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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
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  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • INA
    INA
  • Mahle
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Best Selling Genuine Cadillac Timing Chains

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Cloyes, INA, ACDelco, Genuine, Mahle
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Cadillac Replacement Timing Chain Parts
Cloyes
1992 Cadillac Brougham Engine Timing Chain 8 Cyl 5.7L Cloyes - Replacement Street Performance Chain

P311-50A08A8    9-145  New

20145

Qty:
$16.23
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Rollers: Double Link Quantity: 58
  • Replacement Street Performance Chain
  • Product Attributes:
    • Chain Pitch: 1/4 In.
    • Link Quantity: 58.0
    • Timing Mark Quantity: 0.0
  • Street Performance 3/8" Pitch Double Roller Replacement True Roller Chain. Seamless 0.250" Roller Diameter. Heat Treated and Processed Links to Maximize Breaking Strength while Remaining Ductile for Toughness. Prestressed to Increase Fatigue Life. USA Made.
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Cadillac Brougham V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Cloyes
1984 Cadillac Cimarron Engine Timing Chain - Center 4 Cyl 2.0L Cloyes

P311-05E329B    C370  New

9370 , 24577247

Qty:
$28.65
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 58 Overall Length: 11"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Chain Pitch: 3/8 In.
    • Chain Row Quantity: 1.0
    • Link Quantity: 58.0
    • Overall Length: 11"
    • Plates: 11.0
    • Timing Mark Quantity: 0.0
    • Width: 0.73"
  • A timing chain synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft(s) ensuring proper timing and allows the engine’s valves to open and close during each cylinder’s firing. Cloyes Timing Chains, which are available in kits or as a stand-alone product, are pre-stressed and heat-treated for increased durability. Our chains are engineered and manufactured with precision pitch control for proper chain-to-sprocket tooth fitment. From stock replacement to high performance, Cloyes has the most complete timing chain catalog. Cloyes parts are CAD designed and manufactured using advanced materials. Each part is extensively tested for function and durability to ensure optimal performance. Cloyes recommends the chain tensioner(s), sprocket(s), and guide(s) also be replaced when the chain is replaced as these components play a vital role in supporting the chain and keeping it tight. Refer to our online catalog for detailed application-specific information.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Cadillac Cimarron Center L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Cloyes
1988 Cadillac Cimarron Engine Timing Chain - Center 6 Cyl 2.8L Cloyes

P311-5CF3F74    C385  New

9385 , 53020444 , 10166352

Qty:
$24.24
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 64 Overall Length: 12"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Chain Pitch: 3/8 In.
    • Chain Row Quantity: 1.0
    • Link Quantity: 64.0
    • Overall Length: 12"
    • Plates: 9.0
    • Timing Mark Quantity: 1.0
    • Width: 0.61"
  • A timing chain synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft(s) ensuring proper timing and allows the engine’s valves to open and close during each cylinder’s firing. Cloyes Timing Chains, which are available in kits or as a stand-alone product, are pre-stressed and heat-treated for increased durability. Our chains are engineered and manufactured with precision pitch control for proper chain-to-sprocket tooth fitment. From stock replacement to high performance, Cloyes has the most complete timing chain catalog. Cloyes parts are CAD designed and manufactured using advanced materials. Each part is extensively tested for function and durability to ensure optimal performance. Cloyes recommends the chain tensioner(s), sprocket(s), and guide(s) also be replaced when the chain is replaced as these components play a vital role in supporting the chain and keeping it tight. Refer to our online catalog for detailed application-specific information.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Cadillac Cimarron Center V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Cloyes
2000 Cadillac Escalade Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.7L Cloyes

P311-508A671    C499  New

9499 , 14087014

Qty:
$15.66
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 46 Overall Length: 11 3/8"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Chain Pitch: 1/2 In.
    • Chain Row Quantity: 1.0
    • Link Quantity: 46.0
    • Overall Length: 11 3/8"
    • Plates: 9.0
    • Timing Mark Quantity: 0.0
    • Width: 0.62"
  • A timing chain synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft(s) ensuring proper timing and allows the engine’s valves to open and close during each cylinder’s firing. Cloyes Timing Chains, which are available in kits or as a stand-alone product, are pre-stressed and heat-treated for increased durability. Our chains are engineered and manufactured with precision pitch control for proper chain-to-sprocket tooth fitment. From stock replacement to high performance, Cloyes has the most complete timing chain catalog. Cloyes parts are CAD designed and manufactured using advanced materials. Each part is extensively tested for function and durability to ensure optimal performance. Cloyes recommends the chain tensioner(s), sprocket(s), and guide(s) also be replaced when the chain is replaced as these components play a vital role in supporting the chain and keeping it tight. Refer to our online catalog for detailed application-specific information.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Cadillac Escalade Center V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Cloyes
1999 Cadillac DeVille Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-596C7AA    W0133-1685635  New

Qty:
$108.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Camshaft - Primary Drive
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1999 - Cadillac DeVille d'Elegance
Cloyes
2002 Cadillac Eldorado Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-596C7AA    W0133-1685635  New

Qty:
$108.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Intermediate - Primary Drive
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Cadillac Eldorado
Cloyes
2007 Cadillac STS Engine Timing Chain 8 Cyl 4.4L Cloyes

P311-596C7AA    W0133-1685635  New

Qty:
$108.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Crankshaft to Idler
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Cadillac STS V 8 Cyl 4.4L 267 4371
Cloyes
2008 Cadillac XLR Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-596C7AA    W0133-1685635  New

Qty:
$108.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Crank To Auxiliary
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Cadillac XLR
INA
2005 Cadillac CTS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 3.6L INA

P311-4D2ADA2    W0133-1866083  New

Qty:
$56.22
INA Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Idlers to Camshafts
Brand: INA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
ACDelco
2006 Cadillac CTS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 2.8L ACDelco

P311-412810E    W0133-1866083  New

Qty:
$59.75
ACDelco Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Idlers to Camshafts
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 2.8L 170 2792
Genuine
2005 Cadillac CTS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 3.6L Genuine

P311-2ED98E5    W0133-1866083  New

Qty:
$56.08
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Idlers to Camshafts
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
INA
2005 Cadillac CTS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 2.8L INA

P311-25BF618    W0133-1866241  New

Qty:
$53.93
INA Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Crankshaft to Idlers
Brand: INA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 2.8L 170 2792
Cloyes
2014 Cadillac ATS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 3.6L Cloyes

P311-49259DC    W0133-3528640  New

Qty:
$58.83
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Crankshaft to Idlers
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Cadillac ATS V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Cloyes
2014 Cadillac CTS Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 3.0L Cloyes

P311-49259DC    W0133-3528640  New

Qty:
$58.83
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • ; Crankshaft to Idlers
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
Cloyes
2009 Cadillac Escalade Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-04C7369    W0133-2014528  New

Qty:
$41.72
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Cadillac Escalade
Cloyes
1993 Cadillac Commercial Chassis Engine Timing Chain 8 Cyl 5.7L Cloyes

P311-53BCA21    W0133-1684611  New

Qty:
$26.13
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Cadillac Commercial Chassis V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Cloyes
1986 Cadillac Cimarron Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Cloyes

P311-475DAD1    W0133-1682743  New

Qty:
$48.69
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Cadillac Cimarron L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Mahle
1986 Cadillac Cimarron Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Mahle

P311-0E07571    W0133-1682743  New

Qty:
$55.86
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Cadillac Cimarron L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -

Latest Cadillac Repair and Timing Chain Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no power when car is running

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From caddyheaven on no power when car is running

i have a 1981 cadillac superior hearse with the cadillac 368 ci. motor. My problem is that it will start and run but it has no power, takes forever to get up to 55 mph, there is a strong smell of gasoline like the motor is flooding, and keeps stalling out at low rpms. I have changed the plugs and wires, set the timing to factory specs but that didnt help. it has an electronic carb with no adjustment screws like the older rochester carbs. any help will be appreciated

Response From Double J

First thing that came to mind is ..try advancing the distributor and see if it gets more power...
Maybe we have a timing chain/gear issue.
Also check the pickup coil wiring inside the distributor..fray and cause driveability issue.
Catalytic converter restricted?
Strong smell of fuel?...have you checked for leaks. hoses,lines,pump...
Fuel delivery problem ,as in not enough fuel can cause car to take forever to get power,especially right after cold start.
Bad carburetor?
Has the car been sitting any length of time?
Take a fuel sample?


Just throwing some things at you

Response From Guest

i replaced thr everything on the distributer including [plugs and wires, cap, coil ,pickup,rotor i have tried advancing the timing in 2 degree increments to no avail seeing as it seems to die on hills i will check the fuel pump
thank you for the reply

Response From Double J

To add..

I had an Oldsmobile back when that had a condition similar...took forever to get up to speed...I could get out and walk faster...LOL
....but it had a lean misfire to it after cold start and big time driveability issue cold..would fall flat on its face on hard acceleration,had to ease the gas to get to speed ....not as bad when warm but still noticable...

I found the steel fuel line back near the pump area that had a slight split in it...never ever showed a sign of a leak..I traced the line front to rear and couldn't see any sign of a problem....ran it on an external fuel source,in those days you could,..problem cleared...
So I removed all the lines and inspected and found the split...man it was so small ,barely could see it...put on all new lines,steel and rubber....
Ran like a champ after that...
My point is...sometimes that even tho you don't see a leak,it can still be a fuel delivery /volume problem...

Just a thought...

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

There so many possibilities that could be causing this; it hard to know where to begin.
Is the automatic choke coming off all the way? If not that could explain the fuel smell and low speed stalling, plus the interlock for the “four barrel” would still be on, holding the secondary throttle closed causing the lack of power.
The power valve in the carb might be stuck/seized in one position again causing a low rpm flood and the loss in power, due to lack of fuel for the secondary’s.
The throttle position sensors were famous for failing with these carbs; they placed the sensor inside the carb, in the float bowl. Fuel would find its way into the sensor causing them to either go open or short to reference voltage. Regardless of which way it failed the computer wouldn’t know how far your foot was or wasn’t into the throttle; thus not adjusting timing or changing the dwell on the power valve’s solenoid on time.
Then it might not even be a carb problem; possibly a restricted exhaust/plugged converter; if exhaust can’t get out air can’t get in.
Then there’s engine mechanical; ie a timing chain that is very loose or jumped a tooth. You can still set ignition timing by cranking the distributor around but the valve timing would still be late/retarded.
Just a few thought off the top.

Dan.

Look like we're all thinking about the same here guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Ayup" .......... or "EH" in Canadian!

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Open book of possibilities. Try taking a intake manifold vacuum reading at idle and again at no load at 2,000 RPMs as they should be the same. What is the vacuum reading at idle. If not real close to 18Hg and steady note just what it does and report back.

That would help narrow down exhaust restriction, timing issues, etc.,

T

2005 Grand Am missing and gas hog issues

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Trvsh5 on 2005 Grand Am missing and gas hog issues

We have tried changing the plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, and fuel fliter. Also cleaned the mass airflow sensor. Over the last year it keeps getting worse, the only code it throws is the oxygen sensor even after we changed it. When starting to take off and going under 40mph is runs real rough like misfires. Also when sitting idle for awhile like to warm up, sometimes when I get in the car it smells like gas. The fuel millage has went from 320 to 240 in the last year. I have been told it could be the fuel regulator or the cadillac converter but most mechanics say there is nothing wrong with it...boy are they wrong. It runs so rough its scares me to drive it. Please help before it nickles and dimes me to death playing the guessing game.

Response From Hammer Time

What are the exact code numbers being set?
What engine does it have?

Response From Trvsh5

Im sorry I dont remember the code I can tell you tomorrow after we read it again bc the light came back on tonight. It has the V6 Engine, Im reading online now and it says maybe the timing is off, would that make it eat gas too?

Response From Hammer Time

I need the code numbers

Response From Trvsh5

Ok I know it was the front oxygen sensor but I dont know if it says anything else. I will get the exact code tomorrow morning when I get to work.
Thank you for your help

Response From Hammer Time

There are no less that 20 different codes related to oxygen sensors and they all mean something different.

Response From Trvsh5

Ok it was not the oxygen sensor code this time it was a random misfire code P300. Now were really lost :(

Response From bambam70

does that have the quad 4 engine in it ? either way 4 or six, have you done a power balance on it ? using a test light grounded push it into the wire plugs where they go on the coilpack. make sure all cylinders are firing. sounds like your misfire may be an ignition prob. if you ground one of them and it does not react, thats your prob, that will also make it run rich, causing the o2 sensor to set codes. may not be your wires, may be a prob with your coil paks.

Response From Sidom

You don't want to probe the boot like that with a test light. It puts a hole in the insulate boot and will let the wire arch. Basically it ruins the wires, we're talking high voltage here and don't want any type of leak in the insulated boots or wires.

That's an old school test that actually works pretty good. If you want to do it without ruining the wire, get some 2" sections of vacuum line, super glue a spark plug tip into one end for the wire so the wire will snap on to it and put it in line between the wire & coil pack and then fire up the engine. Now you just need to touch the piece of vacuum line with the test light & it will ground the cyl without ruining the wire........

Response From Trvsh5

We have not done that yet, they have tested the wires and plugs but not to the coil. It does have the V6 engine. I think you might me right bc it has issues starting at times it just did it again tonight where it didnt want to start then i tried again and it started and shut off then on the third try after it started i hit the gas to keep it running, after that it ran fine on the way home. I think im going to try some GM fuel injection cleaner and have the coils tested. Thanks for all your help

Response From Hammer Time

How old are the plugs and wires?
I suspect it will set the O/2 codes again eventually and that will help identify the problem.

Response From Trvsh5 Top Rated Answer

The wires are less than a year old and the plugs are 3 days old. I got good plugs and wires not the cheap ones. Ya im thinking the same thing, just hoping its not the timing chain and it leaves me standed one day lol

76 Firebird valve adjustment

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 76 Firebird valve adjustment

need advice to adjust valves on 350 big block 76 Firebird.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Need more info. Is this an original engine? I don't recall any "big" block 350s by GM??

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for your reply. Car was built in California. The engine is also called an "Ohio Blue". It is a 350 two barrel. Runs pretty well, just the valves sound indicate slightly out of adjustment. I am looking for the proper adjustment procedure.
Also interested in knowing the proper vacum hose routing, though I am aware they were modifying things on a frequent bases in the 70's for enviromental reasons. TX again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'm not going to be of much help as this vintage is when CA was really on it's own. MA joined that club much later. It caused ton's of modifications to meet CA emissions including engines that were not put it certain cars for CA that would have elsewhere. The Chev block outlived them all. Pont, Buick were lost about 1980 leaving just Olds and Chev V8 engines and Cadillac which it wouldn't have.

You need to know what engine is in there by division of GM. Real Pontiac V8s had terrible valve trains and ate timing chains for lunch. Didn't matter as they just got fixed up and still made a powerful engine to keep up with the rest.

Again I'm not familiar with this "Ohio blue" but know of no BIG block GM 350s. Sold to 49 states would have been the 455 big block. Really just size as they look similar.

At any rate I don't know of any solid lifter GM V8s from that vintage and for valve adjustment you relied on the hydraulic lifters to self adjust. If out of spec they would tick and that usually meant a worn camshaft. I'd have to look at a good old paper book on any presets for a real Pont engine. Chev could be adjusted to eliminate ticking and there was a trick with the Olds rocker arms and a bench grinder.

Things like vac diagrams etc. would be available but off anything I could muster. Most folks altered lots of things on these cars in an attempt to gain some HP that about everything lacked.

If you are restoring this car to original I strongly suggest getting in a Firebird club. If you can tell me the block I think I can come up with help with the valves. Good luck,

T

97 Chevrolet Z71starter drags when engine is operating temperature

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From stevieg36 on 97 Chevrolet Z71starter drags when engine is operating temperature

Starts perfect when engine is cold. Changed starter 3 times, all do same thing. New distributor,timing chain and gears, timing set perfect. It has done it since I bought it. Also replaced ground wires and main wire to the starter. I'm ready to throw in the towel. It has a v8 with automatic transmission

Response From Hammer Time

Have you replaced the starter under warranty every time so you are putting the same brand back in?

Response From stevieg36

Yes, all the same. I was thinking about trying a high torque starter.

Response From Hammer Time

Or at least a different brand. There is no such thing as a "high torque" option for any vehicle. If the application requires high torque, all replacements will be engineered the same, although the quality of the rebuild and parts used can be very different

Response From Discretesignals

probably means one of those aftermarket gear reducted starters.

There is a TSB running around for those for slow cranking, broken starters, and back firing. Problem with the crank sensor causing the PCM to advance the timing during cranking putting an ass load of resistance on the starter. Seen one where it broke the nose right off and another where it blew the gasket out of the back of the upper intake when it backfired.

Also when you replace the distributor you have to set the cam shaft offset, so the fuel injection is syncronized properly. You need a scan tool with the option to set the offset. Also when you replace the cranksensor it is a good idea to do a crank angle relearn.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback


File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014

Date: April, 2000

TECHNICAL
Subject:
No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During
Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338
(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine
(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)

Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above

Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.

Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).

Notice : When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.

Important : Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you changed the crankshaft position sensor?

Replace engine or not?

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From rpurinton on Replace engine or not?

Hello, hope I've come to the right place to ask this! I've searched for advice, but I think everyone's situation may be unique and may not be appropriate for my own situation so I've decided to take the plunge and post.

Vehicle in Question: 2006 Cadillac SRX 3.6L - 111K miles
Financed in 2012 for $13500, still owe $5900.

Dealer states the engine needs replacement (loud clanking, no power, stalls, and metal fragments in the oil pan).

Dealer quotes $2300 for engine, 26 hours @ $99/hour for labor.
Also I need to consider the cost of 4 new tires, replacing a tie-rod, and a power steering hose for it to pass the yearly Maine state inspection which is also due. I'm figuring this to all add up to more than I owe left on the vehicle.

I do need a car though (public transport in Maine doesn't really exist), so I'm posed with the decision of what to do next. Here are some options I have thought of, maybe there are others I haven't thought of...

I have about $5000 cash on hand to work with...

I may have a hard time right now getting a new loan because I last year I left my job to become self employed. I already checked with the Credit Union that currently finances me, and they stated that I need a minimum of 2 years of proven self employment income to get a new loan.

I guess let's presume a new loan is out of the equation for now. I am fine with a cheap 'beater' car for a year if I have to, until I can get a new loan though.

I guess the main question now is... do I replace the engine or not?

If I do replace the engine, is the quoted $2300 for parts and $2600 for labor a fair deal? I know dealership labor is typically the highest price, so what might I respect at a non-dealer repair shop? Can anyone recommend a good repair shop in Southern Maine? Should it be possible to get the repairs, tires, around my $5000 cash in hand?

Or is replacing the engine foolish for some reason?

If I don't replace the engine... What would folks recommend instead? I'm assuming before I can junk it or trade it in or sell it for parts I'd need to pay off the loan to get the title, but this does not leave me in a good situation to get another car, ie: no cash on hand and no new loan ability. Maybe just spend my cash on another car instead, and keep the SRX until I'm able to pay it off (maybe 6 month to a year) then try and Sell It, Sell parts off it, or Junk it?

All help is welcome!

Response From Discretesignals

Have you tried getting estimates from some of the licensed and insured independent shops in the area? Ask friends and neighbors where they have their vehicles serviced.

Response From rpurinton

On my to-do list for tomorrow

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check around as said for reasonable options. I'm somewhat familiar with Maine inspections that are strict on even tires rated for the car's ability or could fail new!


Must be spot on with all that stuff.


Again, quite familiar with Maine being from MA w family and friends from Portland and inland around Shapleigh. Of course the best dealer help for a Cadillac will be closer to the larger cities but should or ask about heading inland a bit away from the popular coastal vacation spots, full up about this time of year as you know,


T

Response From rpurinton Top Rated Answer

So I called about a dozen shops yesterday, only 3 of which said they would do this type of work. Best quote I got was for $1575 on a used engine with 114k. They quoted $1600-1900 on top of that to cover labor and quoted to include a replacement water pump, plugs, and 2 timing chains. This was from a very reputable local company that does alot of engine and transmission replacement type jobs. The other 2 shops sounded 'not sure' but provided slightly higher labor quotes and a higher cost for the motor. The tires I can probably get done for about $1000.

So it seems the bottom line is around $4200-4500 for repairs.
Considering, and considering I still owe $5900 on the loan, and I will have a hard time getting a new loan. And with only about $5000 cash on in savings, then I guess my only option is to repair it?

So,

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Understand the shops declining and many don't do whole engine jobs if they are busy enough don't even want to take up the space and time on just one job which is a lot.


IDK - Have you considered either NH near Nashua, Manchester or Concord? Some known decent labor rates and qualified work out of the Lowell, Dracut and Chelmsford area of MA too - just N. of I-495 towards NH boarder. Can't name one for you right now.


Tires are just speed rated on the side wall and door jam should say what the rating is. If this car was designed for sustained speeds of over 80 MPH legal or not to drive that fast the tires must meet that in Maine. Friend in Saco (Portland) got stuck with that on perfectly good tires. Just right size and ratings. Shop for price and brand if fussy,


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