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LuK
2011 Ram 2500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L LuK

P311-0889C15    05-124  New

MU72179-1 , 53301406 , 1105124 , 05-124 , 6323156000

Qty:
$318.41
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • ; LuK Global Number 632 3156 000
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Diameter: 14-1/4"
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Clutch Disc Spline Quantity: 10
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-3/8"
    • Number of clutch disc springs: 4
    • Pressure Plate Type: Coil Spring
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 2500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
LuK
2013 Ram 2500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L LuK

P311-2833039    05-182  New

1105182 , 6000157000

Qty:
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • ; LuK Global Number 600 0157 000 Flywheel included
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Diameter: 14-1/4"
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Clutch Disc Spline Quantity: 10
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-3/8"
    • Number of clutch disc springs: 4
    • Pressure Plate Type: Coil Spring
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 2500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
LuK
2017 Ram 2500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L LuK

P311-1823890    05-184  New

6322164000 , 1105184

Qty:
$630.66
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • ; LuK Global Number 632 2164 000 Flywheel not included LuK designed Dual Mass to Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit This RepSet must only be used with Luk manufactured flywheel LFW184.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Diameter: 14-1/4"
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Clutch Disc Spline Quantity: 10
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-3/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Coil Spring
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ram 2500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
LuK
2016 Ram 2500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L LuK

P311-0E06087    05-185  New

6010045000 , 1105185

Qty:
$721.65
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • ; LuK Global Number 601 0045 000 Flywheel included LuK designed Dual Mass to Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit Solid Flywheel Option Refer to LB232 concerning Dodge Ram DMF to Solid Flywheel Conversion
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Diameter: 14-1/4"
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Clutch Disc Spline Quantity: 10
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 12-9/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-3/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Coil Spring
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Ram 2500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Rhino Pac
2015 Ram 3500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-038D43F    05-224-2FW  New

Qty:
$492.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • ; Solid Flywheel Conversion;Kit Includes Flywheel; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram 3500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Rhino Pac
2012 Ram 3500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Rhino Pac - PERFORMANCE PLUS

P311-52C22D2    05-224SR200  New

Qty:
$467.54
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • ; Kevlar Disc; Solid Flywheel Conversion; Flywheel Spec: FLAT; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • PERFORMANCE PLUS
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 3500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Rhino Pac
2012 Ram 3500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-1976083    05-124  New

Qty:
$331.37
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • ; "Mercedes Transmission, 1-3/8 x 10T Spline; DMF;Use with Dual Mass Flywheel Only"
  • OE PLUS
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 3500 Turbocharged L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Rhino Pac
2013 Ram 4500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-1976083    05-124  New

Qty:
$331.37
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • OE PLUS
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 4500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Rhino Pac
2012 Ram 5500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-1976083    05-124  New

Qty:
$331.37
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • ; Solid Flywheel Conversion
  • OE PLUS
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 5500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Valeo
2011 Ram 4500 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 6.7L Valeo - OE Replacement Kit

P311-41C6832    53301402  New

05101SR300 , L05101 , 200.67013 , K7027901 , 5101 , CRK1004 , 381467 , 5074 , 200.67012 , MU20231 , NU31581 , 05-101 , MU721791

Qty:
$296.51
Valeo Clutch Kit
  • Clutch Kit for Dodge Ram 2500 2001-2009
  • ; Disc Size: 13 x 1 3/8 x 10 Service Kit for 53301405
  • OE Replacement Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Contains Chemicals Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer, Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm.
  • Valeo Premium Clutch kits are engineered using only the highest quality components and latest technology for exceptional precision and reliability.
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 4500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -

Latest Ram Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Went through 3 throwout bearings in 1 month/ 2003 Dodge Ram 2500

Showing 7 out of 12 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From gr8white on Went through 3 throwout bearings in 1 month/ 2003 Dodge Ram 2500

My throw out bearing went in my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 manual long bed 2 wheel drive. I had it replaced by a friend and that one went in the next 200 miles. I then replaced it with another and that one went in 40 miles. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? It is killing me financially!

Response From Discretesignals

Engine size? Hydraulic clutch system is going to take up the free play

What happened to the original clutch release bearing? Was a clutch job done on this?

Response From gr8white

Engine size? Hydraulic clutch system is going to take up the free play

What happened to the original clutch release bearing? Was a clutch job done on this?

This is a 5.7 Liter Hemi. I am pulling a 13k Lb 5th wheel across the country. I bought the truck at a dealership a year ago and they replaced the tranny with a Junk Yard tranny. almost 1 year later the throw out bearing went. 3 weeks ago myself and a friend put in a high performance clutch kit with a new throwout bearing and all. That throwout bearing went in 2 weeks. Friday night we ripped the tranny apart again and put in a new throwout bearing. None of these parts were OEM which may have been a mistake. 40 miles after putting the new bearing in it went again. Im going broke here and dont know what to do.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Could be installation error, the front bearing support is worn out causing the bearing to bind or cock, and/or the aftermarket performance clutch system may have caused a difference in tolerances that is putting too much load on the bearing which results in it overheating. I'd say go back to the OEM set up and be sure to follow the manufacture's service procedures.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Something is all wrong IMO.
/
OK - Used trans when you bought it lasted a year for the record. Nothing since is lasting apparently so ask what type of failure do you find with the release bearing? Noise and a roughness when pressure applied then feel that when it's in your hands to replace it?
Not sure I understand the NO FREE PLAY thing/comment. None are supposed to "ride" on pressure plate and if it did I still can't see why it would wear out the bearing so fast - 200 miles then 40 miles!
If you did "ride" the clutch and said not I would think clutch disc itself would take the hit and wear or if it can "self ride" by lack of free play. Not certain but when motor mounts allow too much motion (said quite a load pulled) some will lose that free play during load times which is why it's there is less free play under load.


OK: It's not behaving and think somehow super high heat or perhaps wobble of trans input shaft to pilot bearing is wildly off/worn or improper fit somehow by used trans?
Release bearing really isn't doing a thing when pedal isn't pressed or shouldn't be.
Didn't see any mention of machining flywheel - if worn from slipping would think the clutch disc would show heat damage from slipping more than the bearing.
There has to be some mis-match of parts or improper installation none I can think of would cause the bearing to fail so fast without some wild bad feel right away when put back together.


1. I wouldn't have use some HP clutch and consider going back to OE
2. Measure pilot bearing I.D. and O.D. of trans input shaft. Usually a smear of grease used for those or noise possible?
3. Evidence of the high heat if so?
4. Motor and trans support mounts checked.


Has to be some improper installation or part issue IMO for this trouble so fast. May be the wrong used trans from back when causing something but can't think of how that worked for a year?


My own observations with clutch issues is usually tech allowing trans to hang on input shaft before snugging up trans or some a mess with oil fast from like a rear main seal of engine soaking friction parts badly.


Unless just inferior parts this isn't adding up too well yet to me,


T

Response From Discretesignals


Not sure I understand the NO FREE PLAY thing/comment. None are supposed to "ride" on pressure plate and if it did I still can't see why it would wear out the bearing so fast - 200 miles then 40 miles!

I don't think that is entirely true. When you install a slave cylinder its plunger is compressed against the fork as you put it on. And if you take it back off the plunger extends due to internal spring pressure. The pressure is pushing the bearing against the pressure plate fingers.

The bearings they use today are designed to be constantly running. The hydraulic system takes up the freeplay as the clutch wears and there is slight preload put on the bearing as it is touching the pressure plate fingers. Vehicles with manual linkage and cables have adjustment you can make to adjust the freeplay that still puts the bearing into a preloaded state against the pressure plate.

Infact, sometimes chirping sounds with the clutch pedal out while the engine is running are caused by a faulty slave cylinder.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I get the concept DS with ability for no play much like disc brake pistons close and do almost to actually touch but no real force to make it fail like this? In that case the brake would nudge or back off only enough via a square "O" ring if you will torqueing ever so little and returning.


So - What makes a bearing fail? To me, overloaded, heat enough to lose its "hardened" properties. Bad to begin with in the cards too. Does or is it able to slide on input shaft? IDK - I'd think you'd notice a problem instantly if conditions harsh enough to fail so fast.
Guess I'd have to see what happened to what parts AFTER the failure. Something tells me there was something wrong back when a junkyard trans was used?


More questions than answers for this at this point, T

Response From Discretesignals

Without being there to see what state everything was in when the bearing was installed or to even see how the bearing failed, your guess is good as mine, Tom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm running out of idea on this. Now some questions:


*Who is declaring this is a release bearing problem at all?
*Once said a flywheel could make one go bad? After a year??
*Once in your hands there shouldn't be any question if the bearing is bad or not and if not sure it might take another opinion on this.


What and when does this express symptoms such as just when clutch pedal pushed or other times too? If you or friend have left this trans hanging while fastening it up it just might have harmed input shaft to this trans.


All guesses that I think would be clear if this was in front of any of us.


One more - I'm really taken with a 40 mile failure like this. No joke, only see this and most with bearing that are made in China. Not blaming a place just that the reputation of their bearings wherever used lacks sadly. When duplicate real issues happen with a part when there's no other good reason choose another brand or even pay for a dealer part,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Does your clutch pedal have a couple inches of free play at the top?

You don't drive with your foot resting on it do you?

Response From gr8white

Hi,

I dont leave my foot on the clutch. There is no play at the top. Someone said that if the flywheel isnt torqued correctly that it can cause the throwout bearing to go bad quick. But I have been through 2 bearings in the last few weeks.

Response From Hammer Time

There isn't supposed to be any contact with the throw out bearing when your foot is off the clutch but if you have no free play, something is wrong, possibly an adjustment.

98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD Hydraulic clutch

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From runningneo on 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD Hydraulic clutch

My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Have you looked to see if the slave piston is actually travelling outward? If your throwout bearing has come apart it won't disengage the clutch and would not feel like there was pressure in the pedal.

If you did somehow suck some air into the master getting it low, you will need to start over with the bench bleed to get it out. Check the slave travel first.

Response From runningneo

After replacing the MC, I was hearing the SC piston moving when my friend was pumping the pedal. Both parts are new. After getting some pedal, I lost all that I had gained when the reservoir got too low... my mistake.

Can't get power to A/C clutch

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Watercooled on Can't get power to A/C clutch

2001 Dodge Cargo Van 2500
318 V-8
165,000 miles

The A/C was fine yesterday. Today the clutch will not engage. There is no power going to the wire that operates the clutch. The 20 A fuse is good and power is going through it. The evaporator fan and the other controls work normally. The clutch engages when power is applied directly to it, so I say it is good. There is 80 pounds of pressure in the system. I checked the low pressure and high pressure switches. They both show continuity. I shorted around both switches and still no power, no clutch.

My mechanic checked with the computer. He said it recognized the call for cool, but did not see the delivery of power to the clutch. I believe he said there is a relay and the relay is functioning. We will try again in the morning. I am doing some homework tonight.

I have traced as much wire as I can trace. The wire carrying power from the fuse block is red with a yellow stripe. I have no idea where it goes. It is not present at the A/C switches in the console. If there are any other controls that would prevent power from reaching the clutch, I am not aware of them. I see no burning, shorting, cutting, abrading, or trauma to any wires anywhere under the dash or in the engine compartment.

Is there a diagram? Is the relay bad? Is there even a relay?

Response From Discretesignals

Tell your mechanic to do an ATM test with his/her scan tool. He/she should know this if they work on vehicles for a living. If he/she has a scan tool that can perform that function, he/she can find out which side of the system to focus on. The ATM test will activate relays on and off regardless of the input logic to the PCM from the switches and request. The AC clutch relay is in the power distribution center under the hood.

Curious, but why are you finding out answers for your mechanic?

Response From Watercooled

I am finding our for myself. I checked out what I could before I took the VAN to him. It was late, he was pressed, I suggested we try it again in the morning.

Response From Watercooled

Well, now I have a diagram. Still figuring out how to read it. I guess the numbers are printed on the actual wires? I will pass on tracing invisible wires
The red wire with the yellow stripe comes from the fuse in the fuse block.
I don't see on the diagram where there is a fuse for the A/C circuit. But I do see several fuses inline in the A/C circuit. My van has a 20 A fuse labeled "A/C Clutch". The red wire with the yellow stripe comes from the fuse and goes into a bundle that goes into a void under the dash.
We will see what the ATM reveals.

Response From Discretesignals

Chrysler's ATM test is a great tool because you can eliminate the PCM's output driver, wiring to the relay, the relay itself, the wiring from the relay to the clutch, and the powers and grounds that are used by the relay and the clutch coil without even breaking out a volt meter. If you can actuate the clutch doing an ATM test with the scan tool, then focus on the input side of the PCM. The input side includes the switches and controls, but it also includes the PCM's internal logic which is not shown in the wiring schematic.

It is important to think about what the PCM needs in order to activate the clutch relay. One thing that you cannot really get from a wiring schematic is what type of logic the PCM uses to decide to turn the ac on. You do know the PCM needs to see a certain voltage from the switches, but there are other logical inputs that are not shown; i.e: engine rpm, tps voltage, ect voltage, system voltage, ect. Most of the time knowledge of the internal logic comes from reading the theory and operation of the system or experience. Got plenty of both..lol.

Response From Hammer Time

Looks like you were right........... (as usual)

Lets try this again




Response From Watercooled

OK. I am in a better position now. Yes it’s true – You can buy a scan tool but you can’t buy experience. This will be solved this morning at the mechanic’s, I’m sure. We will see how well he knows his tool. This all started after he used the scan tool to find the cause of a misfire, which was one injector not getting power. A critter had chewed the wire in two! After that I had warning lights that weren't there before. He said the code needed to be reset, but the computer wasn't letting him in. Then it was late and he was pressed and I left. After chatting with you guys, I am convinced the PCM needs to get right before my A/C will work. Maybe a re-boot? The rest of the system is probably fine.



If you are still interested I would like to figure some things out. I think I can read this diagram, but I don’t recognize some of these symbols and some of the terminology. Is there a legend that identifies these symbols? I also don’t know which direction the DC current travels. Positive to Negative, or vice versa?


In the A/C clutch relay I see a coil, and a rectangle with a slash through it. Must be a solenoid. Then in the A/C clutch itself, where a coil would be, I see the arrows. Then the rectangle again. What are the arrows?


Then above the clutch relay, there is a dotted line connecting the RD/YL wire to the RD/DG wire. Does the dashed line indicate that they both use the same plastic connector?


Then above that, in Joint Connector #3 there is the horizontal line with an arrow point. That symbol is in other places also.


What is a Joint Connector? What do you call those plastic things that - for example - connect the two wires at the compressor? What are those "Y" and "Inverted Y" symbols at the end of the wires?

I appreciate the valuable input.

Response From Hammer Time






Response From Watercooled

Ok, Hammer Time -- Those two pages are a major help. Along with some other sites I am beginning to see a bigger picture.

My mechanic is turning this case over to his boss, who is not available until tomorrow, Friday 22nd. I just have to wait and see if Big Boss can start at the top and work his way through. In the meantime I will continue to study this. It's fascinating. If you take the PCM out of the equation, it becomes a simple circuit. If I just had that little gadget that allows you to read the pins on the clutch relay ...

Response From Hammer Time

The PCM always has to control the relay because it monitors other inputs before it makes a decision to turn the relay on.

Response From kev2

Codes- a malfunction in a system MAY cause the PCM (logic) to restrict AC.... ie a code for temp sensor.
Relay - why not swap with another relay of same type - often we will swap in something like "horn" just for testing.
Relays sometimes will have the cavity numbers printed on them- 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a- OR google "automotive relay pin out"

Response From kev2

Why not share ALL the codes and issues - before reflashing / rebooting and blaming the PCM...
A somewhat simple circuit to need 11 post, multiple wiring diagrams and suggestions.

Response From Watercooled


Why not share ALL the codes and issues - before reflashing / rebooting and blaming the PCM...
A somewhat simple circuit to need 11 post, multiple wiring diagrams and suggestions.

kev2 -- I don't have any codes to share, and I don't know what reflashing is. Maybe I am in the wrong forum, and this is only for professionals.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote on post #10 ">>A critter had chewed the wire in two!"
Aren't then special? Just a comment on damage like that by critters. You may not know if there's lots more messing you all up so look. Anything possible and a good reason for no power to A/C clutch. Pretty sure the Mopars will default to shut down clutch with assorted problems for real and bad info on the list. What that might have done to ECM unknown but doesn't sound so great to me.
So. In times when damage like that found I find they like hood insulation and somehow wires are tasty but not so much hard plastic encased things like a relay or other items. It will happen again just as fast if not tended to.
Gotta get thru this and stop it so some suggestions.
Virtually ALL vehicles that had this problem were parked in the same spot even daily or stored - some horror shows.
What can help. Park backed in or forward from what you were doing! Dryer softener sheets help. Mothballs no longer made of same product but would try some hanging in harmless places anyway.
IDK your situation but I use rat poison in bags as two stored vehicles are always out of pets or children's reach said not to kill non rodents rather make then throw up - rodents can't throw up - no kidding, so it harms them and may not kill them but they go away.
Ages ago did a thread on this and found those silent noise things were not conclusive and annoyed other things?
You'll never win at assorted problems if not rid of the critters. Call for an exterminator if needed.
They have to go,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Those diagrams don't match what I have.

Response From Hammer Time

That's an '01 2500 Van with a 5.2. straight from Alldata


2001 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 2500 Truck 2WD V8-5.2L VIN Y
Vehicle » Heating and Air Conditioning » Diagrams » Electrical Diagrams

  • Electrical Diagrams

  • Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    2001 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 2500 Truck 2WD V8-5.2L VIN Y


    It's a van not a truck that the OP has. I believe those diagrams are for a truck.

    1989 dodge ram d100 wont start

    Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
    Question From Guest on 1989 dodge ram d100 wont start

    i have a 1989 dodge ram d100 with a 318 cu.in. v8.
    on 3 or 4 seperate occasions i tried to start it and nothing happened. first i got a click, then nothing. and then it would start again a few minutes later. this last time it didnt start again. i checked the starter, fuses, wires, and tried to jump it. nothing works. what else could be wrong?

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

    At first glance, this sounds like a poor connection problem. Remove the negative battery cable first, then the positive. Inspect and clean both. Reconnect in reverse order. You could have a neutral safety switch (if automatic) or a clutch inhibitor switch problem, but uncommon. While you have the battery cables disconnected from the battery, check the connection at the starter and the ground connection at the engine block.

    Response From Guest

    i wiggled the ground cable to the engine block and it made a noise, i turned the key and it clicked. then nothing. i removed and cleaned, but still nothing.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    All connection need be right - only as good as the weakest link line a chain,

    T

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Remove that bolt, clean both the cable and the block, and reinstall. You've got a poor connection, somewhere.

    Response From Guest

    i cleaned the post and connection, and now it just clicks, which is better than before. i tried to jump it again, and still only clicks. could it be the alternator?

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Can you tell where the 'click' is coming from? The starter? Sounds like either poor connections or low battery voltage.
    If you are certain that all of your connections are good, and clean, should have the battery charged (if low) and tested. An alternator won't keep it from starting. If the connections were poor, the alternator may not have been able to keep the battery charged. You can try, lightly, tapping on the starter while trying to start. It's possible that we're fighting a bad starter?

    Response From Guest

    i had the starter tested and it passed, i was going to test the alternator next

    Response From kemptw

    my 1988 dodge D-100 is doing the same thing. I have been wondering about the ignition switch on it that is above the stearing column below the dash. This has to do with the 3 way starting if the key switch......................

    Please advise................................

    Walt

    latedate01@msn.com

    Response From Hammer Time

    kemptw

    This thread is almost 6 months old. You need to start a question of your own.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Again, the alternator WILL NOT keep the engine from cranking. A low, or sulphated, battery WILL. A battery can be fully charged and still not have the capability of cranking the engine, which requires a lot of amperage. Voltage is important, of course, but amperage is critical. With that said, however, a faulty alternator can overcharge a battery which can kill the battery. A bad battery can kill an alternator by making it over work. If you haven't already done so, have the battery charged fully and load tested. Forget the alternator at this point. We've got to get the engine cranking, first.
    I hate to even suggest this, but is it possible that the engine is seized?