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Apex
2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Apex

P311-2DDCE71    AHG265  New

Qty:
$29.25
Apex Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Apex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Apex
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.9L Apex

P311-42ABFDA    AHG260  New

Qty:
$13.25
Apex Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Apex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.9L 360 -
Apex
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 4.0L Apex

P311-43516AF    AHG288  New

Qty:
$34.20
Brand: Apex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Jeep Grand Cherokee L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
Mopar
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mopar

P311-49EFCB1    53020673AD  New

Qty:
$65.78
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Doors Body Valves Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Wheel FeedBase Engine Version
2005 - Jeep Grand Cherokee - 4 Sport Utility 16 Naturally Aspirated GAS - SOHC FI 109.5 N/R
Mopar
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 8 Cyl 6.4L Mopar

P311-1202458    5038280AE  New

Qty:
$48.07
Brand: Mopar
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Doors Body Drive Type Valves Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Wheel FeedBase Engine Version Position Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 ESG 4 Sport Utility AWD 16 Naturally Aspirated GAS - OHV FI 114.8 N/A Right V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424
Victor Gaskets
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.2L Victor Gaskets

P311-1D54FB0    5940  New

519SD , 5300 9892 , 540SD , 9898 PT , 5302 1098 , 5302 0490 , 26179 PT , HG34020 , 5302 0366 , 5302 1098AC

Qty:
$18.28
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 102.49
      • 4.04
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Composite
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.05
      • 1.39
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.2L 318 5211
Victor Gaskets
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 4.0L Victor Gaskets

P311-1FF4D62    54249  New

5302 0754AB , HG32950 , 26211 PT , 9076 PT-1 , 5301 0587 , 530SD

Qty:
$38.91
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 101.35
      • 3.99
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.04
      • 1.02
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Jeep Grand Cherokee L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
Mopar
2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 6.4L Mopar

P311-1D67672    W0133-2205061  New

Qty:
$54.26
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2020 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424
Mopar
2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 6.4L Mopar

P311-31C1955    W0133-2205062  New

Qty:
$54.26
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2020 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424
Mahle
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 4.0L Mahle

P311-421423C    W0133-1765941  New

Qty:
$55.84
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Jeep Grand Cherokee L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
Mahle
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.2L Mahle

P311-5B0B5CB    W0133-1673220  New

Qty:
$25.29
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD V 8 Cyl 5.2L 318 5211
Mahle
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mahle

P311-4586EEF    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$68.56
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mahle
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mahle

P311-4586EEF    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$68.56
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mopar
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mopar

P311-13E16EE    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$74.33
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mahle
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Mahle

P311-2F78DF9    W0133-1929186  New

Qty:
$48.90
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Mopar
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Mopar

P311-4EC40D3    W0133-1929186  New

Qty:
$54.26
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Mahle
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.7L Mahle

P311-20ACA2C    W0133-1929187  New

Qty:
$48.45
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mahle
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.7L Mahle

P311-28A0685    W0133-1929188  New

Qty:
$47.65
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Left
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mahle
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Mahle

P311-4A0870A    W0133-2585444  New

Qty:
$134.29
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2985
Mahle
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Mahle

P311-4A0870A    W0133-2585444  New

Qty:
$134.29
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2985

Latest Jeep Grand Cherokee Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 jeep grand cherokee using excessive coolant o

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From rmanni01 on 2001 jeep grand cherokee using excessive coolant o

The coolant level indicator has come on twice in the last couple of months, indicating a low level. Have only had it for 3 months. 43,000 miles. Anyway, it requires about a pint each time. No apparent leaks. Would this be indicative of a thermostat issue?

Response From rmanni01

Pressure test indicated water pump issue. Having that, thermostat, coolant changed. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

GREAT!! That's a whole lot better than a head or head gasket problem, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That's a reasonably slow leak which is still wrong but doesn't make it obvious. Try running you finger under all cooling system hoses and use a mechanics dental type mirror for tough areas like the bottom of water pump or where needed.

The other (hope not) is that it is burning it thru a bad head gasket. At any rate keep it topped up and use the standard 50/50 antifreeze and water.

Also check passenger's side heater box area for a drip. This could be tough to find at that slow rate. Resist trying any sealers at this point and hit back and we can discuss that, Good luck, T

1998 jeep grand Cherokee

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Autozombie on 1998 jeep grand Cherokee

It is a 4l straight 6 and I am getting a p302 code #2 misfire.
I have gave it a tune up and have checked for spark and checked the injector harness with a node and have swapped injectors Around still have the same problem. Ok I have did a vacuum test it read 15 psi wIth very little movement on the needle almost can't see it. Also have did a coolant system pressure check started at 15 psi and over about 20 min or so it went down to 12 psi. Also checked pressure when it was running when engine was warm it started to raise pressure in the coolent system very slowly . So my next question is could a blown head gasket cause a misfire also is the any definitive way to check to be sure the head gasket is bad?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

15 hg is pretty low, you should be between 18 & 20 ( i'm assuming you're at sea level & not 5000 ') you should follow RT's advise & check for vacuum leaks.... Is it just missing @ idle & smooths out at higher rpms???

Also wiggle the harness on # 2 & at the PCM and see if that makes any difference.

Please define "tune up"

Response From Autozombie

Ok tune up was cap rotor plugs wire. And cylinder 2 is missing all the time seams no matter what the engine is doing idles rough and drive rough. I checked the exaust manifold to see if it had cracked and a couple of the bolts were lose so i thought that might be the problem but after new gasket and getting it back together no exaust leak but still missing. I have done a coolent system test started at 15 psi and after 15 it only droped like 2 psi and no coolent came out of any cyclinder. Also done a compression test all cylinders were around 160-170psi except cyclinder 1 was around 110Psi did a wet comprssion test with same results. So not sure what direction I should go any help would be great thanks

Response From re-tired

If you have a 110 reading on #1 wet and dry vs 170 + - you have a possible valve problem on # 1 cyl. you need to remove valve cover and inspect valve train. If all ok you need to have a shop do a cyl leak down test.

Response From Autozombie

But that would not cause #2 to misfire would it?

Response From re-tired

Yes ,it is possible for a valve problem on a cyl to afect an adjacient cyl...........Bear in mind all have to go on is the info your giving me .Please double check your readings and your plug wires order . If all is correct ,have the leak down test done to see if there is cross cyl leakage do to valve problrm or head gasket failure between cyl's.

Response From re-tired

First of all its great that your doing some some tests on your own. Let me touch on a few technical items . When checking vac your not looking for pressure (PSI) your looking for vacumm (HG).The reading you got was good, steady means no valve problems. Another vac related test is to have egine at idle , spray some carb cleaner using a small straw at intake mainifold and at vac lines. Listen for change in rpm .When checking cooling system, you want to put tester on eng cold , pump up the pressure till its at the pressure stamped on the cap and see if it holds approx 15 min. To check for head seepage, remove plugs, pump up coolant press as before. After 15 min crank eng over and watch for water vapor out of plug holes. To be absolutly sure , rent a combustion gas tester and follow directions,,,,,,,,,,,,,




























.

jeep grand cherokee troublesome overheating

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From dmac0923 on jeep grand cherokee troublesome overheating

2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.0 auto 4x4
137,000 miles
this question i am relaying for a buddy that approached me about it.

the jeep is overheating after about 20 min of run time. it happens both when parked idling and on the highway.

the radiator is full and the coolant in the radiator neck doesn't have bubbles or oil in it. thinking a possible bad headgasket

the lower hose heats up as normal and i can feel the upper hose get hot after it reaches operating temp suggesting the thermostat is opening correctly.

the fan comes on and off normally.

any ideas? this one has got me stumped

Response From Sidom

Just off the top of my head I would probably want to make sure the radiator isn't restricted. If you have a temp gun, measure the inlet & outlet temps you want to see at least a 40° difference. If you can get at the cores, make sure there are no cool areas, that would indicate restricted flow

If he hasn't change the T stat in a while it wouldn't hurt to put a good one in, just to make sure it isn't restricting the flow to much....

If you have the means, maybe chemical test the cooling system to be positive no exhaust gases are getting in there

Response From dmac0923

I forgot to mention that turning the heat on in the car will help return the temp back to the normal operating range and will stay there as long as the heat is on

Response From Discretesignals

What does the coolant look and smell like?

Sidom has some good ideas that you should have your friend try out.

Radiators can corrode from the inside and look perfectly fine from the outside, but they won't conduct heat very well.

Response From dmac0923

a lil further on this, speaking to my buddy, trying to get a little more background on this.

last year that radiator was replaced due to a crack and leak.

car was running fine until about 2 months ago. started over heating.

he had the thermostat changed with no effect on the overheating issue.

so im leaning more heavily on maybe a head gasket or a water jacket crack somewhere internally in the engine?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hey DMAC - hear ya - tricky one. Still check that radiator doesn't have cold spot(s) newer or not. If you are getting combustion pressures into cooling system it could be the trouble. Pressure shouldn't build up too fast from cold as felt with just squeezing upper hose. Release any pressure (you know how to be careful) and see if it builds up again fast or faster than anything normal.

That would suggest head gasket.

Can you feel good heated air blowing off fan from radiator when fully warmed up?

T

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.