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TRW
1973 Buick Apollo Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4ED3DD4    New

Qty:
$61.94
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1973 - Buick Apollo
TRW
1973 Buick Apollo Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-4FA7D5B    New

Qty:
$52.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1973 - Buick Apollo
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$9.78
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1985 - Buick Century
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.86
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1989 - Buick Regal
TRW
1989 Buick Regal Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-3373E12    New

Qty:
$86.96
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1989 - Buick Regal
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.86
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1990 - Buick Regal
CTR
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-3B484E2    New

Qty:
$44.88
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
TRW
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-39EA93B    New

Qty:
$125.53
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
CTR
1991 Buick Roadmaster Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-2B029C7    New

Qty:
$38.49
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
1991 - Buick Roadmaster
TRW
1991 Buick Roadmaster Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-15582A3    New

Qty:
$62.07
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1991 - Buick Roadmaster
CTR
1988 Buick Skyhawk Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-5DA4C71    New

Qty:
$34.81
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
1988 - Buick Skyhawk
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$21.71
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Upper
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
TRW
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-33A274D    New

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$74.87
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Upper
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$21.71
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2005 - Buick Rainier
ACDelco
1986 Buick Regal Suspension Ball Joint ACDelco

P311-1B1E5B7    New

Qty:
$29.26
ACDelco Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1986 - Buick Regal
TRW
1986 Buick Regal Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2599E0E    New

Qty:
$47.85
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1986 - Buick Regal
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$23.21
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1986 - Buick Regal
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$25.73
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2003 - Buick Century
TRW
2003 Buick Century Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-33BAA46    New

Qty:
$56.69
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2003 - Buick Century
ACDelco
2000 Buick LeSabre Suspension Ball Joint ACDelco

P311-47025AB    New

Qty:
$57.50
ACDelco Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Steel Arm
  • Ball Joint - Only. Installation will require the appropriate Bolts, Nuts and Washers. These are not included with the Ball Joint.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2000 - Buick LeSabre

Latest Buick Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

My Buick was wobbling

Showing 2 out of 27 Posts | Show 25 Hidden Posts
Question From greasy one on My Buick was wobbling

I spent half the day fighting a tie rod change, for details and a laugh ask for details. I have a 93 Lasabre. I just have a question to axe. Do I unscrew the inner tie rod to remove it and the problem outer part or figure how to remove the frozen outer?

Response From Discretesignals

You can't remove the inner tie rod with the outer tie rod installed. You'll need to figure out how to get the outer off. If you can't get the outer tie rod off, you'll have to cut it off and replace the inner.

Response From greasy one

The outer tie rod is cut off ABOVE the piece of metal thingy that holds the outer tie rod. I used a sawzall and messed up. The castle nut area, UNDER the mounting thingy should have been cut. The slug of metal is still trapped. My question is about the freed up inner rod. I, easily, turned it 4 revolutions and wonder if that is the way to go or do I need to mess with the inner boot to free something.

Response From Hammer Time

Of course you have to remove the boot. The end is a ball in a socket and the rod will just rotate in the socket forever. You need to reach the inner nut.

It looks like you may have already destroyed the knuckle cutting off the other end.

You DO realize that is a tapered shaft wedged into the hole and has to be either pressed or jarred loose.



edit: I see you just posted ahead of me while I was typing. You will need more than vice grips to hold that. A pipe wrench would work better.

Response From greasy one

Well for some reason, I have never owned vicegrips, but do now and some c-clamps, and sawzall blades. Will find a pipe wrench. It sounds like maybe I can just turn out that outer,maybe. The new plug in the spindle wants to come out, it is real close now.


Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Ok...I thought he was meaning he couldn't remove the outer tie rod from the inner. More than likely the knuckle bore is going to be wallowed out. You'll need to replace the knuckle if that is the case. You could blow the nut off with a cutting torch and then pop the rest of the ball joint shaft out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OMG - That would have just come off with a normal pickle fork with nut removed. Cotter pin stuck and all nut would have come off with air or heated with air.


Just made this a project never mind anything else,


T

Response From Discretesignals

In the beginning was the shaft spinning while you were trying to take the nut off.

Response From greasy one

Heck ya the castle nut was just spinning, I am just way out of practice and cut in the wrong place. I think that spindle hole may be wallowed out also but hope it was the tie rod.

Response From Discretesignals

Well you might be in luck. If you can pop the nut off, then you can wack the rest of the shaft up through the knuckle bore. As long as the shaft itself wasn't spinning, the bore might be fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Always hard to say but my torches would split that nut without heating arm. Glow nut on other side and open it, it would fall off.


Then a punch smaller than the threads to they don't widen punch it out. If no luck whack the side of the arm them pop right out.


See crap like that you can't even recognize there's nut at all from rust and still get those out,


T

Response From Discretesignals

I've ran into a couple of cheapy chinese tie rod ends where the cheap castle nut threads pulled while tightening it. Then the nut wouldn't come back off and just spun on the shaft. With all the rust, it could of eatin the nut threads up also. If the nut and the shaft were both spinning trying to take the tie rod off, then it is going to need a knuckle for sure.

Response From greasy one

Back inside at laptop I was scaring my recalcitrant outer tie rod off.


Response From greasy one


Response From greasy one

Well no ones biting.


I went Medieval on her but got lucky and even went for a highway cruise. The spindle was fine and the car is not clicking/ clacking anymore and seems to be rolling straight. I need to get a oil change and grease that new tie rod end thou. Thanks for the help. It made me realize what was up with the inner tie rod.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Looks like this worked out. Now put the "Saw's All" away and get a good grease gun and never fight with this crap again. Good ones aren't cheap with pistol grip vs lever action takes three hands or buy fitting end that can't fall off for about $40 bucks.


Don't over grease either but eventually blobs of excess come out. Use that on parts to rust proof them. Doesn't look like this this has seen a grease job in a decade. Try 4 times a year on everything if the car as a whole is safe enough to keep and use. Fitting can be replaced BTW and if one wont take grease at all it's probably worn flush inside and that part NG anymore.


Just look back at your floor jack - it's so rusty I don't trust that much so careful with these things.


Next job if this was such a mess is to check every single joint and suspension part that could be in trouble. I've seen rust tons worse than that and also have seen whole components pull right off whole from where mounted.


Again, check all the other things that could be this bad and a total safety concern either rust or worn out from lack of service,


T

Response From greasy one

I think you have seen, elsewhere, what already happened to this car, several years back. The tiny washers holding the rear sub frame rusted. This allowed the bolts to slide thru the bushings and both sides of sub frame dropped, this caused an immediate loss of steering. I fixed it with some huge washers and new bolts. I also, can undercoated, the whole car after wire wheeling what I could.

Response From Hammer Time

Why are you still driving that thing. Are you going to wait until the engine falls out in the street?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not there. They can do that and just force pickle fork for pressure and I call it "scare" it out with high impact wrench. If hole isn't any good and might not be think about it then?


It's done no matter what just too bad IMO,


T

Response From Hammer Time

That piece is never coming out of the knuckle as long as the nut is on the other side. You never should have hacked it up. You only made it harder now.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to cut the strap the holds the rack boot to the rack housing and then remove the little clamp at the other end of the boot. You still need to remove the nut, so you can slide the little clamp and rubber boot off. Once you get that out, you need the inner tie rod remover and installer tool. Autozone may have one you can borrow. When you reinstall the rack boot be sure the equalizer tube is installed. Use a black zip tie in place of the strap that you cut off.




There are probably tons of tube videos showing how to remove and install inner tie rods with the special tool.

Response From greasy one

Oh no what a mess, but thanks

Response From Discretesignals

You'll get it. Replacing the inner tie rod isn't that difficult. There is no torque specs I can find, so it has to be tight. There may be torque specs in the box the new inner tie rod comes in, maybe. I'd rather do the inner tie rod than the fan/light I installed in my bathroom yesterday...hahaha.

Response From greasy one

I am not replacing the inner and it looks like if I can keep the inner from turning, then the outer should turn off the inner tie rod. The problem is I need vicegrips to hold the inner and the outer jam nut is rusty and jammed good. Do I really need to mess with inner?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just asking DS - can you still buy just the adjustment/threaded sleeve still new and easily? T

Response From Hammer Time

Just asking DS - can you still buy just the adjustment/threaded sleeve still new and easily? T

This is rack and Pinion steering. There are no adjusting sleeves.



Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks - brain Phart - locking nut - duh. I've never owned alignment machines so if only to center wheels they went out for the full printout and other adjustment if needed with anything that could alter it,


T

Front end ibration

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From heinz57 on Front end ibration

Have a 93 Buick Skylark 3.3 approx 160,000 miles. Developed a steering wheel vibration at speeds over 20 mph when turning to the left only, going straight or turning right causes no vibration. Have checked motor mounts, wheel bearings, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings and cv boots. I do have a seal leak at right side of the transaxel but everything else checks out ok. Wandering if I have a bad inner cv joint and best way to check it.

Response From Hammer Time

Exactly how did you go about checking the wheel bearings?

Response From heinz57

Thanks for the response. Jacked up car and did the 12 6 and 9 3 and no movement.

Response From Hammer Time

That will never work here. These are hub assemblies and rarely show any movement. Wheel bearings are still a real possibility.

Response From heinz57

So there must be a way to check the wheel bearing. I have no noise coming from the wheels. Have replaced hub assembly before on my other car but could tell bearing was bad from noise. What other way can I check the bearing?

Response From Hammer Time

But you do have a noise. You just don't know where it's coming from. Hub bearings are not easy things to diagnose simply because until they are totally shredded, they only make noise with the weight of the car on them so you have a real hard time hearing them when the weight is off the wheel.

Response From heinz57

So what do you recommend? Started this thread so I would not be spending money replacing parts without knowing for sure where my problem was.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I'm afraid the Internet is not the best way to look for a noise solution. This is the type of problem that is recognized by a trained ear with years of experience. I suggest you get some opinions from some reliable local shops. We can advise on on facts and procedures but we can't hear noises so we can't be much help there.

1999 buick century powersteering

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From N.giarc on 1999 buick century powersteering

powersteering randomly fails when turning to the left. with a quick jerk of the steering wheel to the right it will free itself and will let me continue to turn, sometimes it will stick again before i complete the turn other times it will last a couple of days before failing again. the fluid level is good and has never been low. i have been told i may have air in the system, if this is the case how do i drain the rack? i have ruled out the pump as it only fails turning to the left. i don't want to put a new rack in it, any ideas???

Response From dave284

Most of the time if you have air in the system there will be a sort of a whine,try turning with the cap off the pump.

Response From N.giarc

no whine, although when it fails i do hear a clunk sound come from drivers side. could the gears be shot in the rack?? if they are why doesn't it fail all the time and in the same spot of the turn??

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

The best way to make sure what the sound is.... take and raise the the car /remove the tire and grab the tie rod and check for movement and do visual inspection tie rod/lower ball joint check for big deposits of grease,torn boots,ects Also check the steering linkage up to the u-joint -coupler at the steering wheel shaft

Response From N.giarc

just put new tie/rods in and complete inspection and found nothing. the noise, seems to be coming from the steering box. can the system be drained without putting it under pressure??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add: There are inner TREs too. Possible clunk from those but not a binding?? There probably is a problem with the rack itself buy maybe flushing it all out or try a fav of mine, Trans-X , but just a little and give it some time. It's solved many and hasn't hurt anything yet for me,

T

Response From Guest

Yea Tom ,I'm starting to think the fault is in the rack too, tranx good stuff next to a new r/p I would try it

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I've had amazing luck with that stuff even for shaft seals which in reality should respond to tricks. It really seems to disolve some shallac from heat that even PS and ATF can build up plus swells rubber but not much or too much for me yet??

T

Response From N.giarc

thanks guys...will i have to drain it after??

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/b0/42/0900823d8004b042/repairInfoPages.htm Try this, may help a little more

1999 LeSabre no condensate from A/C

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 1999 LeSabre no condensate from A/C

1999 Buick with a 3.8L V6 with 68,686 miles. A/C cooling but not enough. New collector/drier and orifice tube. Flushed lines and recharged system to spec.

The problem is that there is zero condensate with ambient from 85 to 105 and Relative Humidity at the Sauna level. It doesn't matter if the car is up hill or down hill. There is no condensate coming from the down hole.

I have run a flexible cable up the hose but can get it only about 4 to 5 inches before I hit something solid - assuming I am rotorutting the right tube. It is just on the bottom of the firewall just above the bottom ball joint on the passenger side of the car.

Is the correct way to clear this tube high pressure air ? Or what?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If you're not seeing water inside the car either, then there probably isn't any. Feel the temp of the large pipe at the evaporator and that should be very cold. Then feel the liquid line where it leaves the condenser, headed to the evap and that one should be warm, but not hot.
You also need to put a set of gauges on here and get some accurate pressure readings.

Response From comnavguy

There is no water inside and zero coming out of the drip pipe.

The pipe at the evap is icy cold and has condensate all over it. The liquid line is very warm, not hot.

Ambient is 88, RH 50%: Low side: 35. High side: 220. Center vent 57 at idle.

1500 RPM CV is 53. Driving around 30 to 35 MPH CV is 51 to 53.

And still no condensate from drip pipe. Powder dry. There has always been condensate before.

And that is with a new accumulator/dryer and orifice tube, complete evacuation held for over 30 minutes and recharged to spec. Something is wrong.


If you're not seeing water inside the car either, then there probably isn't any. Feel the temp of the large pipe at the evaporator and that should be very cold. Then feel the liquid line where it leaves the condenser, headed to the evap and that one should be warm, but not hot.
You also need to put a set of gauges on here and get some accurate pressure readings.

Response From Hammer Time

Everything you're telling me says it is definitely creating condensation and it has to be going somewhere. I don't know why you're not seeing a puddle inside the car yet. I guess the first thing to try is compressed air from the outside drain tube to try to clean it out.

Response From comnavguy

Yessir, as hot and humid as it's been in Dallas, water gotta be going somewhere, but the carpet feels powder dry and there ain't a drop coming out of the drain pipe. I'm gonna give it a hit of compressed air and I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks again.

Response From Discretesignals

One trick I used to see if the drain was plugged was to close all the vents with the blower on high. You should feel air being blown out of the drain.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure if this is involved and never found by me but some GMs used an "elephant" nose end to the drains to minimize small amount of air blowing in or out and solution was just to snip a bit off. Even so, that would back up the condensate somewhere and should be noticed? Just a maybe,

T