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    • Body Finish: Aluminized
    • Body Length: 16
    • Catalytic Converter Included: No
    • Clamp Count: 2
    • Clamp Type: U-bolt
    • Exit Location: Angle
    • Grade Type: Performance
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    • Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
    • Muffler Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Material: Steel
    • Muffler Quantity: 1
    • Muffler Type Included: Super Turbo
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Oxygen Sensor Bung Included: No
    • Pipe Diameter: 3
    • Pipe Finish: Aluminized
    • Pipe Material: Steel
    • System Style: Cat Back
    • System Type: Single
    • Tip Cut: Angle
    • Tip Edge Style: Non-rolled
    • Tip Finish: Polished
    • Tip Outlet Size: 3
    • Tip Quantity: 1
    • Tip Shape: Round
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Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Cadillac Escalade V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Hi, new here - 66 Cadillac Hearse

Showing 5 out of 37 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From Lydia_Robinvale on Hi, new here - 66 Cadillac Hearse

Hi everyone! I'm new here. My name is Lydia and I live in LA, in the san fernando valley. I own a 1966 Cadillac S&S Victoria hearse. I am here to get advice and teach myself how to fix her up, since I don't have a lot of money to pay a mechanic. I'm hoping to learn all I can because to me fixing it (correctly) yourself is much more satisfying (and costs less) than taking it to someone else! I think since I am female and due to my lack of knowledge I have been ripped off by more than one mechanic and was actually informed of that once I joined my hearse club, so I'm looking to curtail that too. Anyway, here's me and my baby. Her name is Dusty and she looks like hell, but she is my prized possession!

Response From nickwarner

I like it hon. Hot Rod had a similar hearse to your that got customized like crazy a few months back.

We can help you as issues come up to work with it. One thing you might look at is taking a class at a local tech school this summer. Lot of them have an intro course about car maintenance and basic repairs geared towards people at your experience level.

I'm jealous of you CA people. In WI those cars rusted into nothing long ago.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1966 - no rust!

Lydia - There's plenty you can do with short bucks but you want to know if this is basically sound so you don't over-invest in it to find a nasty expense later.

I really don't know what might be all different than a regular Cadillac for parts? TKK, only one engine for any regular cars by Cadillac then anyway. Old as it is stuff still available quite easily for many Cadillacs and you are in the right state for good used stuff if needed.............


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Hi and thanks for the replies. As far as the rust...I have had her for almost 2 years now and I have spent way too much money for any sane person to consider, but for me it's a little bit more than just a car. But her chassis is sound and shes in ok shape as far as that goes. But she needs SO much work, thats why I am trying to cut down cost by doing as much as I can myself. The problem is, I am not like my friend Nik, who can basically do anything ever without having ever done it before haha! I'm trying though. I am extremely attached to her and regardless of how much money it is going to cost me to restore, I really don't care. I love my hearse and I could never just give up, even if the engine gave out. Why? I have no idea, it just is I guess! In the coming days I will post some photos and questions that will probably sound really stupid heh..but you've got to start somewhere right?

As far as I know everything mechanical is stock caddy, but everything pretty much from the dash back is hearse, specifically S&S which is why I can't screw up the trim when I take it off because it would be really hard to source more. Also all the windows are hearse specific because they are curved glass/commercial glass, and have to be salvaged from another 66 or similar year. Fortunately I have a source for the glass, which can be some of the most expensive parts to replace. I believe the engine is a 429. She was built somewhere in the midwest, where all hearses were built at one time...Ohio or something. But she was in service for a German funeral home in san francisco, and the original custom buily plate still exists on the wheel well under the hood. I dont think the funeral home exists anymore.

As it stands, her whole front end needs rebuilding except the centerlink which I replaced a year ago, something is up with the tranny, she has chattering valves (I think), some pinging going on, new tires, she overheats slowly at idle, she needs a rebuilt carb, needs the suspension looked at possibly...and lord knows what else is up inside her engine. As I said though, I dont care about the cost. And I'm not even talking how she looks, as she needs complete restoration outside and in. Its a labour of love :)

I have another hearse thats a cadillac s&s as well, but is an 84. It has intermittent wiring issues. It died in the middle of me driving it a few weeks ago and has been parked ever since. His name is Orwell (yes, I name my cars), and he will start up if we jump him, so theres a newly developed power drain coming from somewhere, but I dont have and dont even know which tools I need to test that stuff. I'm starting from the ground up.

If you look on statigram and type in #hearse, you'll see tons of photos of Orwell. His license plate is LIFENDS. Dusty's is DST2DST. We're freaks :)

Here's a photo of Dusty gettin it on with Orwell (because Orwell's battery was dead)

ETA: I forgot, the over investment and nasty surprise later? I've already gone through that several times. Haha..lady told me there was no bondo on the car, too. Turns out, the whole damn car is bondo! Well, not really..but there is a lot of bondo. And they conveniently forgot to mention the flinstones style hole in the passenger side floor.. I mean it is HUGE. I cover it with cardboard hahaha...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you are driving this regularly you do need the front end parts and suspension parts all good as well as brakes brakes of course.

The bondo and rusted floor could get expensive to fix.

The pinging you think is transmission could easily be engine knock/ping as it should have been a premium fuel engine and you can't find that octane anymore I know of. Plain tune up especially points and timing set. Could also have too high of compression from carbon build up. Note that as the points wear the bumper to cam in distributor the timing advances till it doesn't run properly and can ping.

If you find compression too high there might be an additive that will help. Can also just make carb eat tons of carb cleaner.

Overheat! Take care of that. I think this has a fan clutch which don't last forever to pull enough air and it needs to. Could be several things causing it to run hot - radiator bad or needing a good flush.

Hey - of course it's old enough to need plenty of things. Gotta make it safe at least first. You should be able to look inside radiator for the overheating to see basic junk that might be in it. If need be there used to radiator shops that could acid boil them or replace just the fins of the core it end the tanks are any good.

Find what makes it ping as if engine as strong as things were could be damaged by that alone.

One more for now. You can tell roughly how much "Bondo" was used with a magnet. If that was to fix rust it wouldn't last well and someday if you painted it the Bondo will not hold paint as well.

If worried, let a body shop take a look. I know you love it but might be a better parts car for another??


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Ooooh the bondo... Well, I personally haw sanded the entire vehicle and I have completely redone the bondo in a lot of places. Some wingnut didn't mix the bondo properly and the stud was somehow still wet underneath after all that time! There are many cracks going on too straight down from the metal. So I've had to take it down to the metal in some spots...

The good news is I honed my bodywork skills doing his. I'm still not perfect and I don't know how to pull dents or use bodywork hammers yet, but she doesn't really need any of that anyway. Her front left panel and light housing was bashed in by the previous owner and is crooked so that the bezel doesn't fit anymore and is held on by bondo. I will have to have that fixed professionally.

I had the timing and points and things adjusted but that was per a year ago now. I had brand new brakes put in, new shoes, etc.. But whoever did it screwed it up. I had the radiator fixed as it had 5 leaks in it but I need a flush because its real rusty in there now. I Donno. Dustys a mess but I'd never use her for parts

I asked some questions about noises she was malign in a separate thread, but I guess I'm not supposed to have more than one thread about the same car, so I've got a few issues I need to take care of regarding those. I have more research to do, and I know the clunk in the front which I didn't mention is due to a rotted rubber thing pushing itself all the way out, I'm not sure what to called but I will take a photo I suppose and post it..

Response From nickwarner

With the age of this, I don't think Alldata will have any specs available. I'd be checking on EBay to see if you can find a factory manual for this one. That would be a gold mine for info for you.

I've had holes in the floor like you do on 13 year old trucks. WI salt eats cars apart.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

What manual would I look for? 66 Cadillac I'm assuming but I don't know anything about manuals, they don't include how to take panels and pieces like the bumper off do they? Because a lot of the car is hearse specific and I'm pretty sure S&S didn't make manuals lol..

I managed to figure out how to take the bumper off should I need to replace the tail lights, though. My right red lens is smashed so I will need a new one soon, it caused a wiring meltdown last year being exposed :(

Eta: I'm confused as to whether its a Cadillac fleetwood or series 75 and I want to figure out the difference between the two regardless. All I know is it is a commercial chassis and the hearse club throws around the word fleetwood a lot but also deville....?

Response From Double J

Cadillac had different series vehicles.

The Fleetwood series included the Eldorado, 60 Special, Fleetwood Brougham, 75 sedan and Limos
The Deville series included Coup de Ville, Sedan de Villes, both hardtops and convertibles
The Calais Series included Calais Coup, Hardtop Sedan and Sedan

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

A hearse is most like a limo, in length anyhow. I know it's a commercial chassis, so I'm assuming I would go with the fleet wood series. I'll have a look around and see what I can drum up. A wiring diagram would be super useful too for when I replace the instrument panel. I scavenged one from a regular 66 that was sitting in a junkyard last year.

Response From Double J

In 1981, Superior Coaches acquired the Sayers & Scovill funeral coach business, better known as The S&S Coach Company. At that time, all S&S Coach designs, dies, fixtures and manufacturing techniques were merged into the Lima operation and the Company name became S&S/Superior of Ohio.

I deleted these pictures to make this thread readable again.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

What a great post! Thank you for that info and picture.

I really wish I had some money so I could do more/take her to be looked at. I feel like I have a sick pet!

Response From Double J

Click Here

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

There is currently a thread in the car troubleshooting section called "tranny noise". This issue is the exact one dusty has. I'm afraid it's time to rebuild her transmission, because the people who owned it before me never serviced it. It's made the noise ever since I got the car, but has become much worse. I figured the lunging forward and backward when shifting into drive/reverse was tranny related but it might be bad u-joints if I'm understanding what I'm reading online correctly. Regardless, do you guys think its time? I dont really have $700 but will find it if I have to..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

$700 for a trans job? No - lots more. The driveshaft on this may be all different. These and others used a CV joint made of u-joints.

Lunging isn't really the symptom when those went bad, noise and vibrations more likely,


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Dusty is making a new noise and pop banging on startup after sitting for a while. I turn it off, try again and it doesn't do it.

Actually my friend has a 64 combo ambulance and a place near me did his for $550. They don't like hearses he said so they get them in an out as fast as possible. He said he has has no issues.

She started idling really high util I press the gas a little. If not u joints, why is she lunging forward and backward?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Any vehicle old or new an automatic will be confused about how to behave if engine isn't running properly. Lunging depending what you mean probably isn't caused by trans or u-joints/driveshaft.

You pricing is all wet - sorry. If somehow this is trans itself and an overhaul is in order you really don't know what it will need till it's apart. You can look up what a kit cost for a normal just worn common parts but that's only valid if hard parts are usable. Newer vehicles some trans shops will just dump yours and rebuid a good "core" which will be VERY hard to find and probably nobody or junkyard is going to know it that one is any good.

Why not spend a couple bucks and have a professionals check out making a list with estimates of what this will need mechanically in general? Then a quick guess by a body shop (you'll need that and harder + more expensive because it's already bondoed up.

Now if this popping and banging when sitting for a while could be nasty expensive up to redoing the engine and it may be too far gone. Just a carb redo if possible can cost several hundred and still not be done.

Perhaps join a Cadillac club that may have major parts available. Already said I think - is the old to much older car place for both parts, whole cars, and people that will work on them. I think they still sell the paper magazine which at least was like a phone book of adds and no doubt now with websites. My guess is many parts will be from So. Cal. or at least Southwest US.

This stuff is tough when you have all the tools and place to do it AND THE KNOW HOW,


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Man, that sounds tough! I understand what you're saying though.

We have a friend in the funeral business who sells drivetrains, trannie and engines complete package salvaged from old limos nobody wants anymore. I'll hit him up and see what he says. Rumor has it he comes down on his prices if you take him out to dinner LOL

as far as putting it in, I have a friend who can do it, with cherry picker and all. Right now he's done both a 70s hearse ad is working on his 58 as well as a 59. Ill be damned if I can ever get him when he isn't busy though!

When I get a few bucks I'll take her in to have her properly looked at. Hopefully that won't be too long from now. I'll keep this updated with stuff as I find it. She didn't do the popping today. Maybe she just needs to be driven more? I checked the oil as transmission fluid. All is good.. Her noises seem to quiet down the more I drive her but come back when it's cold.

All in all when it's warmed up it runs alright for an old engine. But as a person who knows next to nothing about that stuff, I can't really say either way.

Response From Discretesignals

Maybe you could start by seeing what kind of mechanical condition the engine is in. If the engine is worn out and can't make good manifold vacuum you'd be wasting time messing with everything else.

Pick up a compression gauge and run a compression check on all the cylinders. There is loads of information on the internet and youtube on how to perform that test.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Compression gauge. Gotcha. I will have a look..

Response From Lydia_Robinvale Top Rated Answer

Right, so just to update, I have some new job prospects so I may have extra money in the coming couple of weeks to do some work on her! Finally.

In other news, the exhaust leak from under the hoo somewhere has become so terrible that I can't dive her for linger periods than 29 minutes because it starts to make me physically ill. I'm assuming that's bad.

The first thing I have to do is take care of her parking tickets. As soon as I'm able to do that, I wi sart going through her systems and figuring out what needs to be done. I've enlisted the help of an independent mechanic in my area who is interested in helping me for a very modest fee. Mostly diagnostic help. So I wi keep you guys updated..

We decided to try and sell the other hearse. We have a possible buyer but if we doesn't want it and no one else does we may keep him, but probably not. I will be sad to see him go.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Lydia - all fun and joking aside you can't drive that anymore until fixed or you'll get a ride in the back of one. Carbon monoxide can cause headaches, red skin, but leaves no odor on its own and is deadly! STOP DRIVING IT AT ALL TILL THAT IS FIXED NO MATTER WHAT ELSE IS WRONG WITH THE THING! You may not care but how about if you pass out while driving and hurt or kill someone? C'mon girl!


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

I agree totally. I never drive in er alone, but last night was really scary. I started getting dizzy and feeling really yuck.. Headache and such. I'm only going to drive her to move her to the other side of the street when the street sweeper comes (or else I'll get another ticket!) and that will be it.

I'm happy I will be able to give her attention now though. We have a buyer who may be interested in Orwell and she's coming to see it on the 12th. They run a hearse tour business in Arizona. I'm afrai she won't want him though, but I'll put him on Craigslist if I have to.

What could cause such a horrible leak? It smells terrible too so the whole no odor thing is moot.. She smells like poo-poo lol

Response From nickwarner

There should be black soot marks where the exhaust leak is. Could be an exhaust manifold, the gasket to hold it to the block, or anywhere along the pipe that could get the raw exhaust into the car. Need to get a good look at it. The noise itself should give you an area to look. I usually get my hand near it while running (not too close or you get burned) to feel for the puffs of air escaping through the leak.

The carbon monoxide is odorless. The rest of the crap in raw exhaust isn't. You'll get hurt trying to drive it more than to move to the other side of the street.

Response From Tom Greenleaf




Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Thanks for all your concern everyone.

Don't worry, I'm not going to drive her anymore except to move it. The leak is much, much worse than I remember it. So, after I get home from Maine next week I am going to wait a week or so till I have some $$ and take her in for a total rundown.

Am I supposed to feel puffs of air when the engine is running when I remove the orange oil cap? I read somewhere that that designates blowback, which is an indication of engine health, but I could be looking in the wrong place. If it is true though, I may as well replace the engine because its basically a steady stream of blowing air, and not just "puffs". I'm probably doing it wrong though.

As I said, I'm excited to finally be able to sort out her problems. I just hope I don't run into anything crazy serious along the way. I will scrimp and save If I have to rebuild the engine, tranny.. Whatever. Nothing but the best for Dusty :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Exhaust issues first! You can get in trouble without hearing leaks never mind this.

"Am I supposed to feel puffs of air when the engine is running when I remove the orange oil cap?" I think '66 models used vented oil caps with a steel wool inside to help return any oil rather than make a mess. There is some "normal" blow-by in an engine but when excessive indicates a tired, worn engine, usually too much gets by rings but it wouldn't be just rings to solve. Make sure PCV valve and hose are working and have suction - it does have a PCV valve in 1966. Think that started in 1964 on all vehicles.

You can fake it for a good while with a worn engine of the vintage but want to hear the exhaust is done first and we can take on that.

You'll love Maine if you've never been. Great weather here lately and best month IMO. Pre Memorial Day is great. Brace for cold nights!


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Oh ok .. Don't know why pcv valve and hose are but will look those up.

I was born and raised in Maine actually :) I'm visiting my parents.

One of the mechanics the hearse club uses is way expensive but he does the best work around. I'm going to have him take a look at it when I get back. Is there perhaps a checklist of things you think I should ask him definitely? I suppose I should just make a list, I'll just forget if I don't :P

Response From Tom Greenleaf

PCV = "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" which is a little metal (might be a plastic now) valve to suck the fumes out of the air in all the places above sitting oil in the oil pan that includes the valve covers. Some went right into oil cap, more were into a rubber grommet on valve cover. It will be a larger rubber hose that ends up at base of carb not the one that goes to the brake booster. If you pulled that out you should feel suction. If not clean out with carb cleaner, replace hose clean or replace valve till it rattles in your hand. Pretty basic thing. Those were the first and only emission control for a while.

Maine! Where from? I've been all over it and two siblings there now - to retire there too. I can be at the Piscataqua bridge in about 1.2 hours from here which is the ME/NH border for readers when heading North on I-95 from MA where I am. Great state,


Response From nickwarner

Tom, this is a 66 and as I recall they used the oil fill area with a little screen on it for PCV.

If you're getting a lot of air coming out of that when running, then you have a lot of blowby. What it is it combustion gasses getting past your piston rings into the crankcase. Even a healthy engine will have a small amount, but a lot of blowby indicates a worn out engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Remember these cars new. Crankcase venting was just a stink tube to the ground before PCV idea. I think all sold had to use one and not that pipe. It was oil filler caps that many just pushed on and would spit some thru the steel wool to catch it. Soon after that they closed that up too for sealed PCV.

Some other mandated changes by model year for all was seat belts, 1964. Owned cars with none and cars without padded dash boards even. All metal.

Right at oil Embargo of 1973 emissions got more serious exactly when gas prices doubled and the first non war gas lines were common. 1972? - or close Iraq instantly stopped selling crude to the US all at once. Pres. Nixon put national speed limit to 50 MPH not long later to be national 55 as truckers really complained.

I used to know when some total change year was for what and only know some. 5MPH bumper law for all cars (not trucks) in 1973. Meant the car had to sustain hitting a cement wall at 5 MPH with no damage. That only lasted till about 1979 models or so. Not sure but was 2.5 MPH to lighten the cars.

Not sure if a Hearse or Limo had to comply with everything either so some unknowns?? Trucks were exempt from lots of things till much later as there was a day a truck was specifically to work with not multitask as plain transportation too.

For now if a removed oil cap on a 66 blows out noticeably it isn't a good sign,


Response From re-tired

It would really,really,be a good idea to take a automotive shop course at a local community college. Often they will use a students car for hands on trining . With the knowledge you will gain you will be able to do more and more. And what you do have to outsource you will be able to talk the talk and spot rip offs. You have the desire and drive ,a little knowledge will go a long way. As far as $$$$ to do thiis .Talk to a admisssions /financial aid (loans & grants)person.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Manual: Is the company that made it still in biz? Find them if so. Some silly things may be unique to this vs a regular 66 Caddy. A lot of custom cars like it, limos, even ambulances would be different in some areas. Engine and trans probably the same. Ebay out an old "pro" edition of a Chiltons - all American cars were in one big book. They were expensive books back when not the junk paperback stuff you might find.

Back then those books covered 9 model years. Must be the "pro" editions as some stuff really is useless otherwise,


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

I think I remember looking for a chiltons but not finding one. Let me ask my club people which manual I should get.. I know that year has shop manuals, is that maybe something to try? The cd version was $30. S&S was bought out by Supeior I think, another coach company but they still use S&S as a name, but I could be wrong. As far as coach builder specific manuals, every hearse owner would have them if they existed. I could attempt to contact S&S.

If I had loads of money I could send her back to S&S to be redone by the actual coach builder, but alas.. I haven't yet a money tree :)

Oh and Tom, carbon buildup.. How do I clean that out? I know it needs a flush but what kind of stuff do I need to get the carbon out or is it even possible?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd bet a used paper manual would cost more to ship than the price. I have a 1961-1969 one that is awesome. Specs, drawings, pics, wiring diagrams. I'm talking about a dark green book with almost a cloth covered hard cover. Sorry to say but another was better by the early 1970s than those were,


Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Do you know who the manual is by? Just the manufacturer? I'm wondering if I can get my hands on one maybe on eBay but these things seem so rare now

Response From nickwarner

Look for one by Motor or Cadillac itself. Try Amazon too, they are great for used book sales. Another source which you should look into is Hemmings. They are they authority on classic cars like this one, and they cover things clear back to the brass era. Look them up, they have a on of vendors that can get you what you need.

95 Cadillac Seville Alternator install

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 95 Cadillac Seville Alternator install

What is the best way to get this alternator out?

Response From Hammer Time

Assuming you have a 4.6 engine, here are the instructions.


  1. Negative battery cable.
  2. Cover from headlamps and radiator shroud.
  3. Air cleaner.
  4. Left engine torque strut.
  5. Upper transmission oil cooler line.
  6. Right and left cooling fans.
  7. Serpentine belt from alternator pulley.
  8. Alternator lower front and front top bolts.
  9. Harness connector and output cable from alternator.
  10. Two bolts from alternator rear bracket to alternator. The bolt nearest the exhaust manifold cannot be removed from the bracket but can be backed out to allow for removal of the alternator.
  11. A/C splash shield from cradle (3 bolts).
  12. Access panel from bottom side of radiator support (4 bolts).
  13. Engine harness clip from cradle.
  14. Alternator from vehicle. The alternator can be moved out away from the engine and removed from the bottom side of the engine compartment.

  1. Alternator to mounting bracket with two bolts to rear of alternator (hand tighten).
  2. Engine harness clip to cradle.
  3. Access panel to lower radiator support (4 bolts).
  4. A/C splash shield to cradle (3 bolts).
  5. Harness connector and output cable to alternator. Tighten output cable to 20 Nm (15 lbs ft) and rear mounting bolts to 47 Nm (36 lbs ft) .
  6. Bolts to lower front and front top of alternator. Tighten to 47 Nm (35 lbs ft) .
  7. Rotate drive belt tensioner and install drive belt around alternator pulley. Inspect for correct alignment of belt with all accessory pulleys.
  8. Left and right cooling fans.
  9. Upper transmission oil cooler line.
  10. Left engine torque strut.
  11. Air cleaner.
  12. Cover from headlamps and radiator shroud.
  13. Negative battery cable and tighten bolt to15 Nm (11 lbs ft) .

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Don't know this one specifically but look. It may require tilting the engine or removing and exhaust part - dunno for sure without looking,


no power when car is running

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From caddyheaven on no power when car is running

i have a 1981 cadillac superior hearse with the cadillac 368 ci. motor. My problem is that it will start and run but it has no power, takes forever to get up to 55 mph, there is a strong smell of gasoline like the motor is flooding, and keeps stalling out at low rpms. I have changed the plugs and wires, set the timing to factory specs but that didnt help. it has an electronic carb with no adjustment screws like the older rochester carbs. any help will be appreciated

Response From Double J

First thing that came to mind is ..try advancing the distributor and see if it gets more power...
Maybe we have a timing chain/gear issue.
Also check the pickup coil wiring inside the distributor..fray and cause driveability issue.
Catalytic converter restricted?
Strong smell of fuel?...have you checked for leaks. hoses,lines,pump...
Fuel delivery problem ,as in not enough fuel can cause car to take forever to get power,especially right after cold start.
Bad carburetor?
Has the car been sitting any length of time?
Take a fuel sample?

Just throwing some things at you

Response From Guest

i replaced thr everything on the distributer including [plugs and wires, cap, coil ,pickup,rotor i have tried advancing the timing in 2 degree increments to no avail seeing as it seems to die on hills i will check the fuel pump
thank you for the reply

Response From Double J

To add..

I had an Oldsmobile back when that had a condition similar...took forever to get up to speed...I could get out and walk faster...LOL
....but it had a lean misfire to it after cold start and big time driveability issue cold..would fall flat on its face on hard acceleration,had to ease the gas to get to speed ....not as bad when warm but still noticable...

I found the steel fuel line back near the pump area that had a slight split in it...never ever showed a sign of a leak..I traced the line front to rear and couldn't see any sign of a problem....ran it on an external fuel source,in those days you could,..problem cleared...
So I removed all the lines and inspected and found the it was so small ,barely could see it...put on all new lines,steel and rubber....
Ran like a champ after that...
My point is...sometimes that even tho you don't see a leak,it can still be a fuel delivery /volume problem...

Just a thought...

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

There so many possibilities that could be causing this; it hard to know where to begin.
Is the automatic choke coming off all the way? If not that could explain the fuel smell and low speed stalling, plus the interlock for the “four barrel” would still be on, holding the secondary throttle closed causing the lack of power.
The power valve in the carb might be stuck/seized in one position again causing a low rpm flood and the loss in power, due to lack of fuel for the secondary’s.
The throttle position sensors were famous for failing with these carbs; they placed the sensor inside the carb, in the float bowl. Fuel would find its way into the sensor causing them to either go open or short to reference voltage. Regardless of which way it failed the computer wouldn’t know how far your foot was or wasn’t into the throttle; thus not adjusting timing or changing the dwell on the power valve’s solenoid on time.
Then it might not even be a carb problem; possibly a restricted exhaust/plugged converter; if exhaust can’t get out air can’t get in.
Then there’s engine mechanical; ie a timing chain that is very loose or jumped a tooth. You can still set ignition timing by cranking the distributor around but the valve timing would still be late/retarded.
Just a few thought off the top.


Look like we're all thinking about the same here guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Ayup" .......... or "EH" in Canadian!


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Open book of possibilities. Try taking a intake manifold vacuum reading at idle and again at no load at 2,000 RPMs as they should be the same. What is the vacuum reading at idle. If not real close to 18Hg and steady note just what it does and report back.

That would help narrow down exhaust restriction, timing issues, etc.,


OBD Code 101

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Question From mwhis2 on OBD Code 101

I have a 2000 Cadillac DeVille, I have replaced the mass air flow sensor, the rubber boot between the throttle body and intake and changed the fuel filter, but I still get a PO 101 trouble code.....anyone have any clues as to what is causing this code????

Response From Discretesignals

HT is right that other problems can cause that to show up. The engine computer is expecting a certain reading from the MAF sensor and it isn't within range of what the PCM thinks it should be. It is a performance code, so unlikely to be a wiring or circuit issue.

How does the engine run? You would really need to look at scan data to see what everything is doing and how the puter is calculating for MAF data.

Response From mwhis2

The car runs fine, we just got back form a 4oo + mile day trip...

Response From Double J

Probably out of your league as DS stated.
You will need a scan tool.

There is a TSB out for this concern.
If all checks out, then a reprogram of the PCM may need to be performed.

Subject:Check Engine Light Concern - DTC P0101 Set (Reprogram PCM) #01-06-04-002a - (02/14/2003) Models:2000 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
with 4.6 L Engine (VINs 9, Y -- RPOs L37, LD8)

This bulletin is being revised to update the programming information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-04-002 (Section 06 -- Engine). Condition
Some customers may comment on a check engine light concern or repeat concern of PCM DTC P0101 code only, with no driveability concerns. If a PCM DTC P0101 light sets but diagnostics provide no indication of component malfunction, a PCM calibration enhancement has been released to correct this concern. This enhancement will correct the setting of the following PCM DTC code:
DTC Description
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance Correction
If a vehicle is encountered with the condition described above and all of the diagnostic procedures listed in the applicable Service Manual have been performed with no resulting correction, use a Tech 2 scan tool to verify which software calibration is programmed into the vehicle's PCM. If the improved calibration has not been installed, re-flash the PCM with the updated calibration released on TIS 2000 CD #4 during the week of March 6, 2000 or later.
Important The following procedure MUST BE followed when programming a PCM on a 2000 Cadillac DeVille or Seville. If this procedure is not followed, a system interruption may occur during the programming process causing the PCM to lock-up and not program properly.
To avoid this condition, program the PCM on these vehicles using one of the following methods:
First, verify that the battery voltage is 12.5 volts or higher. If not, charge the battery. DO NOT program the PCM while charging the battery.
Method 1: Program the PCM Off-Board, using the Off-Board Programming Adapter (Kent-Moore J-41207C Off-Board Programming Adapter Kit).
Method 2: Program the PCM On-Board
Caution! It is critical that all J-45211 connections to the PCM, the Tech 2, and the power cable clips stay firmly connected throughout the entire programming procedure. Failure to follow these instructions may cause interruption of the PCM programming, which may result in PERMANENT DAMAGE to the PCM.

  1. Check to ensure that both the Techline terminal and the Tech 2 are updated with their latest respective software.
  2. Turn the vehicle ignition "OFF" and remove the key from the ignition lock cylinder. Turn off all electrical power consumers and accessories.
  3. Open the hood and check the battery voltage directly at the battery positive and negative terminals using J-39200 Digital Multimeter. If the negative battery terminal is inaccessible, or the battery is not located underhood, check the voltage between engine block ground and the underhood "+" junction block.
  4. If the vehicle's battery voltage is not 12.0 volts or higher, charge the battery before continuing. When finished charging the battery, disconnect the charger from the battery before programming PCM.
  5. Locate the PCM and disconnect the vehicle harness connectors from the PCM.
  6. Connect the J-45211 harness connectors to the PCM.
  7. Connect the J-45211 power clips directly to the vehicle battery terminals. If the battery terminals are inaccessible, or the battery is not located underhood, then connect to the engine block (ground), and to the underhood source of "B+" 12-volt power .
  8. Observe the red battery LED on J-45211. The red LED should remain lit whenever the J-45211 is connected to battery voltage. If the red LED does not illuminate, check the tool's 5-amp fuse. If the fuse is okay and yet the red LED will not illuminate, contact Kent-Moore at 1-800-GM-TOOLS for assistance.
  9. Toggle the power switch on J-45211 to apply ignition voltage to the PCM.
  10. The yellow and green LED(s) should illuminate when the power switch is toggled on. The yellow LED monitors the ignition voltage being applied to the control module. The green LED(s) are a feedback signal from the control module indicating that the module's internal circuits are operating.
  11. Connect the Tech 2 to J-45211 and enter Service Programming Systems (SPS)
  12. Select and perform Request Information .
  13. After the Tech 2 has completed the Information Request, toggle the J-45211 switch off.
  14. Turn off the Tech 2 and disconnect it from J-45211.
  15. Connect the Tech 2 to the Techline terminal. Download the new PCM calibration into the Tech 2 using the Techline Terminal and TIS 2000 software. After the download into the Tech 2 is complete, disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal.
  16. Reconnect Tech 2 to J-45211 and toggle the tool's power switch on.
  17. Enter Service Programming System (SPS) , select and perform Program .
  18. After programming is complete, toggle the J-45211 switch off, and wait until the green LED(s) turn off before continuing or disconnecting any connectors.
  19. Turn off Tech 2 and disconnect it from the J-45211.
  20. Disconnect J-45211 from the PCM, ground and power.
  21. Reconnect the vehicle harness connectors to the PCM and reinstall PCM.
  22. Connect the Tech 2 to the underdash DLC connector, and start the engine.
  23. Turn the Tech 2 on, "build the vehicle", and select Diagnostic Circuit Check . then Clear All DTCs . NOTE: this will clear all DTCs in all control modules, all at the same time.
  24. If the Service Engine Soon light comes back on after clearing DTCs, another concern may be present or a Crankshaft Position Variation Relearn Procedure may need to be performed. Follow existing Service Manual procedures.

If an interruption occurs during the programming process, an error message will be displayed. DO NOT disconnect or shut off power. Re-start the programming process and attempt to program again. In some instances (especially where less than 10% of the programming has been completed), the PCM will lock up and no longer program. If this occurs, the PCM must be replaced.
Important All DTCs, calibration numbers, technician observations and customer comments are to be recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2 G of the General Motors Service Policies and Procedures Manual. Calibration Information
The calibrations listed are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations are available from Techline on TIS 2000 CD #4 beginning the week of March 6, 2000.

Response From mwhis2

THANKS so much for all of the info. I will be taking it to the shop...Thanks again !!

Response From Discretesignals

There are no other codes popping up, right?

Your going to need a scan tool to look at scan data. TPS voltage, MAP voltage, etc. Anything that affects the air flow through the MAF is all suspect. I'd look at freeze frame data and see how the code is setting. This might be out of your league unless you see something obvious.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The sensor isn't the only possibility. A problem with the wiring or the PCM itself can also set that code. Even a plugged exhaust could set it.

1996 Cadillac Concours Overheating while driving (can idle all day)

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Question From davesakiller on 1996 Cadillac Concours Overheating while driving (can idle all day)

I am looking to purchase a 1996 Cadillac Concours and it will overheat while driving.
Current owner installed a new radiator and that did not fix the problem.
He says it will idle in the drive way all day long and never over heat; just while driving down the road.

Any idea what the deal can be?

I am getting a great deal on it, just dont want to bite off more than I can chew. Replacing a water pump (if that's the problem) isnt the end of the world!

Thanks for the help!

Response From Double J


usually is the other way around....
just some things to check i know the northstar has a different smaller drive belt for the water/coolant pump...
its on the drivers side front of the engine where the pump is...many have come in overheating and the belt was off-they all thought serpentine belt drove pump...but will overheat idling as well. check the air dam in front under radiator area,make sure its directing air up thru radiator area....not missing or broken....
also known on these years....head bolt threads pull..appears to be head gasket leaks....heads have to be removed and holes drilled out and inserts installed,bolts replaced,.....good news is ,this repair is stronger than original setup...bad news,very costly to do....
before buying this car,take to cadillac,if posssible and have it inspected for sure.....they know the quirks with this vehicle..
worth the diag charges....northstar engine is a great engine,built for performance,not meant to be pussyfooted with but meant to drive but can be costly to repair.also known for case halves of the engine leaking oil...some seep,some get real bad..have seen some with engine block porosity where the coolant seeps right thru the block...engine needs to be replaced for that.last one was at 30k mileage its not always a high mileage issue......not trying to discourage you at all..deville concours is a great car...just have it checked thoroughly first.......

Response From davesakiller

Any idea about what a diag. charge would run?

Response From Double J

depending on what they do,i think most cadillac dealers are up around 100 plus bucks an hour...some,like the last dealer i was at are using a matrix type labor scale...that increases the labor big time,retro to the first hour after 2 plus hours of labor...
they should be able to diagnose for a basis hr diagnostic charge...

i think this is your best bet...that way you know what your getting into.......
how many smiles are on the odometer????
just curious...
good back with results.....

<<<<<<< cadillac owner>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..

Response From davesakiller Top Rated Answer

So, this is what I have found out from the owner, any ideas what could be the problem from this description?

The Cadillac runs perfect. It has plenty of power and is very smooth.
There is absolutely no smoke coming out of the exhaust and the oil is very clean. There are no common signs of a blown head gasket.
The air works fine like it should, cold when the a/c is on and hot when you have the heat on.
The radiator is closed; the only cap is on the overflow tank. I have pulled off the cover to the water pump and it turns.
I have only pulled one plug, #2, and it looks fine.

Response From Double J

Stupid question,have you road tested the car?

is it actually overheating,because what you describe,the vehicle is operating as designed.

when driving,is it highway speeds or just any speed that it "overheats".
if its overheating,it should show signs of it,coolant loss,coolant backing up into reservoir,smoke, get my point.
if you haven't driven it yet,do so.if it does overheat,with his permission,take to cadillac for diagnosis.
i assume you checked coolant level.had system pressure tested.

post back......i'm still thinkin'

Response From davesakiller

Previous owner stated that radiator was stopped up and needed replaced. Radiator was replaced, and did not solve problem.

Response From Double J

radiator was stopped up doesn't sound good.
was system flushed??
My concern for you is this..these engine DO have a history of small headgasket leaks as well causing combustion gasses to get into cooling system.
thats the thing with buying used cars....sometimes you drive aways to see them and get disappointed and come home empty handed....just be careful.....if you want it badly enough,make sure you have it checked by a quailfied cadillac or equivalent technician....
good back with what happens...

Response From davesakiller

Hate to be a nuisance, but I spoke to the owner again. He said the previous owner had it pressure tested and came back fine. Said it just needed a new radiator. When the radiator was replaced, he didn't flush system. When it is overheating (about 220 he said?), water is being pushed out of the top of the overflow tank. What would cause this?

Is 220 overheating after 30 mins or so? Is there an indicator in the car that says "Hey, youre overheating"? Or does he think 220 is overheating?

When he pulls the thermostat out it takes longer to heat up. He was told there might be an "air bubble" by someone....dont know how reputable.

The fan comes on and the water pumps comes on!

Sorry for the all the questions, but you are helping a lot!

Response From Double J

Water being pushed up thru the overflow tank is a good indicator that :
1) thermostat is stuck

what clogged the radiator in the first place.
air bubbles are always possible but he wasn't chasing an air bubble originallly.he was chasing an overheat condition.
i mean if the system is functioning properly it won't develop an air bubble unless the system is opened and not
purged correctly.
air bubbles will make it overheat at idle too.
it has a gauge indicating the temp and should have a red light indicating overheating. 220 is getting pretty warm.
uaually the car will cool down while driving because your forcing air across the radiator.temps usually climb higher when vehicle sits idling until the fans come on.
see if he'll split the cost of diag. with ya because that way if you do find its something major and don't buy it he'll at least have paid for some knowledge about his vehicle.....don't count on this tho.

Response From davesakiller

So, if it is "COMBUSTION GASSES ARE GETTING INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM", the solution is replacing the head gasket?

How much generally does that run? $Hundreds, $Thousands?

Response From Double J

It can be very costly.....
engine will be removed,heads removed,all head bolt holes have to be drilled out,and inserts installed.
headgaskets replaced .
it can run $3000.00 plus easily....
i left cadillac in 2003 and then it was approx $2500.00 and that was at $94.00 hr labor.....they are much higher today...labor to drill and install inserts alone is 1/2 hr per hole......
give your local cadillac dealer a call and run it by 'em...they do enough of these i'm sure to give you a decent ball park estimate.....
post back with what they tell ya......curious....
heck i';m gonna call some here and check ......see how close i am.

Response From Double J

Called caddy dealer...
the cost has gone up big time around here..

Quoted $4500.00 to $4800.00 and now their having trouble with the higher mileage engines....their installing the inserts and their pulling back out of the blocks after running....their having to replace engines.....
I didn't check engine price,but back then it was over $10,000...i can only imagine now.....

good luck to you...proceed with extreme caution on this one....


Response From Double J

oh and by the way

your not a nuisance at all.
i do this for free because i enjoy the hell out of it.
i hope i get posts other wise the board is boring and i'll have to talk to the other boys.just a joke.....

Response From davesakiller

I have not road tested the car yet. It is about 30 mins from me, and I won't be able to make it out there until Saturday.
I am just trying to figure out if it would be worth the drive only to come back empty handed because it's something that is going to cost me a fortune to fix.