Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Ball Joint

Choose a Year for your Plymouth 's Ball Joint

  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1969
  • 1968
  • 1967
  • 1966
  • 1965
  • 1964
  • 1963
  • 1962
  • 1961
  • 1960
  • 1959
  • 1958
  • 1957
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • First Equipment Quality
    First Equipment Quality
  • Mevotech
    Mevotech
  • Moog
    Moog
  • Mopar
    Mopar
  • Sankei 555
    Sankei 555
  • TRW
    TRW

Best Selling Genuine Plymouth Ball Joints

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including TRW, Sankei 555, First Equipment Quality, Mopar, Mevotech, Moog
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Plymouth Replacement Ball Joint Parts
TRW
1974 Plymouth Fury Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-3030FBA    New

Qty:
$57.11
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Plymouth Fury
TRW
1975 Plymouth PB100 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-3030FBA    New

Qty:
$57.11
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Smooth Ball Joint Housing
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - Plymouth PB100
TRW
1975 Plymouth PB300 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-3030FBA    New

Qty:
$57.11
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Standard Suspension
    with Smooth Ball Joint Housing
    with Front Axle Weight 3600 Lb
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - Plymouth PB300
TRW
1957 Plymouth Belvedere Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A790FB    New

Qty:
$63.33
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Threaded Body
  • Threaded Into Control Arm
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1957 - Plymouth Belvedere
Sankei 555
1985 Plymouth Conquest Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-27402B9    New

Qty:
$24.88
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left/Right
Brand: Sankei 555
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Plymouth Conquest
TRW
1990 Plymouth Acclaim Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2FACA2E    New

Qty:
$44.86
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Plymouth Acclaim
TRW
1991 Plymouth Acclaim Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-046225A    New

Qty:
$56.81
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Plymouth Acclaim
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$23.09
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Plymouth Acclaim
TRW
1996 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A72F9B    New

Qty:
$53.62
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Plymouth Breeze
TRW
2000 Plymouth Breeze Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A72F9B    New

Qty:
$53.62
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Rear
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Plymouth Breeze
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$22.80
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Boot
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Plymouth Neon
Mopar
2000 Plymouth Neon Suspension Ball Joint Mopar

P311-264368D    New

Qty:
$53.13
Mopar Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Boot
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Plymouth Neon
Mevotech
Qty:
$16.51
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Product Attributes:
    • PartStatus: Hassupersededps
    • PartStatusValue: K80013
    • X-Factor: Improved Design; Greasable
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1976 - Plymouth Trailduster 4WD Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$15.37
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1975 - Plymouth Gran Fury Front Upper
Moog
Qty:
$26.72
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Problem Solver Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through The Bearing To The Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength And Stability.
    • Feature 2: Moog Engineered Steel Composition Results In A Stronger Component.
    • Feature 3: Full Ball Metal Stud Provides 360 Degrees Of Smooth, Consistent, Rotational Movement Resulting In More Responsive Steering.
    • Feature 4: An Enlarged Ball Joint Receptacle In The Control Arm Can Cause A Loose Ball Joint Fit. Moog Problem Solver Design Includes An Oversized Housing For A More Secure Fit.
    • Feature 5: Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear.
    • Feature 6: Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear.
    • Greasable: Yes
    • Mount Type: Press-in Type
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1974 - Plymouth Trailduster 4WD Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$18.67
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Plymouth Acclaim Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$14.43
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Plymouth Caravelle Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$21.44
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • with 4000 Lb GVW with 7/8" Diameter Thread
  • Product Attributes:
    • X-Factor: Improved Design; Greasable
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1976 - Plymouth PB300 Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$19.35
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • w/o Threaded Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • PartStatus: Hassupersededps
    • PartStatusValue: K7025t
    • X-Factor: Improved Design; Greasable
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1974 - Plymouth Fury Front Lower
Mevotech
Qty:
$19.74
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • with 7/8" Diameter Threaded Tie Rod Ends
  • Product Attributes:
    • X-Factor: Improved Design; Greasable
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Plymouth PB350 Front Upper

Latest Plymouth Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

Showing 5 out of 10 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From imhotep06 on 98 Plymouth Chirping/tweeting sound while driving

My car is a 1998 Plymouth Breeze and it is making a chirping or tweeting sound while in motion. The noise stops when it is not in motion, so I do not think it has anything to do with belts or the engine. I've had my pads, control arms and brake rotors replaced within the past month. The mechanics have placed some kind of lubricant somewhere in the area and still no luck. It sounds like it is coming from the front right wheel. Can anyone help me out with this problem. I've checked online and I cannot find anything.

I recorded the sound and uploaded it to Youtube. Here is the link:

I appreciate any help that you can offer. Peace and blessings to you all.

Response From GC

Did this happen after the repairs or was it doing it prior to them? Does the sound go away when you brake, or just when you slow down? From the video, the sound is pretty crisp and clear, are you sure its not coming from a window or the windshield or loose trim piece whistling? It should be very easy for a mechanic to find this noise if it is coming from one of the wheels. You could try safely jacking up and supporting the front of the vehicle, then rotating the front wheels by hand and see if you can get one to make noise.

Response From imhotep06

This happened before I got these other items replaced and has continued after I replaced these items. They first thought it could be the pads, then the roters and the cv joints, which is why all of these were replaced. Still this noise continued.

The noise stops when the car stops as you can see in the video. When I accelerated, then the noise began again, so it has to do with the wheel on some level. It is not a window or anything like that. This is confirmed by the fact that when you accelerate faster the intensity of the noise increases: i.e., the faster the car, the faster the chirping.

Response From autonormative

This is most likely a problem with the ball joint which is a common problem with the plymouth breeze. Many people have reported the same squeaking due to problems with their ball joint.

Response From imhotep06

Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

Response From autonormative

Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

There are actually two ball joints.

Here is a diagram to help.

Response From imhotep06

Greetings. Thank you, again, for your answer. I just want to make sure that I didn't purchase one that was already attached to the lower control arm. So just because I replaced the lower control arm, doesn't mean I replaced the ball joints, correct?


Greetings. I appreciate your insight. I have a quick question. Is the ball joint automatically replaced when you replace the lower control arm? Or is this something separate? Because I've had both lower control arms replaced. Just want to get some insight. Thank you again for your commentary.

There are actually two ball joints.

Here is a diagram to help.

Response From Discretesignals

I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

Response From imhotep06 Top Rated Answer

I am not sure. When I took it in, I wasn't in the area where they did all of the testing.

However, I just went outside and I pushed my car up and down in the front to see if it would make that squeak noise, and it did not.

Also, I have noticed that when I start to drive the car, it doesn't make the chirping noise until I get maybe 10 blocks or so. In other words, when I first start off driving, it sounds fine. But a little into the drive then the chirpping noise comes back.


I've never heard a ball joint make that kind of noise. If it was a ball joint you should be able to get it to squeak while bouncing the front of the vehicle.

I've actually heard something similar on a vehicle way back when and it ended up being a hood hinge.

Has your mechanic run the vehicle on his/her lift to see if the noise happens?

Response From Hammer Time

The lower joint is the only one that is load bearing so it's highly unlikely for the upper to make noise.

Steering Wheel Shakes at Higher Speeds

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Jwiz88 on Steering Wheel Shakes at Higher Speeds

My 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager has a developing problem in the Wheel/Axle/Tire area. When I accelerate over 20mph the steering wheel starts to jerk violently (to the left), causing the entire vehicle to shake. It seems like the shaking originates from the left front tire region. Anyways, the faster I go, the more it shakes till I hit about 40mph and it feels like it's gonna break. This problem is getting worse and sometimes I'll hit a bump or turn and the shaking will mellow out, but eventually it will get back into shaking mode. I've done a lot of research and I'm thinking it might be the ball joint? I just want to find out what I gotta do to fix this. Please any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Response From valpoautodummy

having driven many 12 year old cars, i can tell you that you need to replace your cv joint. while you're under there, replace the ball joints, control arms and tie rods too. and u joint if rear wheel drive. all of those things really take a beating and are cheap and easy to replace. then get a wheel allignment and a set of good tires. smooooooth!

Response From TheChevynator

You may have a wheel that's not balanced or bent.To check that just switch the front right wheel with the left.drive the car and see if the problem switches sides.If not the problem may lie in the suspension.To check if it's the ball joint when you have each front wheel jacked off the ground grab the outer top and bottom of the wheel and try to wiggle it to and fro pulling the top toward you while pushing the bottom away and visversa.Do it rapidly.If it wiggles and you hear a metallic knocking sound then the ball joint is bad.If it's tight then it maybe the axle is the problem.look at the axle boot.If it's ripped then you probably need an axle.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

When I accelerate over 20mph the steering wheel starts to jerk violently (to the left),

That's a typical inner C/V joint. Caravans are notorious for it. The joint binds under acceleration.

Response From Hammer Time

That is a bad inner C/V joint. The real question is, which side. It's probably on the left but no guarantee on that. You just need to replace the whole C/V axle with another one.

Can't hear you over the grinding

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From teddybear9300 on Can't hear you over the grinding

I have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze, 2.0, with 225000 mi. I have had this car for almost nine years and done most of the repair work myself. I have heard a lot of different noises come from this car, but this one is new and I am at a loss. I am getting a really bad grinding noise when I turn left. This is no squeak, pop, or thunk. (delt with them before) In the past week the passenger side has had the half shaft (cv joints) lower control arm (w\ball joint) and hub assembly replaced. The brakes look good and so do the rotors. I have checked and rechecked that everything is back where it should be and the right torque specs are being used. Help please.

Response From cpaine0106 Top Rated Answer

Many wheel bearings require torquing to a preload specification which is usually higher than the regular torque spec. The axle nut is torqued to preload, backed off, then retorqued to the regular spec. If this step is required, but skipped, accelerated bearing wear will result. Also, it's unlikely, but check for any signs of the tires rubbing against the inner wheel well when turning left

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bearings new or not can fail making noise frequently aggravated on turns at first. They don't necessarily show free play at the first noises either. Also know that noises like that can defy your senses and be from the opposite side so check both sides,

T