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Best Selling Genuine International Brake Hoses

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Centric
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of International Replacement Brake Hose Parts
Centric
1973 International MS1210 Brake Hydraulic Hose - Front Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-5156CD5    150.68000  New

Qty:
$14.06
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1973 - International MS1210 Front
Centric
1952 International LM150 Brake Hydraulic Hose - Rear Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-5156CD5    150.68000  New

Qty:
$14.06
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Rear
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1952 - International LM150 Rear
Centric
1967 International 1200B Brake Hydraulic Hose - Front Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-06BFA6B    150.67002  New

Qty:
$11.89
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1967 - International 1200B RWD Front
Centric
1967 International 1000B Brake Hydraulic Hose - Rear Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-06BFA6B    150.67002  New

Qty:
$11.89
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Rear
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1967 - International 1000B Rear
Centric
1982 International S1624 Brake Hydraulic Hose - Front Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-5156CD5    150.68000  New

Qty:
$14.06
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • 101FA 15" x 3 1/2" Brakes, 71FA 73FA
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - International S1624 Front
Centric
1982 International S1624 Brake Hydraulic Hose - Front Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-5156CD5    150.68000  New

Qty:
$14.06
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • 101FA 15" x 3" Brakes 71FA 73FA
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - International S1624 Front
Centric
1967 International 908B Brake Hydraulic Hose - Front Centric - Brake Hydraulic Hoses

P311-06BFA6B    150.67002  New

Qty:
$11.89
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • 12" Front Drum
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1967 - International 908B Front
Centric
Qty:
$11.89
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • 11" Rear Drum
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1971 - International Scout RWD Front L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2491
Centric
Qty:
$17.20
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front Right
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - International Scout II Front Right
Centric
Qty:
$17.20
Centric Brake Hydraulic Hose  Front Left
  • Centric Brake Hose
  • Brake Hydraulic Hoses
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - International Scout II Front Left

Latest International Repair and Brake Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

brakes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on brakes

I recently bought a 1989 Chrysler NewYorker, my brakes are locked and nobody can figure out how to unlock them any suggestions

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

What exactly is/are locked up?

Front brakes/rear brakes ,parking brake,all?
Who is "nobody"

Has a qualified mechanic/technician looked at the vehicle?

If it has been looked at with no result...if it is the front brakes not releasing,very possibly it is the front brake hoses.,the flexible ones that go to the calipers..they can /do collapse internally and won't let the brakes release.

brake pads dragging

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on brake pads dragging

Hi, I have a 2002 lexus is300, with 82,000 miles on it. I just replaced the rear brakes, including rotors, calipers and pads. I bled the brakes good, and I have one of the pads dragging pretty bad. Any ideas what could be causing this? The calipers are also 2 pistons, and the pads are seated correctly in the calipers, i've checked that several times already. Thanks

Response From Guest

Take the wheel back off, remove the caliper, make sure the rotor is seated properly and grease the slider pins

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There are basically 3 things that will cause that in only one wheel

  1. Caliper piston is binding in caliper
  2. One or more of the caliper slides is frozen
  3. rubber brake hose is ruptured internally and restriction return flow of the brake fluid

front brake

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on front brake

i have a 94 gmc half ton pickup the drivers side brake was dragging then would almost lock up. so i replaced the caliper and the bolts and sleeves the bolts slide in and still having the same problem . it will do fine for a while and then gradually build up pressure and start dragging .i let it set overnight and its okay for a while the next day . any thoughts or suggestions?

Response From Guest

thanks i will give that a try

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Usually when this occurs its the caliper and or guides/sleeves,which you replaced, and /or the rubber brake hoses to the front caliper(s).
The hoses restrict/collapse internally and wont let the fluid return.
Simple way to check ,when its dragging/binding,crack open the bleeder on the caliper and if the fluid shoots out and it frees up,thats it.
You should have noticed something when bleeding after replacing the caliper.
It is recommended to replace both front hoses if thats the failure.

There was someone on here recently with a foreign car that had a similar concern that turned out to be a faulty brake booster.
I personally have never replaced a booster on a gm vehicle for one wheel locking up.
Usually always is the caliper or brake hose.
My money is on the hose.

See what the others say
Good luck
Jim

Response From dave284

Jim's right, the brake hoses over time collapse or start to brake down leaving pieces of the rubber lining in the fluid and stopping up the pin size hole in the caliber.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


The brake hoses can fail like a "Reed Valve" shown square above and a flap of rubber allows pressure to pass thru to apply brake as in the arrows shown but then can't return so that brake stays applied. It then gets warm and expands applying more braking force. When all cooled down fluid contracts and may behave which is just another means to cause hair loss in auto repair.

As Jim said. If you just crack open the bleeder a tad the dragging wheel will free right up if this is in fact happening which it almost certainly is,

T

Help with brake problem

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From eddie haskell on Help with brake problem

I have a 2004 F-150 that is experiencing intermittent brake problems. The right rear wheel will get to the point of smoking.....you can feel it grabbing too. Other times, it seems fine. I have pulled the wheel, thinking it might be in the parking break, but that appears fine. The caliber plunger (is that what its called??) is extended out, but I don't know if that is any indication of anything or not. It seems to be the caliber is not releasing the hydraulic pressure on the pads. Does that sound right? Would a new caliber remedy my problem?

Thank you

Response From eddie haskell

Yes...I live in the Pacific Northwest, with a lot of rain, some snow, and boat launching. I rinse after each use, and try not to put my tires in the water, but at times a wave will roll up onto the ramp, to the depth on my axle

I find a lot of rust, debris, inside the drum, but the emergency brake shoes showed no wear. I also noticed a shine to the disk pad, and it did in fact seem to round a bit (wear) on the ends of the disk, one end more so...that I found odd, thinking wear should be even through out the whole pad surface.

Thank you guys....much appreciated

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Boat launching: Drum brakes can handle being submerged better with the wheel cylinder rather than caliper. Of course they don't dry out so brakes don't work at all for a while. Splashing isn't so bad. The brakes and air under the dust seals is warm and when cooled it sucks in the water - salt is much worse. Same bull with the trailer bearings, lighting and all that stuff.

I miss boating sometimes even with all the headaches,

T

Response From eddie haskell

Hey Tom....I have a Boston Whaler too ( I saw your location ).

I believe I got er fixed

What I did was to pull everything apart at the wheel. Put the caliper on a bench and had to use a C clamp to move the piston back in....dang it was hard!

I knew I was on the right track with that. I would give it a good soak of penetrating solution, then hook her back up to the brake line (hydraulic) start up the engine and pumped the brake a few times to get the piston to move out. Repeated till I had less resistance in depressing the piston (moving back in). After I felt I had "freed" up the movement, I popped it out and boy, what a bunch of gunk got inside

Cleaned her good, reassembled, filled MC and bled lines. Test drove, checked for leaks, etc, and good to go....

Thanks all!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

BACK!! Did you say you put the caliper in penetrating fluid!!?? NO! The rubber parts won't take oils only brake fluid products or the rubber will swell and fail. If you used a non rubber friendly solvent that caliper must be removed and replaced NOW! Correct me guys if I'm wrong but rubber brake parts historically are not tolerant of oil based products,

T

Response From dave284

You're on the right track,another sign of a sticking caliber is crystalizing thats a mirror-like shine on the rotor and pad.The brake hose to the caliber could cause the same problem. And if you saw smoke there is a chance that the rotor and /or wheel bearing might be damaged from the heat too.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add: If the PISTON(s) in a caliper are extended it indicates pads and or rotors are worn thin and the piston is compensating for that. At some point they can "cock" a tad and don't retract. The only force to retract them is the rubber seal unseen and it's not that powerful. Various ways to make a parking brake are a problem also. Does this one use the caliper or a small drum brake inside the rotor - also unseen without removing the caliper and rotor. Follow where cable goes to see what is the parking brake.

Calipers can also stick from corrosion, usually moisture that gets in thru the dust/water seal and very problematic if they are submerged in water for any reason - launching boats, floods or just plain driving thru deep water is a killer for brakes,

T

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

If you open the bleeder and the piston can be pushed in easily, more than likely it is the brake hose that has collapsed internally. (not real likely on 2004 but possible) If the piston is hard to push in, the caliper is the problem.

new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ordinerryjoe on new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

Hi all.
I just installed new brake pads and rotors in my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. It was pulsating badly. Now it brakes very nicely. However, after an 8 mile drive, I noticed a smell when I got out of the car. The wheel and tire on the drivers side was quite warm and the burning smell was coming from that side. The other side is OK. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have a brake that's not releasing properly. This could very likely be what ruined your old rotors.
It could be due to frozen caliper slides, frozen caliper pistons or internally ruptured flex brake hoses in front. I would probably replace the calipers and hoses but make sure you do it on BOTH sides, not just one. Check the movement of the slides in the process.

Response From ordinerryjoe

Thanks for the reply. The possibility of a bad caliper makes sense. If I had a ruptured hose somewhere, wouldn't I notice that I was losing brake fluid at the master cylinder? It remains full and has remained full.

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time

No, not at all. They rupture internally and restrict the fluid flow going back to release the brake. It applies it OK because of the pressure but doesn't release properly. It's a very common cause of disc brakes staying applied.