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Graf
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L Graf

P311-53C98C5    W0133-1909054  New

Qty:
$66.35
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • with Water Pump Seal
Brand: Graf
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Volkswagen Beetle L 1984 121
Geba
2002 Volkswagen Passat Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.0L Geba

P311-101C386    W0133-1790649  New

Qty:
$140.34
Geba Engine Water Pump
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Volkswagen Passat W 3998 244
Saleri
2004 Volkswagen Phaeton Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.2L Saleri

P311-0CFF572    W0133-1762859  New

Qty:
$121.06
Saleri Engine Water Pump
Brand: Saleri
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Volkswagen Phaeton V 4172 -
Genuine
2010 Volkswagen GTI Engine Water Pump Genuine

P311-23C728F    W0133-2040496  New

Qty:
$289.65
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/01/2010-
  • Includes Housing & Thermostat - Bolts are one time use. Use Qty (1) Part Number WHT 001 163B, (1) Oil Cooler Connector 06H 121 131C, (2) Water Pipe O-Ring N 907 653 01.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2010 - Volkswagen GTI Fr:11-01-10
Genuine
2011 Volkswagen GTI Engine Water Pump Genuine

P311-23C728F    W0133-2040496  New

Qty:
$289.65
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Housing & Thermostat - Bolts are one time use. Use Qty (1) Part Number WHT 001 163B, (1) Oil Cooler Connector 06H 121 131C, (2) Water Pipe O-Ring N 907 653 01.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2011 - Volkswagen GTI CBFA
Geba
2003 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Geba

P311-422CC90    W0133-1600091  New

Qty:
$94.42
Geba Engine Water Pump
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Volkswagen EuroVan
Geba
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Geba

P311-422CC90    W0133-1600091  New

Qty:
$94.42
Geba Engine Water Pump
  • Chas: 097001-
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2002 - Volkswagen EuroVan 097001 and up
Geba
2013 Volkswagen Touareg Engine Water Pump Geba

P311-33CBE15    W0133-1974572  New

Qty:
$97.32
Geba Engine Water Pump
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2013 - Volkswagen Touareg Turbocharged
Genuine
2007 Volkswagen Touareg Engine Water Pump Genuine

P311-3B32E52    W0133-1909898  New

Qty:
$367.46
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Thermostat Housing
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2007 - Volkswagen Touareg BAR
Graf
1993 Volkswagen Corrado Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-5E9B758    W0133-1734287  New

Qty:
$81.24
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket
  • New
Brand: Graf
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Volkswagen Corrado
Graf
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-5E9B758    W0133-1734287  New

Qty:
$81.24
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • Chas: -097000
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket
  • New
Brand: Graf
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2002 - Volkswagen EuroVan up to 097000
Graf
1992 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-247720B    W0133-1734539  New

Qty:
$88.73
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • Chas: -N014 000
  • Includes Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: Graf
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
1992 - Volkswagen EuroVan up to N014 000
Graf
1993 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-247720B    W0133-1734539  New

Qty:
$88.73
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: Graf
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
1993 - Volkswagen EuroVan DIESEL
Graf
1995 Volkswagen EuroVan Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-247720B    W0133-1734539  New

Qty:
$88.73
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • Eng: -320 127, Production: -12/31/1994
  • with Gasket
Brand: Graf
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Range Fuel Type Prod. Date Range
1995 - Volkswagen EuroVan up to 320 127 DIESEL To:12-31-94
Graf
1985 Volkswagen Transporter Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-4B997CD    W0133-1834952  New

Qty:
$113.55
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • with Gaskets
  • with Gasket
Brand: Graf
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Volkswagen Transporter
Graf
1986 Volkswagen Transporter Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-518E13C    W0133-1834953  New

Qty:
$128.99
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • with Gaskets
  • with Gasket
Brand: Graf
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Volkswagen Transporter
Geba
1998 Volkswagen Passat Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L Geba

P311-1D92313    W0133-1897422  New

Qty:
$56.83
Geba Engine Water Pump
  • Techno Polymer Impeller
  • Pump Only, w/o Housing
  • w/o Housing
Brand: Geba
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1998 - Volkswagen Passat L 1781 -
Geba
1998 Volkswagen Passat Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L Geba

P311-1D92313    W0133-1897422  New

Qty:
$100.43
Geba Engine Water Pump
  • Techno Polymer Impeller
  • Pump Only, w/o Housing
  • with Housing
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1998 - Volkswagen Passat L 1781 -
Geba
2006 Volkswagen Beetle Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.9L Geba

P311-0A9863E    W0133-1977928  New

Qty:
$89.00
Geba Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: Geba
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Volkswagen Beetle L 1896 116
Graf
2006 Volkswagen Beetle Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.9L Graf

P311-08A1F8D    W0133-1977928  New

Qty:
$85.88
Graf Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: Graf
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Volkswagen Beetle L 1896 116

Latest Volkswagen Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

96 Volkswagen Golf overheating

Showing 6 out of 10 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From juniorinky on 96 Volkswagen Golf overheating

bought a used 96 golf. it runs about 230 degrees. I put a new thermostat in an a new water pump. I flushed the heater core and the radiator out. I hope The fans up say they run all the time just to see if this would help. I bought a new temperature sender unit and it still reach 230 degrees. it will sit and idle perfect and it runs great but it just reads a little high especially with the fans running all the time now. I thought maybe it might be a head gasket. it did get a little warm and it ran up to about 235. I'm going to check the compression on it tonight. if I take the cap off the overflow tank it will bubble up over

Response From Sidom

How are you seeing that it's running at 230? If you are going by the gauge in the dash then it would be best to see what the temp the comp temp sensor is reading...These systems will run in the 220 range so 230 isn't that far out....if the dash gauge is slightly skewed that could account for a high reading...

Before you rigged up the cooling fans, were they coming on & going off by themselves?

Have you been having to add any coolant?

These systems need pressure on them to raise the boiling point so running it with the cap off can cause some problems in itself...

Response From juniorinky

That was one of the things I first thought that maybe the guage was off.I installed a new sending unit and the fans did come on and off by themselves.I just temporarily rigged them to see if the temp would go down with them on constant but it doesnt. with the fans running I would think that the temperature would be quite a bit lower than 230. the car runs great and idles great it just stays at 230.I thought maybe it could be a head gasket.

Response From Sidom

It is possible that something is going on, I would have to find the exact specs on a VW but take a GM. The fans will come on around 225 and run until around the 210 mark and then turn off....If there was a problem with that system that kept the temp up, the fans would run constantly..

The fact yours were turning off sounds like comp was seeing normal conditions..

Head gaskets, even in their early stages usually show some other signs than just a high temp.....Some are using small amounts of coolant on a regular basis, running rough for a few minutes on cold start up, the heater intermittently losing heat & blowing cold...

A bad sending unit could definitely cause a bad reading on your gauge but it's not the only thing, theres wires & the gauge itself..

It's not going to hurt anything to check the other stuff but I would really want to look at a datastream and see what the comp is seeing...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oroginal poster: NEVER TAKE A PRESSURE CAP OFF OF COOLING SYSTEM WHEN ITS EVEN A WARM ENGINE - YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW HOW MUCH PRESSURE IS IN THERE OR IS RELIEVING IT WILL CAUSE SUDDEN BOILING IN YOUR FACE AND THEN OFF FOR SKIN GRAFTS! I DON'T CARE IF THE CAR BLOWS UP DON'T DO THAT!

Do you think you really have a problem at all? Already said the dash gauge isn't necessarily that accurate. With electric fan cooled radiators there will be some minor fluctuation in temps - then fan(s) come on and then that's the temp it can do.

Hot wiring it you took a chance at messing things up. They either do or don't come on by themselves and while driving along most will not be needed - some are. If you have A/C and or using defrost many fans just stay on - can't know each design.
If you really want to know actual temps you need an infrared thermometer taken right at thermostat and it should be real close to the thermostat's rating and use only the one temp, proper thermostat the car calls for. Many are going to be 195F but can't speak for all.

Maybe I misread something but you need accurate info before you just go jumping to conclusions. My first point was the point. Pressure will prevent coolant from boiling by near exactly 3 degrees F per lb rating of the pressure cap. Fun facts. That is, a 15lb pressure cap the coolant will not boil until 45 degrees higher than the boiling point at your altitude too which counts. Releasing it when forced in liquid state it will instantly flash boil the danger of which is likely plastered all over the place underhood! Careful first,

T

Response From juniorinky

I am wondering if I do have a problem or maybe paranoid.I just think 230 is too high especially when fans are always on and my thermostat is 195.Coming home last nite it got a lot hotter than 230.I tried to burp the system this morning to expel the air and noticed the lowet rad hose was at best luke warm.All others were real hot.My son is taking the rad out now so I will do a better job flushing it after work.

Response From Sidom

If the passage ways in the radiator get restricted then no amout of flushing will clear those.

When you 1st start losing passages, it's more noticable when the engine is under load.....higher speeds...going up hill...running the a/c...Thats when it needs 100% of the cooling area & if only 80% is there, then it will run hotter..

If you have a infra-red thermometer, you can check all the areas of the radiator for cool spots....If there are areas that are "cold", that would indiate that coolant isn't flowing thru them due to a restricted passage way

Of course if the radiator is doing it's job then the outlet hose will be cooler than the inlet hose....If both hose were the same temp....then that would be a problem...

You said in an earlier post that the fans were coming on & going off by themselves & only stayed on after you rigged them to.......
Has something changed since then?

I can't say for sure is you do or don't have a problem.....The 1st step would be to moniter the coolant via the comp....at idle & cruise....

Using a dash gauge to diag cooling problems can lead you down blind alleys......Been there done that

Response From juniorinky

Fixed my overheating problem and wanted to post to let others know if they have a problem like mine.Replaced the head gasket and solved the overheating issue.Wired the fans back to normal and now we are back to normal.Didnt see anything out of the ordinary but it was pretty nasty but all cleaned up and running great.Thanks for everyones help.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The blown head gasket is not a surprise but something else may have caused that head gasket to blow in the first place. Unless you know what the trigger of the original overheating was you may still have an underlying issue in the cooling system that will need to be addressed to prevent it from happening again.

Response From MarineGrunt

First thing you should do is probably pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.

1996 Volkswagen Golf fan issues

Showing 6 out of 11 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From sparkprincess on 1996 Volkswagen Golf fan issues

Hey guys, I bought myself an awesome little Golf in January and now i am having a few issues with it. It is a 1996 VW Golf 1.8L with 112,000kms on it... I have changed things like the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the ignition coil, the timing belt, and the water pump. Now I am having issues with my car overheating. The fuse keeps blowing on my radiator fan and im not sure if that is a problem with my thermostat or the fan?! It was an issue in winter as well when i sat at idle it would over heat (maybe cause the fan wasnt kicking in?) Does anyone have any insight? Maybe previous experience? The info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

Response From kev2

check fan amp draw -
My colleague discretesignals hopefully will post he is familiar with the VW fan circuits

Response From Discretesignals

With or without air conditioning?

Kev is more than experienced to help you out

Response From sparkprincess

cheers guys, the car has NO air conditioning.

My dad and I had another look at it today and the fan switches on and runs for a few seconds and then the fuse blows.

Response From Discretesignals

More than likely the fan motor is using too many amps because it is worn out or binding. Spin the fan by hand and make sure that it isn't rubbing or binding.

You can measure the amount of amperage the fan motor uses, but you need an inductive clamp with a digital volt meter. The amount of amps going through there would fry a meter fuse if you measured it directly through the meter.

The fan motor is going to use the most amps to get itself moving. As the motor speeds up the amperage goes down or should. Also make sure there are no obstructions in front of the fan or radiator that would hinder its air flow. It is good idea to clean the fins out in the radiator with the old fan out, if you decide to replace the motor.

Response From sparkprincess Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the help! I have to wait til monday to look into the issue a bit more. I think ill try to replace the fan motor. I will keep you posted to how it goes as soon as i change it!

Response From sparkprincess

Ok, so it was the fan! I have a new fan ordered and it should be here Tuesday. I'm going to put in in myself... Is there anything I need to know?

Response From Discretesignals

Not sure if there is anything you need to know. I'm sure if there is something that you need to know, you'll ask.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Couldn't find a 1.8 available for US anyway and no question if A/C or not but not the whole point. If whole assembly comes together shouldn't be a real problem if right unit. If you are just getting a motor if that's possible watch out for reverse threads on it how it holds the fan blades. If new nut not with new motor check threads on new for "left hand" threads.


Not this but if that breaks off doing a motor only it's a problem either for a core deposit or finding another nut if so or saving the old one IF AND ONLY IF THIS SITUATION!


Last is just make sure when it works it spins the correct way - sorry, lousy info for this available,


T

Response From sparkprincess

You guys are awesome! everything went smoothly :) it only took me 30 mins to swap out the fan! It was only the fan assembly and the motor so it went in no problem. Everything is working super smoothly :) thanks heaps for all your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad to hear it, closed as solved,


T