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Bendix
2002 Cadillac Escalade Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix Semi-Metallic

P311-0EA2ACD    MKD974A  New

Qty:
$50.28
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad
  • Bendix Semi-Metallic
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Cadillac Escalade RWD Rear
Bendix
1988 Cadillac Cimarron Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix TitaniuMetallic II

P311-517E69C    MKD289  New

Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1988 - Cadillac Cimarron Front
Centric
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Disc Brake Pad - Front Centric - C-TEK Ceramic Brake Pads

P311-1788DAB    103.05050  New

Qty:
$19.56
Centric Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • C-Tek Ceramic Brake Pads with Shims
  • C-TEK Ceramic Brake Pads
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Cadillac Eldorado Front
Centric
1991 Cadillac DeVille Disc Brake Pad - Front Centric - C-TEK Ceramic Brake Pads

P311-1788DAB    103.05050  New

Qty:
$19.56
Centric Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • C-Tek Ceramic Brake Pads with Shims
  • Std Duty
  • C-TEK Ceramic Brake Pads
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Cadillac DeVille Front
Monroe
1994 Cadillac Seville Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Ceramic Brake Pads

P311-1E182BD    CX508A  New

18024931 , 18043995 , 19152498 , 18043346 , 88955463 , 18047994 , 18029883 , 88964119 , 18029826 , 18024926 , 21012856 , 18043999 , 89026844 , 18045380 , 18042442 , 19210706 , 19152666

Qty:
$34.99
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • with 4 Wire Wear Sensors; Hardware Kit Included
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Ceramic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Cadillac Seville Rear
Monroe
1998 Cadillac Eldorado Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-59A3A6E    DX508A  New

19152666 , 18043346 , 18029826 , 19210706 , 88955463 , 89026844 , 18043995 , 18045380 , 19152498 , 18024926 , 88964119 , 21012856 , 18047994 , 18042442 , 18043999 , 18024931 , 18029883

Qty:
$31.62
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • with 4 Wire Wear Sensors; OE Recommended; Hardware Kit Included
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Cadillac Eldorado Rear
Monroe
1997 Cadillac DeVille Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Ceramic Brake Pads

P311-1E182BD    CX508A  New

18024931 , 18043995 , 19152498 , 18043346 , 88955463 , 18047994 , 18029883 , 88964119 , 18029826 , 18024926 , 21012856 , 18043999 , 89026844 , 18045380 , 18042442 , 19210706 , 19152666

Qty:
$34.99
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • with 4 Wear Sensors; Hardware Kit Included
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Ceramic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Cadillac DeVille Rear
Monroe
1996 Cadillac DeVille Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-59A3A6E    DX508A  New

19152666 , 18043346 , 18029826 , 19210706 , 88955463 , 89026844 , 18043995 , 18045380 , 19152498 , 18024926 , 88964119 , 21012856 , 18047994 , 18042442 , 18043999 , 18024931 , 18029883

Qty:
$31.62
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • with 4 Wear Sensors; OE Recommended; Hardware Kit Included
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Cadillac DeVille Rear

Latest Cadillac Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Just replaced front brake pads and rotors, but my brakes arent working.

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From hcfan101 on Just replaced front brake pads and rotors, but my brakes arent working.

I bled them and everything, tightened all bolts, still no pressure on the brakes.

Response From hcfan101

????

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sidom was on this so I left it alone but see it's been a couple days - sorry. Know we are all volunteers and most work full time. There could be a computer problem - sorry.

OK: I'll butt in and say when you've done brake work and can't get a "pedal" as I'll call it then there's either air still in the system after bleeding or many times on an older car especially the master cylinder in the course of bleeding manually which is common has just travelled into a new area of its bore which could be all crusty and tore the seals up right away and may bleed but not hold pressure again.

There are some other possibilities but not so common to me with this car.

Ideas for the fix. Plug off master cylinder and see if it will hold firmly. Try on car bench bleeding if it went dry of fluid air gets trapped and may not be so easy to get out. Usually that would result in a soft pedal but not NO pedal!

Some ABS systems will have specific procedures for bleeding if exposed. Just pads and rotors shouldn't have violated the hydraulics if system wasn't wide open. Most 91s didn't have ABS but could have.

My gut feeling is that the master cylinder tore up it's seals if there's no other seen issues. They don't leak in general when they do that - well yes but internally unseen not on the ground.

Best when saving calipers to retract the pistons by letting fluid out thru bleeder not pushing old fluid back up to master which is tricky to do and many don't. That's where the junky fluid would have accumulated from heat, any rust and just pushing that back up to master is really a no-no but done all the time especially by DIYers but shops have been known to do that too.

Again - my guess so far is master cylinder gave out even if not the original problem it very well could be now as said. IMO, a new one is not wasting money in that old of a car as it is a wearing part. Means you have to bleed out backs too if replaced too,

T

Response From Sidom

You called Tom.......It's been busy

Looks like you've said the same thing I would..... Does sound like the masters gone south.


You or anyone is never butting in, as always jump in with the solid advise.......

Response From hcfan101

Thank you very much, if thats not the problem ill let you know

Response From Sidom

Knowing what type of vehicle you are working on would help?

When you say you have no brks, do you mean the pedal is going all the way to the floor?

Response From hcfan101 Top Rated Answer

its a 1991 cadillac deville, and yes the pedal goes to the floor all the way

HARD TIME PUSHING REAR CALIPER IN ON 1999 DEVILLE

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on HARD TIME PUSHING REAR CALIPER IN ON 1999 DEVILLE

1999 CADILLAC DEVILLE NORTHSTAR, DISC BRAKES ALL THE WAY AROUND, 111,000 MILES WITH A4.6

Response From Guest

Depending on how hard you "pushed" you may be looking at the minimun of a new piston or possibly caliper.....

Response From way2old

I think they screw in.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Yea you’re right TOM the caliper piston must be rotated, while applying a light inward force on the piston. There is a tool available to do this; that makes this chore a lot easier. Once you have the piston all the way back in its bore; you must line up the detent(s) in the piston, so that the location pin on the brake pad fits into the detent.
None of my business but what’s a Cadillac owner doing his own brakes? I can’t picture someone in their three piece suit and designer shoes; sitting on their butt in the driveway; busting their knuckles on a brake caliper. LOL
Just joking.

Dan.

Streeing wheel pulses (shakes) when applying brakes

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Streeing wheel pulses (shakes) when applying brakes

Hello,
I have a 1998 Cadillac Catera with I believe has front and rear abs brakes. When I apply the brakes the steering wheel pulses (shakes). The brake monitor light is not lit I suspect it has something to do with the brakes. Does anyone know what could cause this and could it be repaired at a brake speciality shop ?

Thank You,
Melissa

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

More than likely you need to have the brake pads replaced and have the rotors machined or replaced. If the rotors get "warped", you will feel the pulsation in the steering wheel when braking.

Response From scorpion1tds

the rotors are warped this happens on all front wheel drives unless you torque the wheels on usually about 100 lbs for steel rims and about 120 for alum measure the thickness of the rotors they may not be machineable usually new are not that much at a local jobber you can use cheap rotors with ceramic pads and this will last as long as regular pads

Front rotors

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From GA_Boy on Front rotors

Hi, First time poster.
2003 Cadillac Deville, V8, 60K miles
Front wheel drive 4 dr. sedan

Shimmed a little when braking. I had a new set of tires installed and a complete alignment. All sterring compnonets, linkage, etc. were fine.
That didn't help the shimmy so I figure front rotors need replacing. Brake pads are 80%.
Question: Is this something I can do at home? Any special tools needed? I am very mechanically inclined but have never done this on a later model. I understand that the rotors are seperate from the Hub so ne need to fool with bearings.
Thanks, Marvin

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anything is doable but will depend on your tools available and basic know how. Remember that new rotor will naturally be thicker than the old ones so you need to know how to retract the piston of the caliper for clearance for new OR if those rotors have enough meat on them have those turned to true again and you won't have to mess with pushing back the caliper piston.

Many cars and dunno for sure on this will hold caliper with bracket that will need to be removed to remove the rotor.

Lube pins the slide with proper brake lube and areas that slide sparingly so it can't get on friction surfaces. Also - either way you really should replace the pads with new as they are already worn to match the old rotors and won't match perfectly on either machined or new rotors.

Are you up for this?

T

Response From GA_Boy

Thanks Tom, I will install new shoes also with the new rotors---thanks for the reminder. In the past on other cars I've used the old pad and a "C" clamp to push the plunger back in. I wasn't sure if this would work on the Caddy. I guess they still give the little tube of anti-squeel stuff for the back side of the pads.
Marvin

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This car no doubt has anti-lock brakes and all the EXPENSIVE parts (hydraulic) that go with it. It's best to VERY carefully push piston back only as far as needed slowly using the bleeder carefully such that NO air can get in! That way you are not pushing old fluid back thru the system. You should be able to do this with a clear tube into some new (submerged) brake fluid into a clean clear jar but again only go back as far as is needed to clear new pads. Also - don't push brake pedal to floor to set pads but rather just go part way till you feel a good pedal again.

Used to do it all the time but no longer plain push them back. That and while there would bleed them too which you may need a special procedure to do that I don't have software for so be warned,

T

(edit to fix typo)

Response From GA_Boy

Tom, You have brought up some very good points that this old man didn't think of or even know. I guess I'll just keep working on my '67 VW Baja and let a real Mechanic work on the Caddy. My shade tree ain't big enough for this one. LOL
Thanks again, Marvin

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree - when in doubt let the pros do it. Amazing that something that really is essentially basic can cause problem you don't want.

Good luck,

T

CTS front brakes

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From chili34 on CTS front brakes

2004 Cadillac CTS, 3.6 eng. w/sport suspension, 4W ABS, 29000 miles , not "V"

Just re-did my front wheel brakes. Inboard side of both rotors are severely rusted and needed replacement. The outboard side of both rotors were clean and smooth. Left side inboard pad had partly separated from the backing but was not frozen as it fell out when the caliper was removed. The left inboard pad looked worn but ok. It was not frozen either. Brake fluid was at the full mark. The anti rattle pieces were dirty but not sticking. I replaced them anyway.

My question is; what caused the inboard rotor surfaces to severely rust, unless the inboard pads (both) were not wiping the rotor (but both pads were worn)? And will the problem reoccur?

Response From chili34

Thanks guys for taking time to address my problem with rusted rotors. I'll go with the low mileage as a probable cause for the CTS. I live near Chicago and the amount of salt used on our roads may be the real culprete. The cars are garaged unheated indoors and perhaps that slowed drying time. All the snow and melt on the floor raise the humidity. For the repair I used Centric upgrade rotors with ceramic disc pads. I hope they last.
But I've a 2003 Honda Element with fewer miles and those rotors are fine. In all the years I have owned cars this CTS is the first one to have this problem.

Response From Hammer Time

One other thing you want to look at here are the caliper slides. Frozen slides will commonly do that because it will keep the outboard pad partially applied all the time.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You said it all - Chicago! Same rust issues as here. Jeez - they use more salt than it snow sometimes and it does a number on cars overall and brakes included.

You picked what I like best - Centric rotors are awesome and worth the couple extra bucks and I did use ceramic in two so far (retired now) and they are holding up beautifully. With those the big claim was no noise and long life without brake fade - I don't drive mountains enough to test that.

You should be all set now but take a good look at the cheap brake pads for another model. Dang - they almost start rusting in the box!

T

Response From Sidom

Interesting Tom, I'm sure you've run into and have some solutions for problems I'll probably never see due to rust being outlawed back in the 90s in CA so we never see it..........

The cars that do roll in for brk & suspension work with East coast plates usually go to the Jr techs.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sidom - It can border on OUTRAGEOUS here! I've had to replace entire rear differentials because the housing rusted so bad it couldn't center coil springs and nobody wanted to touch that.

Frames rust - even strong box beamed ones fall right to the road along with the older bumpers with the absorption things rot right out and the dang bumpers fall right off! That's what you were supposed to jack those type cars up by with the jacks that come with them! Jeez - talk about corrosive. You heard of bridge girder steel rotting right thru too I'm sure.

I don't know why they still use plain rock salt except it's lots cheaper than alternatives. Spent a Winter in Colorado ages ago now and they outlawed use of salt! Instead they just used the slag (dark crunchy soot) from coal burning electric plants which didn't hurt a thing but sure was dirty but you could safely use it and not hurt water supplies.

Arggh!

T

Response From nickwarner

Here in Wisconsin they use salt like its a religion. Any car older than about 2002 requires underbody parts to get torched to get out half the time. Brake lines rust through and break so often I keep a 25 foot coil of steel line in stock at all times because I never have to worry about it gathering dust. I've probably done the better part of 400 feet of line in the last year! I've had trucks with frames so rusted that they cracked when I tried to lift them up on the hoist. Salt is evil.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I find by the time and it happens here in Rustachusetts a lot. IMO at the low miles and if calipers are really free then I'm blaming that the pads don't (obvious with one) hit/touch properly as the reason for that.

Guess is inboards don't dry out as fast so will do that first or at least the last 10 sets (happens that much) the "asbestos" falls off entirely or chunks more on inboard.

To add: That means just looking thru the wheel to guess at how good your brakes are just ain't good enough!

More: Some replacement rotors are much less apt to have issues as well as the pads. That's why there are price differences you may have noticed doing this yourself,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add to the whole issue:

Low mile and especially outdoor stored vehicles it's worth taking calipers off for complete inspection and re-lubing the pin/spots that are supposed to be free. No lube on friction surfaces of course.

Another issue is rotors that just pull off of hub rust between rotor and hub unseen which must be scraped off clean. I will VERY sparingly use high temp grease to about stop that from recurrence. Don't use gobs of grease - it gets warm/hot there and you don't need grease getting all over the place especially on the friction surfaces.

Rotor rust, pad separation and the hub to rotor thing is so common that some new cars that are a year or more old have to get all new stuff with no miles yet on them!

The surface area is shinned up clean with use of the brakes. I've seen them "gun" rust simply overnite in wet outdoor cars just looking thru the wheel! Ugly - and you can't paint that up as it's a friction surface - arggh,

T