Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Control Arm

Choose a Year for your Volvo 's Control Arm

  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • APA/URO Parts
    APA/URO Parts
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Febi
    Febi
  • First Equipment Quality
    First Equipment Quality
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Lemfoerder
    Lemfoerder
  • Mevotech
    Mevotech
  • Meyle
    Meyle
  • Moog
    Moog
  • Professional Parts Sweden
    Professional Parts Sweden
  • Scan-Tech
    Scan-Tech
  • TRW
    TRW
  • URO Parts
    URO Parts

Best Selling Genuine Volvo Control Arms

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Professional Parts Sweden, Scan-Tech, Genuine, Lemfoerder, Meyle, Febi, TRW
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Volvo Replacement Control Arm Parts

We stock Control Arm parts for most Volvo models, including C30, C70, S40, S60, S70, S80, S90, V40, V50, V70, V90, XC70, XC90, 240, 242, 244, 245, 740, 760, 850, 940, 960.

Dorman
1975 Volvo 242 Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-2337119    W0133-1614867  New

Qty:
$64.99
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - Volvo 242
Dorman
1975 Volvo 242 Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-4C18DBA    W0133-1614697  New

Qty:
$65.22
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - Volvo 242
Professional Parts Sweden
1985 Volvo 740 Suspension Control Arm Professional Parts Sweden

P311-4EC780E    W0133-1612736  New

Qty:
$88.98
Professional Parts Sweden Suspension Control Arm
  • PLEASE NOTE : If the Control Arms that need to be replaced are Aluminum, these are no longer available and have been replaced by Steel Control Arms, so you will also need to change the Control Arm Stays, 1-per side, part # 6819079 and the Sway Bar Links, 1-per side, part # 9157725KIT.
  • Steel with Inner Bushing
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Volvo 740
Scan-Tech
1985 Volvo 740 Suspension Control Arm Scan-Tech

P311-324F5DC    W0133-1612736  New

Qty:
$92.52
Scan-Tech Suspension Control Arm
  • PLEASE NOTE : If the Control Arms that need to be replaced are Aluminum, these are no longer available and have been replaced by Steel Control Arms, so you will also need to change the Control Arm Stays, 1-per side, part # 6819079 and the Sway Bar Links, 1-per side, part # 9157725KIT.
  • Steel with Inner Bushing
Brand: Scan-Tech
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Volvo 740
Professional Parts Sweden
1986 Volvo 740 Suspension Control Arm Professional Parts Sweden

P311-4EC780E    W0133-1612736  New

Qty:
$88.98
Professional Parts Sweden Suspension Control Arm
  • Steel with Inner Bushing
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Volvo 740
Professional Parts Sweden
1985 Volvo 740 Suspension Control Arm Professional Parts Sweden

P311-379C61D    W0133-1601916  New

Qty:
$95.77
Professional Parts Sweden Suspension Control Arm
  • PLEASE NOTE : If the Control Arms that need to be replaced are Aluminum, these are no longer available and have been replaced by Steel Control Arms, so you will also need to change the Control Arm Stays, 1-per side, part # 6819079 and the Sway Bar Links, 1-per side, part # 9157725KIT.
  • Steel with Inner Bushing
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Volvo 740
Dorman
1997 Volvo S90 Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-294EFF6    W0133-1609201  New

Qty:
$101.39
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o B-Jnt., with Bushings
  • w/o B-Jnt., with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo S90
Dorman
1997 Volvo S90 Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-035F1DF    W0133-1609134  New

Qty:
$92.99
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o B-Jnt., with Bushings
  • w/o B-Jnt., with Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo S90
Genuine
2000 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-2FA8600    W0133-1805939  New

Qty:
$130.28
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Comfort/ Dynamic (Standard) Suspension
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo S40
Genuine
2000 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-276F76E    W0133-1805940  New

Qty:
$130.28
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Comfort/ Dynamic (Standard) Suspension
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo S40
Professional Parts Sweden
2000 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Professional Parts Sweden

P311-322AF39    W0133-1906110  New

Qty:
$21.47
Professional Parts Sweden Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings Volvo calls this a "Control Link"
  • with Bushings
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo S40
Lemfoerder
2000 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder

P311-3A6FEEB    W0133-1906110  New

Qty:
$30.08
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bushings Volvo calls this a "Control Link"
  • with Bushings
Brand: Lemfoerder
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo S40
Professional Parts Sweden
2001 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Professional Parts Sweden

P311-322AF39    W0133-1906110  New

Qty:
$21.47
Professional Parts Sweden Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Volvo S40
Lemfoerder
2000 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Lemfoerder

P311-2C06E5C    W0133-1805943  New

Qty:
$30.66
Lemfoerder Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Lemfoerder
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo S40
Genuine
2005 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-255A7FC    W0133-1778211  New

Qty:
$216.27
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with In. & Outer Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Volvo S40
Meyle
2005 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Meyle

P311-525D35F    W0133-1778213  New

Qty:
$22.51
Meyle Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
Brand: Meyle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Volvo S40
Meyle
2006 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Meyle

P311-525D35F    W0133-1778213  New

Qty:
$22.51
Meyle Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Meyle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Volvo S40
Genuine
2008 Volvo S60 Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-5D0B450    W0133-1898334  New

Qty:
$98.44
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Bushings
  • w/o Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Volvo S60
Febi
2004 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm Febi

P311-16F2322    W0133-1769455  New

Qty:
$16.03
Febi Suspension Control Arm
  • with Bushings
  • with Bushings
Brand: Febi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Volvo S40
TRW
2004 Volvo S40 Suspension Control Arm TRW

P311-0924465    W0133-1769455  New

Qty:
$64.66
TRW Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bushings
  • with Bushings
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Volvo S40

Latest Volvo Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Idle shaking, is the car worth it?

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From volvo415 on Idle shaking, is the car worth it?

Hi, this is my first time posting on this forum. I am going to describe my problem in as much detail as possible and hopefully someone who really knows about the car tells me something that works for me.

Car: Volvo s80 2001
100k miles

Bought the car of an auction without test driving it for a very cheap price. Started the car, started fine but died suddenly, felt like it lost power. Had to get the car towed to the mechanic from the auction because i had already bought it. Mechanic said alternator is bad, spent bunch of money for the new alternator and the car seem to be fixed. The car was taking a few seconds to turn over and start but nothing else, it drove fine for a few hours, infact drove perfectly. I stopped the car for a minute, still running and loud weird noises started coming out of the speaker, (AC was running high). Turned the car off to stop the loud noises, turned it back on and tried reversing it and felt like the car had no power, like it was about to die any second. So i put it back in parking, turned it off again and tried turning it on, and it wouldn't start. Got the car towed to a volvo dealer, who said that the previous mechanic put the wrong alternator, again i spent a bunch more money at the dealership for the new alternator. IT still takes a few seconds to startup, but it is driving fine again, but suddenly the car starts shaking in idle. Only when its stopped on a signal or something does it shake, but when running, it drives very smooth. Took it another mechanic, he said some plug or sensor is bad and the coil needs to be replaced. Again it seems to be fixed, started up instantly and stops shaking. After a few days, the car starts shaking lightly again in idle, not as violently as earlier but still. Took it back to the mechanic and he said another plug or sensor needs to replaced.

AT this point, i was sick and tired of this car and didn't want to spend anymore money on it. I felt like all the mechanics didn't really care and didn't understand the problem. I dont know what to do with this car, everytime i drove it, it drove very very well, no noise, no shaking while driving. So i feel like the car can still be worth it. But what can or should i do.

Response From Discretesignals

One problem is that you are going to more than one mechanic. You should have taken it back to the first mechanic that installed the alternator. That is considered a comeback and they would have to diagnose it for free.

You bought a Volvo at an auction, so you have to understand that there is a reason it is there. Volvo parts aren't cheap if your living paycheck by paycheck.

Do you have any knowledge of working on Volvo and tooling? If not, your at the mercy of your mechanics.

Response From volvo415 Top Rated Answer


I actually bought the car through a dealer from a dealer auction, where you had to have a dealer card or something. I know, i realized that going to different mechanics was the wrong idea but i felt like each mechanic was ripping me off, so i kept going to different ones.
The amount of money i have spent on it, i want to get it fixed and drive it for at least another year. So someone please help me out here. I know the car won't be fixed without someone looking at it, but the amount of detail i have included, what is your best diagnosis.

Let me include exactly what it says on my invoice, maybe someone can make better diagnosis.

1st time- towed from auction to mechanic, bad alternator, car took a few seconds in turnover to start, but died after a few hours of driving.
volvo dealer- said wrong alternator was put in, and said it will cost 4k dollars to 100% fix it.
3rd time- took the car to a mechanic because it was shaking in idle, taking longer to start, having a longer turnover. This is what i got from the mechanic,

Ignition coil (AA) E371 ------------$45
Spark Plugs (AA) APP3923 --------------$24 for six of them.

The mechanic also wanted me to get "right side half-shaft, tires, control arm bushing (both) and rear pads and rotors. But i didn't.


So after all this, car still shakes while in idle, and when i press on gas lightly, it feels like it will shut off. but press on gas harder, it drives fine. Still having the longer turnover before start problem.

Response From nickwarner


i felt like each mechanic was ripping me off, so i kept going to different ones.

You have no idea about what IS wrong with this or how the system even works, but automatically assume because the car isn't perfect that you were ripped off. You initially bought the car at an auction, which I need not even go into as the others have taken the words out of my mouth. It died out and did not have the battery power to restart so you had it towed. Your first mechanic diagnosed a bad alternator and made the repair needed to make it run.


The amount of money i have spent on it, i want to get it fixed and drive it for at least another year.

A perfectly understandable thing to say. We all want that from our vehicles. Jumping from one shop to another isn't making a lot of sense if you are trying to do it.


volvo dealer- said wrong alternator was put in, and said it will cost 4k dollars to 100% fix it.

I would wonder why you didn't bring it back to the original mechanic who already has your money from the first job and get this remedied. Also, ask Volvo why the alternator is wrong. Are they saying it because it is from a parts store instead of directly from Volvo with a Volvo part number? Why is this a $4000 job for an alternator only? I've never seen one that expensive even with labor in my life. An estimate like that deserves and in fact requires clarification.

3rd time- took the car to a mechanic because it was shaking in idle, taking longer to start, having a longer turnover. This is what i got from the mechanic,

Ignition coil (AA) E371 ------------$45
Spark Plugs (AA) APP3923 --------------$24 for six of them.

So he found weak spark because you needed a tune-up and had a weak coil. While that alone was not all you needed to make this perfect, it was what he was able to find wrong and remedy for you.

The mechanic also wanted me to get "right side half-shaft, tires, control arm bushing (both) and rear pads and rotors. But i didn't.

Ok, this was a very bad move. If that halfshaft breaks you will be stranded with a car that won't move. Inconvenient but not dangerous. The control arm bushings are getting play in them, and if they get any worse are going to make this car handle dangerously and be difficult to control. Last but not least, you are willing to spend $4000 on an alternator to make it run but refuse to do a BRAKE JOB!! That is like walking up to every single person on the same road as you, giving them the finger and saying "I don't feel like keeping my car safe and don't give a damn if your friends and family have to die because of it." You have no right driving something with marginal brakes on a public road. I don't care one bit if it runs like crap until that is fixed. Going is optional, stopping is not.

One thing to bear in mind is that auction cars sit for quite a while not being driven. No telling how long this one sat around. With the ethanol in gas today. it has a third of the storage life of gasoline without the ethanol. You haven't really gotten to drive this very much since you got it, and you might just have some bad gas to work out. Get a bottle of Chevron Techtron additive and a full tank of fresh gas, then run it around a good bit (after you get those brakes put on) and see if it helps. Its not a magic cure, but may give some benefit.

Volvo vehicles are in with the other Euro cars in the way the are built. They use different tools and are designed differently than american and asian cars. As such, you need to be going to a mechanic that specializes in european cars. He is going to have the specialty tools and scanning software along with a familiarity with the particular problems these are known for. Think of us like doctors, some are general practice (basic maintenance, exhausts, brake and suspension), some specialize (driveability techs, transmission techs). So when you have an issue you need the right guy. You wouldn't go to a proctologist to find out why you keep getting headaches right? Even though he went to medical school, the way he is used to diagnosing something would be to say the least unpleasant for you and you may not get the results you want.

You don't have to go to a dealership only. You need to find a shop that specializes in euro cars. The ones that do usually only work on them and nothing else. They make sure their advertising lets you know that this is all they do. There are far too many things that could be causing your problem. None of us are going to be able to tell you with any certainty what is wrong, but we all know you need someone who knows this car line well.

Response From Double J




You wouldn't go to a proctologist to find out why you keep getting headaches right?


I know a couple people that could because their heads are up their a**es!

Response From nickwarner

There are plenty in Washington getting a paycheck right now. A few of them in corporate at my job who might fit in well with them too.

OP: Glad you found a shop that can handle this and I hope it allows you to start enjoying what you have to this point just poured money into without remedy. I'll be interested to hear what they find

Response From volvo415

Thanks for all of your replies, taking the car to a mechanic shop that has good reviews. It's called J&L foreign auto care, i called them and they said they work mostly on foreign cars and that i should bring in my volvo. Lets see how it goes. Thanks again. will post what happened tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time

I actually bought the car through a dealer from a dealer auction, where you had to have a dealer card or something.

You're missing the whole point here. The point is............... If you are going to take the risk of buying a car like a Volvo at an auction, you had better be very mechanically competent and on Euro cars specifically which you obviously are not.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK, OK. No matter what errors so far let's take things one at a time. It doesn't idle properly and has extended crank time before starting. I have no clue what was going to cost $4,000 over an alternator!

We know things are more costly on this than more common cars plus info available for specifics near impossible for me long done with this wrenching sport. Even back when would refrain from vehicles that would require more specific tools and info that I would never recover so shops tended to either avoid or go nuts and do lots of them.

You do need a shop and tech that deals with this car. It's not rare just a bit of a different bird in some ways. At the moment just basics I don't think you are getting proper fuel delivery at low RPM and really not sure why but could be checked. Hope not but if compression is an issue this is real trouble but need to know if that's a factor and could smooth out at higher RPM.

So, in short here to help but you do need a shop + tech that routinely deals with this car and they are out there. It's never best to guess at what is needed just worse with this and some other cars like it,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DS hit the nail on the head. It was at an auction for a reason. Pros avoided it already,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Honestly, the only people that should buy cars at public auctions are people that know how to fix cars and salvage yards. You might get lucky and get one that isn't hard to fix, but majority of them are messed up or patched up in some way just to get it off the auction block. I've seen them roll odometers back and/or are full of head gasket sealer. All kinds of shady things go on at those public auctions. That's why you can get them for cheap.

If you have no experience diagnosing and repairing vehicles along with no money to spend on the car, you have no business being there.

That's water under the bridge now. Hopefully someone can figure this one out and it isn't too expensive. You may get lucky, but you really need to find a drive-ability tech that knows how to work Volvos or find a shop that specializes in them. From reading what you wrote it seems the mechanics your taken it to are changing parts and not diagnosing.