience, and determination, I feel pretty confident that you'll get through it. Please, keep us posted.

Response From magic_ninja

It was the air pump, only found that out after I pulled it off. Looked on the net, found out about easy-outs drilled it out (easy out got it 2-3 threads out then broke lol) but enough that it broke the bolt and I could unscrew it out. Got dark once we got to the fan clutch/fan (lol i forgot to put the pulley on the fan/clutch) so hopefullyt omarrow i'm filling back up. Save the heater-core til I figure out why the impala is overheating. Coolant boiling out of resivior after some sustained driving. My guess would be a stuck thermostat. Anyway thanks for the help, I'll try to help answer some questions ont he site as well. I'm not professional but my entire family does their own mechanic work, and a good job at that, so even though I just started I already have a background of knowledge, i just need to aquire the know-how, and only one way to do that.