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Original Equipment
1997 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Rotor Original Equipment

P311-3E054D0    W0133-1622419  New

Qty:
$41.68
Original Equipment Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1997 - Honda Prelude
Ultra
1998 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Rotor Ultra

P311-349D8DE    W0133-1622419  New

Qty:
$13.13
Ultra Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Ultra
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1998 - Honda Prelude
Zimmermann
2002 Honda Civic Disc Brake Rotor Zimmermann

P311-0A99157    W0133-2034218  New

Qty:
$41.87
Zimmermann Disc Brake Rotor
  • Rear
Brand: Zimmermann
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Vehicle
2002 - Honda Civic
Zimmermann
2002 Honda Civic Disc Brake Rotor Zimmermann

P311-0A99157    W0133-2034218  New

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$41.87
Zimmermann Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Zimmermann
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2002 - Honda Civic
Pilenga
2004 Honda Civic Disc Brake Rotor Pilenga

P311-3D7F9D2    W0133-1765636  New

Qty:
$42.84
Pilenga Disc Brake Rotor
  • Rear
Brand: Pilenga
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Vehicle
2004 - Honda Civic
Ultra
1998 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Ultra

P311-25087F9    W0133-1623415  New

Qty:
$10.79
Ultra Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Ultra
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Vehicle
1998 - Honda Accord
Original Equipment
1998 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Original Equipment

P311-5C47093    W0133-1623415  New

Qty:
$55.92
Original Equipment Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1998 - Honda Accord
Ultra
1998 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Ultra

P311-5CCDA99    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$16.95
Ultra Disc Brake Rotor
  • Rear
Brand: Ultra
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Vehicle
1998 - Honda Accord
Mountain
1998 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-35239D1    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$35.71
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Rear
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1998 - Honda Accord
Original Equipment
1998 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Original Equipment

P311-0EC7C1E    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$55.53
Original Equipment Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1998 - Honda Accord
Ultra
1999 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Ultra

P311-5CCDA99    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$16.95
Ultra Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Ultra
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Vehicle
1999 - Honda Accord
Mountain
1999 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-35239D1    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$35.71
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1999 - Honda Accord
Original Equipment
1999 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Original Equipment

P311-0EC7C1E    W0133-1607598  New

Qty:
$55.53
Original Equipment Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1999 - Honda Accord
Mountain
2008 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-0EDDE83    W0133-1906134  New

Qty:
$57.90
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
2008 - Honda Accord
Original Equipment
2008 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Original Equipment

P311-01B18BB    W0133-1906134  New

Qty:
$68.50
Original Equipment Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2008 - Honda Accord
Mountain
1980 Honda Civic Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-33A2FC3    W0133-1628300  New

Qty:
$30.06
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1980 - Honda Civic
Mountain
1979 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-33A2FC3    W0133-1628300  New

Qty:
$30.06
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Hub with 13.7mm Studs
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1979 - Honda Prelude
Mountain
1982 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-33A2FC3    W0133-1628300  New

Qty:
$30.06
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Hub with 12mm Studs
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1982 - Honda Prelude
Mountain
1984 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-48ECAA5    W0133-1611585  New

Qty:
$38.50
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1984 - Honda Accord
Mountain
1991 Honda Accord Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-2EDDB52    W0133-1611843  New

Qty:
$44.55
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
1991 - Honda Accord

Latest Honda Repair and Brake Rotors Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

My moms honda

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From adiobampro369 on My moms honda

My moms 96 honda civic is acting up. I dont know how to explain it on here best but i will try. It drives smooth when you have your hands on the steering wheel going forward. but when you start to hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes violently. and then makes a vibrating sounds too. Let me know if you need more info. Thank you!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Strongly suggests warped brake rotor or a bad rusted spot on one or both fronts. No matter the whole thing needs inspecting, brake, bearing, front end parts and wheels,

T

Response From adiobampro369

Ok thank you...I didnt know if it was her brakes or rotors going bad or what? because it happens as soon as you tap the brakes. it shakes like as if you are going 50 mph and like you have a bad tire(as an example).

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Everything that turns, wheels, tires, bearings, brake rotors (fronts, some use drum style for rears) can be part of the issue but since it triggers it when you apply the brakes the first concern is the "trueness" of the front rotors since you feel it so much in the steering wheel.

Any marginal/worn part could make the feeling that much worse. In short - it probably needs a good front brake job and inspect all the wheels, tires and other items as well,

T

Response From adiobampro369

I will do that! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!

Need some tip from yall up north!

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Jeff Norfolk on Need some tip from yall up north!

Yall got any tips for working on rusty cars from up north? Since the economy took a dump a lot of folks have been migrating to SE Texas for work. Seeing the rusted out underneath and under the hood syndrome more and more. Did a three hour timing belt on a Honda in six hours today. Do yall normally get extra time for rust? Ay help would be super!

Response From Hammer Time

Let me pass on one "old timer's" trick for rusty parts.

This is good for things like frozen brake bleeders. Get a small torch and a spray bottle with water in it. The trick is to heat the area around the bleeder but only hot enough to steam water. Now you want to slowly spray a fine mist of water around the threads. Do this until it cools down and then repeat the process a couple times. The trick in this is that the steaming water will steam the rust away in the threads and allow you to put a wrench on cold metal which give the metal more strength than if it was hot. You also won't get it hot enough to damage any rubber parts.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Thanks yall. I have not had much experience with the rust. Except for the last few months. I expect to see it more and more in the coming months. Sounds like I will be investing in some assorted sizes of torches and several cans of PB.

Response From Sidom

I'll have to give PB a definate thumbs up.... Man that is probably the best penatrating oil I have ever used........ the stuff is amazing

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer


I expect to see it more and more in the coming months. Sounds like I will be investing in some assorted sizes of torches and several cans of PB.

Jeff

You do need an Oxy-Acetylene set but that should do it all. You can't live without the "Fits-all fire wrench".............LOL
I'm not in a northern area now but I am right on the ocean, I mean right ON the ocean and most of my customer's cars sit unused and exposed to the salt air and with wind coming off the ocean for 6 months a year or more. I have some customers that have to replace brake rotors every year. They just disintegrate.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A neat set I don't own yet is the tiny bottles (like common propane torch size) of MAPP+OXY which is small enough to be handy and will braze and cut! Propane heat isn't enough in most cases. This twin pack is at the home centers - once seem at Wally World and assorted hardware by Bernz-O-Matic. This is costly as those tanks are refillable and I think it states good for twenty minutes only for full force. If good you only need a minute to heat something.

I'ts on the toy list that even when retired you never really are so I'll have them someday. Neat - as I love to load a truck with stuff for off site stuff.

~~~~~~~~``

Jeff - If you start seeing a lot of this - brakes in particular you can get an eye on what has a chance and what doesn't. Then you buy what you need to make up or splice in brake line/trans lines, fuel lines LEGALLY with proper flared ends. Mopars in particular use a loooong flare nut and line is so stuck inside the nut you won't win. Fronts are worse right at flex hoses and making a piece of new line takes some time.

Watch out for rust between rotor and hubs. Just rotating tires the flakes fall down and it behaves like a bent rim.

More: Those damn mini drum e-brakes are a PITA. That's only static friction is folks use them at all. You need to train folks to drag them now and then to shine them up or burn off the rust in there unseen!

Heat shields on exhaust: Big time troubles. They are tack welded originally. A SS clamps (like for clothes dryer vents) can re support those safely in place in some cases and save a customer a zillion bucks as some can't be replaced that are on OE converters and hence can crank the cost thru the roof. You get you hour to fix and make a happy customer.

Still more: You will need to give up on some flare nuts. Cut the line right off and use a six point socket - forget the flare nut wrenches till the new one is ready. Duh - fuel lines (gas filter suck) you can't use heat unless you are up for that show!


Trans lines - same problems - cut and replace.
More III: The copper tubing and connectors like for a home water to fridge ice maker stuff is NOT legal for use in cars! You can legally use high end rubber and clamps for trans lines.

Again: Some items depending on what you are doing it's easier to tighten to break them and replace with new.

~~~~~~~~~~~

That was all mostly discussing undercar stuff. Same bull underhood sometimes with assorted nuts and bolts. PB again and wait. Alloys with steel type fastener are the pits. Here - machine shops will extract bolts broken off in cyl heads and stuff and it's worth it if you are sending a head out anyway or just for that sometimes.

With charging for the extra time - show a customer just what you are dealing with - they should understand it takes more time or sometimes ruined parts!

Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think I mentioned that the tip of Gumout will fit PB cans. PB doesn't have a nozzle so it just sprays everywhere and will take paint off. I swich them to the tube sprayer to I can direct it OR use a cup and a Q-Tip to place it. Watch out for that stuff - it's stronger than paint remover!

T



That stuff - it's sold at AZ and other parts stores but might be tougher for you to find.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I throw the time allowed book out the window because of rust issues. You can spent tons more time with a stupid fuel filter or any dumb thing than the book says to do a job without breaking stuff OR to replace what broke!

OK: I've worked for myself so it was my call. Some extra $$ for the extra time but not usually a full rate as much of the time could be just waiting for PB to help and you do something else. Torches are the "blue" wrench for rusted steel - a local or just my name for that wrench - one size fits all at 3,000 degrees!

Tricks: On some items that won't behave at your discretion each item - tighten the nut or bolt till it breaks and just go new.

That for a "thru" nut and bolt something - just break it.

Get small torches if you get into too much of this. Brake line flare nuts - the list goes on will come out if just barely glowing as with exhaust parts. Of course that heat has to be used away from anything it can harm too.

Other helpers are air tools. Set a 3/8th drive air wrench and not too much power to break something you need NOT to break. Back and forth - tighten they to loosen till it behaves.

Keep in mind the regular rust is adding material until bits fall off. It's oxidation so that bolt in a blind hole is bigger when rusted not smaller! Got it?

If you have routine cars that are an issue and expect them back - take the time to spray the routine service items when they are in so the parts will behave when and if you get that job later.

They don't teach "dealing with rust" in the tech books much. You kinda need to live it to get used to it.

Tell a customer it may take extra time! Sometimes letting a penetrating oil set for a day saves breaking a part - you aren't working all that time but you need the time.

Judgement call on how to charge for the problems that can arise.

Good luck buddy. I may be the "rust" meister/master of this forum and deal with it constantly and always did. Sadly it was the demise of all my own cars except one. Run like new and unsafe from extreme rust! Damn!

T

2004 Accord - Haven't run in 3 months, what should I check?

Showing 8 out of 22 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From sad_honda on 2004 Accord - Haven't run in 3 months, what should I check?

Hey all,

I have a 2004 Honda Accord DX 4 cyclinder with about 120k miles on it.

The car hasn't been driven in about 3 months. I've checked around on the web a bit and learned this info might also be relevant:
- Parking brake was pulled up
- Car hasn't had any major problems to date
- New tires (less than 4000miles on them)
- Last oil change about 3000 miles ago
- Stored in heated parking, underground parking garage
- The battery is about 3.5 years old and it completely dead. Have not tried jumping it yet, will try tomorrow.

I'm trying to put together a checklist of things of what I should check for problems before doing any major driving in it. Here's what I have so far:
1. Try to jump battery and see if it will turnover
2. Check brake rotors for rust?
3. Check for leaking fluids underneath car

Are there other things I should look at? How can I check those things? (note I don't have any major equipment available, only basic driver set and a basic jack)

Thanks all, I really appreciate any advice.

Response From Hammer Time

Only 3 months? Charge/replace the battery, get in it and start it up. You don't need anything special.

Response From sad_honda

Thanks, going to try to jump the battery today and take it for a drive.

I was concerned as I'd read some posts on other sites saying the brakes will rust and gaskets will wear out after 3months time. Just wanted to make sure I didn't risk damaging anything!

Will post results and any findings just in case it might help others.

Response From Hammer Time

If the battery is that old, it will likely need a new one.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote "">> Heated stored in garage for only 3 months"

As everone is saying that's nothing. Battery may have given out being dead too long and best to charge it rather than just a jump. Just make sure you have brakes and should be fine.

Perhaps check tire pressure and that about it IMO. I do it all the time and have for decades but do leave batteries on a floating trickle charger which does save them. Two cars now always get stored for Winters which kills them with salty roads used for ice and snow - that's all,

T

Response From sad_honda

Here's an update. I ended up trying a 15min jump and the battery remained completely out cold. Putting key in ignition doesn't get lights or anything.

As the battery was going on 5 years, I think I'll take your advice and pick up a new one tomorrow. Will also have them test my current battery at the shop and see if there is any chance of salvage.

Tom,
Thanks for suggestion on charging by the way. I looked into trickle chargers and this looks like a great tool in case I end up need to store it for a while again.


Discrete,
I left on a 3 month exchange program overseas. I embarassingly didn't do enough research to find out about trickle chargers and didn't have anyone who could take it for a drive, which left me in this predicament... thanks to you guys I won't be making that mistake in the future!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

They sell battery maintainers now real cheap. I think Home Depot has this one for about $20




Response From Tom Greenleaf

Nice. I could use one more and like that one so will be looking for that exact one. These will charge a battery just not fast. Used for generator, whatever yard equipment that isn't used all the time or seasonal stuff. Some like the one Hammer showed do just plug in a power port with no hassles for vehicles.

Love these things, -- T

Response From Hammer Time

I have that one on my Vette and it keeps the battery at peak.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yup - I have two 10+ year old bats (unheard of) for a generator, a tractor, car I don't use and so on. They really help a stored item OR I'll put this on a new battery to show fully charged if time allows and it's tip top for installation before so car doesn't have to do the work. Can't beat these things for the short bucks, -- T

Response From sad_honda

The saga continues it seems. I went over to buy a new battery and the mechanic strongly advised against selling me one as he mentioned it sounds like I might have a short circuit.

He mentioned that when I was jumping my car, I should have at least gotten interior dash lights turning on, even if it wouldn't turn over.

Since my car is down in an basement parking garage, a tow will likely be pretty expensive, is there anything I can do on my own to test the mechanic's claim that it's likely the electric system instead of the battery?

I cleaned the battery terminals and am going to try jumping it again this morning.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't guess at these things. You simply take the battery in and have it charged and tested.

Response From sad_honda

Fellows, I took your advice and signed up for a long overdue AAA membership. It turns out my cables weren't strong enough and AAA was able to give me enough of a boost to make it to the nearest service shop to pick up a new battery.

In short, she's back and purring as usual.

My thanks to all, especially Tom and Hammertime, I'm very appreciative as I hadn't even considered swapping out the cables.

Response From Hammer Time

AAA is OK for roadside rescue. Just don't ever buy a battery from them. They are the absolute worst. Not only are the batteries junk but they will not stand behind them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good to hear. I would think they would carry the highest quality. Standing behind it means nothing to me anyway - I don't want surprises for myself or anyone. You know what dept store sells them cheap and the failure rate is insane. They stand behind them too but what a nightmare if away or worse newer vehicles sustaining electrical damage over it. No bargain.

For that matter, cheaping out on almost anything doesn't pay off,

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

We are a AAA authorized shop and their 800 number is constantly sending their battery customers to us. We can determine in 5 minutes that the battery is wasted and not coming back and they won't authorize a replacement until it has been slow charged for 3 days and then they send their own guy out to test it. The customer usually says to hell with them and just buys a battery from us.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Apologize to "sad honda'' that we went off your exact topic. Never dealt with a battery from them so no direct way to know the scoop. Making someone slow charge for 3 days isn't fair IMO to get another if defective.

Not much now but did do some off AAA work for broken down people as I used to carry a ton of stuff. 12V compressor, plug kit for tires, small floor jack, oil, antifreeze and water, gas and let them get reimbursed.

This last disaster Winter didn't my Mother need a jump. Well. AAA's phone was either busy or no answer there must have been such an overload! I couldn't get near the thing, snow from clearing it was up to my neck to even open the hood. Jumpers didn't reach anyway and no way with anything I have to pull it back where it's parked. Car was beside it too so shoot. Keep a good batter just because on bench here, shoveled in to open hood, jumped it from a battery out of a vehicle closer and it worked like a good jumper box. Mine is old and only good for partially low batteries not as dead as that was.

Said - I'm out of this stuff and that case the Suburban could have waited but I plow out the mess after moving it too as I can. It's that or shovel it which that place would do but you would have to be there waiting as there really isn't a wide choice of other already clear places to park. Stinks. Hey - this was exceptional amounts of snow that really didn't hurt anything but made parking lots and roads quite narrow for a good while - not smiling Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again I think you'll only need a battery but check it out while there for charging system. Yes - at least around me AAA specifically is awesome. They deal with all kinds of precarious situations AND notice you get a list of places to get a discount, here the do DMV work for members too with no lines - yeah.

Here - the tow drivers are good. Not necessarily fully polished mechanics but good at some basics. They know how to tow odd situations AND carry a stock of new batteries too. Haven't bought one from them yet but may just to see how good they are - the batteries. I'll put it in. I'm overdue on a few that work fine just from age.

I'll explain a bit more than you may want to know. Inside is 6 cells of lead coated plates in series makes it a 12V battery. Those plates normally flake and that junk collects on bottom with room for a bit. If the pile of flakes can touch the bottom of the plates the battery itself shorts inside. They have a life because of the flaking away and the debris build up always losing some cold cranking amps over the years from when new but acceptable for years if good.

My take on your current battery is that at best it's hurt. May work, take a charge and show OK but I worry about "flat" batteries" as already said.

I think you'll be in good shape,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Do you get a strong reaction when hooking up jumper cables? Battery itself could be shorted inside. Jumps are mostly not suggested when at all possible but rather charge the battery or a jumper box not another vehicle. If you have power where it is charge the battery by charger. Many/most will or should be automatic and tell you it's low, medium then fully charged and shut itself off.

That or take it out and charge it or have it checked and charged. Some other short somewhere isn't going to be found until you have it out of there to check for that but it may not have one.

Sorry if repeat but a batter just sitting dead can be destroyed no matter how new. They just don't like being "flat" at all.

Also whatever jumpers you are using counts a lot. With a seriously dead battery you need some serious cables if done that way and most are cheap junk.

My own cost over $100 bucks ~ 30 years ago and will start a car without a battery in it like nothing with strong grips with teeth that don't fail. Fine strand copper, heavy gauge like #1 which is thick and strong.

To me sitting 3 mo. in a garage and suddenly having more than a dead battery seems odd if all was well when parked. Do you have a road service like AAA or anything? They'll have a strong jumper box and go in the garage first not just tow it out and try to get it going. That's routine for those services.

Other: I'm actually shocked that a place didn't sell you a battery if you asked for one whether it needed it or not! This has gone on too long now and should be basic,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That battery is junk almost for sure if no lights after 15 min jump. The trickle chargers are cheap. The "floating" ones automatically come on and shut off as needed.

Have several now on assorted things rarely used and batteries seem to last tons longer in general with them. Actually found them at WallyWorld ~$25. and some major parts outlets about the same. You would want an automatic one as overcharging is NG either. Fast charging is hard on the dang batteries too which shops will use because you can't wait 24 hours with the things I'm talking about.

5 year old battery isn't worth trying to save IMO. That's enough for most anyway so no loss in just getting a new one.
Not cheap but go for quality - it matters.

Good luck - you'll be fine but do check that it's charging after installation and running too,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Still would be nice to know why it sat so long.

Response From Discretesignals

Why has it been sitting for 3 months?