Shop Nissan Control Arms

1997 Nissan 200 SX sec, 99,000 miles
needs axle replacement and I am not able to get the drivers side axle out. The passenger side slid right out, but the driver's side to stuck. Any ideas? Downloaded a manual but the drive train/suspension chapter won't open on my computer.
Thanks!

It is only connected to the lower control arm.

I have a 2006 Nissan Altima S with a 2.5 liter engine.
What's been happening recently (maybe a couple weeks) is that my car jerks or sways from side to side everytime I accelerate and brake. It used to be if I was on a hard road or worse if there was a break in the road like the freeway (you know like the lane has a crack from repair for a few miles) but now its on flat surfaces and regular streets, I can feel the car jerk from side to side even if I'm just cruising and Im pretty comfy with speed but its a little scary since it feels like my tire is about to spin off the car or i'm going to lose control. The only thing that was touched within the last week and a half were my front brakes. My dad replaced them and he's been doing this for as long as I can remember so I dont think he would do it wrong plus he knows his way around an engine or two but since I know this can happen due to many suspension components I figured I'd ask. Also about two months ago I installed a new engine because my original one failed due to the catalytic converter:
FYI:
I just looked under the car and the control arm bushing is torn but Ive had a control arm bushing down to bits and pieces before and it never did any of what I feel now, its only the front end where I feel it.
Also my whole front suspension system is not even 6 months old, before my engine failed I had started replacing the old parts, after the new engine was in, I finished up the rest.
here's a list of all the parts I replaced both Suspension and Non Suspension
Rancho front struts
KYB rear shocks
New Lower Control Arms (both)
outer tie rod ends (both)
strut mounts
rack and pinion
axles
engine mounts
sway bar
brakes
flywheel
serpentine belt
O2 sensor (upstream/downstream) / Knock Sensor
bearing's
rear camber arm
and of course The Engine

I should have a new car so whats going on now???
I push gas jerks to left, I push brake I jerk right, I push nothing and cruise and it jerks left/right randomly.

The pics are from what I saw under my car, where is that from?
Thanks in advance for any help

I believe the "J" shaped hose is just a vent and doesn't go to anything.

Wow - what a list of stuff replaced up to the whole engine! Suspension, steering parts up the kazoo also. Seems more like this poor thing is being so abused you'll never win,


T

It probably wasn't abuse on the OPs part. Pretty common to see or read about the engines on those getting sandblasted because the manifold catalyst came apart and got sucked up into the engine. I would never buy anything with a catalyst that close to the engine.

Not blaming OP and sorry about that if all these problems were not neglect/abuse. There are zillions of these around me and haven't so much as touched one to put a fingerprint on any so can't know the layout and converter's spot in this game. I simply don't hear of wild problems with these cars with design flaws or plain cheap.


Hey - roads local to me really suk big time. Wild defects left for days without fixing or patching and car killers. Some of that is a surprise and some you know to crawl along so slow you don't wreck your vehicle.


If that's the case I really don't know of a vehicle that can take that long term without constant problems, Tom

They are good cars and the engine themselves are reliable, but the design of the catalyst to warm up faster to reduce emission quicker is what is taking the reliability factor and putting it down the toilet. Few months back we had a Nissan Pathfinder with a 4.0L come in with low engine power. Pre manifold cats came apart and clogged up the secondaries. We replaced the cats and the engine now blows smoke rings.

If you get a customer that drives around with a misfire on one of these that melts the pre cat, it is probably going to start burning oil. If that was my car, I'd fix what was broke and sell it. Then get something like a Honda or Toyota with a catalyst that isn't so close to the engine.

Control arm bushing wear can cause opposite pulls when accelerating/braking. If you can get any movement out of the control arm, its too much.

The pics look like grease thrown from the cv joint to me.

Im clueless on the pic of the vac lines?

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX 4 door Sedan 4cyl motor automatic trans 155,000 miles. I replaced the front suspension parts: struts, upper and lower control arms, lower ball joint, cv joint axles both sides, stabilizer bar end links, outside tie rod ends and new bearings.


I just want to make sure I have everything tightened right to avoid any issues. Can anyone give me the torx specs for the front end or more specifically the specs for the bolts at the top of the strut tower and the lower fork assembly the strut goes into. The upper control arm bolts, The lower control arm bolts, the stabilizer end links, the outside tie rod ends and the axle bolts?

Ummmmm after 4 front end collisions and 155,000 hard miles yes the front end you could say resembled something dropped off a cliff. The lower control arms bushings were shot and the ball joints were very loose and hand some clicking in them. The other rubber boots were dry rotted and starting to go and very loose as you can expert with 155,000 miles but thank your for the spell check and correction on torque versus torx ....completely an oversight on my part however an answer to the question would have been greatly appreciated.


Now the reason I want the specs was because most bolts have TORQUE specs as I am sure you are aware and after I ran into some trouble a while back with going through bearings on a NISSAN bc the axle bolts were not TORQUED right it was new to me as that was something I have never come across in the years I have of messing with cars but by far an expert such as yourself. So after changing everything just as a precaution before I take it in to have it aligned I figured I would torque it all down as it should be so a car genius like yourself could double recheck some of it when they play with the alignment. It my limited experience it seems that the suspensions on the newer cars require a little more precision then the old it feels right to me that was good enough for older cars.
So I guess I will ask at a Honda forum where the torque specs of the front end are often posted by the younger kids who upgrade the suspensions of Honda's as rice burners and don't mind providing information and participating in discussion opposed to the apparent cocky retired has beens know it all types that run this forum and ridicule those who dare ask a question from others who should know a little more about a topic.

I have a 1994 Nissan sentra, standard transmission. It has been a pretty good car with few repairs throughout the time I have had it. Today I noticed that when I made only a hard right turn there was a noise coming from somewhere near the trunk or wheel well on the driver rear side. I thought it was somthing in the trunk shifting when I turned, but upon emptying anything that I did have in my trunk I proceeded to take it for a ride with fast left and right hand turns. It is only upon turning right that the rubbing or shifting noise can be heard and it has me baffled. Any guesses? I cannot see anything rubbing underneath or by the wheel well.

Could possibly be a bad bearing or a bushing in the control arm. I would jack it up and wiggle and spin the wheel and see what it does. Also inspect the bushings for wear. Being as old as it is they are undoubtedly dry rotted and cracking at minimum.

a bit about the car's history, and things i've noticed:

i have a 95 nissan altima
when i first noticed a problem with the car, i was at a red light and it began to jar and mist a bit

i've noticed a lack in it's ability to accelerate properly. every so 20 mph it picks up, it has a pull to it- i have no other way to describe it
when i am at a stop my car shakes, and idles really bad (to the point where the person in the car next to me could notice)

the transmission has been replaced by the previous owner

once i was in traffic and heard a squealing sound and it began to idle tremendously ; i thought it was going to die

another time i was making a right turn and heard a popping sound
and a few raddelling noises, but these only happened once and i haven't heard any more

also, it would use a lot of power steering fluid, but as of my and the mechanics knowledge that is no longer a problem

the local mechanic who looked at it for me was for certain it was a suspension problem- something to do with the lower right control arm control bushin
which i just replaced- a nearly $300 part that did me little good(no popping sound when i turn )

it still mist, idles, and shakes when i come to a stop, there is no difference in the acceleration
and I'm wondering if maybe all it needs is a tune up, or spark plugs?
maybe something to do with the fuel injector or sensor?

it's driving me crazy, so please give me some advice before i spend $300 on another somewhat unnecessary part

well you would be the best judge as to wether or not it needs a tune up. when was the last time it had one??????

are there any check engine lights on in the dash?

seems like you had a whole bunch of problems together

the popping noise was indeed the suspension components
the screeching noise was probably your serpentine belt, and im guessing your power steering pump probably seized up since there is no fluid in it. Power steering leaks only stop leaking when all the fluid has leaked out. (try saying that 3x fast)

as far as the engine idle/accel problems
check airfilter
plugs
wires
fuel filter
engine/trans mounts (more for rough idle shaking the car)