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Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Brakes Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

beeping niose when brake pedal is depressed

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gmthorp on beeping niose when brake pedal is depressed

2007,mitsubishi triton glx,3.9, 98500 klm
my son was driving and when he depressed his brake pedal there was a continuous beeping noise coming from the dash board area , almost like a warning???
Could you please possibly explain what this is, as the service manager at a mitsubishi dealer had'nt heard of this happening before.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'll take a WAG (wild arse guess) that it is in fact a warning to check brake fluid level first then inspect the brakes at the wheels. Good time to rotate tires if it's been a while so not a waste.

I do know Buick and perhaps others will beep at even leaving your directionals on too long and probably same to check your gauges.

No matter but since it only happens with brake use that's where I'd look first for safety sake then maybe blame it on some fool problem with power to brake lights crossed up with the normal beeps of an open door with keys in and other reasons that would be normal??

T

Need instruction on changing brakes in magna

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Need instruction on changing brakes in magna

Borrowing a friends car til mine is fixed. Car I am borrowing is desperate 4 new brakes. Know how 2 change brakes in my car (simple as - 99 excel) but have never done it on any other car. Can somebody plz help me out. Just need 2 b told what 2 undo so I can change pads. Its a 94 magna wagon. 2.6L
Cheers all

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Never heard of a magna? But, most all front disc brakes are the 'same'. You must depress the piston into the caliper housing to accept the new pads which can be done with a large C clamp. You should open the bleeder on the caliper prior to depressing the piston so that you don't force the old, nasty, fluid back into the system. If you do it right, you won't have to bleed afterwards. It is always recommended to resurface the rotors at the same time. Gotta know, what is a magna?

Response From Guest

That i belive is that station wagon looking thing made by dodge.....Click this link(Or copy and past it) I just found a random link with a good size pic to show yah what it looks like....Tony


http://www.dodge.com/en/2008/magnum/index.html?bid=1758118&adid=207946583&pid=30092821&KWNM=dodge%20magnum&KWID=3021379

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

OH, Magnum? Could be.

Response From Big-T

Well i thought the same thing about it being a magnum...But that is to new of a car to be a 1994..So i googled it and found out it's a mitsubisihi...I posted the link right above your last post in the last sentence..

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

LOL; I have a bad habbit of 'skimming' the mssg. The 1994 should have been a clue. Hmmm. Old age? Good excuse? But, have never heard of a Mits. Magna. Must be a Euro or Aussie model? No matter, still just a rice burner.

Response From Big-T Top Rated Answer

Used MITSUBISHI MAGNA Specs Build Date:1994 Make:MITSUBISHI Model:MAGNA Series: Price:$2,000 Odometer: kmRego No.:1cqm 639 VIN/Eng No.: Rego Expiry:N/A
http://digiads.com.au/carsales/used-cars/USED-1994-MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-WAGON-CAR-FOR-SALE-SYDNEY-NSW-2000.htm

2006 Mitsubishi eclipse 2.4L Brakes making rough noise on sharp right turn

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Charlesx97 on 2006 Mitsubishi eclipse 2.4L Brakes making rough noise on sharp right turn

For a 2006 mitsubishi eclipse 2.4L GS after I make a sharp right turn as I straighten out the wheels and I pump the brakes I hear a deep rough squeak. It sounds like metal rubbing together. The sound continues as I keep driving straight and pump the brakes until eventually it stops on it's own. I just replaced the brake pads on all four wheels like 3 weeks ago what could it be?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Whole host of reasons for this:
1. Just replacing pads and nothing else done.
2. New pads are hitting a rust ring on outer rotor surface.
3. Splash shield could be touching rotor or bent/damaged.
4. Caliper hardware not inspected, replaced or lubed.
5. Improper installation of any parts involved.
6. Twisted flex hose locking pressure to a caliper.
7. Defective flex hose(s) themselves.
8. Retracting pistons such that ABS items have old dirty brake fluid in sensitive components.
!! - Wheel(s) loose!
!!! - Cheap and or defective new parts.

The list could go on forever but IMO those would be most common,

T

2004 mitsubishi eclipse

Showing 6 out of 9 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From turbo321 on 2004 mitsubishi eclipse

Having replaced drums and shoes on rear,and also replacing front pads and having rotors turned I still get a shaking in the steering wheel when I brake.Any ideas what else it could be.

Response From Hammer Time

You need to replace the front rotors, not turn them.

Response From turbo321

why would you think the rotors need to be replaced.I've had them turned and they were put back into specs.I don't understand why

Response From Hammer Time

You don't turn rotors into spec by turning them. You take them out of spec. When a rotor is already distorted and you make it thinner, it distorts twice as fast the second time. Also, the cut is only as good as the guy operating the machine. It is very easy to "miscut" a rotor because it wasn''t mounted straight and make it even worse than it was to start with. Rotors are cheap now and a "warped" rotor should be discarded. That's not what resurfacing is intended to do.

Response From turbo321

beings that it seemed like a fairly respectable brake shop that I took them to,I'm finding it hard to believe that the rotors need to replaced.Would anything else cause a similar problem.Maybe something in the steering or rack and pinion possibly.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, whatever you say

Response From turbo321 Top Rated Answer

just trying to find answers.You don't have to get mad

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not mad. You come here to ask the professionals what the problem is and when they tell you, you tell them they are wrong. Good luck with it.

beings that it seemed like a fairly respectable brake shop that I took them to,I'm finding it hard to believe that the rotors need to replaced.

Respectable brake shop?

That's an Oxymoron if I ever heard one.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ditto with HT - days of turning rotors are about done. With metallic pads the rotor was probably out of spec before taking more off. They are usually marked for min thickness and bet if you measure one they are under spec AND possibly miscut as said. So that's two ASE certified opinions,

T

2000 Mitsubishi Triton Brake Lights Won't Work

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From SidJnr on 2000 Mitsubishi Triton Brake Lights Won't Work

The Brake Lights wont work on the car.


Things i have tried:
Replaced Fuses.
Ran a Cable from the battery into the port bundle before it goes under the car. They Worked!
Tried to bypas the Brake Switch by running a cable from it back into it and nothing happened.
(if you have trouble understanding what i mean i can take and post photos)

So now i am asuming that it is from the battery to the brake switch that is gone wrong?
I tried to find the cable (red and white) coming off the positive but all i could find was one coming off the Hazard light Fuse.

Note: This car Has been inactive for 3+ Years and i only just put a new engine in myself (God knows what has happened to it in that time).

Please Help!

Response From Hammer Time

Throw your "cable" away before you start a fire and get a 12v test light. Test for power arriving at the brake switch all the time and leaving on another wire when the brake is applied.

Response From SidJnr Top Rated Answer


and leaving on another wire when the brake is applied.

Please explain?

Response From Hammer Time

If that is beyond your understanding, then I suggest this job isn't for you and you should bring this to a competent shop. Electrical diagnostics is not something you just wake up one day and perform.

Response From SidJnr


If that is beyond your understanding, then I suggest this job isn't for you and you should bring this to a competent shop. Electrical diagnostics is not something you just wake up one day and perform.

It's not beyond my understanding, i removed, rebuilt and installed the engine myself. I'll be damned if some wires beat me.

If you could just explain what "leaving on another wire" means it would be of great help.

If it puts your mind at ease i shall use a 12v Test light

Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time

It means 12v into the switch and 12v out when brake is applied. It shouldn't require any further explanation.

Response From SidJnr

Thats Sufficient, Thank you.

Response From SidJnr

Couldn't Figure out the problem, Noticed my Battery light wont come off so i have changed the Alternator and now the Brake lights work only when the car is running.

Is that fine for a RWC or do they have to work whilst the car is off?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

RWC? Whatever that means. Almost everything I know of brake lights will operate without engine running or even if key is off. I have no idea why changing out an alternator made them work but it's a clue of where something is wrong with wiring,

T

Response From SidJnr

Road Worthy Certificate.

I didn't wanna take chances so i have ran a wire from the battery to the brake switch, i just need to put a fuse in there somewhere and hopefully that will be the end of that.

Thanks for the help :)

Response From Hammer Time

We don't fix things that way. It's dangerous and you can start a fire. Fix it right or don't fix it at all.

Response From Discretesignals

I agree. Running unfused jumper wire directly from the battery to test circuits is going to get you into trouble. You happen to touch the wrong circuit by accident and you can cook something expensive.