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CarJunky AutoAdvice

Paint bubbling / cracking, how do I repair?

Showing 8 out of 12 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From simonprosser on Paint bubbling / cracking, how do I repair?

Hi everyone,

I'm after some help with my car. On the roof the car seems to be cracking and detach from the roof. I would like to know how I can fix problem so that the problem doesn't get worse (so it's protected from rust etc), it doesn't need to look great but just be functional. Details:
- No water is leaking to the inside of the car.
- There is rust on the metal under the paint.
- I just bought the car so I don't know how the problem started.
- I've been to an auto shop here in Japan but was told that it couldn't be fixed with paint/primer, but I'm not really sure on that as there was a lot of communication difficulties.
- As you can see from the close up pic the paint seems quite thick, is it only paint?


If it will help I can take some more photos. Please help me fix the roof!

Thanks in advance!

Response From Hammer Time

WOW! You have a serious issue there.

It looks to me that someone previously did some very poor body work and there is a layer of body filler there that water was able to get under and rusted the metal between the filler and the roof. That is going to be very expensive to fix. All that filler has to be stripped off and the metal treated to remove all the rust before refilling and painting it. Probably not worth the cost.

Response From simonprosser

Hey guys,

Thanks for the information. I have some more questions...
- What is the body filler (the purpose)? (I've done some googling and don't really understand it)
- Is it possible to fix by yourself?
- Is there anything I can do to slow it down? I was thinking put some gaffa tape over to keep the water out, or possibly stripping it all off past the problem area and seal it with something strong.
- If left untreated how bad can it get in how long?
- You mention very expensive, roughly how much are we talking about?

I really would like to know how I am able to do something about this myself in slow it down or stop it.


Response From Hammer Time

It's a putty that hardens that is used to repair dents and get a smooth finish again after sanding it. Inexperienced people over use it. I think the 3 stooges did that one.

Response From Discretesignals

Your just seeing the outside. What is going on inside is going to determine if you can neutralize the oxidation or if you have to cut out the rust and add patch paneling.

If let untreated, the rust will eventually eat out the rest of the sheet metal and you'll have a sun roof. You'll probably have to remove the headliner and see how bad the rust is on the other side.

Response From simonprosser

ok so I think I understand the problem a little better now. They used the filler to fix a dent but didn't do it properly and the russt is slowing moving out from the point they didn't fix?. To fix I first need to remove the headliner and check if it's gone through. If it has I need to get a panel and patch it (get it welded?) and if not I should be able to sand all thee paint off and prime and then paint it? (this will leave the original dent they tried to fix though?).

Is this correct? Sorry for all the questions but I'd reallly like to solve this problem and if not at least apply a quick fix to slow it down. We leave for a 3 week road trip tomorrow so wont be able to fix it until we get back, so if there's something simple like covering with tape to keep excess rain out (or another temp solution) then I'd really like to know about it!

thanks for all your help so far guys....

Response From Hammer Time

There is nothing simple about this at all. It is a major repair to start with if they hadn't touched it but now cleaning up everything they did will make this a large undertaking and not something for a DIYer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I just couldn't get the original pics to show but clearly get the idea of what has happened. How roof was damaged isn't the point right now but the lousy repair or attempt just made it harder and would have been difficult if only some hail damage.

In my attempt to see what this vehicle should look like came up with this...........

NOT my trade but I dare say we all have worked with the trade or had things repaired ourselves for our own. That and combination work like body shop does their part, mechanical items go to mechanical shops and so on. That or vehicles are "salvaged" for parts that are still good for use on another!

Roof near always isn't just to keep the rain out. It is part of the strength of the vehicle as a unit. Just filling in cosmetic flaws even those that remain from proper repair should be just for final finish to look its best. If unseen supports are damaged the strength is compromised.

The original proper fix would probably have been a whole roof exceeding the value of the vehicle. That is a high difficulty job for the shops that do this to make every seam be strong and in position.

IMO if you are planning on a long future you not only need an auto body shop but one that is real good at this type work. It probably isn't just the rust you see now or filler being rejected but in need of very extensive work to make it sound never mind look well again.

Late now but when buying a used vehicle have them checked out before the purchase professionally so you can decide on buying that one or looking for another based on what is found in need with an idea of how much to make it right. Even then surprises can and will come up,


Response From simonprosser Top Rated Answer

Thanks Tom,

That's the car. So fixing it is out of the question, we would be happy to spend up to 1000 but no more, I guess we should get some quotes. We are leaving for a road trip today, do you guys know of anything that might slow down the speed that it will oxidise? possibly to cover it so less water will get in?

Response From Hammer Time

You should be able to get that resolved for well under $1,000

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rust (oxidation) has to be killed or 100% removed or will come back. Trapped under paint or anything it will just push it off. Trouble is completely replacing metal is frequently cost prohibitive.

Best of products just slow it down. Scary example of a famous paint made to stop rust.................


Response From Discretesignals

Damn cheese cake factory did that repair.

Motor mount on Daihatsu Charade

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Theracay on Motor mount on Daihatsu Charade


I think I need to take off one of my car's motor mounts to get to something that it's blocking.
Just wanting to confirm whether it is indeed the motor mount or not.
Also, to take it off, do I just get a slab of wood and put it on my trolley jack and gently prop up the engine at the oil sump?
I don't need jack stands do I?

The details of my car are:

Charade G200
1300cc HC-E engine.
5-door hatchback.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Yes, that is an engine mount. Yes, you should use a block of wood and floor jack to support the engine when you remove the engine mount. You shouldn't need jack stands unless you can't get the floor jack underneath the vehicle.

1989 Daihatsu Charade stopped spark, no ignition

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From rsplinter on 1989 Daihatsu Charade stopped spark, no ignition

Model year: 1989
Vehicle: Daihatsu Charade
Mileage: 345000
Engine 3 cylinder 1 Liter

My car has lost its spark.
The starter motor will crank but I measure no spark with a timing light, not on main cable from coil nor on spark-plugs
Replaced the ignition coil with no effect.
Checked the fuses and relays I am aware of and all seem good.
Maybe I am overlooking a fuseable link?

I am holding off on buying a new igniter, $250 and currently unemployed.

The car started running rough shortly before, only during idle, but was still getting 45 mi/g

I need my car to look for work and am in desperate need of assistance on troubleshooting.

Thank you kindly in advance

Response From Discretesignals

When you crank the engine is the distributor rotor rotating?

Response From rsplinter

The rotor in the distributor does rotate when cracking the engine, yes

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The ignition system on your vehicle is pretty much the same set up you would see on a Toyota 4AFE, except your igniter and coil is separate from the distributor.

There are two sensors inside the distributor, one called NE and the other G, that send crankshaft position signals to the engine control unit. The engine control unit (ECU) signals, on the IGT circuit, for the igniter to fire the coil when it recieves the signals from the NE and G sensors. When the coil fires, a signal called IGF is sent back to the ECU from the igniter to tell the ECU that the igniter has fired the coil.

One easy thing you can do to eliminate the coil and igniter is to do a bypass test. You need an incandescent (not LED) 12 volt test light.

Basically what you are doing with the test light is creating a signal on the IGT circuit to tell the igniter to fire the coil. If the coil fires, when you simulate the signal using your 12 volt test lamp, that means the igniter has power and ground, the igniter is functioning, and the coil is good.

Watch vid to perform bypass test:

This is what it looks like on an oscilloscope with the engine running

The blue trace is the G sensor signal
The red trace is the NE signal
The green trace is the IGT signal from the ECU to the igniter
The yellow trace is the confirmation signal from the igniter back to the ECU to say it has fired the coilhttp://autoforums.carjunky.com/upload/signal.jpg

Response From rsplinter

the described test to the IGT produces a spark of the removed ignition cable to ground.
Good so far
What can I try next please?


Response From rsplinter

My quest appears to have no solution just yet,

It took me three weeks to find someone to let me charge my battery to test the IGC bridge for spark.
I do get a spark, but I still do not know what can be the cause of the problem and have no car.

Public transport and walking is not an ideal solution and I appreciate any new dive for my diagnostic process.



Response From rsplinter

Thank you,

Just to clarify, I only have the 'instantaneous' spark when I apply the "bridge" with the wire and lamp from the "ignitor/coil" to the battery as outlined in the video; not when I turn the ignition key.
I don't know if that changes the diagnostic scenario from your suggestion, but I feel hopeless on this and time is wearing me down.

Much obliged,


Response From Discretesignals

He stated he has spark by performing the igniter bypass test, but no spark during cranking. You need to see if you have signals coming out of the distributor to the engine computer.

Response From rsplinter

Thank you kindly,
I will retrace the wiring diagram and see how I may check for communication between distributer and computer.
Maybe there is a shortcut to check this that I am not aware of

Daihatsu Hijet 660cc AT problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From neppra on Daihatsu Hijet 660cc AT problem

i ve Hijet 660cc 4WD 2009 Automatic transmission it shifts only upto 1,2 and 3rd gear and not further , i wanna know does it have only 3gears or is it problem in transmission shifting???????
Thanx in advance

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Sorry, don't have that vehicle here in the states. No service information available to answer your questions.