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1993 Plymouth Sundace vibration issue

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Guest on 1993 Plymouth Sundace vibration issue

I have a question about a possible tire or brake rotor issue. I noticed a few weeks ago that while driving on the highway my 1993 Plymouth Sundace started vibrating quite roughly. My first thought was maybe I had a tire going down. Upon inspecting it, I noticed that the front passenger tire was very hot to the point where it was melting the wheel cover. Could this be a tire, rotor, or brake issue?

Response From Hammer Time

That would be a brake that's not releasing correctly. I would expect you should be experiencing some pulling when driving to one direction and the opposite direct when braking. This could be a frozen brake caliper, bad brake hose or other brake issues. it needs to be inspected right away without driving it any more.

Response From Guest

I dont think so because I just had the brake pads and calipers replaced within the last 2 weeks or so.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

And you think that eliminates the possibility? That makes it even more likely.

1997 Plymouth Gran Voyager, 3.3 Engine, 190K miles, brake light problem

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tampamike on 1997 Plymouth Gran Voyager, 3.3 Engine, 190K miles, brake light problem

Third brake light works, turn signals work in main taillights, but brake lights don't work in main light assy's. What could that be?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The same wire that feeds the high mount light also feeds the lower brake lights so you need to find the splice back there and see where the power is being lost.
The wire is white with tan.

Response From tampamike

I appreciate the help, but why do the turn signals work and the brake lights don't? They're the same filament in the bulb. Is there something that cycles the brake light bulb as the turn signal switches?

Response From Hammer Time

I appreciate the help, but why do the turn signals work and the brake lights don't? They're the same filament in the bulb.

Not according to the wiring diagram I looked at. They are independent bulbs.

Response From tampamike

Thank you very much. I got some bad advice & replaced the wrong bulbs, which, it appears, were fine. I should have replaced the upper ones.
I appreciate the help very much.

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome

Question closed now as solved.

Response From kev2

- a dual filiment bulb 1157 - wht/tan wire to tail lamp assy is brake lgt

96 plymouth voyager brake problem

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From demismama on 96 plymouth voyager brake problem

96 plymouth voyager replaced the brakes and bled the front brakes but when turned the car on the brakes went soft and right to the floor
3.3ltr engine
127000 miles

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

demismama; There are only a couple of reasons that the pedal will go to the floor. 1) Fluid leak, 2) Master Cylinder.
If this wasn't doing this before (as in poor rear brake adjustment) it is possible that you've ruptured the master cylinder during bleeding. The master cylinder has a piston with two seals (cups). If the secondary cup ruptures, it will leak fluid out of the back of the cylinder, into the booster. You may not notice 'a leak' until the master starts getting low as the fluid will go into the booster. If the primary cup leaks, it will by-pass pressure, internally, and you'll get a sinking pedal. Great care must be taken when bleeding brakes. Over time, debris will build up behind the primary cup. During the bleeding process, if the brake pedal is depressed further than what was 'normal', this debris can damage the primary cup and cause the problem that you are experiencing. Check the rear brake adjustment. If okay, try gravity bleeding. If those two procedures don't correct the problem, you'll probably have to replace the master cylinder. The master cyl. can be 'pre-bled' prior to installing, so that you don't have to go through the whole process agian.

Response From demismama Top Rated Answer

Thank you so much for your response.
We did not change the back brakes, only the front. We bled the front brakes and were told to bleed the back ones too but we don't know how to do that, and never did it before with any other vehicle. The pressure was there, and when starting the brake pedal went right to the floor but in second and third applications seemed to stop the car. The pressure seems to come and go. I am not even sure if I can explain it any other way. We will recheck everything we have done in the morning.
Again, thank you so much.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

demismama; The rear brake condition and adjustment will directly affect the brake pedal height. If the rear brakes need to be replaced, or at least adjusted, you need to do that, first. (I'm assuming that they are drum brakes in the rear). The front disc brakes are not 'adjustable'. The pistons must be depressed, back into the calipers, to accept the new pads. When doing so, the brake bleeder on the caliper should be opened so as not to 'push' old, dirty, fluid backwards thru the ABS system and into the master cylinder. If the master cylinder was allowed to go empty during the brake replacement, chances are that you will need to bleed the whole system, front and rear. Starting with a master cylinder full of new brake fluid, open the RR bleeder. While keeping the master cylinder full, allow the fluid to flow thru the bleeder until it is nice and clean, no air bubbles. Then, move to the LR and do the same. Then, the RF. Then, the LF. If this does not solve your problem, it would seem that the master cylinder primary cup has been damaged. When bleeding brakes, if someone pushes the brake pedal to the floor while bleeding, this can happen quite easily. Assuming the rear brakes are adjusted and all of the air is out of the system: If you can pump the pedal a couple of times and have a good pedal, Bad master cylinder. If you have a good pedal, with your foot on the brake, put in gear, and the pedal starts creeping towards the floor, Bad master cylinder (assuming no hydraulic leaks).
Now, with all that said, let me know if the rear brakes are disc. If so, then we need to do a little more. (try applying the parking brake while pumping the brake pedal to see if that helps)

plymouth breeze abs light

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gunnlino on plymouth breeze abs light

'97 plymouth breeze w/97,000 mi, right rear wheel cyl failed, brake fluid everywhere, r&r wheel cyl and all new pads & hardware. Now ABS dash light is always on. How do I rectify the problem?
Many thanks.....gunnlino

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I hope you replaced both wheel cylinders. A sensor could be covered with junk from brake fluid but should wash off with just water.

While light is on you should have regular braking action if all else is normal, T