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Moog
1989 GMC Tracker Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-3EC5630    K9739  New

Qty:
$50.37
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear.
    • Greasable: No
    • Mount Type: Bolt-in Type
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - GMC Tracker Front Lower
TRW
1971 GMC Jimmy Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5EEFDCF    W0133-1968043  New

Qty:
$53.40
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • RWD
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1971 - GMC Jimmy
TRW
1975 GMC C15 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5EEFDCF    W0133-1968043  New

Qty:
$53.40
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - GMC C15
TRW
1971 GMC G15/G1500 Van Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5EEFDCF    W0133-1968043  New

Qty:
$53.40
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front Disc
    Rear Drum
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1971 - GMC G15/G1500 Van
TRW
2003 GMC Savana 1500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-48962B0    W0133-1962396  New

Qty:
$99.61
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 1500
TRW
2005 GMC Savana 2500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-48962B0    W0133-1962396  New

Qty:
$99.61
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with 7,300 Lbs. GVW (RPO C6A)
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - GMC Savana 2500
TRW
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 HD Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2B304A5    W0133-1968009  New

Qty:
$96.99
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Sierra 1500 HD
TRW
1971 GMC Sprint Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4ED3DD4    W0133-1968057  New

Qty:
$62.28
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1971 - GMC Sprint
TRW
1971 GMC Sprint Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4FA7D5B    W0133-1968058  New

Qty:
$52.73
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1971 - GMC Sprint
TRW
2003 GMC Savana 3500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C85829    W0133-1964361  New

Qty:
$87.38
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 3500
TRW
2005 GMC Savana 2500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C85829    W0133-1964361  New

Qty:
$87.38
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Except 7,300 Lbs. GVW
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - GMC Savana 2500
TRW
2003 GMC Savana 3500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4B97AE9    W0133-1962389  New

Qty:
$126.08
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 3500
TRW
2005 GMC Savana 2500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4B97AE9    W0133-1962389  New

Qty:
$126.08
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Except 7,300 Lbs. GVW
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - GMC Savana 2500
Lemfoerder
2003 GMC Savana 1500 Suspension Ball Joint Lemfoerder

P311-31A3DFF    W0133-1687072  New

Qty:
$89.63
Lemfoerder Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: Lemfoerder
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 1500
First Equipment Quality
2003 GMC Savana 1500 Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-4886391    W0133-1687072  New

Qty:
$28.24
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 1500
First Equipment Quality
2003 GMC Savana 2500 Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-4886391    W0133-1687072  New

Qty:
$28.24
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • 7300lbs GVW
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 2500
First Equipment Quality
2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-4886391    W0133-1687072  New

Qty:
$28.24
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Press-in Design
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - GMC Sierra 1500
TRW
1988 GMC K1500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1DC5AF9    W0133-1687684  New

Qty:
$86.28
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC K1500
TRW
1995 GMC K1500 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1DC5AF9    W0133-1687684  New

Qty:
$86.28
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 1st Design
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - GMC K1500
First Equipment Quality
1988 GMC C1500 Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-44A8226    W0133-1686874  New

Qty:
$35.55
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Upper
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC C1500

Latest Gmc Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 Yukon Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From sirjr on 1994 Yukon Lower Ball Joint Replacement

I have to replace the lower ball joints in my 1994 GMC Yukon 4WD. Can anyone offer me help/advice on this repair. I know I will have to purchase a tool that will press out the existing ball joints and press in the new ball joints. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To avoid confusion (my middle name) I saw this post first at "Heat and A/C" and moved it and responded at "Truck - General Discussions" Tom

T

Response From sirjr Top Rated Answer

Thank you! I made a mistake while posting and I did not know how to change the post listing. Steve

1994 Yukon Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From sirjr on 1994 Yukon Lower Ball Joint Replacement

I have to replace the lower ball joints in my 1994 GMC Yukon 4WD. Has anyone done a job like this to offer me any help/insight regarding this repair. I know I will have to purchase a special tool to press out the old ball joints and press in the new ball joints. Other than that, any instructions/directions will be appreciated. Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hi - I moved the post from Heating and A/C for better exposure.
___________________________________

Just looked at my 3/4 ton 1997 4X4 which could be the same deal as yours. Looks like a bear!! I know the stabilizer pins are a total pest and big bucks too just to buy them - I was shocked!

You will need HD tools and you might be able to press out and in the joint with a bench vice and the right size pipe but you have to know just where to push or things get damaged. You want the right grade of stuff if it takes a lot of force. Machine shops and some shops have this press and for the very few times I've ever needed one that strong I took the parts to friends shop for that part of the job.

I grease all greasable joints on all my own cars and customers with synthetic grease and only once had to replace a front end joint of any kind that was good when I first started to care for the car/truck. This front end is a pest to grease and I'd bet some places that do regular grease and oil jobs skip a couple fittings. You even have to steer the car to get at one on the center link with most grease guns.

I think you can buy the lower control arm with the joint already in it -- that was the only way I could get a new control arm for an old Cutlass RWD.

In short: Yes you can do it if you have the heavy duty tools,

T

1999 GMC half ton steering problem

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jlartch on 1999 GMC half ton steering problem

I have a 1999 GMC half-ton pickup and I'm having troubles with the steering. When I turn my steering wheel to the right when my truck is stationary, it's very difficult to turn - I have to use 2 hands to turn the steering wheel. It turns to the left just fine when stationary. When I'm moving, I can turn to the right a little bit easier, but it's still more difficult than it should be. There are no problems steering to the left when moving. I've replaced the power steering pump twice and this hasn't fixed the issue. Here's the odd thing: when I lift the front end of the truck off the ground (both wheels are off the ground), it turns just fine both ways. Do you know what could be causing this issue?

Response From Hammer Time

I never would have suspected a pump at all. If it can pump in one direction, it's fine. You're likely looking at a problem with the steering gear which could be one of two different types. It could have a steering box or a rack and pinion. That year has both.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

As said this about can't be the pump itself. The clue is in this is fine while hoisted = no problems when the load/weight is off of tires and lower ball joints mostly bearing weight of front end. Better when driving alone isn't surprising. Sitting still you are mashing tires to surface you are on.

Could valving with either type of power assist be the issue - yes but wouldn't be my first look. I'd be checking tires, ball joints, swapping front tires. Not sure for all but lower ball joints on at least many of these have used a fairly hidden grease fitting that might have had been passed by a few too many times. They can still wear out - any if greased or not routinely but far less likely if always done on schedule.

Please tell us that at least the tire pressure is even and correct, - T

1988 GMC rear end diagram

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From moonbaby on 1988 GMC rear end diagram

Have a 1988 GMC SWB fleetside truck. Some kid tried to lower the truck - to lower it he put the rear end "over" the leaf springs. I am trying to find out where to get a diagram to show me how the rear end should be set up to put it back to stock height. They replaced the ball joints and a-frame in the front and put it back to stock height, just not the rear end yet. Can anyone help?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Leaf springs would be under the differential housing. They may have used longer "U" bolts and a block there or longer items at each end of the leaf spring. Just glance at an untouched one and that will show what was changed to modify this one,

T

mismatched tires

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From jackx on mismatched tires

I have a 1989 gmc jimmy 4wd s15. It has 4wd but I never use 4wd.
I have 235/75r/15 tires on both rear wheels.
One front tire has 235/75r/15 and the other has a 235/70r/15.

The 235/75r/15 has a circumference of 90.72 and the 235/70r/155 has a
circumference of 87.82

As long as I don't use 4wd is it ok to run the mismatched tires on the
front of the vehicle.

I hate to buy another tire unless I really need to.

Response From Hammer Time

No, it's not OK, You are going to tear up the front differential and also have ABS problems.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Can't find ABS on this for front anyway. Matters if a farm vehicle now or really driven anywhere? How is it you got the mismatched tire to begin with if new? If used AYOR totally or different brands on an axle.


All thing preferably don't do this as HT said. Matters what you now use this for and would be harder on front diff. with wheels never turning the same speed,


T

Response From jackx

I understand why you have to run the same size on front and back if you use 4wd. So I put the
offsize tires on the front even though the rear end is not posi. I still wanted the same size tires on
both sides because I figured even though it might work now long term it might be a problem. I know you
aren't supposed to run donut tires very long. So I decided having mismatched tires on the back would
not be a good idea.

Since I can jack up the front and turn one wheel way and the other the oppposite way I have
a hard time understanding why I having slightly different size tires on those wheels matter. Even
though the cv shafts attach to the front transfer case they apparantly aren't engaged with each
other in any way or you could not turn them in opposite directions.

I really did not know the truck had abs. I know it doesn't have it on the back. I guess it may
have abs on the front.

I got the tires from my son. He had a blow out and the service station put the 235/70/15
on the truck. His truck was a 97 blazer. I have since pulled those tires off his truck and put new ones
on and I decided to put the tires on that truck on this one just to get it back on the road.
The old tires were bald and the tires I pulled off his truck have great tread and I needed to do something with them.

I'll try to find a replacement tire. I only drive this truck about 3k a year. Its a spare truck I keep around.

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

It won't hurt it on that design because it has a center disconnect that basically disconnects one axle (right axle) from the differential carrier. On that design the front differential pinion and side gears always spin while driving in 2wd because the left axle doesn't disconnect from the differential. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it into 4wd with two different matching tires though or have two different tires in the rear.

Response From jackx Top Rated Answer

Thanks Descrete. I guess your post settles this issue. I got worried after reading the other posts
and was afraid to drive down to get the mismatched tire replaced and I jacked it up and have it
in my Blazer now to take down.

You confirmed my suspicions when I saw that the front wheels are not engaged in any way to each
other.

I guess having the two tires the same will make it possible to nail the alignment. I just used a
sheet rock square to align it so far. I slid it up to both the front and rear side of each front tire and
both tires are perpendicular to the ground now after I adjusted the control adjusting bolts. I only wanted to
make sure the wheels were 90 degrees to the ground. I just put new ball joints and upper control
arms on it. It drives great down the road now. I did not change out the tie rods so I figure the toe is ok.

I'll watch the front tires to see how they are wearing and I may even take it down and have a shop
check the alignment after I get the tires back on it.

I was going to replace another of the tires anyway. I believe it took 4 or 5 weights to get it to balance out.
It was on the front end of the truck and I drove it with the ball joints and control arm bushing worn out
for a long time. The tire reflects this in that it has scallops on it so bad the truck starts to have a slight
vibration once you get up to 70 mph. I put that tire on the back but I believe it is the root of the problem and
I'll move it to being a spare and replace it with another 50 dollar tire. Hopefully after today everything will be
copacetic.

Response From Hammer Time

What you don't understand is the differential has side (spider) gears to allow it to make turns. When both wheels travel at the same speed those side gears are not moving or engaged at all. As soon as one wheel turns faster than the other. the side gears engage and will wear them out in no time and the metal worn off of them will destroy the rest of the differential.

Response From jackx

I bought a used 235/75/14 for 50 bucks that I will put on the front tomorrow and replace the 235/70/15.
Supposedly its in good shape with about 80% of the tread left. We will see tomorrow I guess.

Back when I got that Jimmy it seems like I needed it every year in the winter because back then it snowed every year.
That was 24 years ago. Since I turned 65 I stay home when it snows and it doesn't snow as much now.

I still have bad winter in Texas tough A couple years ago we had a ice storm and the ice was thick on my trucks cab.
When it slide off it took all the paint with it. That's why I had to paint it last week when I decided to put it back on the road. I didn't have the truck operational during that ice storm and I spun my Blazer around 3 times just going to the store.

Now I guess I can use 4wd if I need it this winter if it snows.

Response From Hammer Time

How do you propose you are going to put a 14" tire on a 15" rim?

Response From jackx

just like the gop debates guess you got me. I meant 15

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Spring for the right tire! You can't put a 14" tire on a 15" rim anyway at all no matter what.


The middle # is % high as it is wide for same numbers which is why a 75 means % is taller hence the circumference difference.


NO. I don't care if the next 14" is on a rim that might fit and bet not. There's more to it than you think. Tires really should be of the suggested size the vehicle maker lists and at least even on most per axle - type, wear and size. If you put ONE brand new tire on a vehicle with 1/2 worn tires it's trouble enough even if you find he exact one new.


OK - now you said Texas and assorted weather of course the state's so big. Got it. TMK almost all has tons of long straight driving and that's when the differential will always think it's slightly turning and mess with it.


Other - 4X4 isn't magic by itself for ice. There's some that nothing is going anywhere for a while and shouldn't.
Wasting time with this - get the right matching tire,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's always best for it to match exactly - no argument. This (if I'm right) you should only be using 4X4 just for the time needed to get out of trouble and back to 2WD like two like it I've owned. Forget and plain wet roads over 30 MPH or turns you feel it bind so mismatched is always binding a bit in this case.
If this has ABS at all you should see it under hood and a light should light while starting the truck and go out as in OFF.
In short to suggest as I should have, have matching tires for each axle. Unless this one is different front and rear would matter and wreck it's behavior if using 4X4 on non totally needed situations like stuck.


Even now if the type I think put in 4X4 on dry road/surface and turn sharp and go just walking speed. It will bind like nuts almost hop on you.
If this vehicle is worth a damn get a matching tire and be done with the issue.


What messes me up is why so many people get four wheel drive and don't need it at all or near never. It's a lot of expense and extra stuff to go wrong IMO for the "real truck" type use fine, for everyday a waste,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? It's OK, IMO if just a local vehicle, slower speeds and you don't care that much about tires wearing a bit more and really can't align it that way. 4X4 on all I know of for about then wasn't for any real speed OR not when really needed unlike an AWD which would matter totally.


Preferred of course is matching tires all around if you can swap out for part credit or some deal I would. Right brand too helps.


If nicer and drive more and at speeds change it to the right/matching size,


T