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Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003Chrysler Town & Country

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From rnofx5 on 2003Chrysler Town & Country

My 2003 Chrysler Town & Country jerks when I brake down to 30 MPH. What could be the problem? The Car has 100,800 miles on it. Please Help!!

Response From rnofx5

I think it's in the transmission. Every time I decelerate down to 30 MPH the car gives a jerk then rides fine until I decelerate down to 30 MPH again. Is it the start of something or am I screwed?

Response From DanD

Still every difficult to answer your question.
I suggest having the vehicle at least road tested and checked by a technician. If this is a transmission issue and caught in time; it may turn out to be a repair, rather then a rebuild.

Dan.

Response From rnofx5

Sorry I'm being so vague, but I know nothing about cars or car repair. I just know what's happening while i'm driving it. If it is of any help, this started happening after I was in reverse coming out of my driveway. When I put it into drive, the car wouldn't switch gears even though I had it in drive. I had to put the car in park and then put into drive again. After that the jerking started to happen.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Can you give us a little better description; as in is it the engine/transmission (drivetrain) or brakes that are jerking? Does this jerking stop when the brake is released?

Dan.

Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

Showing 4 out of 11 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From gstst4 on Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

I have a 2010 Chrysler town & country 3.8 with 62000 miles. I am having rear brake problems. I had humming at high speeds and smelling of burning brakes on the passenger side. Then as time passed it switched to the driver's side. Changed brake pads and passenger side rotor which had wear grooves. Everything seemed fine for about a month. Now the sound is back along with the smell back on the passenger's side. I've read that it could be the guide pins causing the sticking brakes, or could it be the caliber?

Response From jzr Top Rated Answer

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair. In other words promising Nordstrom on a 7-11 budget. Forget all the spilled milk discussions here. Get higher grade materials all around - Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors, Ceramic pads, heavier duty calipers and your nightmare will be over. YOU have to re-engineer the solution. After review of all the "advice" (okay), it will never resolve your problem, which is actually based on figuring out what is going to break next because of "UNPREDICTABLE" results engineering from Chrysler. Correction, what is PREDICTABLE is that this engineering is calculated to fail in the short term. If you don't follow this advice you will constantly be trying to figure out "now what is wrong" with your brakes, besides trying to figure out why did I buy this engineered lemon.

Response From Discretesignals

This thread is more than a year old. Closed to prevent spamming or hijacking.

Response From Hammer Time

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair.

Wow, we got a real genius on our hands here.

I hear Chrysler is looking to hire more physicists to design their cars. Maybe you should apply.

You might want to find out what a physicist is first though. Maybe you could invent Nuclear drive.

Response From Discretesignals

Could be caliper, seized guide pins, faulty brake hose, parking brake is on, and/or parking brake cables are seized causing something like that. Did you lubricate the slide pins when you had it apart?

Response From gstst4

I'll grease the guide pins first before I do anything and check everything over.

Response From Discretesignals

Make sure the pins slide back and forth when you remove the caliper. If they do, then remove them and put some brake grease on them.

Inspect the caliper parking brake arm on the caliper before you remove the caliper and make sure it is all the way released.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, lube with proper lube every time. Also - do something to one side do the same to the other. You said you just did passenger pads and rotor - not so good an idea and doesn't save anything in the long run,


T

Response From gstst4

No I did replace the padson both sides, but only replaced the rotor on the right side. Lubricated the guide pins. Mind you the smell of the brakes and hot wheel is not constant. It happens only at high speeds once in a while. Hopefully the grease will do the job. Any other suggestions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pins when lubed and good should just slide in your hands. What is harder to know if piston is intermittently sticking and about to freeze up or even flex hoses that can let pressure in but not out so that brake will drag if so.


Parking brake anything matters as well as I think this one uses a cam inside the caliper and is sprung to be off not applied and should retract to complete OFF. Wheels should spin free when hoisted with either rotor fastened or wheel back on. No drag.


If anytime you find one side of brake pads or shoes for drums worn more than the other side there's a problem to fix not just replace them pads and rotors even. Gotta find out why one was different - it's brakes - no games!


One thing that is real bad for brake caliper is if they get submersed in water for any reason. They really are NOT water tight and any moisture between dust boot/seal can easily corrode piston or caliper wall and ruin them but cute as that happens much later than right before they get dunked if so, not just road spray from driving in the rain for instance,


T

Response From gstst4

No I'm sure I didn't. I feel I should just replace the caliber. That parking brake is tricky to deal with. I think that's the hardest part replacing the caliber besides bleeding the brakes after.

chrysler concorde brake issues

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From fausty on chrysler concorde brake issues

98 chrysler concorde lxi, 3.2 liter.

hello gentlemen. i have an issue with a steering pulse when braking. any pointers on where to start. rotors, wheel bearings? my nearest parts store is 20 miles away. i was maybe thinking of making a big list, starting with the cheapest items, and returning what i don't need. any help is appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

That is nearly always the result of rotor distortion. I don't recommend trying to resurface them as the problem will likely reoccur quickly. You should also replace the pads at the same time, regardless of their condition.

Response From fausty

Ok thank you. Rotors are fairly cheap anyways, and I have been meaning to do a pad pop anyways. I will keep you posted. I was hoping it wasn't the tie rods so this kinda makes my day. Easy fix.

Response From Hammer Time

Loose tie rods would exaggerate the problem but the rotors are the trigger.

Response From fausty Top Rated Answer

Ok thank you. How do I check the tie rods? My haynes manual has check info on almost everything but not that.

2010 Chrysler Sebring 2 of 3 brake lights don't work!

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From MRich on 2010 Chrysler Sebring 2 of 3 brake lights don't work!

2010 Chrysler Sebring Touring (4 cylinder) - 2 out of the 3 brake lights don't work! The one in the middle of the trunk works fine, but the 2 others don't. I've put in new bulbs & replaced the brake switch, but they still don't work...That's about as far as my mechanical knowledge goes! Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

It's too new to have a wiring diagram but it's usually the turn signal switch that causes that although I would think this is under warranty.

Response From MRich

Thank you both for the insight! I will check out the suggestions & see where it goes!
Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This would be a safety issue so stop messing with it or you will own the problem. Warranty for safety short of an accident goes way beyond whatever this had and is transferred to a second owner at least where I am - MA,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not under warranty?

Simple test light - is power coming out of brake light switch?

If so you may find there's a ground issue so use a test light back powered - bet it's missing,

T

Response From MRich

Not sure about the warranty! Bought it used. Searching for warranty papers now!
Not sure what "back powered" means, but I'm sure I've seen the test lights at the auto store. I imagine it's pretty self explanatory on how to use it.
Thanks for the help!