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Genuine
2004 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-188578A    New

Qty:
$258.23
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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2004 - Nissan 350Z
Genuine
2004 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-188578A    New

Qty:
$294.73
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan 350Z
Genuine
2003 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-3C9290B    New

Qty:
$228.67
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2003 - Nissan 350Z
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$104.79
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: -07/31/2004
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan 350Z
Genuine
2004 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-3C9290B    New

Qty:
$228.67
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/31/2004
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Nissan 350Z
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$104.79
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2003 - Nissan 350Z
Dorman
2005 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-097FB78    New

Qty:
$109.16
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 08/01/2004-
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2005 - Nissan 350Z
Dorman
2006 Nissan 350Z Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-097FB78    New

Qty:
$109.16
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/o B/Jnt, w/Inner Bush
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2006 - Nissan 350Z
Dorman
2003 Nissan Murano Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1428219    New

Qty:
$119.92
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2003 - Nissan Murano
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$111.20
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 05/01/2003-
  • with Ball Joint, with Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Quest
Dorman
2004 Nissan Quest Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-58A1602    New

Qty:
$158.62
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 05/01/2003-
  • with Ball Joint, with Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Quest
Genuine
2004 Nissan Quest Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-4028BCB    New

Qty:
$288.03
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/01/2003-
  • with Ball Joint, with Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Quest
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$111.20
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2005 - Nissan Quest
Dorman
2005 Nissan Quest Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-58A1602    New

Qty:
$158.62
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Nissan Quest
Genuine
2005 Nissan Quest Suspension Control Arm Genuine

P311-4028BCB    New

Qty:
$288.03
Genuine Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Ball Joint, with Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Nissan Quest
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$39.89
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • with Ball Joint & Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Nissan Versa
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$38.44
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 09/01/2006-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Nissan Sentra
Dorman
2007 Nissan Sentra Suspension Control Arm Dorman

P311-1A98438    New

Qty:
$115.40
Dorman Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 09/01/2006-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Nissan Sentra
CTR
2007 Nissan Sentra Suspension Control Arm CTR

P311-3D14B28    New

Qty:
$50.22
CTR Suspension Control Arm
  • Production: 09/01/2006-
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings.
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Nissan Sentra
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$38.44
First Equipment Quality Suspension Control Arm
  • w/Ball Joint & Bushings
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Nissan Sentra

Latest Nissan Repair and Control Arm Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Nissan 200SX sec 2.0 can't remove dr side cv axle

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From mrc55 on 1997 Nissan 200SX sec 2.0 can't remove dr side cv axle

1997 Nissan 200 SX sec, 99,000 miles
needs axle replacement and I am not able to get the drivers side axle out. The passenger side slid right out, but the driver's side to stuck. Any ideas? Downloaded a manual but the drive train/suspension chapter won't open on my computer.
Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

It is locked in and has to be pried out with a very large pry bar.

Response From mrc55

Thank you! That worked. Now we are working on the lower ball joint. Top clip is off but ball joint not moving. Any ideas about how to get this out?

Response From Hammer Time

That may not come apart easily. Can't you remove the top bolts on the strut instead?

Response From Hammer Time

No, the top of the knuckle is bolted to the strut.


Response From mrc55 Top Rated Answer

It is only connected to the lower control arm.

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure it's fully seated and locked into the trans.

Response From mrc55

Thank you!! We got it! Here's hoping the installation is easier :)

Response From mrc55

I was afraid you might say something like that :) Ok, thanks!!

2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From g121390 on 2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

I have a 2006 Nissan Altima S with a 2.5 liter engine.
What's been happening recently (maybe a couple weeks) is that my car jerks or sways from side to side everytime I accelerate and brake. It used to be if I was on a hard road or worse if there was a break in the road like the freeway (you know like the lane has a crack from repair for a few miles) but now its on flat surfaces and regular streets, I can feel the car jerk from side to side even if I'm just cruising and Im pretty comfy with speed but its a little scary since it feels like my tire is about to spin off the car or i'm going to lose control. The only thing that was touched within the last week and a half were my front brakes. My dad replaced them and he's been doing this for as long as I can remember so I dont think he would do it wrong plus he knows his way around an engine or two but since I know this can happen due to many suspension components I figured I'd ask. Also about two months ago I installed a new engine because my original one failed due to the catalytic converter:
FYI:
I just looked under the car and the control arm bushing is torn but Ive had a control arm bushing down to bits and pieces before and it never did any of what I feel now, its only the front end where I feel it.
Also my whole front suspension system is not even 6 months old, before my engine failed I had started replacing the old parts, after the new engine was in, I finished up the rest.
here's a list of all the parts I replaced both Suspension and Non Suspension
Rancho front struts
KYB rear shocks
New Lower Control Arms (both)
outer tie rod ends (both)
strut mounts
rack and pinion
axles
engine mounts
sway bar
brakes
flywheel
serpentine belt
O2 sensor (upstream/downstream) / Knock Sensor
bearing's
rear camber arm
and of course The Engine

I should have a new car so whats going on now???
I push gas jerks to left, I push brake I jerk right, I push nothing and cruise and it jerks left/right randomly.

The pics are from what I saw under my car, where is that from?
Thanks in advance for any help



Response From Hammer Time

I believe the "J" shaped hose is just a vent and doesn't go to anything.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - what a list of stuff replaced up to the whole engine! Suspension, steering parts up the kazoo also. Seems more like this poor thing is being so abused you'll never win,


T

Response From Discretesignals

It probably wasn't abuse on the OPs part. Pretty common to see or read about the engines on those getting sandblasted because the manifold catalyst came apart and got sucked up into the engine. I would never buy anything with a catalyst that close to the engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Not blaming OP and sorry about that if all these problems were not neglect/abuse. There are zillions of these around me and haven't so much as touched one to put a fingerprint on any so can't know the layout and converter's spot in this game. I simply don't hear of wild problems with these cars with design flaws or plain cheap.


Hey - roads local to me really suk big time. Wild defects left for days without fixing or patching and car killers. Some of that is a surprise and some you know to crawl along so slow you don't wreck your vehicle.


If that's the case I really don't know of a vehicle that can take that long term without constant problems, Tom

Response From Discretesignals

They are good cars and the engine themselves are reliable, but the design of the catalyst to warm up faster to reduce emission quicker is what is taking the reliability factor and putting it down the toilet. Few months back we had a Nissan Pathfinder with a 4.0L come in with low engine power. Pre manifold cats came apart and clogged up the secondaries. We replaced the cats and the engine now blows smoke rings.

If you get a customer that drives around with a misfire on one of these that melts the pre cat, it is probably going to start burning oil. If that was my car, I'd fix what was broke and sell it. Then get something like a Honda or Toyota with a catalyst that isn't so close to the engine.


Response From GC

Control arm bushing wear can cause opposite pulls when accelerating/braking. If you can get any movement out of the control arm, its too much.

The pics look like grease thrown from the cv joint to me.

Im clueless on the pic of the vac lines?

2006 Honda Accord EX front suspension torx specs

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From cmb7684 on 2006 Honda Accord EX front suspension torx specs

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX 4 door Sedan 4cyl motor automatic trans 155,000 miles. I replaced the front suspension parts: struts, upper and lower control arms, lower ball joint, cv joint axles both sides, stabilizer bar end links, outside tie rod ends and new bearings.


I just want to make sure I have everything tightened right to avoid any issues. Can anyone give me the torx specs for the front end or more specifically the specs for the bolts at the top of the strut tower and the lower fork assembly the strut goes into. The upper control arm bolts, The lower control arm bolts, the stabilizer end links, the outside tie rod ends and the axle bolts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What on earth have you done to this poor car to need all that and why do you think you do? Seems like it was dropped off a cliff.


It's spelled "torque" -- Torx is a brand name of a type of fastener just FYI. Most of what you mentioned if you don't have a feel for the right or appropriate torque you probably shouldn't be messing with it sorry to say.


I don't have easy listing for exact suggested specs for each item you mentioned one by one. I also can't just say "tight enough" as that doesn't give you a # to follow.


Perhaps you should buy the AllData.com DIY manual for this car if you are doing this much stuff but still wonder why you need all that at once!


Some items you only tighten when weight is on wheels or pointing steering direct ahead, other's with cotter pins this way and simple stabilizer pins you watch the rubber compress. You should just know that or IMO not be doing this stuff or have proper help with you. I couldn't explain what takes years of experience after training/schools.


When torque is critical most times the part comes with that information,
T

Response From cmb7684 Top Rated Answer

Ummmmm after 4 front end collisions and 155,000 hard miles yes the front end you could say resembled something dropped off a cliff. The lower control arms bushings were shot and the ball joints were very loose and hand some clicking in them. The other rubber boots were dry rotted and starting to go and very loose as you can expert with 155,000 miles but thank your for the spell check and correction on torque versus torx ....completely an oversight on my part however an answer to the question would have been greatly appreciated.


Now the reason I want the specs was because most bolts have TORQUE specs as I am sure you are aware and after I ran into some trouble a while back with going through bearings on a NISSAN bc the axle bolts were not TORQUED right it was new to me as that was something I have never come across in the years I have of messing with cars but by far an expert such as yourself. So after changing everything just as a precaution before I take it in to have it aligned I figured I would torque it all down as it should be so a car genius like yourself could double recheck some of it when they play with the alignment. It my limited experience it seems that the suspensions on the newer cars require a little more precision then the old it feels right to me that was good enough for older cars.
So I guess I will ask at a Honda forum where the torque specs of the front end are often posted by the younger kids who upgrade the suspensions of Honda's as rice burners and don't mind providing information and participating in discussion opposed to the apparent cocky retired has beens know it all types that run this forum and ridicule those who dare ask a question from others who should know a little more about a topic.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Relax. It's still a lot of stuff all at once to be noticing now with apparently no checking along the way of these items ALL of which are total safety items. Neglect of these or checking has resulted in mandatory vehicle inspections to include all safety items are in good shape for you, your passengers and for anyone else you share roads with such that an accident doesn't occur over something that could or should have been known long before. Stuff still happens.


Torque on fasteners anywhere is known and put to #s and tools to show you have reached that #. Many items of marginal importance are not going to specify without looking them up one by one. I could find a page of torque specs for front end steering and suspension parts all at once to post for you. I'm sure one exists somewhere for this car but probably a subscription for a year for just this car. One common one I mentioned and link to its home page is..... http://www.alldatadiy.com/


Once there you can select a sample what you can expect. Here's one for just what marked bolts can take not specific to each item but rather a rating for just bolts...............

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~G~C45827~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/138181779/138629620/138629625/138629629/34853741/34869961/34869963/165252571/156082788/153621061
That is one of their sample pages of mega 100s. I can't purchase the one (I think $27.50US) for just your car and do things here for free for you and others.
First - does anything on that chart even make any sense to you? That's the easy version or DIY (do it yourself) data.
Do you have the tools that tell you when you reach a specification if one is important enough to be exact? Many things you just know by feel for assorted things.
*************************************
You would select one item at a time and it would list it out especially drivetrain anything and anything that hold or suspends a vehicle.
*************************
It's a valid question there's no one stop way for me anyway to answer all at once. Would be easier to just go to you or you come to me and do it than find all that all at once. 90% of which with a little experience you don't need to look up at all.
**********************
Silly example of life things would be how tight measured in a # would you say you tighten the cap on a screw top container of milk for example? See if you can find that. Too tight you would wreck a cap and too lose it could leak and that's just MILK!
***********************
A lot of learning comes from breaking something once then you pay attention the next time or get hands on help as becoming experienced by yourself and alone would be near impossible or at least impractical. You go to tech schools when you want to do tons more on a vehicle THEN go do it for yourself or for a job if you wanted to do that.
***************************That process never changed for learning things in general. Ex: See something done, get help doing that done, then when you can show another person how to get it done you have learned how to do it.
*************************************
The initial problem as I already mentioned is how did all those things get bad without noticing them along the way. That was neglect by you or for those who fixed accidents were not checking that the vehicle was ready to be back on the road but something failed out of the gate.
I did find one important torque specification for you and could be incorrect too. How tight do you make the lug nuts when you put a wheel back on? If anything is important that is too and bet that info isn't posted on the nuts to the wheel.
BTW it showed "final torque of 80 ft/lbs. That already isn't clear as it suggests you know when it's final and didn't say what that meant.
I see tire places just go all crazy to be fast and never look up or set wheel's fastener's to spec yet they make tools for that too.
Fortunately most even using air tools without a spec just get them right or right enough. It's hard to know or explain each part of everything on everything.
Such is life. You get help and taught many things,
T

rough noise near trunk with hard turn

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From kjohns00 on rough noise near trunk with hard turn

I have a 1994 Nissan sentra, standard transmission. It has been a pretty good car with few repairs throughout the time I have had it. Today I noticed that when I made only a hard right turn there was a noise coming from somewhere near the trunk or wheel well on the driver rear side. I thought it was somthing in the trunk shifting when I turned, but upon emptying anything that I did have in my trunk I proceeded to take it for a ride with fast left and right hand turns. It is only upon turning right that the rubbing or shifting noise can be heard and it has me baffled. Any guesses? I cannot see anything rubbing underneath or by the wheel well.

Response From Nathan47 Top Rated Answer

Could possibly be a bad bearing or a bushing in the control arm. I would jack it up and wiggle and spin the wheel and see what it does. Also inspect the bushings for wear. Being as old as it is they are undoubtedly dry rotted and cracking at minimum.

95 nissan idleing and acceleration problem

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 95 nissan idleing and acceleration problem

a bit about the car's history, and things i've noticed:

i have a 95 nissan altima
when i first noticed a problem with the car, i was at a red light and it began to jar and mist a bit

i've noticed a lack in it's ability to accelerate properly. every so 20 mph it picks up, it has a pull to it- i have no other way to describe it
when i am at a stop my car shakes, and idles really bad (to the point where the person in the car next to me could notice)

the transmission has been replaced by the previous owner

once i was in traffic and heard a squealing sound and it began to idle tremendously ; i thought it was going to die

another time i was making a right turn and heard a popping sound
and a few raddelling noises, but these only happened once and i haven't heard any more

also, it would use a lot of power steering fluid, but as of my and the mechanics knowledge that is no longer a problem

the local mechanic who looked at it for me was for certain it was a suspension problem- something to do with the lower right control arm control bushin
which i just replaced- a nearly $300 part that did me little good(no popping sound when i turn )

it still mist, idles, and shakes when i come to a stop, there is no difference in the acceleration
and I'm wondering if maybe all it needs is a tune up, or spark plugs?
maybe something to do with the fuel injector or sensor?

it's driving me crazy, so please give me some advice before i spend $300 on another somewhat unnecessary part

Response From Guest

I had the same situation wich caused me to fail the Smog test. High idle on neutral sounded like crap.
I was told to replace the CAT the EGR redo the pistons and so on...
After some research I run my car toburn all of the fuel in the tank.
REFUELED with PREMIUM as i had previously used REGULAR , guess what? The idle drop to a perfect
silent and smooth Two degrees down, i drove to the
Test and Passed it. Best of luck.

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

well you would be the best judge as to wether or not it needs a tune up. when was the last time it had one??????

are there any check engine lights on in the dash?

seems like you had a whole bunch of problems together

the popping noise was indeed the suspension components
the screeching noise was probably your serpentine belt, and im guessing your power steering pump probably seized up since there is no fluid in it. Power steering leaks only stop leaking when all the fluid has leaked out. (try saying that 3x fast)

as far as the engine idle/accel problems
check airfilter
plugs
wires
fuel filter
engine/trans mounts (more for rough idle shaking the car)

Response From Guest

thanks so much for your reply
honestly i have no idea when the car last had a tune up or even an oil change, i haven't had but a few weeks
another person mentioned about checking for a puddle of oil under the distributor;the oil looks fine and hardly uses any at all, i've seen no "puddles"
but i guess the smartest thing would be to have all of the basics checked and go from there
which i should have done in the first place, i'll admit.
thanks again