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CTR
2007 Hyundai Accent Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-1B6D36F    W0133-1900672  New

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$28.35
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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2007 - Hyundai Accent
TRW
2007 Hyundai Accent Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-34ACB56    W0133-1900672  New

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$37.88
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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2007 - Hyundai Accent
TRW
2005 Hyundai Tucson Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-239C074    W0133-1779200  New

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$31.63
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front
Brand: TRW
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2005 - Hyundai Tucson
First Equipment Quality
2005 Hyundai Tucson Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-206BFD2    W0133-1779200  New

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$25.70
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2005 - Hyundai Tucson
CTR
2008 Hyundai Elantra Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-1D7F93E    W0133-1782400  New

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$35.24
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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2008 - Hyundai Elantra
CTR
2007 Hyundai Elantra Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-1D7F93E    W0133-1782400  New

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$35.24
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 05/24/2007-
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Elantra
First Equipment Quality
2006 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-10B4282    W0133-1780793  New

Qty:
$27.01
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2006 - Hyundai Sonata
TRW
2006 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1EEE972    W0133-1780793  New

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$44.65
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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2006 - Hyundai Sonata
First Equipment Quality
2007 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-10B4282    W0133-1780793  New

Qty:
$27.01
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2007 - Hyundai Sonata
First Equipment Quality
1999 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-2672B29    W0133-1625556  New

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$23.90
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Left/Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1999 - Hyundai Sonata
TRW
1999 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4DB2ECC    W0133-1625556  New

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$32.90
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Left/Right
Brand: TRW
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1999 - Hyundai Sonata
CTR
1999 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-39C2900    W0133-1625556  New

Qty:
$28.69
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Left/Right
Brand: CTR
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1999 - Hyundai Sonata
First Equipment Quality
2000 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-2672B29    W0133-1625556  New

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$23.90
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2000 - Hyundai Sonata
TRW
2000 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4DB2ECC    W0133-1625556  New

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$32.90
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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2000 - Hyundai Sonata
First Equipment Quality
2007 Hyundai Azera Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-01739FB    W0133-1822035  New

Qty:
$18.81
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front Upper
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2007 - Hyundai Azera
First Equipment Quality
2006 Hyundai Azera Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-01739FB    W0133-1822035  New

Qty:
$18.81
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 07/07/2006-
  • Front Upper
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Azera
First Equipment Quality
2007 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-01739FB    W0133-1822035  New

Qty:
$18.81
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 09/22/2006-
  • Front Upper
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Sonata
CTR
1995 Hyundai Accent Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-05CB601    W0133-1633847  New

Qty:
$22.49
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1995 - Hyundai Accent
First Equipment Quality
1994 Hyundai Sonata Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-5398F85    W0133-1632190  New

Qty:
$20.91
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Caution: this comes as a complete UNASSEMBLED KIT. Ball joint, rubber boot, snap ring, and castle nut are all included and bagged as KIT.
  • Left/Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1994 - Hyundai Sonata
CTR
1990 Hyundai Excel Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-101F270    W0133-1633806  New

Qty:
$8.43
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
1990 - Hyundai Excel

Latest Hyundai Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

loose ball joints at 45k, covered by warranty?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on loose ball joints at 45k, covered by warranty?

My mechanic said my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe has loose lower ball joints on the front suspension and told me to check w/Hyundai servicing if it is covered under warranty. How should I be prepared for this discussion w/Hyundai? Thanks!

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

First thing to do is to look in the manuals to see the warranty on various parts. I think the 10 year, 100k miles is for the powertrain. Suspension will be different.

Creaking noise from RF wheel when driving over uneven surfaces

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kplescia on Creaking noise from RF wheel when driving over uneven surfaces

My front passenger wheel began creaking when driving over uneven surfaces after work was done on 12/29/14 to replace the wheel bearing, stud, and nut for the right front. I've been dealing with this noise for 1.5 years, but to my luck, when I take a test drive with a mechanic, it does not reveal itself, so they will not take a detailed look at it and open it up. It is more prominent in cold weather. Pushing down on the front of the car for a strut test does not produce the noise.

I am including a video to hear the noise.

The creaks can be heard at :18 and :37 after driving over a sewer cover and sewer grate, respectively.

2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS
147000 miles

Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Keith

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Couldn't hear anything wrong on the video! If there it wasn't clear. So - if it wont reproduce itself with a live person in car you have also added the weight of another person so car sits in a new spot by a smidge too. Bet you could put something about that weight on the seat and it goes away also.


IDK is the answer of the day. Try this: The front end of most vehicles has at least a lower control arm with rubber bushings inside and a ball joint low near wheel. Those rubber bushings can make noise - squeaky, creaky barn door noises just from shiny metal to rubber you can't see. Some do, some don't make a peep ever? I've had almost 100% luck if that by spraying either WD-40 or a thicker Silicone spray light weight product under assorted brand names now also under the WD-40 brand sells other than that exact product. Noise if from those is usually ones that also don't do it when wet. All the rubber parts that can move, those arms, sway bar bushings and the support rubber - generic to many vehicles could do this usually at some miles and age even if safe it's just shined up just such that it can do that.


Try - nothing to lose but the noise. A real worn something or problem should not totally go away.
Can also be usually plastic or rubber like body parts touching metal - bumper parts, inner fender splash shields or things that move some with flex of car.


Intermittent anything noise wise if it will NOT do it for a tech and nothing is apparently wrong with other checks can be futile to find and be sure it's fixed.


If you try spray lubes of those types you may not know which area was the one culprit if you did them all at once and it goes away.


The body of a car does torque some as weight shifts normally and can be elusive as you are experiencing.


Other: Noise could be transmitted from one side to another and fool you which side is really making the noise. Hard to be sure on any of this in person or other media. Try something that doesn't harm anything,


T

Response From kplescia

Thanks for your help. I have a feeling it is something with the ball joint or bushing causing some friction with metal as you indicated. Could this have been damaged when the work was done to replace the wheel bearing? It starting making the noise after the work was done, and it is only from that wheel, which was the one that was worked on.
I tried spraying white lithium grease and also a lubricant from underneath the car to access the inside part of the wheel. I also sprayed underneath around the front suspension. It didn't seem to be effective and likely need to have it opened up to access the bushing or ball joint directly.
The noise occurs with passengers and they have heard it as well, since it can be quite loud at times, usually when it is colder. This also makes me believe it has something to do with friction.
You can't hear the noise at the 18 second and 37 second mark? I can try to provide another video.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Notes: Spray lithium grease may not get as far into some areas as lighter weight stuff but good to finish with that.


Ball joints with no grease fittings you can't grease as under the boot is past where lube is needed. If a joint like that is making noise it can only be replaced IMO. Not greased again. Guess is seal allowed water into any of those that wear out and ends it for them whether a TRE or other joint like them not greasable.
You can try new video but short of a stethoscope on part by part not sure it's going to peg exactly where the noise is, just that it exists,


T

Response From kplescia

I brought my car into the dealer to look at a separate issue that was actually for the brake light issue for the seat belt buckle pretensioner. They did a full check of the car, and found the right front upper control arm bushing to be worn, without me even telling them. Can't believe Firestone and Pepboys couldn't find it when I told them both the noise was coming from there.

Could the bushing have been damaged when Firestone replaced the wheel bearing? It is odd that it is the location with the worn bushing and it occurred after they did the work.

Response From Discretesignals


Could the bushing have been damaged when Firestone replaced the wheel bearing? It is odd that it is the location with the worn bushing and it occurred after they did the work.

Hard to say without actually seeing the worn part. The front wheel bearings are press in style and will require removing the steering knuckle if they don't have a hub tamer tool. The knuckle is connected to the upper ball joint, but the upper control arms don't need to be removed to remove the knuckles. The bushings in the control arm are rubber and the rubber does get old and brittle with age and use. Maybe the act of lifting the vehicle in the air finished off the worn out bushing which is something that would have been out of the technician's control to prevent from happening.

Have you had the other control arm bushings inspected to be sure they aren't on their way out also?

Response From kplescia

They did mention having to remove the knuckle at the time. It was hard enough to get them to properly look at this bad bushing, let alone the others. I asked them many times since I've been back and they kept saying they couldn't find anything wrong. How long should these control arm bushings last? I suppose with 125000 miles wear they all could be mostly worn already and they just finished it off with the work

2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Vibration-- UPDATE

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From dmr02d on 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Vibration-- UPDATE

Good afternoon -- in short, I need all the help I can get:

Year of vehicle: 2003
Make of vehicle: Hyundai
Model of vehicle: Santa Fe LX, All wheel drive
Engine size: 3.5L
Mileage: 95000K

Problem: Car shakes from 30 to 45 mph; vibration increases on acceleration; vibration eases upon release of gas; little to no vibration from 0 to 30; moderate but little vibration from 45+. No vibration or jerking upon braking.

In the past 2 weeks, the tires have all been re-balanced, the ball joints replaced, tie rod replaced, and new front end. This is a very sudden issue and the car never vibrated between 30 to 45 mph but before a 20 hour road trip we had.

Update: I got back from the dealership. They said the issue was 2 things -- 1) axle boot is "split" and both axles need to be replaced and 2) the engine is misfiring because of failed spark plugs. Then he quoted me over $2000 for the work.

Response From Sidom

You may want to take a look at the axles. The speeds are about right for a bad inner joint. Usuallly a bad axle will only vibrate under acceleration though, when you let off the vibration will go away or be greatly reduced, but definitely want to check it out........

Sidenote......just noticed the part in your post about the easing off the gas...........Definitely want to have the axles checked out....

Response From dmr02d

Thanks for the reply! The dealership just got back to me and told me that the spark plugs are bad and are causing a misfire... they also told me the axle boots are leaking and the axles need to be replaced ASAP. They quoted me $2000+ for the two repairs.

My mechanic I trust said for a full tune-up he'd charge $550. I'm thinking of having him do the axles and I will replace the plugs and wires myself. Sound crazy?

Response From Sidom

Well that could definitely do it to. I'm assuming if it was missing that bad the check engine light was on and you were getting some P030x codes. If it was real bad you may have got a P0171 & P0174, lean bank 1 & lean bank 2 as well.

No, not crazy at all. If this is something that is in your comfort zone then you can save yourself a few bucks.......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a question for dmr:

What is being done for a $550 tune up? It's just me but the words should probably be eliminated as there isn't much to adjust or so called "tune" like a piano but more "periodic maintenance" - replacement of filters, plugs, inspect and replace other items as needed, as listed in owner's manual on a schedule of miles and or time. To me "tune-up" doesn't mean any oil changes - engine or trans etc.

Just wondering what you are getting for that much $$,

T

Response From dmr02d

Guys -- first of all, thank you for all of your help. Immensely helpful.

Tom -- the $550 tune-up is to replace the spark plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter. It seems like an awful lot and as is, I currently don't have the money to fix the car.

What's weird is that the check engine light NEVER came on and never HAS come on.... so it's odd to me that there would be misfires. I do agree, however, that the spark plugs are probably worn, since those have never been replaced on a 90K car (platinum plugs or not).

The "tune-up" requires taking off the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs... terrible design by Hyundai. Makes me wonder if I should do it or not...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There are lots of things not so easy to get at making what should be simple very labor intensive so that explains the cost. Even so, sounds pricey but sacrificing quality parts and work is no bargain either. Retired - don't have a labor guide that would have said the expected time to do that stuff. I say it's not a waste if you plan on keeping it at the miles.

State by state here rules are different. Have a brother who lived in RI with one of these - just 2 WD and in that state they mandated to keep their then 100k drivetrain warranty that at 90K it must be done and at a dealer only! Not so here (Massachusetts) you can go anywhere you wish but Hyundai wants their parts used. He was quoted $1,300 to buy 10k more warranty. Don't think he did it as it was all just done 30k earlier and just bought a new vehicle. Asked me then found out I couldn't do that service for him!

Labor rates vary wildly too by location. One dealer near me just upped to $110/hr.! The dealer gets 60% of that if you didn't know!

However for a legal NEW place to work cost a King's Ransom so it has to be passed along. Thanks for letting me know what it entailed as I didn't know!

T

2002 Hyundai Santro Groans While Cruising

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From nura on 2002 Hyundai Santro Groans While Cruising

Year of vehicle 2002
Make of vehicle Hyundai
Model of vehicle Santro LS manual transmission (aka Atos in other countries)
Engine size 1.1L
Kilometers 113,000

Hi Everyone!
I am from India & this is my first post here.
My car is making a barely audible groaning noise from the front at low (0 - 25 kmph) speeds. I hear it a little more during deceleration (foot off the gas pedal) than acceleration. Funnily, when the car is slowing down, the noise is a little low-pitched when it starts & then becomes more high-pitched, then it dies down for a second or two & then recurs in the same fashion. I get the weird feeling that, although the car is slowing down, something inside is speeding up for a bit & then slowing down & the cycle is repeating itself a few times before the groans finally die down completely as the car gets to near zero speeds.
Engaging & disengaging the clutch has no effect on the noise. The noise seems to disappear at higher speeds. I am also unable to reproduce the noise by pressing/ releasing the accelerator pedal when the car is standing still with the engine switched on.
I have taken it to the Hyundai workshop a few times. They changed the aircon compressor but that didn't help at all. Maybe there was another noise too, which has gone but this groan is certainly still there. Another time they cleaned the throttle body & the car is accelerating more smoothly but the noise is the same.
The noise isn't loud at all & I have been living with it for many months but of late it has really been bugging me. Will sincerely appreciate your help in identifying the source of this groan.
Many thanks in advance.

Response From nura Top Rated Answer

A few more things that I just remembered.
The floor of the car starts vibrating whenever I engage 1st gear & release the clutch pedal to start moving from standstill. Workshop says weak clutch. But the clutch was overhauled by them just 8 months ago. They had also replaced the lower arm ball joints & tie-rods as well as the joint kit in the differential side front axle at the same time. From what I remember, the car was driving fine for a few months after these repairs.
Is the other (non-repaired) front axle now failing & causing the groaning noise & vibrations?
Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The clutch job is a bit invasive to the car. Mounts, exahaust parts could be too close to body parts or plain touching under loads or shifts in weight. Clutch itself parts or the job may have been the problem??

There probably is more than just one thing going on. Stinks but there's only so much I/we can guess at or suggest the likely trouble spots for these things without being right there,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ooops - you replied while I was typing. Some new bearing don't work out so well nor other new parts. These may be "pressed in" wheel bearings that alone can cause trauma on things or hard on the new bearing. They can fail with different symptoms but commonly a growl that get better or worse while turning such that weight is shifting from one side to the other. Driveshafts and the joints generally are load sensitive meaning better or worse while engine is applying forces for power or slowing and also worse when wheel are turned - that being the most common but not always so again these things can be tough to pin down.

New tires should rule out tires themselves - not always with much of anything!

BTW - not here all the time. Others always welcome to suggest away things that missed my notice or interpretation of symptoms and when they occur.

Again: This may take a mechanic that has the time AND know how to find. Not all shops (can't know even locally to me) which ones allow how much time for what never mind situations around the world?

Some real tricky stuff like this here some shops and car owners would allow a tech/mechanic to take cars for a day to use for their own commutes or needs to witness and some will not allow that.

Locally the independent shops have more chances of finding tough problems with plain noises and vibrations with more time allowed but still shop by shop rules.

Keep trying as it's warning you of something not right,

Tom

Response From nura

Thank you once again, Tom, for your excellent reply. I am going to take the car back to the Hyundai workshop, as well as to an independent technician in a few days. Will certainly post their findings here again & request for more advice.
Thanks a ton for all your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are welcome nura. Good luck with the finding and the fix of this. Please do let us know what is found. I suggest you describe this to whatever mechanic at whatever shop the history of work already done and when you notice this.

Try hard to speak to the person that will take this on not just a shop's service person who directs work to a mechanic. Sometimes here you would never meet and know who was assigned the job at a larger shop and with noises especially you really should speak directly to the person.

Again, not always here but I am quite a bit. Others are for assorted suggestions for problems. Know that most regular people here will have less specific information for vehicles sold to places other than N. America (Canada and the US) as specifications are different for where the vehicle was to be sold when new,

Tom

Response From nura

Great advice again, thanks, Tom.
The rules are the same here, too, but developing a good rapport with the service adviser & floor in-charge does help immensely. Most times if I am willing to wait a couple of days, I can ask for a particular mechanic too.
The plot gets thicker, though. Now there's a groan even at idle but it wasn't there in the morning & started hearing it only tonight. Alternator bearing? Like you mentioned earlier, there are probably several issues happening together.
The funny thing is that for 15-20 minutes every morning the car really runs like a dream without any groans & moans whatsoever. Aren't cars lovable creatures?
Will certainly keep you posted & thanks a ton for taking out the time to reply.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One more for now and wont be around for some time soon. A bearing going bad on an alternator (a belt driven item) should be easy to determine. You can replace just bearings if they are good otherwise. Simply taking the belt off and spin items for feel for those type things. You DO NOT or should not have to tell a mechanic how to check out stuff like that.

See what they come up with. I'll catch up later and will be off line as said,

Tom

Response From nura

Thank you for your wonderful reply, Tom.
The tires were changed just 2 months ago & aren't showing any unusual tread-wear. Probably too early anyway. Forgot to mention that the front right wheel-bearing was replaced about 5 weeks ago. Maybe I should get the front left bearing replaced too. There is no clicking noise while turning left or right but I guess that doesn't rule out a drive shaft problem, does it? The groaning noise often appears after I apply the brakes but that's probably because the vehicle then comes within the speed-range for the noise to appear. The groaning noise is there even if I am only cruising with feet off all pedals.
Somehow I have begun to suspect the drive shaft(s). Any tests you would recommend to confirm?
Thank you once again for taking out the time to reply.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

By nature noises are difficult to describe and be sure of too much without witnessing it but not all is lost.

As I read this the noise is directly related to the speed of the vehicle as a whole not so much engine so need to concentrate on things that are moving with the car.

That list includes wheel bearings, brakes, tires and wheel trim parts, drive shafts and associated parts/bearings.

Some other can be mounts for engine and trans not held securely in place.

It's actually too bad that A/C compressor was blamed IMO as that should have been easier to know if the source of a noise.

Some things to help target will be if noise changes with steering, going around corners, speeds you noted already, braking. Note if one makes the noise better or worse.

Shops and the mechanics may have difficulty if they can't reproduce the noise so if possible for your exact situation you may have to find a place or mechanic that can witness it going with you or driving it at the times and way you notice it.

Look at tires for clues. Even wear. Rotating them can make unseen noises if tire related move with where they go and change the noise. Those are clues to narrow down the search for the exact source. A guessing game of tossing items gets costly and unproductive,

T