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Best Selling Genuine Volkswagen Alternators

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Bosch, Valeo
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Volkswagen Replacement Alternator Parts
Bosch
1998 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-38EAB5F    AL0188X  Remanufactured

038903018P , 06A903026A , 030903023J , 028903028D , 038903023A

Qty:
$55.00 $168.89
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • Actual OE part Bosch, only as replacement for Bosch equipment From Chassis # 024256 90 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Va
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Type: 367
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Volkswagen Beetle L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984
Bosch
2005 Volkswagen Passat Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosch

P311-5AB9C45    W0133-1972400  New

Qty:
$75.00 $342.15
  • Remanufactured
  • w/120 Amp Bosch System
  • 90 amp Bosch System
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volkswagen Passat L 4 Cyl 2.0L 120 1967
Valeo
2005 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator 4 Cyl 1.9L Valeo - 120 Amp

P311-53DD786    W0133-1850026  New

Qty:
$555.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • with Valeo System
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volkswagen Beetle L 4 Cyl 1.9L 116 1896
Valeo
2001 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator 4 Cyl 1.9L Valeo - 120 Amp

P311-53DD786    W0133-1850026  New

Qty:
$555.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • 120 Amp w/Valeo or Bosch System
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.9L 116 1896
Valeo
2002 Volkswagen Golf Alternator 6 Cyl 2.8L Valeo - 120 Amp

P311-53DD786    W0133-1850026  New

Qty:
$555.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • 120 Amp w/Valeo or Bosch System
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Volkswagen Golf DOHC V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Valeo
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Valeo - 120 Amp

P311-53DD786    W0133-1850026  New

Qty:
$555.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • with Valeo System - 120 Amp
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2004 - Volkswagen Beetle AWV
Valeo
2004 Volkswagen Golf Alternator 6 Cyl 3.2L Valeo - 120 Amp

P311-53DD786    W0133-1850026  New

Qty:
$555.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • 120 Amp *028 903 237A 3.75mm Spring Ring May Also be Required*
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Volkswagen Golf V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3189
Bosch
2014 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type
2014 - Volkswagen Beetle Turbocharged GAS
Bosch
2014 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2014 - Volkswagen Jetta CPLA
Bosch
2013 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • Bosch System
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2013 - Volkswagen Beetle CPLA
Bosch
2013 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Bosch System
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2013 - Volkswagen Beetle CPLA
Bosch
2016 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • 140 Amp., Reman.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1798
Bosch
2016 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • 140 Amp., Reman.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1798
Bosch
2016 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • Production: -06/28/2015, 140 Amp., Reman.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2016 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984 To:06-28-15
Bosch
2016 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: -06/28/2015, 140 Amp., Reman.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2016 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984 To:06-28-15
Bosch
2014 Volkswagen Jetta Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2014 - Volkswagen Jetta CPLA
Bosch
2015 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • 140 Amp., Reman., Vendor:BOSCH
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2015 - Volkswagen Beetle CPRA
Bosch
2015 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • 140 Amp., Reman., Vendor:BOSCH
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2015 - Volkswagen Beetle CPRA
Bosch
2015 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • Remanufactured
  • Production: -06/28/2015, 140 Amp., Reman., Vendor:BOSCH
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
2015 - Volkswagen Beetle CPPA To:06-28-15
Bosch
2015 Volkswagen Beetle Alternator Bosch

P311-07C0279    W0133-2001377  New

Qty:
$80.00 $604.65
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: -06/28/2015, 140 Amp., Reman., Vendor:BOSCH
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
2015 - Volkswagen Beetle CPPA To:06-28-15

Latest Volkswagen Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1996 Volk.Golf wont unlock!/no power..

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From snowydread on 1996 Volk.Golf wont unlock!/no power..

Hi, I have a Volkswagen Golf 1.8i 1996 Petrol engine and im having problems with the power suppy. I left the light on (doh!) last night and it took a long while for us to jump start it but after I did manage to, the indoor light wasnt working and neither was the central locking? the windows wound down fine, the headlights worked and even the cd player! But now I cant lock/unlock all door via one key and i cant open the fuel cap either because the latch is also controlled by the electronics. And it makes a funny sound as i turn the ignition. Cant anyone help me out? I need the car to get to work tomorrow!! I can start the car now btw but the power is weak.

Cheers,

Jase.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Jump starting a car is something that you should not do these days. It can be very harmfull to both your car and the donor car. With all the sensitive modules on these cars, the sudden power surges can do a lot of damage. Also, the alternator is designed to maintain a battery and not fully recharge one of one from another vehicle. The electronics are too sensitive. At this point you need to get ypour battery charged using a battery charger and resolve those issues. Then test all the fuses with a test light.

Response From snowydread

Thank you, will that involve taking it to a garage or is there anything at home i can use? Also, do you know how i could fill the car with fuel as i can no longer open the fuel hatch and need to do it manually if possible.

Many thanks,
Jase

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what your mechanical ability is but judging by what's happened so far, I suggest taking it to a shop.

Most cars have a manual fuel door release for emergencies.

I think I need a new starter, help!

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From valencia on I think I need a new starter, help!

First of all here is the info


Year of vehicle 1998
Make of vehicle Volkswagen
Model of vehicle Cabrio
Engine size I'm not sure how to figure this out
Mileage/Kilometers 90,000

Okay, I have been away for a week and I just tried to turn on my car and nothing happens. No clicky sound when I turn the ignition, it won't even turn on to just turn on the radio or wipers. I just got the battery replaced a month ago so I don't think it's that. I called my repair shop and asked their opinion, they said it was probably a starter that needed to be replaced and it would be $1,500 plus labor. I looked up the price of a starter for my car online and it's $150 at most! I don't know anything about fixing cars so I would not fix it myself. Would I be able to buy a starter online and bring it to them? I need to know for sure if that's what it is before I buy it, but I go back to school in a week so I need to get this done asap. What would be the best option for me?

Response From Jeff Norfolk

First find a new shop. At $1500 bucks they either don't want to do the work or they are taking advantage of you. If you have no radio or any other accessory than you have a power problem. Either ignition power problem, battery connections or battery. I bet the battery is dead. If you just changed it recently than you may have a power draw when the key is of. I would change or recharge the battery and find a shop that will not take advantage of you. Ask you neighbors and friends who they use. Word of mouth is the best way to find a good repair facility.

Response From valencia

Oh you're right about the battery, I just jumped it and it worked. I left it running a little while and now it can start on its own. What is a power draw, and could it happen again?

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

A power draw is when something is drawing battery power even when the car is off. Something may be staying on when it shouldn't. It usually shows up for the first time when a car has not driven every day because as you know the alternator keeps the battery charged when it is running. So if you have a small draw it may not be noticeable if the car is driven every day. But as soon as you let it sit......you battery needs a defibrillator.

Parasitic Draw? ... or something else

Showing 9 out of 14 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From VWnightmare on Parasitic Draw? ... or something else

I have a 1999 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0L with about 155000 miles. For the past couple of years I have had some battery issues. Early 2012 I was gone for a couple months and left the car to the wife, she doesn't like the car so didn't drive it like i told her to and the battery died so when i returned in May 2012 i had to replace the battery. From then until January 2013 i didn't have too many issues because I was driving it pretty much 5 days a week every week and not letting it sit for more than a week without starting it. Again in January 2013 I have to leave and the wife is in charge of the car. She left the car at home for 2-3 weeks while she was on vacation and returned to a car with a dead battery, couldn't be jumped, took it to autozone and they said it was a bad battery and since it was less than a year they replaced it for free. And now fast forward to December 2013 I let the car sit for about 1.5 weeks while i was on vacation, only to get up to head to work to find that my car battery was completely dead. I was able to get it to start by jumping it but it took a while, I let it run for 30-45 minutes, shut it off tried it again later and it wouldn't start again. Took that battery into autozone they hooked it up to the charger for about an hour then run their test to find it said bad battery again, and again they replaced it for free.

Ok so that's the back story and here is the information I have for today after doing a battery discharge check (disconnecting negative battery cable from battery, connecting multimeter to battery cable and battery post):
Ok so I made sure the key was out of the ignition, all acc. off, doors all closed, no hood light, hooked up my multimeter and the numbers jumped around for a little while. It would peak at about 1.2A, the average was around 250-330mA until finally settling at 40mA. The process took about 30 seconds. I did it multiple times (probably 5-6 and took about the same amount of time each time).

So was thinking that maybe the initial peaking was just computers initiating with power and what not, but 1.2A seemed pretty high even for that.... but then it eventually settled to 40-50mA which is well within normal range for my car being off. But i decided to do a little poking around anyways and removed the 2 fuses for my radio (fuse 37 and 42).

With both fuses removed the check peaked at about 340mA and only took about 5 seconds to settle at 10mA. So then i decided to put in one fuse at a time, starting with fuse 37, ran the check and it stayed the same (taking about 5 seconds and settling at 10mA). So then i remove fuse 37 and put in fuse 42 and run the check. Now we are back to what we were in the beginning taking about 30 seconds to finally settle to a reasonable 40-50mA, but still peaking high over 1A

One last piece of information, I did an open circuit voltage test on my battery. Car off and its sitting at 12.6V (better be its a new battery!). Start the car up, let it run for a couple minutes and do the test again and its sitting at around 14.3V ...so Alternator seems to be working is that correct?

So now my subject line.... Parasitic Draw?...or something else draining my battery?

Response From Discretesignals

HT, I think he gots the idea on how to check for parasitic draws.

According to service information maximum draw is 25mA.

Alternator charging voltage looks good.

You should have your meter connected and monitoring draw for longer than 30 secs. It may take up to an hour for everything to go to sleep. Also if this has a hood switch, make sure it is closed.

Response From Hammer Time

No, I don't think he was doing things correctly and that is why I posted the procedure.
He had all the fuses removed at once.

Response From VWnightmare

So I'm running the check again for a longer period of time.... The first time I did it I had all the fuses in. When i was doing troubleshooting i decided to start with my radio, which is why i took 2 fuses out because they are both to the radio, and then like i said i ran the test some more with only one of them out at a time to narrow it down to a specific fuse. As of right now I can't leave my door open because unlike most cars the VW Jetta doesn't have a plunger for a door switch that I can just depress, it is internal to the handle so Haven't figured out how to do it yet. But as soon as I finish with the test I'm running now Ill repost again with results

Response From Hammer Time

You can't test for draw unless you can close the door switches. You should be able to just close the latch as it would be with the door closed. Every time the door is opened, you activate the timers again.

Response From VWnightmare

Ok, ran the initial check for an hour, door closed, all acc. off.... other than the first ~30 seconds where I'm assuming the initial timers were doing their thing, it stayed at 40-50mA the whole time.

Also looks like I can just mechanically close the switch on the door to make it think it is close.

Response From Hammer Time

That would be normal. Sounds like you have no draw.

Response From VWnightmare

Yea... any ideas as to why I'm going thru so many batteries then?

Response From GC

Do you have any aftermarket equipment in this vehicle? E.G. stereo system, power inverter? What has the outside temp been when this happened? Here in Michigan when it gets single digits and subzero at night, you better have a top notch battery if you plan on letting it sit for more than a couple days.

Response From VWnightmare

As far as I can tell, everything is stock. And the temps haven't been any lower than upper 20's for the past couple months (and that's on the coldest of nights here) I think the week that i let it sit the coldest it got was 32.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Have you tried disconnecting the battery overnight to see if it makes a difference?

Response From VWnightmare

I'll run it again tomorrow morning double checking that everything is off including hood switch and ill let it go for 30-60 minutes and will report back. also my manual says anything under 100mA is good

Response From Discretesignals

100mA may be too much. General rule is less than 50mA, but that isn't set in concrete. Some vehicles may have more and less depending on how their system is designed. Let us know what you find out.

Response From Hammer Time

Here is how you have to approach this.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.