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2005 Smart Fortwo Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-458C6EE    MS10510  New

Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
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Brand: Mevotech
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2005 - Smart Fortwo Front Lower

Latest Smart Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 VW passat steering problem

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From jberube on 2000 VW passat steering problem

My car is a 2000 VW Passat V6, it has 135,000 miles. I need to have a few things repaired and I can't afford to get them all fixed at once. Could you help me determine which repair I should do first. I need to have both of my right front ball joints replaced, front pads and rotors and right front outer tie rod end replaced. They said I possibly need to have my lower ball joints replaced as well. Should I do the break pads and rotors first? Or would it be smart to have the other things fixed first because you have to take the pads and rotors off in order to get to them? I would appreciate any help and I will be buying the parts online, is there any way I can know what the VW part # is so I can find an exact match? I just can't afford almost $1000 to have this fixed all at once.

Response From samg.

I would have it all checked out at a different shop. a lot of shops can make a tie rod end that barely has play in it, into a $1000 dollar estimate.

Response From lubeman Top Rated Answer

I would have it all checked out at a different shop. a lot of shops can make a tie rod end that barely has play in it, into a $1000 dollar estimate.


Response From Hammer Time

Since the original poster hasn't responded to anything since posting, I doubt he cares about out advice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yikes. Just a look at this front end if correct and a 2WD for MY 2000 was more than I would expect. See if this shows.........

Fig. The upper ball joints are an integral part of the two upper control arms

The upper ball joint(s) cannot be replaced separately. If one or both of the ball joints become worn or damaged, their upper control arm assembly must be replaced.


Everything mentioned is critical. Loss of steering or braking need anyone expound on the danger?

Parts: You'll need to specify exact details as my look up showed a 4WD which would likely change the parts needed. If you are not going to do this work are you set up to "bring your own parts" with a shop? Some may not be thrilled with that.

Don't forget alignment when front end parts are replaced would be required so factor that cost too.

Hate to be harsh but affording this isn't an option. Parking it is till you can,


Response From nickwarner

If your ball joint seperates, you crash. If the tie rod seperates, you crash. If you have no brakes, you crash. So the car gets totalled out and you get sued by whoever got injured if they were lucky and killed if they weren't. That grand is the cheapest of the options man. Park it until you can fix it. If you drive this in its current condition you are taking your life and the lives of everyone on the road with you in your hands and nobody has the right to do that.

You're also going to be a lot better off buying the right parts instead of chinese cheapies on Ebay. When you have to do the whole repair over again the cost savings go out the window. Also I don't know any shops who will allow a customer to bring his own parts and then give any sort of guarantee on the work. Most won't allow your own parts even without the guarantee. I know I don't.

Response From Hammer Time

I just can't afford almost $1000 to have this fixed all at once.

Then you need to park the car until you can afford to make it safe for everyone else on the highway.

Brake Pull

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From fuzzy1 on Brake Pull

Hello, I have a 2001 Ford F350 7.3L 65,000 miles.
Truck suddenly started pulling to the right a few days ago. I have replaced both calipers, hoses, pads- had 2 bad ball joints and replaced them as well. Im out of ideas and really have no where else to go. If you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks, Fuzzy

Response From Sidom

Just to add a little....Long thread & it's possible I might of skimmed over it but I didn't see the radius arm bushings mentioned. I'm assuming its a 2WD unless I missed that to

Those are good for the right side going out also. Definately wanna take a look at those.........

Response From fuzzy1

Ok here is the latest scoop. I agree the problem is in the left front. I have replaced the pads again and the left front caliper. Tried crimping off the rear brake hose and this made no change. Crimped off the right front hose and steering wheel will completly spin itself to the left side stop at a crawling speed. This vehicle is a 4wd. Wheel bearings are good. Remember already had left front apart to install ball joints. Yes the problem had occured before any brake parts were replaced. Vehicle was used all day, then at one point I came to stop at light and pull just started. Been pulling ever since. Air in the system is very doubtfull. I have manually bled and bled and bled and bled and then just gravity bled and bled and bled all four wheels. Rotated all six tires and still no change.

Response From Hammer Time

Crimped off the right front hose and steering wheel will completly spin itself to the left side stop at a crawling speed.

Is it that severe if you crimp the other side instead?

Could there be a difference in the caliper pistons that you didn't notice before?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Count me in the new club that if you crimped a brake hose you'd better replace it! They can act like "Reed" valves witout help from being crimped,


Response From BWilly

Re: Brake Pull
Owner of 2000, F-350 7.3L Super Duty, Auto 4 WD, Dual Rear, w/ 4 Wheel ABS - 150,000 mi. Hey guys, I too have the same issue as Fuzzy1, though not as sever. This is actually a common problem for me and I have replaced the front left brake system, (Pads, Rotors, Calipers, Bearings, Hoses), three times due to completely worn before the passenger side... and once the Front Left Axle too! I am currently rebuilding the Front brakes again and, of course, I am having problems after replacing both Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Bleed all 4 wheels and a new Bearing on the Left Side. It pulls to the left when braking yet the right side pads are sticking and over-heating, (a common recuring problem for me). I do as well experience sever bouncing when braking hard. Because, I pull 25,000 lb. loads from time to time this truck is worked hard and doesn't get the maintenance on time when it should. Shame on me! Though I haven't yet gone through all the rechecks that you guys suggested to Fuzzy1, (and I will), I sympathize with him and some of your solutions for him to check. They are a bit basic and this guy is looking for something less obvious and maybe more specific and common to Fords. That's what I'm hoping for when I google this problem. I offer this only as it is a solution I have never come across before. I stumbled across this Post regarding the following issue:LINK DELETED 99 f350 4x4 v10 brake problems "anyone having brake problems, mine is pulling hard to passenger side during braking, any suggestions, i've allready tried bleeding and new pads." This posible solution eventually followed: "Had the same problem with mine, working at a ford dealer I talked to the front end guy, he said that it was one front shackle moving more then the other as the springs move causing the front axle to turn one way or the other. The fix is to torque the shackle alittle tighter then the other side. If it is pulling to the right during braking, tighten the right shackle, if it is pulling to the left tighten the right shackle." Though I don't yet know what a shackle is exactly, I have often felt that these springs that pushed the pads back from the rotors were a bit dodgy. Though I don't believe this is necessarily the solution to the braking left, but maybe it will help me with the over-heating brakes. Does anyone have any thoughts about this, and how would you adjust these springs? My Regards, BWilly

link deleted.........not allowed

Response From fuzzy1

Sorry forgot to mention, yes raidus arm bushings were mentioned but as everything else they checked out fine.

Response From canadian

Does your truck have anti-lock brakes? If so check sensors, dirt/ mud buildup, or possibly faulty sensor? Any codes showing on dash?

Response From Hammer Time

Are we just assuming this is a brake pull or does it actually only occur when braking?

Response From fuzzy1

ALL the above suggestions have been ruled out. First was the radial pull. no problem there. Starting truck and watching steering wheel checks out ok. Yes im sure it is only a brake problem, as described, it only pulls when braking. In fact the harder you push on the brake the more it pulls and as soon as you let up it straightens up. Front and rear brake pad wear is even. This pull started all at one time. Was driving truck all day then came up to a normal stop and it started pulling. Still could use some ideas.
Thanks, Fuzzy

Response From Tom Greenleaf

About now I'd be suspecting a problem with the new parts or hardware installation issues.

Any chance the pads are not identical or if they got oil on them?


Response From fuzzy1

well to be honest, after installing new calipers, pads, machine rotors, hoses and pad hardware it actually caused the pull to increase more upon stopping.
Im almost starting to suspect a master cylinder but I have no way to check fluid pressure at the calipers to see if they are equal side to side.
I am also sure that there is no contamination in the fluid or oil or grease on the pads. It was clean job start to finish.
This one is a puzzler I know. I dont want to keep swapping parts unless I can surley narrow it down, but I have already eliminated everything on the front axle.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you even looked at the rear brakes? It is possible for them to do that.

Also make sure you didn't loop a twist into either front brake hose.

Response From fuzzy1 Top Rated Answer

Again yes im sure there is nothing wrong with the hose. I have been doing this for over 20 years, and please dont take offense to this, but I know what im doing when it comes to brakes. I just happen to have a serious issue with this vehicle and im just not seeing what else could be causing this problem. I most certainly and whole heartedly take your advice serously but your giving me advice that a novice shade tree might need to check. I need someone to burn some brain cells to help me out.
I have been useing this forum for while now and your a great bunch of people and have been a real help everytime I have had a problem. In fact 3 weeks ago the advice I was given for Jeep problem fixed me up. Thanks very much. So again PLEASE dont be offended, im not trying to sound like a smart A##. Just asking for some real help.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

fuzzy; Went back and re-read the thread. This is pulling to the right under braking. The problem is surely in the LF.
Agree with Hammer, it's not a master cylinder problem. Was this doing it before the calipers were replaced? Did you overhaul the calipers or replace them with remans? Faulty caliper? Very long shot, but.... Air? Doubtfull. I keep going back to a front end problem, but if it was not doing this prior to the brakes?.... Pads. Like Hammer stated, sometimes we can't see the forest cause all of the damned trees are in the way! Tunnel vision, as Sidom would say... Wheel bearings? Don't overlook or assume anything. Good luck. And, please, let us know when you find out the culprit.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good possibility Hammer - making a pig tail out of a brake hose isn't a good thing. You about can't with most. IMO - back brakes don't generally cause a hard pulling feeling but this is a 1 ton truck and back brakes frequently do a lot more work than cars.

Hate to suggest taking this job all apart and redo, re lube hardware and bleed out again with new fluid. Rotors shouldn't be the cause of a pulling if I'm reading this right and in that it just happened with the work I suspect parts or an installation issue but I'm not there looking at it.

Non brake fluid added or used by accident is a disaster as Loren mentioned. If that happened an oil product will destroy rubber parts used in brakes. If an oil is just added it floats and should stay on top at reservoir and might be ok to suck it all out and bleed the heck out of the whole system.

BTW - Loren - I always wondered why your turkeys tasted funny! Laugh - I use them too but mark them as NEVER to go back to the kitchen!


Response From Hammer Time

If you have been doing this for a while then you know that 90% of the time when you get into a situation like this, you ultimately find out that the problem was right in front of you and you simply overlooked it or just assumed something that you shouldn't have. You have already hit the causes of this problem. If it's not a suspension issue, then it's something that you are looking right past so it's time to start over and look again at all the basics, that includes the rear brakes also. I might try pinching off the rear brake hose and driving it so see how it drives then.

It's not a master cylinder.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

fuzzy; This is a bit puzzling... Are the rotors close to the same thickness? Have you checked the brake fluid for contamination? Using a suction device, like your wife's turkey baster, take a sample of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Put it in a clear glass jar. Pour in some water and stir/shake it. It should go into a 'milky' like solution. If there is any petroleum pollutant in it, it will seperate and float to the top. (and don't blame me if your wife gets mad)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Check for worn (don't know if they still call them that) strut rod bushings. Can allow the lower control arm to move during braking, throwing off the caster angle.

Response From Hammer Time

The first thing to try is crossing the front tires. If the pull stops or changes direction, the tires are the problem. Radial pull is quite common.

If that does nothing for you, start the engine while observing the steering wheel and see if it jumps to one side when the engine starts indicating a power steering problem.