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CTR
2001 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-4B322CE    W0133-1788232  New

Qty:
$52.40
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler Sebring
TRW
2007 Chrysler 300 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4C8F531    W0133-1962464  New

Qty:
$63.50
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Tension Strut
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2007 - Chrysler 300
TRW
1967 Chrysler Imperial Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-3030FBA    W0133-1969477  New

Qty:
$58.31
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1967 - Chrysler Imperial
TRW
2002 Chrysler Town & Country Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5EB1021    W0133-1962542  New

Qty:
$61.99
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2002 - Chrysler Town & Country
TRW
1962 Chrysler 300 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A790FB    W0133-1968285  New

Qty:
$63.58
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Threaded Body
  • Threaded Into Control Arm
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1962 - Chrysler 300
Sankei 555
1987 Chrysler Conquest Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-27402B9    W0133-1629874  New

Qty:
$11.92
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left/Right
Brand: Sankei 555
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1987 - Chrysler Conquest
TRW
1985 Chrysler Laser Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2FACA2E    W0133-1670724  New

Qty:
$41.70
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1985 - Chrysler Laser
TRW
1995 Chrysler Cirrus Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A72F9B    W0133-1669293  New

Qty:
$53.08
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1995 - Chrysler Cirrus
First Equipment Quality
2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-1A404F2    W0133-1875764  New

Qty:
$22.80
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Boot
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Mopar
2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser Suspension Ball Joint Mopar

P311-264368D    W0133-1875764  New

Qty:
$53.13
Mopar Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Boot
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Moog
2007 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Ball Joint Moog

P311-5A25713    W0133-1878220  New

Qty:
$16.58
Moog Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: Moog
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Vehicle
2007 - Chrysler Sebring
TRW
2007 Chrysler Aspen Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2897D48    W0133-1771188  New

Qty:
$64.46
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2007 - Chrysler Aspen
TRW
2004 Chrysler Pacifica Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-04AF3AF    W0133-1969697  New

Qty:
$38.59
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler Pacifica
First Equipment Quality
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-27A58EB    W0133-1670575  New

Qty:
$23.09
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager
TRW
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-046225A    W0133-1670575  New

Qty:
$56.81
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager
First Equipment Quality
1990 Chrysler Imperial Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-27A58EB    W0133-1670575  New

Qty:
$23.09
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler Imperial
First Equipment Quality
2006 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-13B167D    W0133-1876756  New

Qty:
$21.78
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Chrysler Sebring
TRW
2006 Chrysler Sebring Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4575818    W0133-1876756  New

Qty:
$62.71
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2006 - Chrysler Sebring
Moog
2011 Chrysler 300 Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Rearward 8 Cyl 5.7L Moog

P311-08567AD    K80996  New

Qty:
$38.58
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower Rearward
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Problem Solver Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through The Bearing To The Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength And Stability.
    • Feature 2: Moog Engineered Steel Composition Results In A Stronger Component.
    • Feature 3: Full Ball Metal Stud Provides 360 Degrees Of Smooth, Consistent, Rotational Movement Resulting In More Responsive Steering.
    • Feature 4: An Enlarged Ball Joint Receptacle In The Control Arm Can Cause A Loose Ball Joint Fit. Moog Problem Solver Design Includes An Oversized Housing For A More Secure Fit.
    • Feature 5: Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear.
    • Feature 6: Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear.
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Drive Type Position
2011 - Chrysler 300 V - 345 RWD Front Lower Rearward
Mevotech
1975 Chrysler New Yorker Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Mevotech

P311-5149218    MK778  New

Qty:
$17.98
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1975 - Chrysler New Yorker Front Upper

Latest Chrysler Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

drive train

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From charity on drive train

I got in my car and was driving down the road and drivers side front had a good wobble to it. Took car back home jacked it up, I could move the wheel side to side a little so I took tire off but couldn't see anything out of the ordinary going on other than the rotor plate being loose but it tightened up when I put tire back on. car is 2006 Chrysler Seabring with front wheel drive. any thoughts on what problem could be?

Response From Hammer Time

I would spin the tires when in the air and look for one with a deformation that doesn't turn straight. Yo may have a tire with a broken steel belt.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The rotor is going to be loose on that one when the wheel isn't installed. The rotor isn't pressed onto the hub on that design.

Your going to need someone to move the wheel side to side while you watch to see what is loose. You could have a ball joint, wheel bearing, tie rod(s), and/or lower A arm with too much play.

Steering problem at low speeds

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From FeetInTheSand on Steering problem at low speeds

Year of vehicle - 2002
Make of vehicle - Chrysler Intrepid ES
Engine size - 2.7L
Mileage/Kilometers - 90000 miles
Recent Work - Engine replaced 1500 miles ago

Hey,

The issue is that the wheel became very hard to turn once at low speeds specifically in a parking lot getting out of a space. This happened once a couple of days back and has not happened since, is the power steering pump failing, or can this have anything to do with any other steering component? Also can this be related to the engine replacement done recently?

thanks in advance for your assistance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmm? It's not happening now so that will make it tricky of course. I'd look at belt and how tight it is AND check fluid level in PS reservoir.

Look for leaks if low. If this has any "greasable" front end parts - ( a maybe with ball joints) then make sure they are freshly greased.

Lot's of possible things with the R&R of an engine. I would think if something were damaged when removed and replaced it would have shown up right away - a leak might take time.....

T

Response From way2old

It may also have a switch in the high pressure line that raises the rpm when low speed turning is required. It raises the rpm by 50 to 100 to make it easier to turn.

clunk in steering rack 05 pacifica

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From shotgunboss on clunk in steering rack 05 pacifica

my wife has an 05 pacifica all wheel drive limited with 3.5 liter, we bought the car with just under 50k on odometer, earlier this spring (march) she noticed a clunk when turning wheel side to side (about a quarter turn or so) we brought the car to the dealer they charged us $53 to say that there was a noise in the steering rack, and that it would cost $1000 u.s. to repair, i searched the internet and found rebuilt ones for $300 to $500 range, also found used ones with lifetime warranty for $200, we bought a used one, i put it in and everything was fine for about a week then the clunk came back, i checked the inner and outer tie rods and everything seems tight, the clunk had gotten worse so we decided to buy a rebuilt unit, i replaced the rack and new outer tie rods both sides, the clunk is still there, it is somewhere in the rack, i greased both lower ball joints, i have checked all other suspension components and everything is tight or not broken, my question is what is causing the problem, by the way when i turn the wheel lock to lock, and then rock the steering wheel side to side the problem goes away for a short period (rebuilt rack only) is this clunking due to air in the system? i am using the approved fluid atf+4
if air is in system wouldn't the pump whine? or do i need to replace the rack again? any insight would help thank you

Response From Sidom

Disconnect the sway bar link arms from the sway bar to the strut and see if the noise goes away. Just drive it a short distance at slow speeds while the arms are disconnected and makes sure they are secured so they won't hit anything moving while driving........

Response From shotgunboss

ok i will try that, would it be the link ends or what? if the noise goes away! you can feel the "clunk" in the rack when rocking the steering wheel side to side while the front of car is raised and supported on jack stands (wheels completely off ground)

Response From Sidom

If you can get it to clunk while it's sit there in the air, then it probably won't be the problem I'm thinking of. I've had some Chrys with bad sway bar frame bushing that the clunking was transmitting to other areas but would only do it while driving.....

It's not going to hurt to try this and would eliminate the sway bar & links as a possible problem if the noise is still there with them disconnected.....

If you are feeling it in the rack for sure, there may be a problem with the steering coupler or shaft......


Ok, Ok.....Now you're gonna make me have to go & look thru some TSBs...... Darn it... I was really hoping to get thru today with out having to think........

Speaking of which, this is a holiday..... Shouldn't you be at a BBQ or drinkin some beers or something, instead of working on your car.....

Response From shotgunboss

well actually i did the rack yesterday, and was pretty disappointed when the clunk was still there, it is raining here today, so working on it is not an option today, could it be its just because half the unit is aluminum and the other half is steel (which is where the "clunk" is felt, steel housing pass. side)? i will investigate the stab. links, and maybe the coupler? that was a nightmare to get the roll pin out using a hammer and punch the first time so i made a roll pin press which i am in the process of applying for a patent, sure doe's save a lot of time and also eases with removal and installation of coupler to the shaft

Response From Sidom

There are a few TSBs out there.....None apply exactly to the problem but if the shop is having trouble pinpointing the noise they would really need to be looked at, if for no other reason, to be eliminated as a possible cause...

1 is 02-007-04 which is a low speed clunk due to bad control arms. ( I would look at this one real close )

The other two are 02-004-05 frt strut noise problem & 19-006-05 low speed shudder traced to the p/s. The last 2 are doubtful but still need to be checked out.



I found one TSB I couldn't pull up, maybe Desi can run it thru his database to see if it's an actual TSB or typo 02-001-05 (I think it's a typo for 02-004-05)

Response From shotgunboss

after further investigating, i removed the silencer boot up and out of the way from the the floor board and observed the intermediate shaft coupling as i slightly turned the wheel to the right, the intermediate shaft coupling rises up briefly then drops suddenly leaving a thud noise, which i suspect transfers down the lower intermediate shaft then the sector shaft and through the rack itself, my only question is now what needs to be replaced? the u-joint coupling looks and feels in good working order

Response From Sidom

That is the real frustrating thing about chasing down noises. Noises will transmit thru other components making it real hard to confirm. Chevy trucks have a problem with their intermediate shafts and clunking noises so once you've had one, diagnosing the next one is a lot easier. The 1st one is always the one that takes a lot of time...

I checked and didn't see anything listing bad intermediate shafts on PTs but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem with it. On noises like this I 1st like to get the noise to stop. Whether you have to disconnect something, loosen, tighten, flip around, wrap a rag around, (this is where chassis ears are worth double their weight in gold) anything to know you're in the right area. Then you just have to inspect the parts real close for any signs of failure....play, cracks, rubbing marks...... It's tough.... In some case you just have to make an educated guess.....

One that got me, an 03 Caravan had a popping noise from the RF on bumps & turns. Another shop had changed the struts & mounts and the noise sounded exactly like a bad strut mount. Everything looked good except the sway bar link bar on the R had a broken boot & the joint had play. I disconnected the bar, drove it and the noise was gone. I replaced the bad link & the noise came back. I had already looked at the sway bay & frame bushings...Tight, no play, everything looked & felt fine. I took the R frame bushing out and it looked perfect, rubber was fine, hole wasn't oblonged....nothing. I put it back in upside down and the noise was gone..... I installed a new bushing correctly and the noise was gone???????

For the life of me I could not see anything wrong with that bushing but a new one fixed it and I've seen this problem about a 1/2 dozen times since on other Caravans. The 1st one took hours to find. The others take minutes to confirm.....

The 1st one sux & will eat your lunch......

Response From shotgunboss Top Rated Answer

i know what your saying about things that look right but are bad, we have some milltronics vertical mills that have positioning problems on the x axis, due to perfectly good looking drive belts uggh!! but is the rise in the intermediate shaft normal? it looks to be kinda hard for the home technician to replace, only cuz of all the crap thats attached to the power pedals, i had a real hard time getting the boot passed whatever switch is on the left side of the brake pedal, i machined a roll pin press for the lower intermediate shaft, so thats a 3min. job versus an hour plus laying on my back swinging a hammer in a limited space the first time i replaced the rack, does the intermediate shaft just slide out of the steering column? i really dont want to take it back to watertown ford/chrysler as i think there a bunch of idiots!!! and refuse to give them any more of my money, they made my wife feel if she had to replace the rack that day for her safety, i want to go there and just pummel the service managers face in....... i will however get my revenge on them another way!!legally that is

Response From Sidom

I haven't had to change one of those yet but it only calls for .5 so I can't imagine having to remove the column for that. More than likely you'll just have to remove the covers, both pinch bolts and should be able to slide it out.

On jobs like this or doing the rack you want to keep the wheel locked so you don't stretch the air bag cable or damage the clockspring BUT while I had the shaft out I would CAREFULLY turn the wheel while hold the end to see if I could feel any binding or popping. keeping note exactly of where the wheel was to start, how far I went in each direction and not going more that one turn in either direction. All this would be assuming the wheels were straight or a close as possible to start with.

I would also want to move the rack while it was disconnected to see if I could feel the noise. Keeping this end lined up correctly is a bit harder so if there was any doubt at all......I wouldn't do it...........

Response From Hammer Time

No, I can't find that number either.

Response From Sidom

Yea those pins are a PITA. One thing you can try real quick is to grab the coupler and shaft from inside while someone moves the wheels. If the clunk goes away or you can feel it coming out of the shaft that would help to narrow it down....

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

____________________

Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL