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Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$60.13
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 5211 318
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$60.13
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1999 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V - 287 Rear
Monroe
Qty:
$14.97
Monroe Universal Lift Support  N/A
  • Back Glass
  • Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Length: 9.094
    • Extended Length: 14.567
    • Lower Mounting Code: E
    • Max Year Covered: 2004
    • Min Year Covered: 1999
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Jeep Grand Cherokee
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1080483
    • Travel Length: 5.472
    • Upper Mounting Code: V
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Jeep Grand Cherokee N/A
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$58.00
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V - 226
Moog
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Coil Spring Set - Front Moog

P311-18564D4    New

Qty:
$57.95
Moog Coil Spring Set  Front
  • Constant Rate Coil Springs
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bar Diameter - Inches: 0.54
    • Bar Diameter - MM: 13.90
    • End Type 1: Squared
    • End Type 2: Tangential
    • Feature 1: Powder Coated To Protect Against Corrosion, Which Can Cause Coil Spring Fatigue Or Fracture.
    • Feature 2: Designed To Lower Stresses For Longer Service Life.
    • Feature 3: All Coil Springs Are 100% Load Tested.
    • Feature 4: Worn Or Sagging Coil Springs Can Cause Premature Tire Wear Due To Vehicle Misalignment.
    • Free Height - Inches: 15.02
    • Free Height - MM: 381.70
    • ID - Inches: 3.83
    • ID - MM: 97.30
    • Installation Height - Inches: 10.00
    • Installation Height - MM: 254.00
    • Load - lbs: 905.00
    • Spring Rate - lbs per inch: 180.00
    • Spring Type: Constant Rate
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
Brand: Moog
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2000 - Jeep Grand Cherokee RWD Front
Monroe
Qty:
$15.10
Monroe Universal Lift Support  N/A
  • Liftgate Left
  • Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Length: 12.638
    • Extended Length: 18.622
    • Lower Mounting Code: V
    • Max Year Covered: 1998
    • Min Year Covered: 1993
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Jeep Grand Cherokee
    • Most Popular Year: 1998
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 556974
    • Travel Length: 5.984
    • Upper Mounting Code: E
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Jeep Grand Cherokee N/A
Denso
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Spark Plug 8 Cyl 4.7L Denso

P311-0232E80    New

Qty:
$8.74
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.044 Long # PK16R11 Double Platinum Plug - Extra Long Life Double Platinum Plug with Platinum Ground Strap
  • Double Platinum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
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Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine VIN Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
2002 - Jeep Grand Cherokee Naturally Aspirated V - 285 N FI GAS
Bosch
Qty:
$8.33
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Bosch Micro Edge Wiper Blade
  • Micro Edge
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 13
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch Micro Edge Wiper Blades are designed for dependable wiping performance. Every blade incorporates a fully-enclosed metal tension spring and a precision cut natural rubber wiping element. That means premium wiping performance and crystal clear visibility for safer driving. And the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system makes installation quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear
Bosch
Qty:
$10.45
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Bosch Excel+ Wiper Blade
  • Excel+
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: No
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 13
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch Excel+ Wiper Blades clean windshields better and last longer than ever before. This ultra performance windshield wiper blade features an exclusive dual rubber compound with a fully-enclosed metal tension spring, housed in an aerodynamic steel frame. The result is windshield wiper blades with less streaking and unmatched resistance to wear from weather and corrosive elements. And with the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system, installation is quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear
Bosch
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator Bosch

P311-29C8B1D    New

Qty:
$79.00 $177.32
Bosch Alternator
  • NipponDenso
  • 136 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Jeep Grand Cherokee

Showing 1 - 10 of 24,182 Products.


Latest Jeep Grand Cherokee Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 5 out of 13 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.

I'm New* 95' Jeep Grand Cherokee won't start (pics/vid inside)

Showing 5 out of 11 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From helpmejeep on I'm New* 95' Jeep Grand Cherokee won't start (pics/vid inside)

1995
Jeep
grand Cherokee
?
167,000


It all started when the light was left on in the car overnight. so i charged the battery with a yellow box that clips on the battery. so then i tried starting the car and it started, then it cut off. i tried again and it wouldn't start. I thought the problem was the battery again but my dad said it wasn't because the car is starting it just wont stay started so it another problem.

ive included pics and a video to help you guys help me out

video:


Pictures of engine:
http://picasaweb.google.com/113736482639619620841/JeepWontStart#

Response From helpmejeep

update:
someone posted a comment on the youtube vid saying check fuel pump so i educated my self as much as i could on the fuel pump and i went out to find it in the jeep and i found a fuse box, Ive included pictures of that also. so i open it up and locate the fuel pump fuse, and in the link i included above "pictures of engine" click on that and i added more pictures of the fuse box and fuel pump fuse.

so i really hope someone can respond to my post soon because fixing this jeep is urgent.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did you charge the battery or just use a jumper box? Bet by looks of battery that it's junk and should have a date on it. If over 3-4 years just going dead can kill them and if it starts will choke out the jumper box and strain the alternator.

Charge the battery with a charger out of the vehicle. Then have it tested. If still ok then clean the thing up and the connections.

If the vehicle has some funky alarm system a dead battery would possibly disable it till reset,

T

Response From helpmejeep

I used a jumper box. it is an old car and it still has its factory battery on it. but on the youtube video someone mentioned fuel pump

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Pay me now or pay me later............. later is always more money.

Response From Sidom

With any diagnosis, you always, always make sure your battery is good before running ANY tests.

Pull the battery, take it down to a shop or parts house and have it tested. Most will do this for free on loose batteries...

Response From helpmejeep

Update:

my dad and i were taking it down to the west side to get it fixed and (i drove in a car behind him just in case it would break down in the middle of the road) stoped to get gas and we he started it again he said that he didnt have to put his foot on the gas while starting it. so it was fixed. he tryed again and it was just fine. so now its back in the garage all fine. BUT we do need to replace some old parts.

Thanks guys!!

Response From Hammer Time

All fixed huh? Don't bet on that.

Response From helpmejeep

haha yeah but my parents are very cheep so we are staying away from repairs :/

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Cheap is one of the most expensive ways to approach a car repair! If you think, or parents, car repair is easy or cheap to even do you are in for a HUGE surprise!

Bet I have over 100 grand in just hand tools - want to donate? So far I think it's free to walk!

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The pic showed INTERSTATE as the brand of battery and not used as OE for Jeeps. Lead/Acid car batteries don't last 15 years no matter what you do.

What is probably happening is the battery croaked AND makes no decent connection to the cables. The jumper box didn't charge the battery but rather was connected to the cables directly and perhaps not any charge got to the Jeep's own battery. When that dead just removing the jumper box the Jeep would just stall out - no spark, no fuel delivered and a very dead battery won't even let the alternator keep it going alone.

Need to know battery is good and fully charged with good connections as said or this thing isn't going anywhere,

T

Re: 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Tom Greenleaf on Re: 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

Suggestion: stop aimlessly throwing parts at this....................

T

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

few things to try replace fuel filter, seafoam treatment or injector flush and check timing.

Response From speed

in his other post he said it was running rich but the computer was telling him lean, oxygen sensor?