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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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Best Selling Genuine Buick Ball Joints

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including CTR, First Equipment Quality, TRW, Moog, Mevotech
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Buick Replacement Ball Joint Parts
CTR
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-3B484E2    W0133-1870194  New

Qty:
$60.89
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
First Equipment Quality
2009 Buick Allure Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-384D10F    W0133-1834168  New

Qty:
$34.41
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Buick Allure
First Equipment Quality
2003 Buick Century Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-384D10F    W0133-1834168  New

Qty:
$34.41
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Buick Century
First Equipment Quality
2009 Buick Allure Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-384D10F    W0133-1834168  New

Qty:
$34.41
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Buick Allure
TRW
2007 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5CF57CB    W0133-1870189  New

Qty:
$154.09
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Buick Rainier
TRW
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5CF57CB    W0133-1870189  New

Qty:
$154.09
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Upper
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
TRW
2004 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-39EA93B    W0133-1870194  New

Qty:
$165.49
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
Moog
2017 Buick Enclave Suspension Ball Joint Moog

P311-46749DC    W0133-1944614  New

Qty:
$185.51
Moog Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Buick Enclave
TRW
2009 Buick Allure Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-33BAA46    W0133-1834168  New

Qty:
$80.77
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Buick Allure
Mevotech
2007 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Mevotech

P311-27C5535    MK6664  New

101-7701 , MK6664 , XK6664 , 2601559 , 22157320 , 19133638 , 45D0112 , 5001112 , JBJ848 , TK6664 , TC2217 , K6664 , FA2199 , B6664 , BJ92135 , 46D0112A , BJ92135XL , 8191336380 , IK6664 , FA2199E , 104332

Qty:
$50.76
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Features & Benefits 4: Circlip Included, Provides Supplementary Retention To The Ball Joint Housing, Securing It In Place.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Grooved
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Buick Rainier Front Upper
Mevotech
2007 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-3E75E3E    MK6663  New

19133670 , 22157319 , K6663 , TC1845 , XK6663 , BJ90005 , TK6663 , 45D2296 , JBJ847 , B6663 , 104335 , IK6663 , BJ92145 , 46D2296A , MK6663 , FA2200E , BJ92145XL , 101-6749

Qty:
$41.52
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Features & Benefits 4: Circlip Included, Provides Supplementary Retention To The Ball Joint Housing, Securing It In Place.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Buick Rainier Front Lower
Mevotech
1974 Buick Riviera Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Mevotech

P311-3EF3C65    MK5208  New

MK5208 , 8097671120 , FA688 , 8889113870 , JBJ7023 , IK5208 , 9767112 , TK5208 , 46D0016A , FA688E , 335878 , K5208 , B5208 , 45D0016 , XK5208

Qty:
$19.16
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Bolt In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1974 - Buick Riviera Front Upper
Mevotech
1974 Buick Regal Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-168F185    MK6145T  New

MK6145T , K6145T , FA921 , XK6145 , 19122185 , JBJ1008 , 45D2027 , BJ92065 , 45D2026 , 5051026OS , 22156500 , 9767281 , B6145 , 8191221850 , IK6145 , 5051026OSB , IK6145T , K6145 , 46D2026A , 104113 , 5051026B , FA921E , 9751193 , TK6145T

Qty:
$22.08
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1974 - Buick Regal Front Lower
Mevotech
2009 Buick Allure Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-5B0AECF    MK5331  New

88965333 , K5331 , 45D2259 , 22688405 , XK5331 , MK5331 , 104257 , BJ92105 , 15877580 , 22156822 , 10443711 , TK5331 , FA2174 , 88955451 , BJ2268 , 4334578J00 , 46D2259A , JBJ7008 , BJ60001 , IK5331 , 22156969 , B5331 , 22157089

Qty:
$33.09
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Bolt In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Buick Allure Front Lower
Mevotech
1974 Buick Riviera Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-578075B    MK6141  New

IK6141T , 46D2024A , B6141 , K6141 , MK6141 , TK6141 , 9766421 , JBJ903 , XK6141 , FA692 , 88965475 , 7808865 , FA692E , IK6141 , K6141T , 45D2024

Qty:
$28.01
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Bootstaller Tool Provided In The Box To Ensure Proper Ball Joint Boot Installation.
    • Product Feature 2: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 3: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1974 - Buick Riviera Front Lower
Mevotech
1989 Buick Regal Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-46FFF90    MK5301  New

B5301 , FA1634 , JBJ1010 , 17988890 , 46D2148A , XK5301 , 45D2148 , MK5301 , BJ92095 , IK5301 , TK5301 , K5301 , 17989117

Qty:
$17.61
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Bolt In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Buick Regal Front Lower
Moog
1979 Buick Skylark Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Moog

P311-492F2CC    K5208  New

6258152 , MK5208 , 9767112 , 02-82008 , 9764615 , 338388 , R240112 , 335878 , 10268 , A1-175 , 801-10268 , E-6274-TU , 9762023 , 14039014 , 500-1016 , 8-09767-112-0 , 801-31126 , B5208 , 3986009 , 260-1091 , FA688 , FA688E , 9763761 , BJ-1268 , 1268K , 305135 , E6274 , SP9001 , 02-86021 , 45D0016

Qty:
$22.72
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Hardened Ball Stud Made Of Oe Equivalent Or Better Materials To Withstand Higher Loads
    • Feature 2:
      • Patent Pending Dust Boot With Encapsulated Belleville Washer Help Control Axial And Radial Movement
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 4:
      • Heavy Duty Gauge Steel Construction For Strength And Durability
      • Premium Forged Housing With Increased Cross Section Of Up To 52% More Material In Key Areas
    • Feature 5: Larger Grease Reservoir And Easy-to-install Pre-tapped Grease Fitting Hole For Improved Maintenance
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Reduces Corrosion And Wear By Allowing New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants
    • Mounting Type: Bolt In
    • Suspension Grade Type: Standard
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Buick Skylark Front Upper
Moog
1979 Buick Skylark Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-2FCA548    K6145T  New

MK6145T , 10277 , E6233 , 02-82032 , A1-155 , 9761501 , 505-1026OS , 9764581 , 45D2026 , 45D2027 , 305153 , 9767113 , 02-82009 , 260-1130OS , 8-09767-113-0 , 277K , E-6233-TU , SP9020 , BJ-1277 , 505-1026 , 9767281 , 260-1096 , 6260591 , R240117 , 8191221850 , 282009 , 19122185 , 9756251 , 6260592 , E6261 , 22113159 , 801-10277 , FA921E , 282032 , FA3000 , 22156500 , 260-1130 , FA921 , 9751193 , B6145 , 22145460

Qty:
$27.17
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Hardened Ball Stud Made Of Oe Equivalent Or Better Materials To Withstand Higher Loads
    • Feature 2:
      • Patent Pending Dust Boot With Encapsulated Belleville Washer Help Control Axial And Radial Movement
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 4:
      • Heavy Duty Gauge Steel Construction For Strength And Durability
      • Premium Forged Housing With Increased Cross Section Of Up To 52% More Material In Key Areas
    • Feature 5: Larger Grease Reservoir And Easy-to-install Pre-tapped Grease Fitting Hole For Improved Maintenance
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Reduces Corrosion And Wear By Allowing New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants
    • Mounting Type: Press-in
    • Suspension Grade Type: Standard
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Buick Skylark Front Lower
Moog
2007 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-40CC485    K6663  New

22157319 , 8221573190 , 45D2296 , FA2200 , 505-1296 , 104335 , MK6663 , 260-1560

Qty:
$56.30
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Hardened Ball Stud Made Of Oe Equivalent Or Better Materials To Withstand Higher Loads
    • Feature 2:
      • Patent Pending Dust Boot With Encapsulated Belleville Washer Help Control Axial And Radial Movement
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 4:
      • Heavy Duty Gauge Steel Construction For Strength And Durability
      • Premium Forged Housing With Increased Cross Section Of Up To 52% More Material In Key Areas
    • Feature 5: Larger Grease Reservoir And Easy-to-install Pre-tapped Grease Fitting Hole For Improved Maintenance
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Reduces Corrosion And Wear By Allowing New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants
    • Maximum Outside Diameter: 2.280
    • Mounting Type: Press-in
    • Suspension Grade Type: Standard
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Buick Rainier Front Lower
Moog
2007 Buick Rainier Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Moog

P311-50DFB73    K6664  New

FA2199 , 22157320 , 8191336380 , 19133638 , B6664 , FA258 , 104332 , 500-1112 , 45D0112 , 101-7701 , 8221573200 , FA2199E , 260-1559 , MK6664

Qty:
$54.30
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Hardened Ball Stud Made Of Oe Equivalent Or Better Materials To Withstand Higher Loads
    • Feature 2:
      • Patent Pending Dust Boot With Encapsulated Belleville Washer Help Control Axial And Radial Movement
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 4:
      • Heavy Duty Gauge Steel Construction For Strength And Durability
      • Premium Forged Housing With Increased Cross Section Of Up To 52% More Material In Key Areas
    • Feature 5: Larger Grease Reservoir And Easy-to-install Pre-tapped Grease Fitting Hole For Improved Maintenance
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Reduces Corrosion And Wear By Allowing New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants
    • Mounting Type: Press-in
    • Suspension Grade Type: Standard
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Buick Rainier Front Upper

Latest Buick Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

My Buick was wobbling

Showing 2 out of 27 Posts | Show 25 Hidden Posts
Question From greasy one on My Buick was wobbling

I spent half the day fighting a tie rod change, for details and a laugh ask for details. I have a 93 Lasabre. I just have a question to axe. Do I unscrew the inner tie rod to remove it and the problem outer part or figure how to remove the frozen outer?

Response From Discretesignals

You can't remove the inner tie rod with the outer tie rod installed. You'll need to figure out how to get the outer off. If you can't get the outer tie rod off, you'll have to cut it off and replace the inner.

Response From greasy one

The outer tie rod is cut off ABOVE the piece of metal thingy that holds the outer tie rod. I used a sawzall and messed up. The castle nut area, UNDER the mounting thingy should have been cut. The slug of metal is still trapped. My question is about the freed up inner rod. I, easily, turned it 4 revolutions and wonder if that is the way to go or do I need to mess with the inner boot to free something.

Response From Hammer Time

Of course you have to remove the boot. The end is a ball in a socket and the rod will just rotate in the socket forever. You need to reach the inner nut.

It looks like you may have already destroyed the knuckle cutting off the other end.

You DO realize that is a tapered shaft wedged into the hole and has to be either pressed or jarred loose.



edit: I see you just posted ahead of me while I was typing. You will need more than vice grips to hold that. A pipe wrench would work better.

Response From greasy one

Well for some reason, I have never owned vicegrips, but do now and some c-clamps, and sawzall blades. Will find a pipe wrench. It sounds like maybe I can just turn out that outer,maybe. The new plug in the spindle wants to come out, it is real close now.


Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Ok...I thought he was meaning he couldn't remove the outer tie rod from the inner. More than likely the knuckle bore is going to be wallowed out. You'll need to replace the knuckle if that is the case. You could blow the nut off with a cutting torch and then pop the rest of the ball joint shaft out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OMG - That would have just come off with a normal pickle fork with nut removed. Cotter pin stuck and all nut would have come off with air or heated with air.


Just made this a project never mind anything else,


T

Response From Discretesignals

In the beginning was the shaft spinning while you were trying to take the nut off.

Response From greasy one

Heck ya the castle nut was just spinning, I am just way out of practice and cut in the wrong place. I think that spindle hole may be wallowed out also but hope it was the tie rod.

Response From Discretesignals

Well you might be in luck. If you can pop the nut off, then you can wack the rest of the shaft up through the knuckle bore. As long as the shaft itself wasn't spinning, the bore might be fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Always hard to say but my torches would split that nut without heating arm. Glow nut on other side and open it, it would fall off.


Then a punch smaller than the threads to they don't widen punch it out. If no luck whack the side of the arm them pop right out.


See crap like that you can't even recognize there's nut at all from rust and still get those out,


T

Response From Discretesignals

I've ran into a couple of cheapy chinese tie rod ends where the cheap castle nut threads pulled while tightening it. Then the nut wouldn't come back off and just spun on the shaft. With all the rust, it could of eatin the nut threads up also. If the nut and the shaft were both spinning trying to take the tie rod off, then it is going to need a knuckle for sure.

Response From greasy one

Back inside at laptop I was scaring my recalcitrant outer tie rod off.


Response From greasy one


Response From greasy one

Well no ones biting.


I went Medieval on her but got lucky and even went for a highway cruise. The spindle was fine and the car is not clicking/ clacking anymore and seems to be rolling straight. I need to get a oil change and grease that new tie rod end thou. Thanks for the help. It made me realize what was up with the inner tie rod.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Looks like this worked out. Now put the "Saw's All" away and get a good grease gun and never fight with this crap again. Good ones aren't cheap with pistol grip vs lever action takes three hands or buy fitting end that can't fall off for about $40 bucks.


Don't over grease either but eventually blobs of excess come out. Use that on parts to rust proof them. Doesn't look like this this has seen a grease job in a decade. Try 4 times a year on everything if the car as a whole is safe enough to keep and use. Fitting can be replaced BTW and if one wont take grease at all it's probably worn flush inside and that part NG anymore.


Just look back at your floor jack - it's so rusty I don't trust that much so careful with these things.


Next job if this was such a mess is to check every single joint and suspension part that could be in trouble. I've seen rust tons worse than that and also have seen whole components pull right off whole from where mounted.


Again, check all the other things that could be this bad and a total safety concern either rust or worn out from lack of service,


T

Response From greasy one

I think you have seen, elsewhere, what already happened to this car, several years back. The tiny washers holding the rear sub frame rusted. This allowed the bolts to slide thru the bushings and both sides of sub frame dropped, this caused an immediate loss of steering. I fixed it with some huge washers and new bolts. I also, can undercoated, the whole car after wire wheeling what I could.

Response From Hammer Time

Why are you still driving that thing. Are you going to wait until the engine falls out in the street?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not there. They can do that and just force pickle fork for pressure and I call it "scare" it out with high impact wrench. If hole isn't any good and might not be think about it then?


It's done no matter what just too bad IMO,


T

Response From Hammer Time

That piece is never coming out of the knuckle as long as the nut is on the other side. You never should have hacked it up. You only made it harder now.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to cut the strap the holds the rack boot to the rack housing and then remove the little clamp at the other end of the boot. You still need to remove the nut, so you can slide the little clamp and rubber boot off. Once you get that out, you need the inner tie rod remover and installer tool. Autozone may have one you can borrow. When you reinstall the rack boot be sure the equalizer tube is installed. Use a black zip tie in place of the strap that you cut off.




There are probably tons of tube videos showing how to remove and install inner tie rods with the special tool.

Response From greasy one

Oh no what a mess, but thanks

Response From Discretesignals

You'll get it. Replacing the inner tie rod isn't that difficult. There is no torque specs I can find, so it has to be tight. There may be torque specs in the box the new inner tie rod comes in, maybe. I'd rather do the inner tie rod than the fan/light I installed in my bathroom yesterday...hahaha.

Response From greasy one

I am not replacing the inner and it looks like if I can keep the inner from turning, then the outer should turn off the inner tie rod. The problem is I need vicegrips to hold the inner and the outer jam nut is rusty and jammed good. Do I really need to mess with inner?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just asking DS - can you still buy just the adjustment/threaded sleeve still new and easily? T

Response From Hammer Time

Just asking DS - can you still buy just the adjustment/threaded sleeve still new and easily? T

This is rack and Pinion steering. There are no adjusting sleeves.



Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks - brain Phart - locking nut - duh. I've never owned alignment machines so if only to center wheels they went out for the full printout and other adjustment if needed with anything that could alter it,


T

Front end ibration

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From heinz57 on Front end ibration

Have a 93 Buick Skylark 3.3 approx 160,000 miles. Developed a steering wheel vibration at speeds over 20 mph when turning to the left only, going straight or turning right causes no vibration. Have checked motor mounts, wheel bearings, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings and cv boots. I do have a seal leak at right side of the transaxel but everything else checks out ok. Wandering if I have a bad inner cv joint and best way to check it.

Response From Hammer Time

Exactly how did you go about checking the wheel bearings?

Response From heinz57

Thanks for the response. Jacked up car and did the 12 6 and 9 3 and no movement.

Response From Hammer Time

That will never work here. These are hub assemblies and rarely show any movement. Wheel bearings are still a real possibility.

Response From heinz57

So there must be a way to check the wheel bearing. I have no noise coming from the wheels. Have replaced hub assembly before on my other car but could tell bearing was bad from noise. What other way can I check the bearing?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

But you do have a noise. You just don't know where it's coming from. Hub bearings are not easy things to diagnose simply because until they are totally shredded, they only make noise with the weight of the car on them so you have a real hard time hearing them when the weight is off the wheel.

Response From heinz57

So what do you recommend? Started this thread so I would not be spending money replacing parts without knowing for sure where my problem was.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm afraid the Internet is not the best way to look for a noise solution. This is the type of problem that is recognized by a trained ear with years of experience. I suggest you get some opinions from some reliable local shops. We can advise on on facts and procedures but we can't hear noises so we can't be much help there.

1999 buick century powersteering

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From N.giarc on 1999 buick century powersteering

powersteering randomly fails when turning to the left. with a quick jerk of the steering wheel to the right it will free itself and will let me continue to turn, sometimes it will stick again before i complete the turn other times it will last a couple of days before failing again. the fluid level is good and has never been low. i have been told i may have air in the system, if this is the case how do i drain the rack? i have ruled out the pump as it only fails turning to the left. i don't want to put a new rack in it, any ideas???

Response From dave284

Most of the time if you have air in the system there will be a sort of a whine,try turning with the cap off the pump.

Response From N.giarc

no whine, although when it fails i do hear a clunk sound come from drivers side. could the gears be shot in the rack?? if they are why doesn't it fail all the time and in the same spot of the turn??

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

The best way to make sure what the sound is.... take and raise the the car /remove the tire and grab the tie rod and check for movement and do visual inspection tie rod/lower ball joint check for big deposits of grease,torn boots,ects Also check the steering linkage up to the u-joint -coupler at the steering wheel shaft

Response From N.giarc

just put new tie/rods in and complete inspection and found nothing. the noise, seems to be coming from the steering box. can the system be drained without putting it under pressure??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add: There are inner TREs too. Possible clunk from those but not a binding?? There probably is a problem with the rack itself buy maybe flushing it all out or try a fav of mine, Trans-X , but just a little and give it some time. It's solved many and hasn't hurt anything yet for me,

T

Response From Guest

Yea Tom ,I'm starting to think the fault is in the rack too, tranx good stuff next to a new r/p I would try it

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I've had amazing luck with that stuff even for shaft seals which in reality should respond to tricks. It really seems to disolve some shallac from heat that even PS and ATF can build up plus swells rubber but not much or too much for me yet??

T

Response From N.giarc

thanks guys...will i have to drain it after??

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/b0/42/0900823d8004b042/repairInfoPages.htm Try this, may help a little more

Multi-Probs need ur help and Opions

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Woodsman13 on Multi-Probs need ur help and Opions

1993 Buick Century Wgn 3.3
ok at around 50 mph it has a jerky feel and motor sounds rough on take off somtimes. lol and when i say jerky i dont mean slight. sounds ok in park or cruising... usually hits at around 50mph. also hav a "tire hum sound" the tires did wear oddly.
-------------- have done ------------
* new plugs and wires
* correctly gapped and wires rechecked... all plugs are dry and seem to burn ok
*cleaned throttle body
*has recent new front brakes and ball joints
*replaced top "dogbone" motor-mount( was worn and loose)
*all fluids are clean and at correct levels
*not picking up on any vacumn leaks
*replaced fuel filter
*has 2 brand new balanced front tires
* fuel pump was replaced once but about 6 years ago
________________________________________
oh 1 more if it sits for just a short time it has to crank quiet a few times b4 starting.

any ideas and what not would be great thx. If not Im inviting you all over for a buick bon-fire lol

Response From DanD

Have the fuel pump tested for proper pressure and whether the pressure holds for a minimum of 10-15 minutes after the engine has been turned off.
The humming noise could possibly be a wheel bearing beginning to fail?

Dan.

Response From Woodsman13

Hey DanD thanx................. I checked fuel pressure all seems good...... got pointed in the direction of Balancer and sensor. was asked to pull belt off and try it agian... did ... and the prob seemed to dissappear... but now im not where to go with balancer and or sensor Id hat to have to replace both.. I changed the Balancer about 3 yrs ago.. and the guy i spoke with said these motors hav a hard time with a certain brand of balancer and will develop a defect... Know how i can check these at all?????

Response From DanD

Not sure what you mean; you removed the belt and what seemed to disappear?
The jerking; how did you get to 50mph with no belt and not over heat the engine?
The extended cranking during start up or the tire humming noise?
If for whatever reason you suspect the balancer; replace it with an OE and there wont be any doubt on its quality or proper application.
Again not sure where we’re going with this?
The only balancer failures that I’ve seen with these; is the rubber bonding between the two halves of the balancer, would let go and it would cause a knocking noise. I’ve not seen or remember seeing a running issue due to the sensor vains going out of time; they’re riveted to the centre portion of the balancer? I have seen the vains become bent from something hitting them; but that usually destroys the crank sensor and the engine shuts off.

Dan.

Response From Woodsman13

Sorry guess i wasnt to clear.... getting frustrated with it. When its parked and can put it in gear at an operating temp and giving it gas in drive with brake on the motror will seem to miss and shake...... same movement as if driving...... the wheel hum ill deal with. just not sure whats causing this hard jumping around missing.. the motor is almost too quiet to hear while on the road..... anyhow somthing messed up my sensor it had a notch cut in it.. replaced sensor and balancer today.... went for a road test and that hard jerking still appears when under a load..

Response From DanD

You may need to bite the bullet on this one and take the vehicle in and have it diagnosed by a tech?
Someone that has a scanner, not so much too read codes; but to evaluate sensor(s) inputs; as to whether they are inputting “normal” values.
There maybe a sensor that is still within its operating range as to not set a code; but is at its extreme end of its range, causing this issue?

Dan.

Response From speed Top Rated Answer

just wondering does it idle fine? will it sit and idle perfectly normal forever if it could, or is it kinda jumpy?

Buick LeSabre noise when turning right

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From shirlxjohn on Buick LeSabre noise when turning right

Own 1999 Buick LeSabre (w/ ABS) - 76,000 miles -- always had regular maintenance. Started making a loud noise like a fan blade was hitting metal whenever turned right; sound appeared to come from left front wheel. Had noise checked at both Buick dealer and regular mechanic (we have used both). Neither could pinpoint problem. Mechanic unhooked fan and still made same noise -- thought possible that motor mounts (which appeared to need to be replaced) were bad. Had new factory mounts installed -- did not solve problem. The noise sounds exactly like the noise a fan blade would make hitting metal and only happens when we turn left. They have checked wheels, etc. and cannot find source of noise. This does not affect the driving of the vehicle; just driving us nuts every time we turn right. Also, not knowing if it is something that could be dangerous driving. Any suggestions would really be appreciated.

Response From DanD

This may sound right off the wall here but have them pull the starter motor and check whether the starter drive return spring has not broken. This return spring is designed to hold the starter drive gear away from the engine’s flywheel’s ring gear after the engine has been started. When the spring breaks the starter drive can float on the starter armature and bounce off the rotating flywheel making a sound as you described.
The first one that I found drove me crazy looking for it because we could not reproduce it here in the shop. Like you said it would only do it making turns and no there never was any indication of a starter problem. Why only on turns is because the engine is transverse (sitting side ways) and the g-force of the turn forces the drive to slide out.
The second one that I found was on a 99 Jimmy. Customer’s complaint was that the truck was making a loud noise every time he started the thing in his lane way. Of course it was dead silent when I checked it here; so I told the customer if it did it again too call me and I would go to his home to have a listen. The next morning as I’m driving up to his house I can hear his noise; I also noticed that the lane way had a steep slop and the front of the Jimmy was at least 8 inches higher then the rear. Again with this spring broken the starter dive was allowed to slid back and hit the spinning flywheel. Jimmy’s are rear or four wheel drive and the engine sits forwards between the wheels.
Sorry for the long post I didn’t know how else to explain it?
It'll only take them 10 or 15 minutes to pull the starter back and check this. So if I'm wrong you're not into a big expence.
Dan.

Response From steve01832

Good job Dan. It always pays off to have a second "set of eyes" look at something to get a different approach to solving a problem. That holds true in the shop and holds true here as well. Again, good job.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Way to go Dan!! Love to see success. We all read and work hard here for sure to the point I can barely keep up. I don't know how Dan, Steve and Carjunky themselves do it?? Have a great day, T

Response From shirlxjohn

Dan,
Thank you so much for your reply to my question. You were absolutely astounding correct on your diagnosis of it being the starter. Our mechanic had notified us that he had finally solved the problem just before I viewed your reply (he had our car for two days trying to figure out the problem -- he was extremely frustrated that he could not pinpoint it). Our car is now fixed and when we went to pick it up, I showed our mechanic your reply and he was amazed.

Thanks ever so much again for your prompt reply and amazing diagnosis. Is there any way I can address any future auto questions to your attention? If not, I sure hope you monitor this site so I am lucky enough to catch your attention.

Thank you,
Shirl

Response From DanD

Thanks for posting the fix.
As for getting a hold of me; you could send a personal message through the board. But I think your best bet to get your questions answered is to post them to the forums. All of the regulars here are very experienced, knowledgeable people that want to help; just for the sake of helping.
Thanks again and don’t be afraid to reply to a post yourself; one of your experiences may help someone else.
Dan.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

I would start with jacking up the vehicle and turning the steering wheel to see if the noise is there while the vehicle is not moving. Really check out the lower ball joints and upper strut mounts. They both will make noises if they are bound up. Also, check the CV joints for any play. If you have worn CV joints they will make a crackling noise when the wheel is turned. If the CV boots are torn, that is a good indicator that the grease has been lost and foreign debris is getting inside which will render the joint to fail real quickly.

Steve