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Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 pontiac sunfire parking brake adjustment

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From joshisback711 on 2001 pontiac sunfire parking brake adjustment

2001 Pontiac Sunfire SE 4 Cylinder Automatic Transmission 160000 miles

I have taken out the middle console and traced the parking brake cable from the handle all the way to the back brakes with no luck finding the place to adjust them. I am wondering if I have completely looked over it or is there really no place to adjust the parking brake cable on this particular vehicle. Any help will be great, its really driving me up the wall that there is nothing about this on the internet that I have found thus far.

Response From Hammer Time

Be sure the rear brakes themselves are adjusted properly first.

Park Brake Adjustment

Notice: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to adjust the rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system.

  1. Fully apply and release the hand brake 4-6 times in order to self adjust.
  2. The parking brake (2) is self adjusting.

Response From joshisback711 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the help, makes me feel better that I wasnt looking it over.

1993 Pontiac G.A. SE Brake and signal light problem

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Brenda Holland on 1993 Pontiac G.A. SE Brake and signal light problem

I own a 1993 Pontiac Grand Am SE. No brake lights or signals. Replaced the brake switch. Have current going to the 2 prongs in the front small box on the switch but not the back 4 prongs located in the larger box..and after replacing it, lights and signals still don't work. Any ideas or help will be appreciated. part number is sls146 if that helps. Replaced the bulbs in the back..they all work...what else can be wrong????

Response From DanD

Do the front signals work?
Do the hazards work?
Do you hear the flasher unit for the turn signals clicking when you turn the signals on with the ignition in the run position?
Have you checked the brake/hazards and the turn signal fuses; you’ll find both in the dash fuse panel they are 20 amp fuses.
The brake light switch has a few different functions but the only two wires you’re going to be concerned with for the brake lights are the orange and light blue wires.
The orange wire at the brake light switch should have power at all times, the Lt blue only while the brake pedal is applied.
This Lt blue wire also slices off and goes in different directions after the brake switch but again you’re only concerned that this power on the Lt blue wire is getting to the turn signal switch. You’ll find the connector for the turn signal switch at the base of the column tube just behind the dash board; it’ll be a flat connector about four inches long; likely clipped to the column tube. Make sure that the power on the LT blue wire gets too and through the connector.
While you’re at the signal connector, check that there is power at the purple wire with the ignition in the run position. If the flasher unit does click with the turn signal in either left or right turn position you should have pulsing power (flashing test light). With the turn signals off and the ignition on you should have constant power.
What I’m getting to is if you have these feeds from the purple and Lt blue going into the turn signal switch and nothing on the yellow (left turn/stop) or the Dr green (right turn/stop) leaving the switch then you have a bad turn signal switch. You’ll also find the yellow and green wires at the turn signal switch connector and at the back of the car at the light sockets.
Check for power on these wires using a test light connected to a known good ground.
Tell us what you find.

Response From Brenda Holland

Another question: Do you already have instructions written up to change the switch that is located in the steering column? Does the steering wheel have to come off? Or can this be done in a better manner? Do you have a diagram for that? I want to be all ready for Saturday when he does this..IF he has to after looking at the other list you sent.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

If it turns out to be the switch then yes you will have to pull the steering wheel to get at a couple of bolts that hold the column covers on. When I went and looked at the manual on how to do this job; I realized that this is a newer style of column and it won’t have that flat connector at the base of the column just the wiring harness itself. I was going by the wiring diagram when I explained the wire coloring. (Sorry) Test it the same way; just probe the wires them selves with the test light.
And as Tom has said; if this car has an air bag take a few minutes and learn how to disarm it or take the car in somewhere and have the switch replaced by someone who does know. If you accidentally light off the bag (which is easy to do) and it hits you, you won’t know what happened until they tell you in the hospital. Yes they are that dangerous if not handled properly!
You’ll also need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off of the steering shaft. On some of the older column’s you could get away with hitting the steering shaft to pop the wheel off. Don’t do that on this column there are a bunch of plastic rivets in there that will either break or become loose.
The cost of buying a puller (that you’ll likely only use this one time) may make taking the car in and having the job done for you a little less painful.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You made a point there Dan about the air bag. I think or thought all cars sold in the US or Canada required a driver's side air bag in model year 1993. Not sure now as that was close to the time -- anybody know? TIA, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi again,

There is a company that will give you a free demo called which should be a complete repair book for your car but does cost about $25. Isn't worth it if you are not going to do the work.

REMEMBER!! Messing with the steering column is messing with wiring to the air bag and all caution should be taken and the words of the day are............



Response From Brenda Holland

WOW!!! You are thorough!!! I can't wait to show my neighbor (the one doing the work) this tomorrow!!! This is more than I could have asked for. Thank you so much and I will let you know what happens..He may not get to this until this weekend! I'm astonished!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Dan is the diamond of the web with cars. I just hope if I'm near his shop and broken down in my own car I can find him.

This site has the most (I'm at a few) honest folks to help you and the least pests that invade sites which is why there are moderators, and the nicest guests or folks looking for info or products which are here, T and cat!

Response From Brenda Holland

I did not know that until now! I'll keep this place bookmarked forever!!! You people are the best! And I'll be back with an update too! Thanks again so much! I'm impressed and that takes lot! lol..have a great night!

Brakes 1994 pontiac Grand Am

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From shaun1968 on Brakes 1994 pontiac Grand Am

1994 Pontiac Grand Am, Drivers side front bake hangs up. Out side pad wearing down, will pull to the right. Just replaced both front calipers, brakes and rotors because brakes locked up and wore down to metal on metal. Step daughters car, my step son did all the work. I checked it and it is the left side that's wearing down. Will release if given time, can't see any problems with the brake lines. Any help ?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

If the calipers have been replaced, the last option is the rubber brake hose. They can break loose inside and cause a small one way check valve. It holds fluid on the back side of the flap when the caliper tries to retract and can cause lockup.

2002 pontiac sunfire

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From katie on 2002 pontiac sunfire

i just bought a 2002 pontiac sunfire and the day/light/bright lights work fine but none of the turn signals, hazards, or brake lights work, and it doesnt make a clicking sound when i try and use the signals or hazards, what could it be?

Response From Hammer Time

Probably a bad combination switch but the circuit needs to be tested following a wiring diagram.

Response From Tom Greenleaf automatic-reset, circuit-breaker-type switch used in directional signal and emergency signal circuits.


Both could be messed up by the one circuit breaker not resetting properly if there was a good reason?


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It has no lower brake lights Tom. That flasher isn't going to cause that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That was the "prize in the Cracker Jack" box version of AllData that said both were powered by a resettable breaker with no better info. I figured it was one of those that can get hot, cut off the flow, cool and work again and just didn't work again. Never saw one go bad but have heard them when a dead short was on that circuit?? If it's anything like what I'm thinking that wouldn't be the cause but the result,


Response From Hammer Time

That's a picture of a flasher. Neither the brake lights nor the turn signals are powered by a circuit breaker.
If the high mount, 3rd brake light works, then the brake light switch is powered.

would a bad combination switch affect the break lights?

Yes, it would but only the 2 lower lights and not the high mount as they pass through that switch to cancel brake lights for turn signals, which is exactly what you described.

Response From katie

would a bad combination switch affect the break lights?

1998 pontiac sunfire abs question

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From rob_1996_ford on 1998 pontiac sunfire abs question

the brakes don't work at all. I put new brake booster, master cyl, Abs unit. I can not get brake fluid out of the master cyl. i took abs unit off pumped brakes and no fluid came out of master cyl. with the master cyl off the plunger moves about 3inches out so it looks like it is workin if any one can help i would be very greatfull Thanks Rob...

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Rob; Seems that everyone has his feathers up in the air. Let's start over.
From what I've read, sounds like the master cylinder is the culprit. We need to start off with a bench bled master cylinder. If you have access to a pressure bleeder, that would help. But, it can be done without one. Are you familiar with 'bench' bleeding? Put the master in a vise to hold it firmly. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Using a phillips screw driver, push the piston in. Fluid will 'squirt' out the brake line holes. Hold your fingers over the holes when releasing the pressure on the piston. Do this over and over again until you no longer feel or hear air bubbles. (boy, I had no idea how hard this would be to try to explain. LOL) Once the master has been bled, reinstall it on the vehicle. Open the right rear brake bleeder and allow it to bleed, keeping the master cylinder full of fluid. Once you are convinced that no more air is coming out (this may take some time), move to the left rear. Do the same. Then, the right front, then the left front. With all of this said, I'm assuming that you are using a NEW master cylinder, not a rebuilt?
Also, when you said 'No brakes', I'm assuming that you mean that the pedal is going to the floor? I'll be happy to help as much as I can.

Response From Hammer Time

Maybe you didn't read the whole question to know what system he's dealing with. This system cannot be bench bled.
He has separated the unit, let the gears fly and doesn't know how to assemble it together properly.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Again, I should have read more thoroughly. Is it nap time, yet? Thanks, HT.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you ever changed one of these combination master's before?
Do you know how to time the gears?
Do you have a pressure bleeder available?

Response From rob_1996_ford

never changed one before didnot know bout timing one i do not have a pressure bleeder but i can go buy one. is there an easy way to time one. Thank you for your input..


Response From Hammer Time

Are you going to try open heart surgery next week?

Response From rob_1996_ford

Do you know how to time one? cuz i don't see any marks on the gears or any way to time it...... and there are electric motors how do you time an electric motor.

Response From Sidom

Rob I'm all for helping folks out with problems that is within their range of expertise. I don't want you to get offended but this one really seems to be out of your range just going off what I'm reading.

This isn't the hardest system to work on but also isn't the easiest. Just the fact that when you took the ABS unit of the master, heard the gears unwind and just reassembled it as is tells me you should really take this one in.........

The brake system is one area that needs to be perfect just due to the fact that your safety isn't the only thing you could be risking......

Response From rob_1996_ford

Well I think your judgement on what my expertise level is underated, because I am ASE certified for your information I replaced the entire abs unit and master cyl as a whole it came off a car that had good brakes. I didn't take it apart I left the electric motors entact. So I don't believe that it has much to do with that I was curious if it had something to do with the wiring? I don't know.

Response From rob_1996_ford

I thought this forum was to help people with there problems not to criticize them. That is not very professional. I don't know because I am a "moron" or so I'm told.....thanks for your help.... or lack of... have a good day....

Response From Sidom

I thought this forum was to help people with there problems not to criticize them. That is not very professional. I don't know because I am a "moron" or so I'm told.....thanks for your help.... or lack of... have a good day....

Well, I'm sorry you feel that way Rob. This forum is here to help people and no one called you a "moron"

Going off your post it really comes across as a DIYer who got in over his head. If you would have put a little more info into the post as to the whole problem you were having...i.e the original problem as to why are the parts replacement. The source of the "new"parts.... Dealer, aftermarket........wrecking yard.... You probably would have got a little better help.

Now you are contradicting yourself. Now you say you never had the unit apart but in your 1st post you say "i took abs unit off pumped brakes and no fluid came out of master cyl." Which one is it? You split the assemby or you didn't?

If you want to get help then give us as much info as possible. Reread your 1st post and you tell me if that sounds like it's from a tech or a DIYer? One side note you didn't even mention bench bleeding the master cyl.

Response From rob_1996_ford Top Rated Answer

I have two units the original i took apart the new one that i took off another 98 pontiac sunfire...

Response From Hammer Time

never changed one before didnot know bout timing one i do not have a pressure bleeder but i can go buy one. is there an easy way to time one. Thank you for your input.

I think that speaks for itself. Rip the sophisticated system all apart and then ask for help.

Response From Hammer Time

If your ASE certified, I'm throwing mine away. You have no clue what you got yourself into and I doubt anyone is going to waste time trying to figure out how much you messed up.