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Latest Mitsubishi Mirage Repair and Brakes Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Squealing noise near front of car

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From freshjunior on Squealing noise near front of car

Hi guys,

So this problem started last week. Whenever I start the engine at the start of the day, the car makes this squealing sound near the front wheels. The squealing sound goes off after 30secs to a minute.

Also, this noise happens every now and then when I am travelling at low speeds (0-10mph), and sometimes it gets louder when I am making a turn. It never occurs when I am travelling at higher speeds (above 20-30mph). Every time, the noise persists for a minute or so before it disappears. I am not sure whether it is due to the brakes, because this occurs regardless of whether the brakes are being applied.

I've brought my car to the mechanic twice but the noise did not occur during the checks and so the mechanics were unable to give a diagnostic.

Information about car:

Mitsubishi Mirage, 2001
Water pump and timing belt are new - changed a month ago.
Miles: 111k


Response From Tom Greenleaf

IMO - strong chance the regular belt (s) aren't tight enough. Doesn't matter is self adjusted or manual your symptoms are a strong clue of that. My reason is when you start the car you've just taken some juice out of the alternator and instantly it works hard to return it to full charge and slips. Turning you are asking PS pump to work harder so same deal, the belt just isn't tight enough or wrong belt at the end of adjustment range. Could be missed but also should be easy to determine,


Response From nickwarner

Does sound like Tom said that a belt is slipping. Might even be original belts. I would change them with new and adjust properly. Don't get the cheap ones, get the Gates belts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

To add - It's likely that with a water pump and timing belt that service belts were done but either way they need to be good and the correct tension. If they are allowed to slip if that is it and I think so it could wreck or shine up a new one.

I won't go back and fix it now but what I meant with the symptoms is that when you start the car which is quick or should be it is the biggest draw on the battery. The alternator's job is to put back what you lost in running the starter motor so works hard to do that right away and a loose belt will have trouble with that load.

Other is if not self adjusted new belts can stretch some and need re- adjustment after perhaps a few days of use then they stay right for quite a while. Some will guess at installing new belts a bit too tight so you don't need to go back but that's not so easy on pulley bearings. It's tough to tell a customer to please drive a while and come back.

When you did and it wasn't doing it I think they just missed it. You should be able to just feel a belt not being tight enough or see a self adjusted one out of its range new belt or not.

Never sure of anything here but this just sounds too likely the reason for this,


1990 Mirage Fails to Start

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Paul Koala on 1990 Mirage Fails to Start

I'm working on a 1990 Mitsubishi Mirage (1.5L 4-cylinder) that has been sitting for many months. I just replaced the cylinder head (it had blown a gasket due to overheating and was in pretty bad shape). Afterwards I soon found out the fuel pump had failed so I replaced it as well. Now the engine fires just a little when I first turn it over (after it's been sitting awhile) and then just cranks without firing at all.

The diagnostics I've already done:
- I have checked the ignition timing with a timing light on the camshaft timing mark.
- I have double-checked the firing order.
- I have checked that all the spark plugs do spark (outside the cylinders).
- I have removed the fuel rail and confirmed that the injectors are spraying (I know that's a bad way to test the fuel pressure, but since the car doesn't have a port I couldn't conveniently attach a gauge).
- I have checked the compression on the cylinders and they all reach at least 85 psi.

I know y'all may really hate these threads about old cars that have been sitting and won't start, but I'm hoping to get some hunches I can explore.

Response From Discretesignals

I have checked the compression on the cylinders and they all reach at least 85 psi.

Red alert Captain! not enough compression.

Response From Paul Koala

It's true that two of the cylinders are around 85 psi which is concerning. The other two are around 110 psi (good?). You think that's a possible cause for a total failure to start? Regardless, how do you think I should go about diagnosing/correcting the compression problem?

Response From Discretesignals

Disable the injectors and spark by unplugging distributor electrical connector. Remove the spark plugs and put a couple T spoons of oil down into the cylinders. Crank the engine couple of times. Recheck your compression. When you check compression be sure you have throttle wide open.

Being overheating there is the possibility of ring damage. Rings can also be sticking from sitting so long.

Response From Paul Koala

First, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It certainly seems that inadequate compression is the problem. However, I'm still not sure what to make of the engine's behavior.

When I oiled the cylinders as you said the compression pressures went up to around 150 psi on all the cylinders. The engine started but only ran for a few seconds before dying. When I rechecked the compression pressures they were all back down to around 100 psi or lower.

Of course I considered that there might be a serious problem with the head installation but the odd part is that oiling them and turning them over got the compression back up again only to let it fall again as soon as the engine was started the second time!

BTW, to address the overheating: the head gasket was actually replaced after the first blow and the engine ran fine for several months. However, the second gasket blew after that (not because of overheating) which is why I decided to replace the whole head.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Seems the rings have a problem sealing. Adding oil helps the rings seal and the compression comes up. When the oil goes away (burned off) as the engine is running, the compression goes away.

Either your pressure is leaking past the rings or for some mysterious reason the cylinders are being washed out. I really don't think it is a wash out problem, because washing doesn't usually happen as the engine is running. Washing usually happens during cranking.

What you could try is running the engine on propane or brake cleaner (flammable kind) with the injectors unplugged. If the engine runs on propane or brake cleaner and the compression stays normal, you have a wash out problem.

Response From Paul Koala

Hmm, I'm going to suggest a theory and maybe you can tell me if it's remotely plausible.

When I first put the distributor back in I was not careful to get it indexed correctly. I made sure the spark timing was right but I didn't realize that the fuel injection might still be timed incorrectly. I fiddled around with it for awhile before correcting that problem.

Is it possible that the cylinders/rings were severely damaged simply from cranking the engine with them totally washed out? Apart from that I can't figure out what could have changed since the car was running (albeit with a blown head gasket) when it was parked.

Obviously I don't want to take the head back off unless I'm sure it's necessary so perhaps I'll try the propane idea if I can't come up with another plausible explanation...

Response From Hammer Time

If that blown head gasket caused a severe overheating, the rings and cylinder walls will get damaged.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just some comments/thoughts: How long did this sit in what conditions? The wet (with oil) compression test about proves that lack of enough compression is the problem but hasn't targeted exactly what quite yet.

Sitting there pistons + rings just stayed where they were and whatever exposure to the elements had some time. Cylinder wall galling shown in an extreme like this........

would be fatal for that engine. That you probably could see with a lab type scope thru spark plug hole. Another is general gun rust with the piston rings not really doing their thing flip flopping microscopically which make a lot of difference in their effectiveness.

That could correct with forcing this to run as mentioned. The galling if present wont self correct so at best would be an oil burner ending in game over.

My point is the wild swing in compression tests should be the #1 concern IMO as going from less than 100 to 150 is quite a jump and was uniform to all if I read that correctly,


Response From Paul Koala

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I don't think there's really severe damage to the cylinders because they looked okay when I had the head off (recently) and the engine turned over smoothly by hand. It sounds like the rings may have some significant deposits on them, though, or perhaps even corrosion damage.

I'm thinking about adding some B12 mixed with oil to the cylinders and cranking the engine to help clean them out. Do you think that's worth trying? I really think I'm going to have to take the head back off but I want to try what I can first.

Thanks again for the help, guys. This has been a bit of a slow project but I'll be sure to follow up once it is resolved.

Response From Hammer Time

There's no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can". The only person that benefits from those additives is the guy that sold them.

Response From Paul Koala

Well I took the head back off this afternoon and popped a piston out. Apart from the lower bearing being a bit rough everything seems okay!

The only thing that looks funny is that the gaps in the relaxed piston rings are a bit different from each other. Is it possible the rings are not exerting enough pressure on the cylinder walls due to the overheating (even though they look fine)? I must admit I have no idea how stiff they should feel...

Response From Paul Koala

Okay, so this is what the rings look like:

Any thoughts?

EDIT: I also checked the cylinder walls and apart from a single scratch on the third cylinder they look fine and are smooth to the touch.

Response From Hammer Time

Visually looking at a piston ring isn't going to tell you anything.

I hope you didn't remove it that way with all the ends lined up on one side.

Response From Paul Koala

Visually looking at a piston ring isn't going to tell you anything.

I hope you didn't remove it that way with all the ends lined up on one side.

So you're saying I shouldn't be alarmed that the rings look fine; I should just replace them and move on?

And no, I aligned the rings for the photo. I won't put the new ones back in that way, promise.

Response From Hammer Time

The testing needs to be done in the vehicle while it's still assembled. The wet/dry compression test said a lot but I think I would have done further testing before tearing it down. You don't have any options now.

Response From Smogguy83

Your valve timing jumped a tooth for sure.

Response From Hammer Time

Smogguy83.......... stop posting nonsense. You have no idea what you are talking about.