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1980 Pontiac Parisienne Steering Tie Rod Assembly ACDelco - Advantage

P311-1C3FA9F    46B1098A  New

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ACDelco Steering Tie Rod Assembly
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Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
1980 - Pontiac Parisienne
1982 Pontiac Grand LeMans Steering Tie Rod Assembly ACDelco - Advantage

P311-535E9FB    46B0034A  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Steering Tie Rod Assembly
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Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
1982 - Pontiac Grand LeMans
1969 Pontiac Grand Prix Steering Tie Rod Assembly ACDelco - Advantage

P311-0F9F2E4    46B1002A  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Steering Tie Rod Assembly
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Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
1969 - Pontiac Grand Prix

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Pontiac G8 Steering Knock

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From jzpiano on Pontiac G8 Steering Knock

Need help with a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (6.0L) that currently has 23k on it. I'm getting a knocking coming from the car during certain points when turning the steering wheel. I took a video while turning the steering wheel back and forth about 10-15 degrees. Seemed like the noise was coming from the steering rack/column so I have removed a few components to get a good video of it. If I go lock to lock it will make the noise as well, but only at certain points. Any help would be appreciated.

Response From GC

Have you verified that the struts are not binding? Check any joints on the steering shaft for play. Feel the different components while a helper makes it clunk and see which you can feel a clunk in. Sorry dont have an easy answer.

Response From jzpiano

Strut mounts on this car are a known problem and were installed with polyurethane bushings for the entire car less than 2k miles ago. About 1k miles ago the struts were blown and had to be replaced and a set of coilovers was installed. I did try and feel around to see if I could "feel" the clunking. Thought it was coming from the steering rack which I pulled out of the car today. Everything there looks good.

Could it just be bad fluid?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Never heard of power steering fluid causing.

Before you had removed the rack, you could have disconnected the tie rods from the knuckles to eliminate struts problems. If the noise was still there after disconnecting the tie rods, then you could have disconnected the steering coupler and then rotated the steering rack pinion shaft by hand to see if the noise is definitely inside the rack or not.

Response From jzpiano

When I made the video the tie rods were off the car so that should eliminate that. Now that I have the rack off I've moved things by hand and everything feels smooth and I'm not getting any noise. I'm honestly stumped....

Response From Double J

There is a TSB out for this concern

Google TSB # 09-09-41-001

#09-09-41-001: Knock Noise from Steering Wheel While Turning (Apply Flocked Tape to Steering Wheel Inflatable Restraint Module) - (Mar 10, 2009)

Subject: Knock Noise from Steering Wheel While Turning (Apply Flocked Tape to Steering Wheel Inflatable Restraint Module)

Models: 2008-2009 Pontiac G8


Some customers may comment about a knock noise coming from the steering wheel or the steering column when making turning maneuvers 90 degrees in either direction.

This condition may be caused by the steering wheel inflatable restraint module sliding from side to side, resulting in the knock noise. Decreasing the lateral clearance of the module locating pins will stop the knock.

Response From Discretesignals

Either you can install another rack and see if that was the problem or put the old one back in and start from scratch. If you decide you want to install another rack, you could take the old one apart to see if there is anything wrong with the pinion shaft gear or rack gear.

Rack and pinion boot

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From mrwilson on Rack and pinion boot

I have a Pontiac Grand Prix GT 2001. My brother in law was working on replacing the outter tie rod on the driver side along with putting in a new sway bar. There is now a boot ripped. He told me it was the inner tie rod boot (he told me to have it replaced when I take the car in to have it aligned). when I called the automotive place I was going to have it aligned they said it is the rack and pinion boot, and that it doesn't need to be replaced. I am worried that it really should be replaced and want to make sure that I am doing the right thing. I don't want to not replace it and then cause more problems with the rack and pinion. Any suggestions on what I should be doing would be helpful.

Response From Hammer Time

That's called a bellows boot and it is rather important. It keeps all the dirt, sand and grime from getting into your rack and pinion and that would damage it. It has to be done before the alignment because the outer tie rod end has to be removed to change it.

Response From mrwilson Top Rated Answer

Thank you so much, i felt like it should be done but dont know much about cars, so i appreciate the help!

Proper Alignment procedure?

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From chadstraub on Proper Alignment procedure?

After replacing the tie rod on a 2006 Pontiac Gand Prix, is it proper procedure to adjust the alignment on both the front end and the rear end, or just the front?

Response From Hammer Time

A wheel alignment always consists of adjusting both the front and rear (if adjustable), regardless of what was done to the car.

Response From chadstraub

thank you.

My dealership service department failed to perform an alignment (or to offer or recommend it) after replacing the tie rod and hub assembly on my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix. Les schwab installed 2 new front tires immediately after this service.

6000 miles later, while attempting to have my tires rotated, severe wear was noticed on the inside shoulder of both front tires. The technician at Les Schwab suggested that the wear was a result of improper alignment.

My service deptartment performed an alignment check, which showed that the front right toe, and both rear toes were off slightly. They adjusted the front, and insisted that the wear on my front tires could not have been caused by the improper alignment.

After bringing the Les Schwab tech up to speed, he assured my not only that the wear on my tires was likely a result of the improper alignment, but also that in the event of suspension work requiring a wheel alignment both the front and rear should be checked/adjusted.

When I explained this to my service rep she disagreed with the statement made by the Les Schwab tech, and insisted that in her many years with a chevy service department, front wheel drive vehicles undergoing suspension work only ever had the front end alignment checked/adjusted afterward.

So my new question is:

How do I go about disputing the claims of my service rep?

Response From Hammer Time

The is really no such thing as a "front only" alignment now and hasn't been for at least 10 years. A wheel alignment always consists of measuring all 4 wheels and adjusting whatever angles that are out of specification and also have a means to adjust them. Even many cars that don't have a means of adjustment built in can have kits added to create a means of adjustment.

Severe tire wear is something that always comes back to incorrect alignment angles. The only question then is what will it take to correct the issue.

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

With the age and most likely high mileage . If you have not had a full alignment recently . I would recommend all angles be checked , caster ,camber , f & r toe , thrust angle , and sia . A full alignment , hey tires aint cheap .
note : advise was given before poster answer ,but still good general advise so i'm leaving it.

98 sunfire front end issues

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From sunfiregt1 on 98 sunfire front end issues

I have a 98 pontiac sunfire and there is a steady knocking sound coming from the front end (i'm pretty sure the pass. side) when cruising at a steady speed on smooth surfaces. When I gradually ease the steering to the left, as in to make a lane change to the left, the knocking becomes a little louder. If I'm in the left lane and change to the right, it goes away. Also, if you grab the right front wheel with the weight of the car on the wheel, you can feel slack from side-to-side.

I took the car to Pep Boys, Mosley's (local shop), and Midas who all said motor mounts. The car did need mounts but I know for a fact that its coming from the front end! When I went to pep boys, I finally let them do the mounts to prove my with new mounts im still having the noise.

This morning I went to gateway and had the hub bearing assembly replaced..which was bad but didn't solve the slack issue...

Any Ideas?? I suspect Inner/Outer Tie Rod, but every shop i go to says they're all tight! IM AT A LOSS HERE! lol

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

for tie rod ends, have someone wiggle the wheel slightly left and right, just enough to get the steering to move.

then watch the tie rod end. if it has movement before it moves the knuckle, they the end is bad

Response From Double J

Just to add..

Have the lower ball joints checked for wear as well as the lower control arm bushings.



Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Pyrcide on Alignment...

1998 Pontiac Grand Prix
3.8 SE (no sc)

This forum has been helpful in the past, and I try to help as much as I can. 2 years ago I took my car in for a front end alignment. They told me the sway bar was broke, the rotors were shot, and the tie rods were crap, so they wouldnt do the alignment, and charged me for telling me I'm screwed. Since then I have replaced the rotors and tie rods (with brand new ones), and welded the stabalizer bar back together. This was only a few weeks ago that I have done the repairs, and the car was barely driven from the first diagnosis, as it sat in my garage awaiting a new motor.
So after the repairs I made, the sway bar, the rotors, and the tie rods, I take it back in for a regular front end alignment. Once again, I go to pick up the car today and they tell me I'm screwed. Can't do an aligment, your wheel bearings are loose, and more blah blah blah... that added up to $1400. Obviuosly the shop is trying to screw me. I just want my front tires straight. They are whistling really bad, and very uneven tread wear, I dont want to soak another 2 grand into this car to get my front tires aligned. Surely you can all feel my frustration. I just ask if anyone can give me some advice as to getting this front end better aligned until I can afford the repairs. Any comments or help are more than welcome. Thank you

Response From zmame

As far as setting the allignment on the car the sway bar wouldn't have much to do with your reading.. but if a link was broken and going to damage to other components I would have mentioned it. Tie rods, balljoint, bushing and wheel bearings have to have no play to have a proper allignment done.. that little bit of play can mess with your numbers.

Response From Hammer Time

Why don't you try a different shop and see what they say. I know there are many, not so honest front end shops out there. They make their money by finding things wrong. Some have been known to exaggerate.

Response From Discretesignals

Welded the stabilizer bar? Are your wheel bearings loose? If so, your camber and toe would be out every time you hit a bump. First order before performing an alignment is visual inspection and so far they were right on the things you decided to replace and repair yourself.

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

As HT alluded to . A second opinion is the best way to protect yourself from unscrupulous individual doctors , contractors , mechanics and other professionals.