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Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Oldsmobile Alero Brakes Question

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From 'Jett on 1999 Oldsmobile Alero Brakes Question

Well recently I heard a scratching noise each time I would drive my car and I knew it was the brakes. So recently I figured out what it was and it was the little L shaped metal piece on the caliper thats almost touching the rotor. Heres a picture of a YouTube video just so you know what Im talking about.

Anyways, I noticed it was bent backwards and touching the rotor so I tried to bend it back in place and the bottom part broke off. Now there is only one on there and Im curious if it will make any difference and what exactly was it for? Thanks in advance to anyone that responds.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Those are anti rattle stuff. Caliper is off but brake pads need springy things or they rattle like nuts. Dunno how those got messed up but new ones are available. Rotor look lousy in that pic to me. Your call - wanna do a whole real brake job on this?

Also - don't let a caliper hang by the hose. They will fail by doing that! -- T

Response From 'Jett Top Rated Answer

I guess Ill change them out one day when I do another brake job or if it starts to rattle. I hope the one thats left will keep it from rattling though. Not really sure if your telling me it will be fine or if it wont be? Just that it may rattle, correct?

Note: The car in the video isn't mine by the way.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No matter on the exact car - we get the idea. That hardware is usually dirt cheap so just toss it all, both sides. Much will go another round and some really wont. You know that stuff is NG when not using brakes on a bumpy road then shut up with even light brake pressure -- Tom

1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with seized rear brake piston

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Neti on 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with seized rear brake piston

Hello. I have an Oldsmobile cutlass 1995 with a seized piston in the rear passenger side brake. If you push the wheel while it's off the ground , the wheel is incredibly hard to push on some spots in the revolution(the wheel will not rotate freely).

This is reflected as when I brake hard , the peddle begins to vibrate , and you hear a sound as if the pads are not uniformly worn , a sort of "whooshing" sound. Braking power is also not very good.

I assume the front wheel brake pads are worn(will check very soon) , but the right rear brake has something definitely off about it.Brake fluid is fine.

Any suggestions on how to unbind the seized piston?

Response From Hammer Time

You don't "unseize" a frozen caliper, you replace both calipers but you are a bit premature assuming the caliper is actually the problem. Could be the slides frozen or a bad flex hose.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

As HT said fix all that's wrong in pairs. If rear discs the parking cables can stick, slide pins, or doubt the type but some use a mini drum brake inside rotor out of sight and those get so full of junk you can need to clean them out now and then.

Anyway the rear brakes are done in this it all must be right, calipers, hoses, hardware, parking brake cables drums and rotors as the heat has probably wrecked the stuck one already. I'm not or no longer a fan of machining them as they are just off spec for new parts and thinner so warp much quicker than new ones frequently not that much more than machining them. Just know that cutting any corners is first less safe and can easily put you back to needing the whole job again too,


1992 oldsmobile 88

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dwightfrye on 1992 oldsmobile 88

I have a 1992 oldsmobile 88 royale. a few weeks ago, my car would stall at stops. i checked the battery connections and they were loose. after tightening them all was fine. now it is stalling when i step on the brakes again but the terminals are not loose this time. what could be the cause? i originally thought it might be the battery but just last night, i could hear a clicking sound coming from the firewall when i step on the brakes.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

If the vehicle stalls when you step on the brakes try this. Let the engine warm up in park and let it idle. Step on the brake and listen to see if the engine idle starts to get rough. If it does, you may have a leaking brake booster causing a vacuum leak when brakes are applied. Check the booster for rot and check the seal around the check valve with the vacuum line on it. You can have an assistant hold the brake pedal with the car running in park and spray carb cleaner onto the booster. If the idle suddenly pops up a leak has been found. Remember, spray the cleaner around all the seams and any rusty areas heavily. If you find a leak, replace the booster. You don't remove the brake lines from the master cylinder when replacing the booster. Just unbolt the master from the booster and let it hang. This way you won't have to bleed the brakes saving a lot of time.


disc brake caliper removal

Showing 4 out of 10 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From revolver693 on disc brake caliper removal

Hi, I own a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with a 3.1 liter V-6 with 77.000 miles. I understand this problem is not unique

Response From revolver693

The problem is in the right rear disc brake.

Response From Hammer Time

I suspect the problem is retracting the piston in the caliper.

It doesn't just push in. It has to be threaded in while applying pressure. They make a number of tools to help do this. Here are a couple of them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Doesn't this also have a parking brake cable that's a DIY total PITA also?


Response From Hammer Time

It's time for the poster to elaborate on the problem some more. We can speculate all day. Until he helps a little, we are just spinning our wheels.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Revolver; Okay, the problem is in the RR caliper. There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the mount. Two bolts that hold the mount to the spindle. Both must be removed to remove the rotor. But, you still haven't told us what kind of problem you are having.

Response From Hammer Time

That doesn't help any. What are you trying to do and what is the problem?

Response From Hammer Time

Your going to have to explain a little better than that. What is it your trying to do?
Front or rear?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You took the words right out of his mouth. Left him speechless!

Response From revolver693 Top Rated Answer

95 oldsmobile 3.1 engine

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From worovitz on 95 oldsmobile 3.1 engine

bought the car thinking the linkage was messed up, found out it works fine.
so the car wont shift into gear but starts up and engine runs. i thought it could be an elctrical problem possibly, or an internal tranny problem?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not enough info for even a wild guess. You did that back-azzwards IMO and should have had a pretty sure diagnosis pre-purchase so can only hope the sale price will cover it,


Response From worovitz

well the car seems like it is stuck in park, it will periodically shift into neutral but not often i was thinking a transmission control soleniod, theres a "service engine soon" light on so im assuming its the check engine light, and every time i go to get a code reader the guy keeps giving me a paperclip and telling me a method that doesnt seem to work to get any codes any tips where to start any diagnostic?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have a transition year. It's half OBD1 and half OBD2. You need a professional scan too for that one.

That would be called the shift interlock feature. It operates on the same circuit as the brake lights so the first thing you want to do is to make sure the brake lights are working when this problem is present. If the brake lights are working, that proves the circuit is good up to that point, then you'll have to get to the solenoid in the console. Disassemble as much as you have to to access the solenoid near the shifting mechanism. Us a 12v test light to test for power coming and going at the solenoid when the brake is applied. If power is arriving and switching and the solenoid is not triggering, the solenoid is bad and will have to be replaced.

Response From worovitz

Break lights work and when i apply the breaks it will move the linkage, it just wont engage into any gear its as if every gear is park and sometimes will allow most gears to be neutral intermittently

Response From Hammer Time

Take it to a transmission shop for diagnosis.

Response From Discretesignals

I agree, if you can put it into gear with the engine running and you know the shift linkage is moving the lever on the transaxle, and you have the fluid at the right level on the dipstick, the transaxle needs to come apart.

Response From Mr.scotty

Might have to go get it scanned with a OBD-1 scanner.