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Best Selling Genuine Chrysler Brake Hoses

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PBR
2003 Chrysler Sebring Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-097A359    W0133-1637617  New

Qty:
$9.27
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
2003 - Chrysler Sebring
Genuine
2004 Chrysler Sebring Brake Hydraulic Hose Genuine

P311-13D150C    W0133-1625281  New

Qty:
$20.17
Genuine Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler Sebring
Dorman
2004 Chrysler Sebring Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-0B3382E    W0133-1625281  New

Qty:
$17.46
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler Sebring
PBR
1985 Chrysler Executive Limousine Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-3504148    W0133-1633911  New

Qty:
$8.95
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Right
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
1985 - Chrysler Executive Limousine
PBR
1990 Chrysler TC Maserati Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-3504148    W0133-1633911  New

Qty:
$8.95
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: 3000-3000
  • Front - Right
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler TC Maserati
PBR
1985 Chrysler Executive Limousine Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-4B7CCE2    W0133-1634030  New

Qty:
$8.72
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Chrysler Executive Limousine
PBR
1990 Chrysler TC Maserati Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-4B7CCE2    W0133-1634030  New

Qty:
$8.72
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: 3000-3000
  • Front - Left
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler TC Maserati
PBR
1992 Chrysler LeBaron Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-0A0DC44    W0133-1631463  New

Qty:
$8.35
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: PBR
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1992 - Chrysler LeBaron
Dorman
2000 Chrysler Cirrus Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-29B6206    W0133-1669097  New

Qty:
$15.51
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2000 - Chrysler Cirrus
Dorman
2001 Chrysler Voyager Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-2E78D8A    W0133-1896037  New

Qty:
$25.98
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Single Piston Caliper
Brand: Dorman
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2001 - Chrysler Voyager
Dorman
2002 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-2E78D8A    W0133-1896037  New

Qty:
$25.98
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2002 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2001 Chrysler Voyager Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-3DDB1A7    W0133-1896036  New

Qty:
$27.74
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Single Piston Caliper
Brand: Dorman
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2001 - Chrysler Voyager
Dorman
2002 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-3DDB1A7    W0133-1896036  New

Qty:
$27.74
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2002 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2011 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-4185DB5    W0133-1966831  New

Qty:
$16.48
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2011 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2011 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-0310562    W0133-1967397  New

Qty:
$16.32
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2011 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2001 Chrysler Voyager Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-21D6165    W0133-1896035  New

Qty:
$45.14
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2001 - Chrysler Voyager
Dorman
2001 Chrysler Voyager Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-24D3E58    W0133-1896327  New

Qty:
$45.98
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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2001 - Chrysler Voyager
Dorman
2002 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-426C2D7    W0133-1896328  New

Qty:
$46.69
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2002 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2005 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-426C2D7    W0133-1896328  New

Qty:
$46.69
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Exc.Commercial ChassisExc.Floor StorageExc.Fold Away Seats
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2005 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2005 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-426C2D7    W0133-1896328  New

Qty:
$46.69
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • Exc.Floor StorageExc.Fold Away Seats
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2005 - Chrysler Town & Country

Latest Chrysler Repair and Brake Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

brakes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on brakes

I recently bought a 1989 Chrysler NewYorker, my brakes are locked and nobody can figure out how to unlock them any suggestions

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

What exactly is/are locked up?

Front brakes/rear brakes ,parking brake,all?
Who is "nobody"

Has a qualified mechanic/technician looked at the vehicle?

If it has been looked at with no result...if it is the front brakes not releasing,very possibly it is the front brake hoses.,the flexible ones that go to the calipers..they can /do collapse internally and won't let the brakes release.

Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From gstst4 on Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

I have a 2010 Chrysler town & country 3.8 with 62000 miles. I am having rear brake problems. I had humming at high speeds and smelling of burning brakes on the passenger side. Then as time passed it switched to the driver's side. Changed brake pads and passenger side rotor which had wear grooves. Everything seemed fine for about a month. Now the sound is back along with the smell back on the passenger's side. I've read that it could be the guide pins causing the sticking brakes, or could it be the caliber?

Response From jzr

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair. In other words promising Nordstrom on a 7-11 budget. Forget all the spilled milk discussions here. Get higher grade materials all around - Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors, Ceramic pads, heavier duty calipers and your nightmare will be over. YOU have to re-engineer the solution. After review of all the "advice" (okay), it will never resolve your problem, which is actually based on figuring out what is going to break next because of "UNPREDICTABLE" results engineering from Chrysler. Correction, what is PREDICTABLE is that this engineering is calculated to fail in the short term. If you don't follow this advice you will constantly be trying to figure out "now what is wrong" with your brakes, besides trying to figure out why did I buy this engineered lemon.

Response From Discretesignals

This thread is more than a year old. Closed to prevent spamming or hijacking.

Response From Hammer Time

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair.

Wow, we got a real genius on our hands here.

I hear Chrysler is looking to hire more physicists to design their cars. Maybe you should apply.

You might want to find out what a physicist is first though. Maybe you could invent Nuclear drive.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Could be caliper, seized guide pins, faulty brake hose, parking brake is on, and/or parking brake cables are seized causing something like that. Did you lubricate the slide pins when you had it apart?

Response From gstst4

I'll grease the guide pins first before I do anything and check everything over.

Response From Discretesignals

Make sure the pins slide back and forth when you remove the caliper. If they do, then remove them and put some brake grease on them.

Inspect the caliper parking brake arm on the caliper before you remove the caliper and make sure it is all the way released.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, lube with proper lube every time. Also - do something to one side do the same to the other. You said you just did passenger pads and rotor - not so good an idea and doesn't save anything in the long run,


T

Response From gstst4

No I did replace the padson both sides, but only replaced the rotor on the right side. Lubricated the guide pins. Mind you the smell of the brakes and hot wheel is not constant. It happens only at high speeds once in a while. Hopefully the grease will do the job. Any other suggestions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pins when lubed and good should just slide in your hands. What is harder to know if piston is intermittently sticking and about to freeze up or even flex hoses that can let pressure in but not out so that brake will drag if so.


Parking brake anything matters as well as I think this one uses a cam inside the caliper and is sprung to be off not applied and should retract to complete OFF. Wheels should spin free when hoisted with either rotor fastened or wheel back on. No drag.


If anytime you find one side of brake pads or shoes for drums worn more than the other side there's a problem to fix not just replace them pads and rotors even. Gotta find out why one was different - it's brakes - no games!


One thing that is real bad for brake caliper is if they get submersed in water for any reason. They really are NOT water tight and any moisture between dust boot/seal can easily corrode piston or caliper wall and ruin them but cute as that happens much later than right before they get dunked if so, not just road spray from driving in the rain for instance,


T

Response From gstst4

No I'm sure I didn't. I feel I should just replace the caliber. That parking brake is tricky to deal with. I think that's the hardest part replacing the caliber besides bleeding the brakes after.

brakes problem

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From fantum on brakes problem

i just replaced pads and calipers and rotors on 96 chrysler town and country. after i finished, i had good pressure. when i test drove the van the brakes seemed to stay on a little. when i got home the brakes definitely smelled like they were on while driving. what should i check now?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Several things to look for.
Did the caliper push back in easy?
Are slides free?
Did you clean oil off new rotors? rotors usually shiped with oil coating to stop rusting.
If cheap pads, make sure they fit well.
Are brake hoses old?

Response From way2old

Make sure the caliper slides are not binding causing the brakes to stay applied.

Response From Guest

fluid contamination try droping some of your old brake fluid into a glass of water if it floats then there is oil or some sort of petroleum product in it

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

____________________

Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL