802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Valve Cover Gasket

Choose a Year for your Nissan 's Valve Cover Gasket

  • 2019
  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1967
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Elring
    Elring
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Ishino Stone
    Ishino Stone
  • Mahle
    Mahle
  • Nippon Reinz
    Nippon Reinz
  • Original Equipment
    Original Equipment
  • Victor Gaskets
    Victor Gaskets

Best Selling Genuine Nissan Valve Cover Gaskets

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Ishino Stone, Nippon Reinz
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Nissan Replacement Valve Cover Gasket Parts

We stock Valve Cover Gasket parts for most Nissan models, including 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Xterra.

Ishino Stone
2017 Nissan NV3500 Engine Valve Cover Gasket 8 Cyl 5.6L Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.38
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Nissan NV3500 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552
Ishino Stone
2005 Nissan Armada Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.38
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/2004-
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Armada Fr:10-00-04
Ishino Stone
2004 Nissan Titan Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.38
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/2003-
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Titan Fr:10-00-03
Ishino Stone
2008 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Valve Cover Gasket 8 Cyl 5.6L Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.38
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 04/01/2007-
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2008 - Nissan Pathfinder V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552 Fr:04-01-07
Ishino Stone
2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.38
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/01/2003-09/01/2004
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Pathfinder Armada Fr:08-01-03 To:09-01-04
Nippon Reinz
2005 Nissan 350Z Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Nissan 350Z
Nippon Reinz
2007 Nissan Murano Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Nissan Murano
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Pathfinder Fr:07-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Nissan Altima Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.5L Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/01/2001-, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Altima V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498 Fr:08-01-01
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Altima Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.5L Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -10/2002, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Altima V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498 To:10-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Nissan Maxima Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/2001-, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Maxima Fr:06-00-01
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Maxima Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/2002, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Maxima To:12-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Murano Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/2002-, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Murano Fr:09-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2001-06/30/2002
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Pathfinder Fr:07-01-01 To:06-30-02
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan 350Z Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan 350Z Fr:06-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2006 Nissan 350Z Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/01/2006-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Nissan 350Z Fr:10-01-06
Nippon Reinz
2004 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.25
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/2004, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Pathfinder To:08-00-04
Nippon Reinz
2005 Nissan 350Z Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.57
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Nissan 350Z
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.57
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Pathfinder Fr:07-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Nissan Altima Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.5L Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.57
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/01/2001-, Radiator side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Altima V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498 Fr:08-01-01

Latest Nissan Repair and Valve Cover Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Nissan Pathfinder 2003 LE Oil Leak

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From TedHospes on Nissan Pathfinder 2003 LE Oil Leak

I drive a Nissan Pathfinder 2003 LE 3.5 Liter v6. I noticed quite a while back that I had developed what looks like (in my inexperienced opinion) to be a very serious oil leak. Now I am unsure of anything do to the lack of Auto-mechanical experience and knowledge, but it doesn't seem to be much of a question in my mind whether it's an oil leak or not. The truth of the matter is though, that I am unsure and would like to have some insurance of what the issue is, where the oil leak is or rather what part that is covered in oil (my presumption is that it's the oil pan), and the cost of repair/labor. I attempted to take the best quality pictures with the best angles I was capable of reaching for these images to help the issue be diagnosed, images are shown below:












Thank you for your time!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Holy crap sport
those pics gotta go
too big to know what
we are looking at.
________
Best I could figure is I saw what looked like a
oil drain plug. Check engine oil
bet it's low.
If so or not see if that wet hex bolt with gasket (looks like it)
is loose first carefully tighten, wipe dry and see if anything
comes right back there.
If you just had oil service done and this just happened,
call the place and mention this. If low oil especially
tow it and quit running it. Fix may be easy or very
involved if that's what happened?
T

Response From TedHospes

Thanks for the feedback! Sorry about the oversized images, they were taken off of my phone and I have no idea when or how they managed to get so enlarged. Would it maybe help you diagnose is I gave simply links to them?




Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's better. I'm no good with pics at this site and can't mess with yours. So - that works - 1st and last pic show well now and NOT the drain plug but rather now think it's between transmission bell housing and engine which is engine oil in appearance.
#1`Make sure engine oil is properly filled + don't rely on a low oil warning rather check it manually as it may not work or be the leak!
It's more likely the leak is from the rear main seal which isn't good news in my book. Hard to be sure. You could waste a roll of paper towels and brake cleaner would/should remove existing oil. I can't suggest pressure washing for anything for cleaning around an engine.
See if you can then target where it comes back before it makes a real mess again.
That or let a tech check it.
OK - Problem with me if a rear main is declared at fault is most do put a drop out now and then normally which also lubes them. Not always enough to put one on a garage floor but truck is 13+ years old and could leak more but not a problem to a point. My take is the bearings of the crankshaft allow shaft too much motion and has beat back the seal so just a seal may not work and is really a patch IMO at best.
Again IMO crankshaft has DNA with the engine. If its bearings are in fact worn it's wildly difficult to machine it so precisely with proper new bearings to be a lasting fix or instant disaster. Lots of work just to get one out to send out as that's machine shop work.
There may be (I hear this now and then) a seal if this is that seal that can be installed more easily and by design make up for some slop in crank bearings and buy some decent time?
Another clue that such important engine bearings are in trouble is oil pressure from a cold start doesn't instantly spike way up or vehicles with just low pressure lights stay on too long after engine starts and should be out right away.
What do you want to do? Have another look at it or do the first step is clean and locate it? It's always possible that the oil is coming down from something else altogether but any which way running too low on oil or out is fatal to engine right away if not seriously harmful.
So far the guess is rear main is the likely source but can't know that quite yet pics or not,


T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Is it dry around the valve cover gaskets?

1999 Nissan Frontier clutch pedal stays on floor

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From alinva on 1999 Nissan Frontier clutch pedal stays on floor

1999 Nissan Frontier 4X4 3.3 v6. 190,000 miles
I recently had valve cover gaskets replaced and shortly thereafter, the clutch
stayed on the floor when depressed. Suspect it needs to be bled; any ideas on best way to do the bleeding.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It's not just bleeding. You have a bad master or slave most likely. Just make sure it didn't break a fork or pressure plate.

Response From alinva

Thanks for the comments and advice. I had thought that perhaps in replacing the valve cover gaskets, the clutch hydraulics may have been compromised.

But you are most likely right. I had the master and slave replaced at 116000 miles
and this failure may be usual wear and tear

Nissan Pathfinder Odd Oil Leak

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From runrebelsrun on Nissan Pathfinder Odd Oil Leak

I have a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder with an oil leak. The oil leak has gotten pretty bad, and I was convinced that it was either a cam or crank seal that needed replacing, since it was coming from the front of the the engine. I removed the belts and front cover, exposing the timing belt. Unfortunately, its dry as a whistle in there--so obviously it wasn't the front seal as I first thought. The oil leak is coming from a very strange place. Its dripping near where the water pump meets the block. Its not the oil cooler seal or an issue with the oil pan either--the leak is coming from higher than that. Any ideas what it could be? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! :)

Response From Discretesignals

Those things are fairly notorious for leaking from the valve cover gaskets.

Response From runrebelsrun

If it was a valve cover gasket, do you think it would be causing the leak so far down near the water pump though?

Response From Hammer Time

Oil runs down hill.

Response From runrebelsrun Top Rated Answer

If it isn't a valve cover gasket.. what else could it be? I have a feeling it is unlikely to be a valve cover gasket because the source of the leak is in the area near the water pump. Its not like its leaking from above and running down to that area--unless its happening internally that I cant see it. Externally its coming out from the water pump area.

Response From Discretesignals

The oil pump is right below the water pump. It could be leaking out of the oil pump cover. Have you cleaned it all off and ran the engine with the timing covers removed to see if you can see exactly where the leak is coming from or out of?

1991 Nissan Sentra Excessive Oil Burning

Showing 7 out of 17 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From BurninOil on 1991 Nissan Sentra Excessive Oil Burning

Hi all. I recently have been having trouble with my old Sentra. Here are the details.

Recently the crank seal and valve cover gasket started leaking. I replaced both.

Next time I drive it, the car is smoking (blue) and stumbling when shifting. Just as you let off the clutch and accelerate. It also pings about half the time just as it belches out a large cloud of smoke.

I've replaced the PCV valve and found the 2 vent hoses coming off the valve cover soaked in oil. Prior to changing the valve cover gasket these hoses were dry.

The car burns 1 quart in about 150 miles. Highway speeds no smoke is visible. From a stop, up through the gears it smokes (cloud larger than the car).

Prior to the crank seal and valve cover gasket, the car burned NO oil. Not a drop in the 227k miles before this. The car also just passed CA smog with no problems less than 1 month ago.

Any ideas? I replaced the seals around each sparkplug tube and the PCV valve. I tried 2 valves, one aftermarket, one from Nissan. The 2 vent hoses from the valve cover were reinstalled properly.

On the inside top of the valve cover is a baffle that separates the PCV vent and breather tubes from the valve train. This baffle is sealed around 3 of the 4 edges and takes up about 2/3rds of the area inside the cover. At one end there is a slight edge where I assume it lets the area "breath" through the PCV and other vent hose to the intake. Is there something above this baffle that could have dislodged and is no longer keeping the intake from drawing oil off the valve train? The baffle is riveted in place so there is no easy way to remove it.

This is the second crank seal I've put in it (original lasting 170k) and the first time the valve cover has been removed.

Any tips would be appreciated!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

It sounds like you've got a broken piston ring or piston. When this happens, it over pressurizes the crankcase, which would explain your oil leaks. It will leak wherever is the least path of resistance. If you remove the oil fill cap with the engine running, you'll probably notice pressure, rather than PCV suction. Hopefully, I'm wrong, but doesn't sound good.

Response From BurninOil Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was thinking as well. I forgot to mention but I also did a compression check and all 4 cylinders are between 180 and 182. I don't suspect it to be a ring since the compression is still normal. When the car is no stumbling and smoking (mid-range and higher), it runs perfect. Same performance as before.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check your compression tester - that's unrealistic for a 227k engine that smokes like that - unless perhaps the cylinders are full of oil.

What do the plugs look like? Is PCV overcoming normal blowby?

Try pressure on cyl when at TDC and see where it blows out of,

T

Response From BurninOil

I used 3 different compression testers, all were the kind that thread into the spark plug (1 I own, 2 I rented), not the kind with the rubber tip you hold down. I've used the one I own on other vehicles that I know have bad rings and it shows a realistic number (70s for my old van on 2 of the cylinders). That vehicle pumps oil out the dipstick under load. I don't think it's the tool.

The plug tips are white/grey and clean, no oil. There is oil around the threads of the plugs up to the sealing washers but not a lot. The PCV valve has oil in it and so does both the vent lines off the valve cover. If it broken a ring, wouldn't it run badly all the time and make a lot of noise? The car idles smooth and starts right up. Running normally when it isn't puffing smoke. When it puffs, that's when it runs badly, but only for a few seconds and then it's back to normal. It's not smoking from every stop sign. Mainly if I drive highway speeds and then idle at a light. When I pull away, smoke. If it's a worn out ring, wouldn't it have been using oil prior to this? I've owned the car since new. Just seems odd it would break a ring coincidentally the only time I've pulled the valve cover off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: It manages to "burn" enough oil to see it as said and consume it. Now I'm thinking of what connection taking a valve cover off would have and what I'm thinking is it isn't sealed well enough (guess) such that PCV system can't produce a slight vacuum to overcome normal blowby which is loaded with oil and the crankcase vapors are drawn back in thru the PCV which also should separate liquid oil from just the foggy vapor and isn't!

All kinds of things seal the crankcase and one is the valve cover. Off the top of my head - Oil fill cap, dipstick, front and rear seals, head gasket and perhaps intake gasket and certain hoses have check valved like the one to a common vac assist brake booster.

If pressure is allowed in crancase, oily vapor will invade, harm some hoses and blow out the weakest links first and likely make more weak links. Gotta make sure PCV system is doing its job.

Agreed - the compression test doesn't show a broken ring and seems like plugs aren't giving up any evidence.

Since this started with the valve cover change I'd go back and see if something isn't right with that. The area also must drain back to oil pan and if that fills with oil that can't return for some reason it can suck right down valve guides but you aren't seeing fouled plugs so I'm good and confused.

Never witnessed by me but I think problems with rings can happen such that they might test out fine and still be the issue??

T

Response From BurninOil

Thanks Tom. I'll pull the cover off and see if I can find the oil returns and make sure the cover is sealing.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I agree with Tom on the compression test. However, if the cylinders are getting a lot of oil in them, the oil will really seal up that cylinder, but all of them? The odds are......can't find an infiniti symbol on my keyboard. How did the blow-by feel by hand? It's possible to lose a valve guide and suck oil, but all four cyls? Where's that symbol?
The cylinder head is pretty well open; Unless you've been using Pennzoil or Quaker State, I doubt that the oil return holes are so plugged that the oil would be forced by the valve guide seals. Gasket debris plugging the holes? Possible. Vacuum hose to the PCV connected to manifold vacuum? Sufficient vacuum? I've seen the passageways plugged. Hose from valve cover to PCV unrestricted, not kinked? So many questions. LOL.

Response From BurninOil

Car has always had Quaker State. There is no residue or build up in the valve train area. No carbon deposits I can see. There isn't any gasket debris as the valve cover uses a large o-ring type of gasket and not a paper one. It fits in a groove on the cover itself. The PCV mounts directly on the cover so no vacuum leak in a hose to it. The hose leaving the PCV is a formed hose with a 90 bend (which I replaced due to it being solid feeling from years of heat). None of the hoses are kinked or restricted. When I turned the motor over while changing the front seal it felt like it had good compression.

Still scratching my head on this one. It's been this way for almost 2 months now.

Response From aartig

Yeah ...you are very true. I agree with you. Even I tried and found the same.

(link removed by moderator)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Loren - you have to turn your keyboard sideways and hit the #8 key !!



There you go,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Oh, great! NOW you tell me!

Response From BurninOil

What about the metal plate that blocks the inside of the valve cover off? Is there something above this? Both of the 2 vents from the intake connect above this plate. One vent has the PCV in it. The hose from the PCV connects to the intake manifold itself. The second vent tube connects to the rubber boot from the airbox, with no valve, it's just an open hose. How is this hose not sucking oil all the time without a PCV in it? There must be something above that metal plate.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Generally speaking the spot a PCV picks up vapor has baffles or a crooked path, or a steel wooly mesh to run thru in an attempt to separate oil droplets before PCV itself get a breath of the vapors to conserve on oil loss/burning. Some concepts are like the mesh over a stove that isn't or is vented for a grease collector in your kitchen type idea.

Perhaps in the recent work something was left out, broke, bent or something causing more oil droplets to get drawn in. Doesn't take many droplets to add up to real oil consumption - followed by clogging hose, ports, fouled plugs from excessive oil burning,

T

Response From BurninOil

Nothing was left out during the work I did. Nothing broke, bent, pinched that I can find. The 2 hoses are very short, less than 6" and about impossible to hook up wrong. I may have to drill out the plate under the top of the cover to see if there is some kind of steel wool or other filtering device in there. I don't think I could have damaged it. I literally lifted off the cover, pulled the old o-ring (cover gasket) out of the groove it fits in, wiped off the sealing surface with a clean rag, put in the new o-ring and put the cover back on. The new o-ring isn't leaking. Since that first time I had the cover off, I pulled it off 3 or 4 more times looking for anything that might be causing this. So far nothing. Replaced the seals around the spark plug tunnels the 2nd time I removed the valve cover.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To refresh this now long thread:

Oil "smoke" trouble began directly after replacing a crank seal AND the valve cover gasket on a 91 Nissan with some 227,000 miles.

Test show little so far as to why the sudden change but a problem was there to need those seals to begin with in a VERY high mile engine.

Oil burning and seen as smoke somehow isn't fouling plugs and evidence of severe blow by for any reason not conclusive to me at least.

Oil can be burned by excessive blow by, PCV issues or perhaps head gasket issues that were coincidental?? Oil separating at PCV shouldn't have changed with the work recently done. Not sure how that is accomplished in this exact engine. May not be a steel wool type deal but a series of baffles?? Simply dunno.

Rather than drilling thru cover for a view I might try clear hose temporarily to see what's going on thru the hose to PCV. Most clear hose wouldn't last so just a test.

It's not following a clear path of any commonly known issue that I'm familiar with so don't know what else to suggest. Perhaps a second set of eyes and hands on this would be a prudent choice?

Side note to be taken for face value: When an engine needs a rear main seal it usually means there is wear out of norms in crank bearings marking the beginning of the end of the useful life of an engine. Not encouraging but that's been my experience,

T

Response From BurninOil

I appreciate the help and tips. It was the front main seal, which was also replaced at 170k miles. Second one lasted until 227k. I agree, I need to have some more eyes look at it and see. Obviously something is wrong that I'm just not seeing. PCV is oil saturated and so are both vent hoses which seem to indicate there is a pressure problem in the crankcase.

Thanks again for the tips!