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PBR
1989 Ford Probe Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-1932385    W0133-1632751  New

Qty:
$9.80
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Rear Disc Brakes
  • Rear - Right
Brand: PBR
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1989 - Ford Probe
PBR
1990 Ford Probe Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-1932385    W0133-1632751  New

Qty:
$9.80
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear - Right
Brand: PBR
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1990 - Ford Probe
PBR
1991 Ford F-250 Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-01CE060    W0133-1850865  New

Qty:
$18.18
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: PBR
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1991 - Ford F-250
PBR
1991 Ford Explorer Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-3A28375    W0133-1633548  New

Qty:
$26.61
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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1991 - Ford Explorer
PBR
1983 Ford F-250 Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-190EA2B    W0133-1634306  New

Qty:
$21.43
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: PBR
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1983 - Ford F-250
PBR
1993 Ford Explorer Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-377CF56    W0133-1630788  New

Qty:
$30.01
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Right
Brand: PBR
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1993 - Ford Explorer
PBR
1993 Ford Explorer Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-4024E85    W0133-1631405  New

Qty:
$28.51
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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1993 - Ford Explorer
PBR
1990 Ford Aerostar Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-23F2BBA    W0133-1635072  New

Qty:
$7.54
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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1990 - Ford Aerostar
PBR
1995 Ford F-250 Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-56FEC37    W0133-1631627  New

Qty:
$8.35
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Over 8,500lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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1995 - Ford F-250
PBR
1998 Ford F-250 Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-56FEC37    W0133-1631627  New

Qty:
$8.35
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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1998 - Ford F-250
Dorman
2001 Ford Excursion Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Includes The Vacuum Hose from 3C124 to Knuckle
Brand: Dorman
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2001 - Ford Excursion
Dorman
2000 Ford F-350 Super Duty Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Automatic Locking HubsIncl.Vacuum Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2000 - Ford F-350 Super Duty
Dorman
2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Automatic Locking Hubs
Brand: Dorman
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2004 - Ford F-250 Super Duty
Dorman
2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • with GBW Over 8,500lbs, with Automatic Locking Hub
Brand: Dorman
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2004 - Ford F-350 Super Duty
Dorman
1999 Ford F-350 Super Duty Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • with Over 8,500 Gross Vehicle Weight, with Auto Hub Lock
Brand: Dorman
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1999 - Ford F-350 Super Duty
Dorman
2000 Ford Excursion Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4BBCADB    W0133-1896564  New

Qty:
$28.65
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2000 - Ford Excursion
Dorman
2004 Ford Expedition Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-08D1DF1    W0133-1870694  New

Qty:
$48.93
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2004 - Ford Expedition
Dorman
2004 Ford F-150 Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-0139E22    W0133-2038459  New

Qty:
$32.92
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Front Right
Brand: Dorman
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2004 - Ford F-150
Dorman
2004 Ford F-150 Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-56D08FF    W0133-2038460  New

Qty:
$28.00
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Front Left
Brand: Dorman
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2004 - Ford F-150
Dorman
2006 Ford Escape Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-460586A    W0133-1900920  New

Qty:
$22.02
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2006 - Ford Escape

Latest Ford Repair and Brake Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

ford e 350 brakes

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From stevec on ford e 350 brakes

1994 ford e 350 passenger van. 5.8 liter 80000 miles.
just bought van. pulled to the left while braking. replaced rotors,calipers, rubber brake hoses. abs light intermittent but does not flash. after i installed brake hoses pulling went away for a day or so. now it is pulling to the left again.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Have a check of the front suspension and steering components; as in ball joints, control arm bushings and tie rods.
Even though this likely is only pulling while the brakes are applied; it could be caused by an alignment angle changing/shifting while braking, due to worn suspension & steering parts?

Dan.

Response From stevec

Thanks Dan, I have looked at the front end parts but I think I am going to take it to a buddy of mine that works at an alignment shop. A lot of times you cant see anything with the naked eye. It could be possible that you are correct because it really does not pull under 25 mph. I sure hate to take it to the Ford garage $$$$. What part of Canada are you in? thanks for the reply!

Response From DanD

Southwestern Ontario in the great little City of London; its half way between Toronto and Windsor, Approx 2 hours to either city.
Windsor shares the boarder with Detroit.

Dan.

Response From chickenhouse

Was closer than I knew Dan! Went through Detroit last month! Been to Windsor many times, Ambassador Bridge and the tunnel.

Brake Pull

Showing 3 out of 20 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From fuzzy1 on Brake Pull

Hello, I have a 2001 Ford F350 7.3L 65,000 miles.
Truck suddenly started pulling to the right a few days ago. I have replaced both calipers, hoses, pads- had 2 bad ball joints and replaced them as well. Im out of ideas and really have no where else to go. If you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks, Fuzzy

Response From Sidom

Just to add a little....Long thread & it's possible I might of skimmed over it but I didn't see the radius arm bushings mentioned. I'm assuming its a 2WD unless I missed that to

Those are good for the right side going out also. Definately wanna take a look at those.........

Response From fuzzy1

Ok here is the latest scoop. I agree the problem is in the left front. I have replaced the pads again and the left front caliper. Tried crimping off the rear brake hose and this made no change. Crimped off the right front hose and steering wheel will completly spin itself to the left side stop at a crawling speed. This vehicle is a 4wd. Wheel bearings are good. Remember already had left front apart to install ball joints. Yes the problem had occured before any brake parts were replaced. Vehicle was used all day, then at one point I came to stop at light and pull just started. Been pulling ever since. Air in the system is very doubtfull. I have manually bled and bled and bled and bled and then just gravity bled and bled and bled all four wheels. Rotated all six tires and still no change.

Response From Hammer Time


Crimped off the right front hose and steering wheel will completly spin itself to the left side stop at a crawling speed.

Is it that severe if you crimp the other side instead?

Could there be a difference in the caliper pistons that you didn't notice before?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Count me in the new club that if you crimped a brake hose you'd better replace it! They can act like "Reed" valves witout help from being crimped,

T

Response From BWilly

Re: Brake Pull
Owner of 2000, F-350 7.3L Super Duty, Auto 4 WD, Dual Rear, w/ 4 Wheel ABS - 150,000 mi. Hey guys, I too have the same issue as Fuzzy1, though not as sever. This is actually a common problem for me and I have replaced the front left brake system, (Pads, Rotors, Calipers, Bearings, Hoses), three times due to completely worn before the passenger side... and once the Front Left Axle too! I am currently rebuilding the Front brakes again and, of course, I am having problems after replacing both Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Bleed all 4 wheels and a new Bearing on the Left Side. It pulls to the left when braking yet the right side pads are sticking and over-heating, (a common recuring problem for me). I do as well experience sever bouncing when braking hard. Because, I pull 25,000 lb. loads from time to time this truck is worked hard and doesn't get the maintenance on time when it should. Shame on me! Though I haven't yet gone through all the rechecks that you guys suggested to Fuzzy1, (and I will), I sympathize with him and some of your solutions for him to check. They are a bit basic and this guy is looking for something less obvious and maybe more specific and common to Fords. That's what I'm hoping for when I google this problem. I offer this only as it is a solution I have never come across before. I stumbled across this Post regarding the following issue:LINK DELETED 99 f350 4x4 v10 brake problems "anyone having brake problems, mine is pulling hard to passenger side during braking, any suggestions, i've allready tried bleeding and new pads." This posible solution eventually followed: "Had the same problem with mine, working at a ford dealer I talked to the front end guy, he said that it was one front shackle moving more then the other as the springs move causing the front axle to turn one way or the other. The fix is to torque the shackle alittle tighter then the other side. If it is pulling to the right during braking, tighten the right shackle, if it is pulling to the left tighten the right shackle." Though I don't yet know what a shackle is exactly, I have often felt that these springs that pushed the pads back from the rotors were a bit dodgy. Though I don't believe this is necessarily the solution to the braking left, but maybe it will help me with the over-heating brakes. Does anyone have any thoughts about this, and how would you adjust these springs? My Regards, BWilly


link deleted.........not allowed

Response From fuzzy1

Sorry forgot to mention, yes raidus arm bushings were mentioned but as everything else they checked out fine.

Response From canadian

Does your truck have anti-lock brakes? If so check sensors, dirt/ mud buildup, or possibly faulty sensor? Any codes showing on dash?

Response From Hammer Time

Are we just assuming this is a brake pull or does it actually only occur when braking?

Response From fuzzy1

ALL the above suggestions have been ruled out. First was the radial pull. no problem there. Starting truck and watching steering wheel checks out ok. Yes im sure it is only a brake problem, as described, it only pulls when braking. In fact the harder you push on the brake the more it pulls and as soon as you let up it straightens up. Front and rear brake pad wear is even. This pull started all at one time. Was driving truck all day then came up to a normal stop and it started pulling. Still could use some ideas.
Thanks, Fuzzy

Response From Tom Greenleaf

About now I'd be suspecting a problem with the new parts or hardware installation issues.

Any chance the pads are not identical or if they got oil on them?

T

Response From fuzzy1

well to be honest, after installing new calipers, pads, machine rotors, hoses and pad hardware it actually caused the pull to increase more upon stopping.
Im almost starting to suspect a master cylinder but I have no way to check fluid pressure at the calipers to see if they are equal side to side.
I am also sure that there is no contamination in the fluid or oil or grease on the pads. It was clean job start to finish.
This one is a puzzler I know. I dont want to keep swapping parts unless I can surley narrow it down, but I have already eliminated everything on the front axle.
Fuzzy

Response From Hammer Time

Have you even looked at the rear brakes? It is possible for them to do that.

Also make sure you didn't loop a twist into either front brake hose.

Response From fuzzy1

Again yes im sure there is nothing wrong with the hose. I have been doing this for over 20 years, and please dont take offense to this, but I know what im doing when it comes to brakes. I just happen to have a serious issue with this vehicle and im just not seeing what else could be causing this problem. I most certainly and whole heartedly take your advice serously but your giving me advice that a novice shade tree might need to check. I need someone to burn some brain cells to help me out.
I have been useing this forum for while now and your a great bunch of people and have been a real help everytime I have had a problem. In fact 3 weeks ago the advice I was given for Jeep problem fixed me up. Thanks very much. So again PLEASE dont be offended, im not trying to sound like a smart A##. Just asking for some real help.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

fuzzy; Went back and re-read the thread. This is pulling to the right under braking. The problem is surely in the LF.
Agree with Hammer, it's not a master cylinder problem. Was this doing it before the calipers were replaced? Did you overhaul the calipers or replace them with remans? Faulty caliper? Very long shot, but.... Air? Doubtfull. I keep going back to a front end problem, but if it was not doing this prior to the brakes?.... Pads. Like Hammer stated, sometimes we can't see the forest cause all of the damned trees are in the way! Tunnel vision, as Sidom would say... Wheel bearings? Don't overlook or assume anything. Good luck. And, please, let us know when you find out the culprit.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good possibility Hammer - making a pig tail out of a brake hose isn't a good thing. You about can't with most. IMO - back brakes don't generally cause a hard pulling feeling but this is a 1 ton truck and back brakes frequently do a lot more work than cars.

Hate to suggest taking this job all apart and redo, re lube hardware and bleed out again with new fluid. Rotors shouldn't be the cause of a pulling if I'm reading this right and in that it just happened with the work I suspect parts or an installation issue but I'm not there looking at it.

Non brake fluid added or used by accident is a disaster as Loren mentioned. If that happened an oil product will destroy rubber parts used in brakes. If an oil is just added it floats and should stay on top at reservoir and might be ok to suck it all out and bleed the heck out of the whole system.

BTW - Loren - I always wondered why your turkeys tasted funny! Laugh - I use them too but mark them as NEVER to go back to the kitchen!

T

Response From Hammer Time

If you have been doing this for a while then you know that 90% of the time when you get into a situation like this, you ultimately find out that the problem was right in front of you and you simply overlooked it or just assumed something that you shouldn't have. You have already hit the causes of this problem. If it's not a suspension issue, then it's something that you are looking right past so it's time to start over and look again at all the basics, that includes the rear brakes also. I might try pinching off the rear brake hose and driving it so see how it drives then.

It's not a master cylinder.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

fuzzy; This is a bit puzzling... Are the rotors close to the same thickness? Have you checked the brake fluid for contamination? Using a suction device, like your wife's turkey baster, take a sample of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Put it in a clear glass jar. Pour in some water and stir/shake it. It should go into a 'milky' like solution. If there is any petroleum pollutant in it, it will seperate and float to the top. (and don't blame me if your wife gets mad)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Check for worn (don't know if they still call them that) strut rod bushings. Can allow the lower control arm to move during braking, throwing off the caster angle.

Response From Hammer Time

The first thing to try is crossing the front tires. If the pull stops or changes direction, the tires are the problem. Radial pull is quite common.

If that does nothing for you, start the engine while observing the steering wheel and see if it jumps to one side when the engine starts indicating a power steering problem.

2008 Lincoln MKZ with extensive brake pedal travel

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Pete6114 on 2008 Lincoln MKZ with extensive brake pedal travel

I'm at a loss here..
This car has 55,000km on it
The dealer replaced the right rear caliper 2 month ago. When i got it back i noticed a difference in the brake pedal. It was not quite as firm as before but i did not take it back as it was not all that bad.
Last week, they replaced both front calipers.When i got it back, the brake pedal was spongy with excessive pedal travel before brakes start working. I do not get to the end but not far from it. My toe touches the metal arm, the pedal itself is mounted on.
Brakes where bled again, which resulted in a tiny bit of improvement but still have the excessive pedal travel problem.
Now they tell me that there is nothing wrong with the brakes.

( i do know that they did not use a machine to bleed brakes, as they just pinch the brake hose while working on brakes.?????
Apparently, according to the ford dealer this old way of bleeding is ok because no air gets into the ABS if they pinch the rubber brake hose.)

Point is that my brakes where just fine before caliper replacements. No new pads or rotors....just calipers been replaced.

Thank you for any and all replys.
Pete

Response From Pete6114

Hammer Time, Thank you for your great post
I have 2 questions

1.) Assuming they followed those instruction to the T, why would i end up with all that excessive pedal travel and not so hard pedal after caliper replacement that i did not have before?

2.) This is done under warranty, but if i was to buy a pressure bleeder for home use ( for future use after warranty expires ), which make and model of bleeder gives the best bang for the buck. I, so far have been driving fords only. Not sure if some bleeders are brand specific or not.

Thank you
Pete

Response From Hammer Time

There are varying sizes and styles of bleeders. They are a bit pricey for one time use. The bigger part of the expense is in the adapter package.
The vacuum type are cheaper but I don't think they will get the job done for you.


I have this one here and I use it quite often. It solves most bleeding issues.

http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2222.aspx

http://www.tooltopia.com/power-probe-bakit01.aspx

Response From Pete6114

I sure am not fond of it either.
Dealer told me today that he can NOT find another ford dealer within 50 miles that has the brake bleeding machine.
So, i wonder how they get air out of the HCU (Hydraulic control unit) or ABS?
Not sure if that's the case with my car ( personally, i think it is)
Sure is real troubling that not every dealership has the machine/ laptop and software required to properly bleed brakes.

Just venting here.....
I hope somebody has the answer in this forum and is willing to share it with me. Dealer wont.......!

Pete

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This info may help you. It applies to that car.
Pay close attention to the part about changing calipers. You shouldn't have to use a scan tool.
Your life would be a lot easier if you had a pressure bleeder though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A 2008! It needs proper brake bleeding by exact procedure I wouldn't have but dealer sure should! Just pinching off line on a fairly new vehicle? Not sure I like the idea for a brake hose at all as that will likely be a trouble spot later if not bubbled out now,

T