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Mopar
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Mopar

P311-13BF856    53020989AB  New

Qty:
$48.07
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Drive Type Valves Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Wheel FeedBase Engine Version Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 ST - RWD 12 Naturally Aspirated GAS K SOHC FI 140.5 Magnum V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Mopar
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mopar

P311-49EFCB1    53020673AD  New

Qty:
$65.78
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Valves Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Wheel FeedBase Engine Version
2011 - Ram 1500 SLT - 16 Naturally Aspirated FLEX P SOHC FI 120.5 Magnum
Victor Gaskets
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-4AABB9B    54237A  New

26157 PT

Qty:
$48.05
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Standard Thickness, 95mm Bore Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.74
      • 95.00
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Thickness:
      • 0.05
      • 1.37
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Victor Gaskets
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-48E955A    54250A  New

26229 PT

Qty:
$33.54
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Standard Thickness, 95mm Bore Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.74
      • 95.00
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Thickness:
      • 0.03
      • 0.71
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 K V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Victor Gaskets
2016 Ram 2500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 8 Cyl 5.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-2896602    54417A  New

26286 PT , 5302 1620AE , 5302 2306AA , 26426 PT , 5302 1620BC

Qty:
$33.24
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Standard Thickness, Overbore Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 101.50
      • 4.00
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: Standard
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Premium Replacement
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Thickness:
      • 0.03
      • 0.74
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Ram 2500 Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Victor Gaskets
2013 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 8 Cyl 5.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-4CF26E3    54418A  New

26423 PT , 5302 1621BC , 5302 1621AE , 5302 2307AA

Qty:
$33.24
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Standard Thickness, Overbore Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 101.50
      • 4.00
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Thickness: Standard
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Thickness:
      • 0.04
      • 0.91
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 Left V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Victor Gaskets
2012 Ram 5500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 6.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-203AE5C    54774  New

6801 4991AA , 4932210 , FP4932210 , 26679 PT

Qty:
$98.78
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 109.10
      • 4.30
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Thickness:
      • 0.07
      • 1.88
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 5500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Victor Gaskets
2015 Ram ProMaster 2500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 6 Cyl 3.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-2AC3CE5    54879  New

26541 PT , 05184456AH

Qty:
$39.25
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; OE Type Gasket Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.80
      • 96.50
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.04
      • 0.97
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram ProMaster 2500 Right V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Victor Gaskets
2014 Ram ProMaster 3500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 6 Cyl 3.6L Victor Gaskets

P311-42124FD    54880  New

5184 455AI , 5184 455AJ , 5184 455AH , 26542PT , 5184 455AG , 05184455AH

Qty:
$37.46
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; OE Type Gasket Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.81
      • 96.70
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.04
      • 1.07
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Ram ProMaster 3500 Left V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mopar
2013 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.6L Mopar

P311-01CB2B1    W0133-3638152  New

Qty:
$41.23
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mahle
2015 Ram C/V Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-2953F33    W0133-3767779  New

Qty:
$55.87
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Ram C/V
Mahle
2018 Ram ProMaster 2500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.6L Mahle

P311-2953F33    W0133-3767779  New

Qty:
$55.87
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ram ProMaster 2500 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mahle
2014 Ram ProMaster 3500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.6L Mahle

P311-2953F33    W0133-3767779  New

Qty:
$55.87
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Ram ProMaster 3500 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mahle
2014 Ram ProMaster 3500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.6L Mahle

P311-2953F33    W0133-3767779  New

Qty:
$55.87
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Ram ProMaster 3500 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mahle
2011 Ram Dakota Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mahle

P311-4586EEF    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$68.56
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram Dakota V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mahle
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mahle

P311-4586EEF    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$68.56
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mopar
2013 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 4.7L Mopar

P311-13E16EE    W0133-1929185  New

Qty:
$74.33
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mahle
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Mahle

P311-2F78DF9    W0133-1929186  New

Qty:
$48.90
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Mopar
2011 Ram 1500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Mopar

P311-4EC40D3    W0133-1929186  New

Qty:
$54.26
Mopar Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Mahle
2015 Ram 5500 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 6.7L Mahle

P311-020DF4B    W0133-1932278  New

Qty:
$159.50
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram 5500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -

Latest Ram Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 ram 1500

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From broncobob552002 on 1999 ram 1500

i have a 1999 ram 318 the radiator has back pressure before the thermostat opens

Response From broncobob552002

thx for the reply my radiator has back pressure enough to poor out the overflow bottle (cold water) and temp guage will over heat until thermostat opens i've replaced thermostat and rad cap top hose waterpump hope you can help and thx again (oh I have new radiator too)

Response From GC

So if you start the vehicle cold, does the upper radiator hose stay cool even when the temp gauge rises above normal? Need to get a infrared thermometer and check against gauge and verify temp that tstat opens. A pressure tester would be very helpful. When does it overflow?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

System has to be known full. Air or vapor anywhere or anyhow getting in to system will blow out that bottle like a real overheat which your gauge shows as well. Probably is.

This can happen from a head gasket failure frequently the result of your original issue not the cause but doesn't matter now check whole system out and that too,

T

Response From Hammer Time

So........ what's the issue?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No issue yet at HT said. T-stat doesn't make or allow pressure, the pressure cap does,


T

2000 Dodge Ram still overheats

Showing 8 out of 17 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Christian9653 on 2000 Dodge Ram still overheats

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD, 5.9L with 146k miles. Radiator cracked and started to overheat for less than 2 min. (long enough to get it off the interstate. So I replaced radiator, water pump, hoses, (except heater hoses), thermostat. Changed oil, new plugs, distributor cap. (wires next).

Still overheats.

Water is running out of overflow when running. Heater only gets warm when you step on gas. Also, you can hear water sucking sound under dashboard. When I turn the heater on the AC runs too now. No obvious leaks except from overflow. Thought I had something but then saw it was condensation from the AC (which was supposed to be off)

Response From nickwarner

likely you have an air pocket in the cooling system still. The last of heat in the cab is a big indicator. I use a Lisle Spill-Free funnel that most any parts house can sell you for pretty cheap. Comes with adapters for many types of caps. It allows room for the coolant to surge up without making a big mess. Run the engine through a few cycles of thermostat opening and closing with the funnel on in place of the cap. This way the system doesn't pressurize. Keep the heater control on hot the whole time. You'll see the air pockets working out in the funnel, and be able to feel how much heat you're getting in the cab. As to the AC issue, check for power at the AC clutch. If present you have a separate electrical short that can be taken care of for now by pulling the fuse for the AC. If the AC continues to run without electrical power, you have a locked up clutch and it shouldn't be driven until replaced as it will build up a tremendous overload of pressure when it isn't able to cycle off and will cause you such costly damage that the repair bill will make a wrecker bill look like a deal of a lifetime. Post back and let us know what you find.

Response From Christian9653

So what I have done so far today is get some flush and am flushing out the system. I figured it couldn't hurt and maybe I had some blockage. I'll fill it back up and let you guys know. Thanks a bunch. So far so good.

Response From Christian9653

Using just straight water I have attempted to refill the coolant system. After about 2.5 gallons it's bubbling and overflowing. When it goes down I add more water. It should be a 5 gallon capacity. I have let overflow and attempted to place 7 gallons of water. Bubbles keep coming up like someone is blowing with a straw in the water. No engine smoke, no water in the oil,(AC shut off BTW ok). Idles a tiny bit rough but runs very smooth. Is this my head gasket?

Response From Christian9653

Well drove it ,around the block and the temperature varies quite a bit. Water is blowing out of the overflow. Idle is rougher and the engine light came on with a po300,po301, and po302 reported on the ODB. All the results are pointing to a head gasket. Next question...

I know their are additives to try and seal the gasket. Should I even try that? Or am I just putting on the wrong band aid which will cause me more problems?

Response From Christian9653

New Development! Water on the floorboard on the passenger side. That means Heat core(coil) has gone bad I believe. At least I know what to try and fix.

Response From Christian9653

Updates and issues:

Hard to start. Once it did a little blue smoke. Exhaust "feels" moist but it's hard to tell. Still idles rough.

Put a radiator pressure gauge on it and got a 17lbs. reading. While idling it started to run warm. Shut it off pressure dropped slowly down to 14lbs.

The top hose was cold. Lower hose had pressure and was warm.

Pulled the #1,#2,#4,#6 spark plugs. All had a white residue. No moisture.

Next I am going to put a 2nd new thermostat in it tomorrow and run a compression test on each cylinder.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You do a pressure test with engine off as with certain head gasket and or intake gasket failures you would blow radiator and heater cores with too much pressure if allowed.

Your new plugs already show flaws so I'd proceed to check for blown head gasket(s) and hope that's all that's damaged,

T

Response From Christian9653

OK, took out the thermostat. Checked it and it was sticking. Put in another one. By-passed the heater core, flushed the system again and the temp is now fine. New plug wires. No codes. Did another pressure test on the radiator cap. While running pressure got up to 28lbs. at idle. As I released the pressure you could smell fresh gas coming through the cap. So, in the morning I am going to do a compression check on the cylinders. I believe at this point the intake manifold gasket is leaking. Will know more tomorrow. I have all the gaskets so this weekend I am planning on changing the Head gaskets and manifold gaskets. Hopefully the compression test will tell me more. Still no water in the oil or oil in the water. No smoke. Just bubbles in the overflow of the radiator.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How in the heck are you using a pressure tester? You would pump one up to see if it would hold or where it would leak not exceeding the systems rating which is probably about 16 psi. You DON'T leave it on with engine running and wait for pressure to built up or allow it over the limit.

If testing with engine running and a pressure tester you would be ready to quit and release pressure if it built up from zero with engine running right away instead of slow heat expansion. If fast that way it's near sure combustion gasses are entering the cooling system.


If head gasket(s) are determined bad do send out the heads to a machine shop for inspection and or service as they may be warped beyond machine work limits or cracked,

T

Response From Christian9653

Here are the results (and they are not good)

Right bank #1=110, #3=100, #5=125, #7=95

Left bank #2=120, #4=135, #6= 115, #8=105

These numbers are all over the place. I don't know what they should be, but I do know that isn't right. I would think that each bank would be the same and that both banks should be within 10.

I did a pressure test on the radiator when the engine was cold and could not find any leakage, sounds of leakage or signs of fluids anywhere. That's why I tried it with the engine at idle.

I am a novice at this fellows. That said, I am doing what I can to get the diagnostics the best I can. I do have some help to pull the top part of the engine off. Also, I have found a machine shop to check the heads when I do.

I have to try and fix this myself. I just don't have the funds at this time to pay a shop to do it all.

I want to thank everyone, especially Tom for all the great advice and help.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Please comment on these numbers and what they might mean. Any tips on pulling this thing apart and putting it back together will also be taken in.

I will check other threads as well.

The saga continues,

Thanks again,

Chris

Response From Sidom

Just skimmed thru this thread and is sounds like you're on the right track.....

I'll just add one quick suggestion. If it was mentioned & I missed it, I apologize....

When running a compression test the throttle needs to be held wide open, compression is very dependent on air volume. Also it would be a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay, start the engine and let it die. This way the cyl walls aren't getting washed out with gas. Holding the pedal @ wide open should clearflood it & kill the injectors but this way you know for sure, also have all the plugs out at the same time.

(ok that was 3 but I never claimed I could count)

Response From Christian9653 Top Rated Answer

I went ahead and did another compression test with the good advice I have been given and the numbers came out a little better but not what I would like.

Right bank #1=135, #3=115, #5=135, #7=115

Left bank #2=100, #4=145, #6=130, #8=125

I did get misfire codes 302 and 306 this time. Also after idle, turn off and starting back up was a hard start. (This baby has always started at a quick turn of the key)

Radiator overflow still bubbles steady. But the truck runs smooth and does not over heat. I went to 2 different auto parts stores and they did not have any test strips. So I'll keep looking.

Sounds like with all the testing it's time for intake and head gaskets. I'm going to start on tearing it down Friday.

Any tips and opinions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

My fingers just refuse to type that I'm sure of anything but the constant bubbles in radiator especially if right away is a damning clue for the gaskets.

Advice. Work as clean as you can. # your parts to go to the same spot they came from - use a cardboard box with holes or whatever. Don't let junk get where it doesn't belong! Paper towels can prevent losing a bolt or washer down the wrong hole!

Be gentle but clean gasket surfaces well. Be VERY careful of alloys as a good sharp gasket scraper can dig into that metal. Use the solvents for gasket removal can help but not a total solution if you have a nasty one - they can still be work.

Short of torches and you can't use those on everything I find PB (Power Blaster) as good of a penetrating oil as there is for sticky or corroded parts. Let it sit and try not to break any studs or bolts. Rushing doesn't pay off,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - those #s are all over the place. Do you recall what plugs on the three lowest looked like in comparison to the highest since they are all new? Test is generally done with warm engine when possible, all plugs out, throttle held at least part open, written observations which you did, and again with just a squirt of oil to see if and how much different that makes. With (just a small squirt) pressures would all go up. You count the fourth compression stroke # not the first - if memory (go easy now) serves me.

You would like to see all within about 10% of each other which that isn't. For now it's inconclusive to me as the engine runs and those #s are low enough to cause combustion problems.

Back: When pressure testing cooling system you mentioned you could smell gas (gasoline - right?) when you relieved the pressure. Can't say exactly what style pressure testers do to relieve pressure but it radiator was full, and pressure cap is on radiator it would have gushed just liquid out or there was abundant gaseous (non liquid) in the cooling system. It could hold even the 28lbs (never allow that high on a cooling system again please) as that's diddle low pressure compared to combustion pressures of a running engine. Some head gasket failures will not leak out to ground or burn coolant or mess up the oil but can put combustion pressure into cooling system which behaves like plain air for cooling purposes and the pressure cap would constantly be venting off any pressure over its rating.

Side notes: Heat rises and so does air/vapor in a liquid. Air doesn't cool a "water cooled" engine nor throws heat in a heater which is really just a mini radiator. It's "caloric" value (air) isn't much compared to coolant/water. DON'T TRY THIS BUT NOTICE THAT A HOT SHOWER FOR EXAMPLE CAN BE 110F DEGREES. 110F AIR IS HOT BUT YOU CAN RUN THRU IT. AN OVEN CAN BE WAY UP THERE WHEN YOU REACH IN 200-300 OR MORE AND YOU DON'T GET BURNED IF QUICK. WATER AT 140F FEELS AND CAN BE SCALDING NEVER MIND ENGINE COOLANT TEMPS NORMALLY NEAR 200ISH! This is about the caloric ability of heat exchange. Vapor is slight and liquid greater.

What I mean to express is that the heads are high on engine and would be hotter than the oil pan for instance. The combustion is glowing hot - rough guess 6-8 hundred degrees! More perhaps. I really don't know what Chrysler did for heads on this but many started using alloys like aluminum which has a lower caloric value than cast iron and expansion and contraction rates are different which is a stress for gaskets in normal conditions and a real problem with overheats.

All this adds up to high likelihood of failed head gasket(s) but you do want to be sure as it's a big job. Heads or even block (less likely but possible) can crack or warp which is why we suggest sending heads out and you still would inspect block as best you can. Ask machine shop for their ideas on verifying block trueness and lack of cracks.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You can get test strips or a kit to test for combustion gasses in the vapor of cooling system. Ask a real parts store what they have available. Again - it would stink to be wrong with the diagnosis so use all means to verify it before digging in. This is mostly labor intensive but with new oil, coolant, some hoses maybe or all, it can add up parts too.

Check, check, check and get pro advice if needed would be $ well spent. You really can't know exact condition of heads till off but know as much as possible while intact. Don't know my Mopars that well so intake manifold could be and should be checked too if you determine this is going to get the full gasket job,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That couple extra miles on the Interstate was pretty costly IMO. System needs be filled. Run a few minutes till level drops when thermostat opens if it will and level will drop when air is let out to radiator. Next fill it should become more stable but will still have air to purge out over a few warm up/ cool down cycles.

Seems it got so hot it probably did blow head/intake gaskets and now you are getting combustion gasses in cooling system. A/C staying on AND making condensate if so when heat and only heat requested isn't right. Are you sure it isn't set to "mix" of heat and defrost? If it was A/C would cycle but not stay on. That's now a separate problem.


Water on floor. Yes - that suggests a heater core leaking or necks are broken/cracked where hoses go thru firewall. Necks or the core itself would still need the core but I doubt that will be the fix for this.

That overheat probably caused wild damage along with tossing parts at it that shouldn't have had a thing to do with a crack in radiator tank to begin with.

Pressure test the system. Check for combustion gasses in radiator and or recovery tank. I think it's going to need head and intake gaskets, the heater core probably is leaking.

It's an open book now. In refilling the thermostat if normal would lock air in the engine side until warm (not piping hot) enough to open. Upper hose would feel warmth as an indication (caution as it could be VERY hot) then shut it down. Fill as needed when COOL and repeat. Constant or if bubbles seen right away the gaskets are high on the list.

Got a lot of work and testing to do,

T

Response From alienshadow

I am no mechanic and my comment may get deleted.. But are you sure the T-Stat isnt a bad one? I know on my chevy I had over heat issues when all was said and done it was a bad brand new T-Stat.. Guy told me 1 in 5 are bad.. Just trying to help hope you get it fixed and I sure hope its not the head gasket..

Dodge Ram Keeps Exploding

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gene on Dodge Ram Keeps Exploding

Hi - this is my first post. I've been to three mechanics and have paid $$$ so maybe someone here has some insight? 2002 4.7L Dodge Ram SLT1500 w/100k miles seems to have an unhealthy buildup of pressure in the radiator system at high speeds. Hoses have blown, radiator has been replaced, coolant bubbles out of newly-replaced reservoir and radiator cap. Thermostat has been replaced twice. Nobody can point to the problem, they just want to replace the parts that fail. Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

All cooling systems build pressure. The pressure is maintained at a constant level through the cap. If you were building excess pressure, it would be spilling out of the cap. If you have hoses bursting, the hose was bad in the first place. Now, if you are getting hot air building in the cooling system and displacing coolant, that would be different. That would indicate a likely blown head gasket.

dodge ram overheats

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Question From zxvtrp on dodge ram overheats

My 1983 dodge ram 318 cu in engine overheats after driving about 20 minutes. I notice the top radiator hose very tight like thermostat stuck. I removed it and it did it again. So I replace radiator cap and still the top hose gets very tight when I notice overheating. I installed new radiator a couple of years ago and put on new water pump about a year ago, so I don't think the radiator is plugged. Could my engine jacket be plugged?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

When you say the radiator hose get very tight I'm guessing you mean with pressure. If it pressurizes very quickly from cold it may be from a head gasket leak putting gasses into the cooling system. Top rad hose should stay cool till thermostat opens and will be too hot to hold and you will feel the air from the fan warm up. If that's not happening coolant can't flow.

Check that coolant is staying full at radiator cap and reservoir,

T