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I seem to be having a problem getting the transmission & TC fitted onto the drive plate (flywheel). Everything bolts on fine, but once I torque the initial two lower transmission mounting bolts the BLACK METAL GASKET (between the drive plate and engine) seems to butt right up against the drive plate. So, when I go to turn the crankshaft the engine is locked up and I cannot even get the rest of the torque converter bolts on.

Yes, I double and triple checked that the torque converter is properly seated.
Yes, I torqued the transmission bolts precisely to specs. (47 ft lbs.)
Yes, I took off the whole transmission and TC and inspected the drive plate. When the transmission is off there is some clearance between the drive plate and the BLACK METAL GASKET, however the distance is not exact all the way around, nevertheless, there is some clearance.
Yes, the old transmission bolted on and the crankshaft turned fine (else I wouldnâ€™t be able to get the TC bolts off).
Yes, when I loosen the transmission bolts and back the transmission back a little the crankshaft will turn, but then thereâ€™s a minute space left between the transmission and the engine!

Here are the specs on the vehicle: 1997 Toyota Corolla 1.6L base model, 3 speed automatic transmission (4AFE). Looks like the transmission I am installing has been recently rebuilt, itâ€™s very clean and still has stickers.

Any help would be much appreciated, John A.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Is that an A131L transaxle?

They have the AISIN and the Toyota Version of that transaxle. There should be a serial tag. If it is on the edge of the bellhousing, it's AISIN. If it is on the case it's Toyota. What are the digits on the tag?

Response From johnny916

I do remember seeing digits on the endge of the bell housing, is it the wrong transmission? Should I send it back to the wrecker who sold it to me??

I'll look tomorrow, I'm not at my shop right now.

Response From Discretesignals

Well, they also had an A132L transmission that was bolted to the 3e-e engine that looks identical to the A131L. I honestly don't know the physical difference between the two and if there were changes between the years, but they did have different torque converter stall speeds.

You may also be able to measure the distance from the front of the converter to the edge of the bellhousing using a straight edge and tape measure to compare it to the transaxle you pulled out.

Response From johnny916

I did that measurement and it was in specs according to alldata, but didn't compre to the old one.

Response From johnny916

UPDATE: Just removed the torque converter and compared it to the old one.. They are IDENTIICAL..

Could I have a wrong transmission!??

Maybe they sent me a 4sp instead of a 3sp?

Response From Sidom

To be honest my 1st thought when I read this thread was you didn't have the converter seated properly. You said you've double & triple checked so we'll have to go with that.

DS has pretty much covered all the bases so it's down to the wrong tranny or the converter isn't seated properly. Do you still have the old tranny there? If you do, do as DS said & compare the 2, measure the distance of the seated converter to the bellhousing.
There really isn't any converters around like the old Chrys, those ones you had to set the tranny on it's tailshaft to seat the converter due to the floating gears in the converter so that shouldn't be an issue. If everything else checks out, just for the hellva it, try that, even tho you shouldn't have to do that.....

My database is down but maybe someone else could confirm this but I believe between the 2 different trannys, one has the serial # sideways right on the edge of the bellhousing & the other one is back on the right upper side of the case...That would be another way to tell if you have a different one...

I'm sure you've done these before & know there has to be that "gap" between the converter & flex plate before you bolt it up with everything seated & tight...

Response From johnny916

The new one that I got does have numbers on the edge of the bell housing while my old transmission does NOT.

Here are the numbers on the new transmission I got from a wrecker: EW39302 B and what's weird is they are somehow etched in someone's handing writing..

As for my old transmission, the damn thing is so dirty I can't read the numbers without cleaning it off, but does this mean I might have a 4speed instead of a 3speed 4FE?

Response From Sidom

Hopefully this will help you ID what you have

Toyota also produces a A131L but the serial # is in the same place as the A132L.

DS has a pretty good handle on this so I'll try not to derail the thread
If the serial # matches I have just a couple of quick questions.
Have you done much tranny work? How did you seat the converter? What happened while you were seating it?

Response From johnny916

Sorry guys, it turned out the TC wasn't lodge into the transmission fully. I bolted it down, but now here's another nuiscance.. The torque converter bolts seem to stick out too far because I tried to put that plastic hole plug back in and when I rotated the engine I can see the TC bolts hitting the plastic and moving it towards me.

Response From Sidom

Man either DS is psychic or has killer eyesight but I agree I haven't seen lock washers on converter bolts & that would make them stick too far out....

Is that shield bent there at the top on left???? On the leftside it sure looks like it's real close to the flexplate, that would account for cover being hit but nothing else. If it is, just get a couple of pry bars & bend it back in place....

Response From johnny916

I think it is bent towards the engine, somehow else pointed out this from lack of having the torque converter on properly.

Response From Sidom

It's hard to see in the picture it just looks like it's close to the flexplate on that one side but the converter not seated could've of bent it. The flexplate is between the converter & the plate & it's bolted to the crank so for that to have happened, it would've destroyed the flexplate.....

Did you find out why it was hitting??? As DS mentioned there shouldn't be any lock washer on those converter bolts...

Response From johnny916

When I installed the transmission the first time apparently I broke the pump and bent the drive plate by not having the TC installed properly AND forcing the transmission in.

Response From Sidom

"Ouch"....That sucks.... I've been there before, not a fun place to be........

Sounds like you got a handle on the problem, so that's cool..

Thx 4 taking the time to come back here and let us know what the final solutions was.....

I'm guessing you can make real good time on R&Ring a Toyota tranny now....

Response From Discretesignals

You sure those are the bolts for the converter? I don't remember converter bolts having lock washers on them.

Response From Mr.scotty

It looks like the wrong tranny to me, but thats just me.

'97 Toyota RAV4 headlights go out when turning (mainly or only left)

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Question From 97ioat on '97 Toyota RAV4 headlights go out when turning (mainly or only left)

Year of vehicle: 1997
Make: Toyota
Model: RAV4
Engine size: 2.0 liter

Tell me if it's possible for me to fix this without special tools or if it's only a task for a Toyota mechanic or even for a non-Toyota mechanic due to the complexity or need for special tools.

At night, when I turn left, I push the turn signal-headlight control arm down so the left signal lights blink. At times, not always, this makes the headlights go out. I found that if I just slightly turn the plastic end piece of the headlight-turn signal arm, the headlights go back on. A non-Toyota mechanic told me that some brass contacts in a switch under the plastic of that arm are wearing out and soon I'll have much trouble getting the headlights back on.

Is the repair of this too complicated for me to do? Are special tools required? One Toyota dealer in my city wants over $400 to fix this. The other Toyota dealer in town wants over $200 to fix.

Tell me what you think or know about this.

Thanks

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

http://econtent.autozone.com:24999/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SW2795/image/6/Price: $80.99Sounds like the combination switch. Mitchell labor guide shows .8 hrs. to replace.

Response From 97ioat Top Rated Answer

Thanks Loren for the info!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

It's just an educated guess. Hope it works out for you.

2006 toyota corolla headlights

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Question From trailerglide on 2006 toyota corolla headlights

can anyone tell me how to ajust the headlights on a 2006 toyota corolla ? one light is higher then the other.

Response From DrElectrics

When you are doing this, drive your car upto a wall with your lights on, so you can see where they need to be adjusted to.

Response From Double J

OH MAN...here you go...remember you asked....lol....at the very end ,you'll see where the adjuster is.....
maybe just give it a turn ..see what happens......unless you got time on your hands...lol..

ADJUSTMENT

VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIM ADJUSTMENT

Prepare the vehicle:

Ensure there is no damage or deformation to the body around the headlamps.

Fill the fuel tank.

Make sure that the oil is filled to the specified level.

Make sure that the coolant is filled to the specified level.

Inflate the tires to the appropriate pressure.

Place the spare tire, tools, and jack in their original position.

Unload the trunk.

Sit a person of average weight (68 kg, 150 lb ) in the driver's seat.

PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a tester)

Prepare the vehicle for headlamp aim check.
Adjust in accordance with headlamp tester instructions.

PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a screen)

Prepare the vehicle according to the following conditions:

Place the vehicle in a location that is dark enough to clearly observe the cutoff line. The cutoff line is a distinct line, below which light from the headlamps can be observed and above which it cannot.

Place the vehicle at a 90Â° angle to the wall.

Create a 7.62 m (25 ft) distance between the vehicle and the wall.

Place the vehicle on a level surface.

Bounce the vehicle up and down to settle the suspension.

NOTE: A distance of 7.62 m (25 ft) between the vehicle and the wall is necessary for proper aim adjustment. If unavailable, secure a distance of exactly 3 m (9.84 ft) for check and adjustment. (The target zone will change with the distance so follow the instructions in the illustration.)

Prepare a piece of thick white paper (approximately 2 m (6.6 ft) (height) x 4 m (13.1 ft) (width)) to use as a screen.
Draw a vertical line down the center of screen V line).

Set the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:

Stand the screen perpendicular to the ground.

Align the V line on the screen with the center of the vehicle.

Draw base lines (H line, V LH, V RH lines) on the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:

The base lines differ for"low-beam inspection" and "high-beam inspection"

Follow the same procedures for "high-beam inspection"

Mark the headlamp bulb center marks on the screen. If the center mark cannot be observed on the headlamp, use the center of the headlamp bulb or the manufacturer's name marked on the headlamp as the center mark.

H Line (Headlamp height): Draw a horizontal line across the screen so that it passes through the center marks. The H line should be at the same height as the headlamp bulb center marks of the low-beam headlamps.
V LH Line, V RH Line (Center mark position of left-hand (LH) and right-hand (RH) headlamps): Draw two vertical lines so that they intersect the H line at each center mark (aligned with the center of the low-beam headlamp bulbs).

HEADLAMP AIMING INSPECTION

Cover or disconnect the connector of the headlamp on the opposite side to prevent light from the headlamp not being inspected from affecting headlamp aiming inspection. NOTE: Do not keep the headlamp covered for more than 3 minutes . The headlamp lens is made of synthetic resin, and may easily melt or be damaged due to heat. HINT: When checking the aim of the high-beam, cover the low-beam or disconnect the connector.
Start the engine. NOTE: Engine rpm must be 1,500 or more.

Turn on the headlamp and make sure that the cutoff line falls within the specified area, as shown in the illustration. HINT:

Since the low-beam light and the high-beam light are a unit, if the aim on one is correct, the other should also be correct. However, check both beams just to make sure.

Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).

Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).

Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).

Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).

Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.

Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.

HEADLAMP AIMING ADJUSTMENT

Adjust the aim vertically: Adjust the headlamp aim into the specified range by turning aiming screw with a screwdriver. NOTE: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. If the screw is tightened excessively, loosen it and then retighten it, so that the final turn of the screw is in the clockwise direction. HINT:

Perform low-beam aim adjustment.

The headlamp aim moves up when turning the aiming screw clockwise, and moves down when turning the aiming screw counterclockwise.

Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

That was incredible.. VERY VERY informative.

Response From Double J

Isn't that something.....geez....

Thats why I said ...just give the adjuster a turn ...see what happens....lol...
I'm with you....shine 'em against a wall and start adjusting until your happy...lol

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just general - not specific to this car - - - Look for some screw device on the top and outer part of where the lense mounts. Top tightens or losens for height and the side towards fender is for left and right. Count your turns so you can at least put it back as a reference point. There could even be a turn knob for this on some cars,

T

toyota corolla

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Question From febausa on toyota corolla

Toyota Corolla 1994, the engine was turned off suddenlly after 30 minutes but the engine turned on again when it is cooled

Response From Sidom

Is this a question or a statement?

Response From febausa Top Rated Answer

This is statement. How fix this problem?

Response From Sidom

Any engine requires 3 things to run. Air/fuel, fire & compression, all at the right time. You need to find out which on you are losing and then check out that system

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