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Best Selling Genuine Nissan Heater Cores

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Genuine, Metrix, APDI
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Nissan Replacement Heater Core Parts

We stock Heater Core parts for most Nissan models, including 300ZX, 350Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Pickup, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Xterra.

Genuine
1993 Nissan 300ZX HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-3DFE1A6    W0133-1603693  New

Qty:
$189.42
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Nissan 300ZX
Genuine
1990 Nissan 300ZX HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-3DFE1A6    W0133-1603693  New

Qty:
$189.42
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 02/01/1989-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1990 - Nissan 300ZX Fr:02-01-89
Metrix
2003 Nissan Murano HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-4580D6B    W0133-1725577  New

Qty:
$143.06
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: 09/01/2002-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Murano Fr:09-01-02
Metrix
2006 Nissan Murano HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-4580D6B    W0133-1725577  New

Qty:
$143.06
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Nissan Murano
Metrix
2007 Nissan Murano HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-4580D6B    W0133-1725577  New

Qty:
$143.06
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: -09/30/2007
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Murano To:09-30-07
Metrix
2007 Nissan Altima HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-02C343F    W0133-1908811  New

Qty:
$163.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: 10/01/2006-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Altima Fr:10-01-06
Metrix
2013 Nissan Altima HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-02C343F    W0133-1908811  New

Qty:
$163.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2013 - Nissan Altima Coupe
Metrix
2009 Nissan Maxima HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-02C343F    W0133-1908811  New

Qty:
$163.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: 05/01/2008-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Nissan Maxima Fr:05-01-08
Metrix
1994 Nissan D21 HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-1CD43B8    W0133-1601107  New

Qty:
$213.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Nissan D21
Metrix
1987 Nissan D21 HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-1CD43B8    W0133-1601107  New

Qty:
$213.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: 05/1987-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1987 - Nissan D21 Fr:05-00-87
Metrix
1995 Nissan Pickup HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-1CD43B8    W0133-1601107  New

Qty:
$213.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: -12/1995
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Nissan Pickup To:12-00-95
Metrix
1988 Nissan 200SX HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-1CD43B8    W0133-1601107  New

Qty:
$213.95
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • Production: 07/01/1987-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1988 - Nissan 200SX Fr:07-01-87
Genuine
2002 Nissan Maxima HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-0572F72    W0133-1600242  New

Qty:
$428.51
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Some aftermarket heater cores require that the inlet and outlet hose connectors from the old core be removed and reinstalled on the replacement heater core. The o-rings between the hose connectors and the heater core are not included with the aftermarket heater core; order 2 of heater core o-ring #92232-71L00 separately if needed for this purpose.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Nissan Maxima
APDI
2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-1794D34    9010385  New

27140F4300 , 93002 , 271402W600 , 271407Y000 , 271404Y900 , 2714010Y00 , 271400Z800 , 2714040U00 , 271401E400 , 271401M200 , 94002 , 271405P100 , 271400W000 , 399955 , 72130FA001 , 271407Z102 , 72130FA021 , 72130FA000 , 271401N700 , B71405P100 , 72130AE010 , 79110S0KA01 , 399174 , 2714061J15 , 96083 , 98002

Qty:
$34.55
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 5-1/2
    • Inlet Connection (in): Bracket Fitting
    • Outlet Connection (in): Bracket Fitting
  • Heater - Acura
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Pathfinder Armada
APDI
1993 Nissan Quest HVAC Heater Core - Front APDI - Heater Core

P311-1794D34    9010385  New

27140F4300 , 93002 , 271402W600 , 271407Y000 , 271404Y900 , 2714010Y00 , 271400Z800 , 2714040U00 , 271401E400 , 271401M200 , 94002 , 271405P100 , 271400W000 , 399955 , 72130FA001 , 271407Z102 , 72130FA021 , 72130FA000 , 271401N700 , B71405P100 , 72130AE010 , 79110S0KA01 , 399174 , 2714061J15 , 96083 , 98002

Qty:
$34.55
APDI HVAC Heater Core  Front
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 5-1/2
    • Inlet Connection (in): Bracket Fitting
    • Outlet Connection (in): Bracket Fitting
  • Heater - Acura
Brand: APDI
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Nissan Quest Front
Genuine
2004 Nissan Frontier HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-1A726FD    W0133-1723889  New

Qty:
$455.57
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -09/30/2004
  • Some aftermarket heater cores require that the inlet and outlet hose connectors from the old core be removed and reinstalled on the replacement heater core. The o-rings between the hose connectors and the heater core are not included with the aftermarket heater core; order 2 of heater core o-ring #92232-71L00 separately for this purpose if needed.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Pickup To:09-30-04
Genuine
2002 Nissan Frontier HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-1A726FD    W0133-1723889  New

Qty:
$455.57
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2001-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Pickup Fr:07-01-01
Genuine
2003 Nissan Xterra HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-1A726FD    W0133-1723889  New

Qty:
$455.57
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Nissan Xterra
Genuine
2004 Nissan Xterra HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-1A726FD    W0133-1723889  New

Qty:
$455.57
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/2004
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Xterra To:12-00-04
Genuine
2001 Nissan Xterra HVAC Heater Core Genuine

P311-1A726FD    W0133-1723889  New

Qty:
$455.57
Genuine HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2000-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Nissan Xterra Fr:07-01-00

Latest Nissan Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Nissan Altima Heater

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jerious on Nissan Altima Heater

I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5L and having problems with the heater. I turn it on, it blows cool air. When I drive at fast speeds, the heat starts to work. When I slow down, it blows cool air. Any ideas? Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Start with the basic checks - coolant known full, not overheating etc..

Then - feel hoses to and from heater core when it blows cold. If hot going in and stone cold (ambient temp) coming out it isn't getting adequate flow.

Anything that could restrict flow could be at fault and possibly a strange behavior with a blend door but I don't think that's all that speed sensitive. There are more and more reports of failed water pump impellers that just can't cut it without higher RPMs and a way to check on that is to hold idle speed up to some reasonable speed and see if heat will return. If so or even improves a good amount I'd blame the water pump. I'd also expect to see corroded impeller when removed. It could also be a partially plugged heater core I suppose so put that on the check list too,

T

Response From jerious

Thanks for your help!

96 NISSAN SENTRA HEATER PROB

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From sentra96 on 96 NISSAN SENTRA HEATER PROB

I have a 96 Nissan Sentra with a heater prob. When I let the car run for 10-15min, the heat is luke warm. as soon as I start driving, the heat increases, BUT, when i slow down the heat decreases, and when I stop, I'm back to luke warm. The air doesn't get cold unless it is very cold outside. My coleague told me that if the needle on the water temp gauge on the dash goes up registering heat than the thermostat is ok. If the thermostat is stuck open, would it still register heat on the gauge, and if it is stuck open could this be causing my prob? Every time I stop to get fuel I check the coolant resivour and often have to fill it to max again. What might be causing the heater prob?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Coolant is not suppose to get used up like what motor oil will; so you must have some form of leak?
If the thermostat is stuck open it will or could still register on the temp gauge but lower then the “normal”. Usually a stuck open thermostat will give you the opposite lack of heat problem from what you’re explaining. Sitting still you will have some heat but once you start to move the cold air rushing through the rad will make the already cool engine run colder.
I’m thinking a partly clogged heater core that when you’re idling the engine; the coolant cannot get through the heater core. When you start driving that speeds up the water pump and now warm/hot coolant is being forced through the core.
What I would try is to have the heater core flushed out and while the cooling system is drained do the thermostat as well; so that the temp gauge is up into it’s normal range.
If the core is plugged with calcium it may not all come out but hopefully enough to get you more heat in the car.
Dan.

Response From sentra96

Dan, Thank You for your reply. Some car buffs at work said the exact same thing you did in your reply. Now I can't wait for the weekend to do this.
If there is no coolant on the ground under the car, or anywhere else, where is the coolant going?

Thanks Again Dan,
Jesse

Response From DanD

You may need to have the cooling system pressure tested; it could be such a small leak that it is evaporating on any hot surface in the engine compartment and never hitting the ground. Pressure testing a cold engine will give you the pressure in the system without the normal heat that occurs with the engine running and you may then find the leak.
This leak may also be internal and the coolant is going out the tail pipe in very small amounts; too the point that it is not visible as in steam, not until the leak becomes worse anyway. If this is the case combustion gases will also be leaking into the cooling system; there are tests that can be performed to confirm this.
The test method I use will detect even the slightest amount of combustion gases; if any are found then the engine would need to come apart, to have the cylinder head gasket replaced and to have the cylinder head checked for cracks or warp-age.
Again if any combustion gases are found in the cooling system the issue should be dealt with right away. If a small leak turns into a large one it could cause severe damage to the whole engine.
Dan.

Response From sentra96

Thanks Again Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hard to do with Dan on this but if this t-stat is hard to get at test a new one in a pan of water on a stove. You should probably buy one at a Nissan dealer and get the one for the right temp. They all will open if correct by the specified temp.

This will not solve the systey of cooland loss that's unseen. A head gasket can burn up the coolant and if slow enough you may not see it. They don't heal and avoid sealers as they can't fix water pumps or head gaskets and can clog a heater core and make it worse. Good luck, T

Overheating due to radiator stop leak.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From cheffington999 on Overheating due to radiator stop leak.

hello, i have a 1986 nissan maxima (3.0 v6) with 96k miles. this past september, i used stop leak in an attempt to fix a leaky heater core. after using it, it gummed up the cooling system causing the temp gage to go past the normal operating temp. i had it flushed a month ago and replaced the thermostat yesterday. while replacing the thermostat, i noticed that there was still a thin coating of stop leak inside the hoses and the radiator. the temp gage still goes past the center mark (which it never did prior to stop leak) i am planning on completely fixing the problem by having the system pressure flushed again and replacing the radiator which is original to the car. I am just looking for some suggestions on what to do to completely solve the problem.
By the way, the car does not leak coolant, and the heater core is bypassed.
Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You're on the right track with what you are doing. About the only other thing that may still have a problem is the heater core. It will get clogged just like the radiator and it already has leak issues.

NEVER do that again. There is no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can".

2005 Nissan Sentra No Heat

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From littlerednissan on 2005 Nissan Sentra No Heat

The heat in my 2005 Nissan Sentra is only working intermittedly. The radiator was hot on one side, but cold on the other, so we thought the radiator was clogged so we replaced the radiator and cap (which I think was leaking) and the thermostat. However the radiator is still cold on one side and the heater hoses are cold. When I start driving the heat comes on occasionally.

Response From littlerednissan

We realized after we posted the initial post, that the radiator is not actually cool on one side, he was actually feeling the ac condenser in front of the radiator and that is what felt cold.

We are still having the issue where the hoses into the radiator are hot, but the ones going into the car are not.

Just drove the car for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge never went above the half way point

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If both heater hoses are cool/warm to the touch, then there is a flow problem going into the heater core. Either core is plugged up or there isn't good flow going into it....

You could try taking heater hose off & flushing it out with garden hose.

Response From littlerednissan

Forgot to mention - One of the heater hoses is definitely warmer than the other and when the heat is working it is warmer on the passenger side than the drivers side. In fact, sometimes the passenger side blows hot air and the drivers side is downright cold. Will try flushing them with a hose, thanks for the suggestion!

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine? Is it overheating?

Response From littlerednissan

Nissan Sentra 1.8S
The engine was running hot when I was stopped at lights, but would cool when I started to drive. Since we replaced the radiator it hasn't been running hot.

Response From Sidom

Have you made sure the cooling fans are coming on after the engine heats up?

Response From littlerednissan

The cooling fans are coming on.

Response From Discretesignals

The upper radiator hose is hot, but the lower radiator hose is cold? How did the old radiator look inside? Was it really crusty or plugged?

Response From littlerednissan

The hoses going into and out of the radiator are hot, but the hoses going from the engine into the car are not. I just drove it for about 20 minutes and the heat never came on. I parked for about 15 minutes while I ran into the store and when I fired it up the heat came on, though the air was not as warm at the red lights as when I was actually driving.

The old radiator looked fine, not crusty or plugged from what I could tell, but we are pretty sure it had a leak because it was almost empty and you could smell antifreeze when the car was running, both inside the car (through the vents) and if you were standing over the engine while it was running.

2000 Nissan Altima Overheating After Water Pump Change

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jcollins23 on 2000 Nissan Altima Overheating After Water Pump Change

I have a 2000 Nissan Altima. I replaced my water pump and belts and flushed the cooling system. When I put it all back together and started it back up the engine got really hot. Everything was working before the water pump went out.

I’m assuming there is air trapped somewhere in the cooling system. However, I can't seem to find where it's trapped. I'm hoping the description below might at least help someone point me to where the blockage is, or possibly point to something else that's causing the problem.

Symptoms:
-Car starts out at a good temperature when starting cold, but after a few minutes it overheats
-Air blows out when I turn on the heater but no hot air
-Car runs fine when I turn it on. No rough running or extra exhaust so I would tend to rule out any head gasket problems.
-I can hear the heater core motor running.
-Just before it's about to overheat, the radiator jerks around a bit like it's super hot. The upper radiator hose is boiling hot. The other hose going to the thermostat is cold (which I suspect is normal since the radiator would cool the water on its way down?)
-Both heater hoses are warm, but definitely not hot like the upper radiator hose is. The heater hoses don't feel like they have much coolant running through them.
-Occasionally while the car is idling the RPM gauge jumps up and down from 1000 to 2000. This does not occur when I have the flush n fill cap removed.
-If I take the cap off the flush n fill kit in the heater inlet house I see no coolant. If I run the car for a few minutes and it reaches operating
temperature, some fluid sprays out periodically, but the interesting thing is is the temperature remains down. If I just keep adding fluid to the overflow tank, and let it shoot out the heater hose, the temperature stays down. If I cap off the heater hose again, after about a minute the car starts to overheat. Is this because the hot coolant can't get pass the heater core? This makes me think that the heater core may be plugged.

Actions take so far (all with heater turned on to max and blower on max):
-Replaced the water pump, pulley and belts
-Bled the cooling system 3 separate times following shop manual instructions (finally found the bleeder bolt and made sure it was open while bleeding).
-Took the water pump back off to inspect. Water pump looks fine and spins freely. Looked for any blockage in cooling hoses near water pump and found nothing blocking
-Changed the thermostat, making sure to install it in the correct direction.
-Replaced radiator cap
-Tried cracking open the flush n fill cap just a little but that still causes it to overheat.
-Flushed cooling system with thermostat removed and using one of those flush kits that attaches to the heater hose.
-Tried temporarily removing thermostat, no change
-Turned on A/C and the two radiator fans kicked in. When I run the heater on hot the two radiator fans only turn on if I've opened the flush n fill cap and let a lot of hot coolant escape for several minutes.

Questions:
-Could it be a clogged or bad radiator or heater core?
-What would you recommend I try next? I thought about disconnecting both heater hoses from the engine side and running the garden hose through one to see if it comes out the other end (should tell me if heater core is plugged?). Would attaching the garden hose also potentially clear the blockage?
-If this sounds like it could be a radiator problem, anything I could check on the radiator?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It all worked fine before the water pump? What was the pump's original problem and did it do a nasty overheat?

Did flushing show any or much junk coming out?

Sure seems like air is still in the system either not purged out or gasses entering thru a blown gasket. Check pressure at pressure cap for pressuring up way too quickly upon a cold start up.

Heater not warm suggest air or it's blocked. Is this "flush kit" possibly the problem if left in a hose?

T

Response From jcollins23 Top Rated Answer


The pump started leaking when the bearing on the pulley went out. I don't recall if it overheated at the time. However, that's definitely a possiblity.

When I flushed it the fluid looked good.

Is there a good way to test the pressure at the cap? I have heard that you can have this done at a shop. Possible to do at home? Not sure what I would need.

I'll try removing the flush kit as well to see if that's a problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Cap can be tested by the pressure testing kits that I think you can rent now at places like AutoZone - I don't think that's the issue at all. If you can feel any pressure in a hose from when cap was off the cap probably is working pressure release wise.

Still think you have air to get out. The flushing being clean is a good sign. Air can be a nightmare with some cars. When you fill it best you can thru cap if on radiator, highest hose if need be, open any bleeder if the high point till coolant comes out you would think it would be close enough but you are saying heater doesn't work so obviously not.

That is very likely vapor, air, but not liquid going thru the lines.

I said before if you notice it pressure up fast from cold that's too fast - hard to define that. Remove cap if known to hold pressure when warmer but BE WICKED CAREFUL ABOUT THAT!!!! and put it back on. If it pressures up again right away there's just combustion gasses likely getting into cooling system - that is usually caused by a gasket leak any that are sealing exhaust gasses or combustion gasses from cooling system. Usually a head gasket. It can be a tough call and usually you see bubbles or recovery tank fill right up time after time. Diag that well as it's a lot of work to be wrong there and this could still be a purging problem.

Some purging tricks are to get it as full as you can by all means. Warm it up just till you know thermostat is open. Shut down - it actually warms up a tad when first shut down and tilt the car such that the radiator cap or best fill spot is the highest within some sane angle. If that helps and it start to do better - heat works then it should finish itself by driving, stop and cool drive again, keep checking level at tank. At some point just the recovery tank shout get the air to tank and return only liquid and it's DONE!

T

Response From Guest

Recheck the belt routing, we had a garage install it improperly.