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Best Selling Genuine Nissan Brake Boosters

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We stock Brake Booster parts for most Nissan models, including 350Z, 370Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Versa, Xterra.

Seiken
2008 Nissan Rogue Power Brake Booster Seiken

P311-1270A7D    W0133-1803388  New

Qty:
$234.52
Seiken Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/01/2007-
Brand: Seiken
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Nissan Rogue Fr:08-01-07
Seiken
2012 Nissan Rogue Power Brake Booster Seiken

P311-1270A7D    W0133-1803388  New

Qty:
$234.52
Seiken Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Seiken
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Nissan Rogue
Cardone
1999 Nissan Pathfinder Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-54E244A    53-2756  Remanufactured

472101W700

Qty:
$31.50 $139.21
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 9.72
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 246.89
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Nissan Pathfinder
Cardone
2006 Nissan Titan Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-4A371A9    53-3001  Remanufactured

472107S010 , 47210ZC01B , 47210S7010 , 47210ZC01C , 47210ZC01A , 47210ZC010

Qty:
$10.80 $136.80
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 10.91
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 277.11
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2006 - Nissan Titan RWD
Cardone
1999 Nissan Quest Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-3B24662    53-2734  Remanufactured

472107B000 , XF5Z2005AA , YF5Z2005AA , 472102Z000

Qty:
$20.70 $68.21
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 9.72
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 246.89
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Nissan Quest
Cardone
1995 Nissan Pickup Power Brake Booster 4 Cyl 2.4L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-46EA0B9    53-2555  Remanufactured

4721092G02 , 4721037G01 , 4721092G10 , 4721013G11 , 4721057G00 , 4721013G01

Qty:
$31.50 $125.28
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 8.75
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 222.25
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Region Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Nissan Pickup RWD Canada L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Cardone
1995 Nissan Pickup Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-4FD484A    53-2751  Remanufactured

4721092G00 , 4721057G02 , 4721042G04 , 4721057G01 , 4721092G13 , 4721092G11

Qty:
$31.50 $127.55
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 9.77
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 248.03
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Region
1995 - Nissan Pickup 4WD United States
Cardone
2002 Nissan Frontier Power Brake Booster 4 Cyl 2.4L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-4B6B858    53-2532  Remanufactured

472108B400

Qty:
$35.10 $68.82
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 8.74
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 222.00
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Nissan Frontier L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Cardone
2003 Nissan Xterra Power Brake Booster 4 Cyl 2.4L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-15E6EA5    53-6006  Remanufactured

472107B400

Qty:
$35.10 $74.92
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 9.72
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 246.89
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M8 X 1.25
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Nissan Xterra L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Centric
1994 Nissan Sentra Power Brake Booster Centric - Centric Power Brake Boosters

P311-5092F95    160.88626  Remanufactured

Qty:
$32.00 $197.08
Centric Power Brake Booster
  • Centric Power Brake Booster
  • Centric Power Brake Boosters
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts full line of remanufactured brake boosters includes both vacuum and hydraulic units. Each booster is completely inspected, rebuilt and tested to ensure proper fit and function. With over 1,000 applications cataloged, Centric's booster program is the most complete in the aftermarket.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1994 - Nissan Sentra GXE

Latest Nissan Repair and Brake Booster Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

nissan altima 2006

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From str8up2008 on nissan altima 2006

have a nissan altima 2006,car has been sitting a couple days,went outside to start it ,it turns over but won't start,any suggestions

Response From fixingstuff Top Rated Answer

Can I suggest pulling the vacuum line from the brake booster, or just pulling the air intake off and spraying starter fluid into the intake/throttle body while you have someone try to start it.

If it starts it may just keep running and be fine. If it starts and dies off it may be a fuel delivery issue, but will give you a place to start anyway.

Response From Discretesignals

read this:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/IF_YOUR_STARTER_CRANKS_THE_ENGINE_BUT_IT_WILL_NOT_START_P75655/

Need help Please! 2002 Nissan Sentra won't start

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Dmoore19 on Need help Please! 2002 Nissan Sentra won't start

Hello all need some help please...

So my 2002 Nissan Sentra recently won't start. The key turns over and it sounds like my car wants to start for a second but doesn't. I checked all the hoses under my hood and realized I had one that wasn't connected to anything on one end. I attached some photos for reference. I have reason to believe it has to get connected somewhere near the brake booster or intake manifold?... but then again I don't know much, and why I am here.
The red circle on the 2nd photo is where the one end of the hose is connected to. Thanks for the help!!!!


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Don't worry about that. It looks like it's just a vent hose that


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From kev2

Any way to check for codes - yes even if CEL is off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What or who has been messing with this. Follow HT's list of a no start and Kev2s suggestion for codes.
* Pic #1 what you are hold does seem like a vent hose only but there's another below that I think going no place?
* Pic #2 Where is the other end of those wires to plug just cut off? Appears to be cut off to get a new plug?
Is this your car or just one that doesn't start and curious?


T

locked brakes

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From PsstComeHere on locked brakes

I have a 99 Nissan Altima I replaced the driver side brake caliper 5 days ago. Today when driving to work it appears the front brakes have locked up. The brake petal is rock hard there is no travel whatsoever. I have no idea what is causing this. Yes it is both front brakes. I replaced the passenger side a month or 2 ago with no problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Have had a master cylinder do that - was defective and did it right away though. Problem was pressure was not allowed to return. The flex hoses can do this unseen by looking but I've never heard of both at once!!

Try just cracking open a bleeder to fronts doing nothing else - just a bit and don't let air back in. If both front wheels free up then the lock is upstream from the caliper(s) themselves or if just that one frees up perhaps both hoses are doing this. If you can get them stuck again try the same trick at the master cylinder. Usually the line closest to the firewall is for the front brakes. If that frees up the brakes then I blame the master cylinder.

See what happens with that and then if no luck we have to consider something anti-lock (if equipped) or a proportioning valve.

Is there a flex hose (one) used somewhere other than the front wheels at each caliper for just the front brakes?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

I was able to free them up by doing just that. I opened the bleeder for each of the front calipers pumped the brake pedal a couple of times then closed them and could get halfway home(appox 4 miles) before they locked up again. Repeated bleeding them again and got it home but it just progresses to the point of locking up again. The master cylinder was replaced 4 mnts ago the brake booster was replaced 1 mnt ago. So you think it is the master cylinder?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't think the master cyl or booster - YET. I'll explain below what happened with just one in a lifetime on me.

You need to get these sticky/locked you called it and see what releases them from letting pressure out - one at a time or this will just be a parts toss/ hit or miss repair. Need to know if both release or not with just one being bled out some. If you want to toss parts go ahead and toss the flex hoses - they're old enough anyway if never done. Get some PB on the flare nut to hose area now as they can be a nightmare if any rust with line to nut.

This is what's happening to you: Pressure gets in the front system either from hitting the brake or from the expansion of heat in using the brakes or even engine heat on lines. Your brake pedal has a freeplay area up top that allows fluid to return to master cylinder and allow you to even push back a piston in a caliper and fluid would return to the master. If as a test you just had someone touch the brake pedal the pistons would not retract that way. Brake fluid is locked somewhere yet unknown to apply front brakes and the warmer they get the harder they lock as the fluid expands.

The flex hoses used can tear inside and become a one-way valve. It would be a first for two to do this at once but possible. That problem is not that uncommon one at a time.

With the recent master and booster replacement I'd like to know how they felt right away and is there a wild temperature difference now and then? That may factor in later as a possible clue.

Also - what was the complaint(s) that led you to replace those?

______________________________

Same issue was a defective part on me: 92 Cadillac CDV needed a new master cylinder with the usual complaint of a fading pedal. Easy job on a mint car overall. I test drove it before giving back to customer/friend who lived about 10 miles from my shop. Got a call as she went right home that the brakes were smoking (front) and she had to floor it to get up her driveway against the resistance! Whoa! I went right over after telling her not to drive the car. Sucker behaved fine right in front of me but you could smell that they had been hot. WTF! Drove it myself back to my shop using just the parking brake as to not heat up the hydraulic parts of brakes at all and it did it to me too. That new master cylinder was a day short of being recalled as the centering hole in the back of it was not drilled deep enough so that the brakes couldn't return fluid and just engine heat was enough to apply the brakes and as they got warmer the thing about locked the wheels which when cooled spun free again. That took a while to figure out and when I test drove again when I felt it doing this again I did loosen the master to booster nuts and it freed right up.

Note: That happened right away with just that part replaced so I wasn't looking for everything in the car to be wrong. That problem could not have lasted without showing up for as long as your problem did before you had trouble which is why I am not ready to blame the other new parts right now.

Sorry for the long book on this but you really need to nail down what this is. If you have a defective part like I did then you must try another brand part or the same defect could be there and really mess up the diagnosis.

________________________

You'll pin it down. Drive carefully if you need to test it out and take a look at the front brakes as they may have been damaged if the heat was excessive and anything else that may have cooked if it got super hot.

Let me/us know what you find,

T

Response From Guest

From the begining: The brakes started to go about 8 months ago. I bleed them which worked for about 2 weeks. Replace brake shoes and pads all around. That fixed it for about a month. Then they started to go again at which time I replaced the master cylinder with a remanufactered one. A month or two later the started to go again. I replaced the passenger side caliper due to a leak. Had to bleed the brakes very 2 weeks to keep the brakes good. For 2 months then replaced the power booster with one from a junkyard due to the lack of avaliblity of a remanufactured one in our area. 1 month later they started acting up again, The other caliper started to leak. Replaced the driver side caliper this past Saturday and all was fine brakes were great. Today they began to lock up and I had to keep bleeding them just to get it home.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

TOTAL CONFUSION! What was wrong with the booster? When they lock up do you or did you bleed them both (fronts) before you checked again?

Are you using brake fluid? This bit with leaking calipers and all this could be engine oil in the brake fluid! Gotta know more friend. Please don't just say the brakes were going as that means nothing to me. Noise, shake, pull, scrape, loss of pedal feel etc.,

T

Response From Guest

Sorry, when I said brakes were going I meant that the pedal would go to the floor before we got any real stopping power. The pads, master cylinder, booster, were replaced in an effort to solve this problem. The calipers were replaced as they developed leaks, seals wore out. Not at the same time. The fliud was store bought fresh. As far as freeing them up, my main concern was getting the car home first. so I just opened both bleeders, pumped brakes a couple times. Closed the bleeders. Then they would stay free for a bit, everytime I used the brakes they would slowly lock up again. I repeated this one more time before I got it home. I have not had the oppertunity to do much else. Will do more detailed work this weekend.
Your help is emmensely appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok:Let me/us know what you find,

T

Nissan Sentra 2003 Brakes/gas fail, all warning lights on

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From tenchim86 on Nissan Sentra 2003 Brakes/gas fail, all warning lights on

Hello. I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra with auto transmission at about 62,000 miles that's been running perfectly well. I do not know what the engine size is. Today, at a red light, my engine suddenly became quiet (could no longer hear normal car sounds). All of my warning lights turned on (brakes, oil, battery, engine service soon). Pressing the gas pedal provided almost no movement. The brake pedals then became hard and I could no longer press down on them. The headlights were still working fine.

I was able to pull over and turned it off. I checked my oil level/appearance and it was fine, brake fluid level/color was good, and power steering level was good, but does look dark. Even while the car was off, I could not press the brakes since they were still hard. After starting up the car, all of those warning lights were no longer on and I could press the brakes and gas again. After shutting it off again, the brakes became hard. I decided to drive around a parking for a bit to make sure it was safe and went home.

I was hoping someone could enlighten me as to what had gone wrong and what I should get checked out/replaced? ANy help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Response From Sidom

I'll go with Tom on this one.

Your engine died, you were on a downward incline and just rolled to the side.....

The brk pedal will get hard after a pump or 2 with the engine off. The running engine is the vacuum supply for the power brks.....No running engine.....No power brks...

Response From tenchim86

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I think the engine stalled. And actually, I think I was on an incline and was able to get off to the side of the road because of it. Apparently, it's possible that I have bad camshaft and crankshaft sensors. There was a recall on Nissan Sentra 2003 models, but I'm gonna have to call a nissan dealership and see if my car qualifies.

Response From Sidom

Yes there was a recall so get them changed if they are covered. You also might what to get the codes pulled just in case there was something else in the comp system that caused the car to die.

If you haven't had the fuel/air system serviced, it might not be a bad idea to get the injectors, throttle body & intake cleaned. A very dirty throttle body can cause a car to die @ idle.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

?? Confused a bit but all of that would happen with a stalled engine but you said you were able to move it??

If engine RPMs dropped way too low to almost a stall same could happen. Wild guess is a wild vacuum leak like a brake booster or something for now,

T

Searching for 1995 Infiniti G20 Technical Service Repair Manual

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From spidsparks on Searching for 1995 Infiniti G20 Technical Service Repair Manual

Year of vehicle : 1995
Make of vehicle : Infiniti (Nissan)
Model of vehicle : G20
Engine size : 2.0
Mileage/Kilometers : 170 K miles

After a frustrating conversation with Nissan Support, I am hoping perhaps a car junky out there might have knowledge where I can find a Technical Service Manual for my 1995 Infiniti G20. Nissan's customer service explained to me that they didn't have any on stock and were not able to educate either on when I could expect to get one. Very frustrating since the G20 has become a pet project of mine and I am trying to find a replacement hose (the one that connects the engine to the brakes drum). Would appreciate any help from fellow car junkies!





Thanks,
Sid

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure what you mean by engine to brake drum. If you mean a rear brake hose I just found them as seen in part below at AutoZone's own site. Check others as needed for your needs. Shop where you wish. Just call or Google the parts store of choice or a dealer if you wish. Helps to be able to name the parts you want.

Come back if you need help from there with installation or parts names if you can describe just what you need and what it does - we'll try,

T
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Brake Hose - Rear
Brakeware / Brake Hose - Rear for a 1995 Infiniti G20

Related Parts Brake Hose Plug About this product: Part Number: 77989 Weight: 0.57 lbs. Warranty: 3 MO Note: Fits either side
Pricing: $15.99 Availability: Store: Visit your local store to special order. Online: Ships within 3-5 business days Shipping Restrictions:

  • Overnight and two-day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses
  • Store: Online:

    Response From spidsparks

    Hi Tom, Thanks for you help. I am not sure about the rear hose. Here's a picture of my G20 and the broken hose I am trying to replace:

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    OK! Now I get it - pics really help!

    That appears to be a vacuum hose to the power brake booster - not an hydraulic part at all. Booster looks like a drum of sorts but not a brake drum like at the wheels.

    Just take a copy of your pic to a dealer as this is unlikely to be an aftermarket part. It is special hose that is both "moulded" and can hold vacuum without collapsing.

    You could fake it temporarily with extra long proper vacuum + fuel tolerant hose making loops to accommodate the curved ends - long story on how to do that and the right thing is getting the right part asap.

    If (judgement call) this is in a spot with just one leak right there you might be able to cut it, plug it for now so engine runs and or get a good brass barbed splice and double clamps each end of splice with 100% stainless hose clamps.

    YOU MUST BE SURE IT ISN'T RUBBING ON ANYTHING NO MATTER WHAT. NO SHARP RUBBING, OR HOT SPOTS.

    Just what happened to this one anyway?

    T

    Ps: This may have two different end I.D.s to make it more of a dealer part.

    PsII: Plugged or leaking this will defeat power assist to the brakes! Engine won't run or run lousy with it leaking. Not advisable to drive the car w/o the power assist - they will work but not well or strong!

    Response From spidsparks

    Thanks for your time Tom. I am not sure what happened but the vacuum hose broke into two somehow, perhaps because of the below zero freezing temperatures. I am going to go to the dealer tomorrow and see what they have to offer. Meanwhile, I found some free repair manuals. See post below!

    Sid

    Response From way2old

    Found this site with some manuals. Click here for Infinity G20 manuals.

    Response From spidsparks

    Thanks for taking the time!

    Here's another site (and it's free / password: pdftown.com) I found for others who are looking for technical service repair manuals:

    Infiniti G20 P11 Series - 1998 - 2002
    http://pdftown.com/PDF-Infiniti-G20-2002-Service-Manual.html

    Infiniti
    http://pdftown.com/Infiniti-PDF-eBook-Category.html

    General Automotive
    http://pdftown.com/Automotive-PDF-eBook-Category.html

    Best,
    Sid