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Brakes and Rotars 2008 328i BMW

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From ntaylor on Brakes and Rotars 2008 328i BMW

I have 2008 328i BMW I had to have it towed to a shop bc it wasn't starting. It is starting now the shop is still trying to figure out what is wrong.
They called to and said i needed new brakes ASAP on the front and would have to replace the rotars too. They said that the rear could wait a month or two. If I did both the front and rear it would be $1200.00. If I do just the front then it would be $750. My question is are they being fair or ripping me off?
Any feedback would be helpful


Response From Hammer Time

Yep, sure sounds like they are.

Rotors are generally changed with pads on a BMW but the price sounds about double what it should be.

Response From ntaylor

Thanks I thought so but I know nothing about cars. I am blonde + hairstylist which = to most men thinking I am stupid! I appricate your feedback and will be calling around tomorrow. Thank God for the internet.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I am blonde + hairstylist which = to most men thinking I am stupid!

I don't think your stupid, especially when you have a pair of scissors in your hand.

oil service lights & brake reline light need to be shut off in my1987 bmw

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From vgv on oil service lights & brake reline light need to be shut off in my1987 bmw

1987 bmw 325 engine 2.7l service lights came on the work has been completed but the lights are still on. i called back they said they dont have the tool to do it ? the lights drive me nuts. anyone know how to reset them cheap?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Service brake lamp should of gone out when they replaced the wear sensor when doing the pads. If they just replaced the pads and didn't replace the sensor, you should replace the sensor also to get the light to go off. If they replaced the sensor and pads for those wheels, then they need to trouble shoot to find out why the light is staying on. Anytime you do a brake job on a Bimmer, you replace the wear sensor on which end your doing the brake job on.

The change oil light needs to be reset with a special tool that plugs into the diagnostic connector. You can buy them pretty cheap from the aftermarket.

Response From vgv

Thank you very much! I will let u know what happens. lots of work to do on this car.Ill be back.

1990 BMW 325i front brakes - wrong pads?

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From completelyhis on 1990 BMW 325i front brakes - wrong pads?

I'm doing the front brakes on my 1990 BMW 325i. The passenger side was wearing very unevenly (outer was gone, inner was barely used up) and the drivers' side was barely worn at all. The replacement pads look just like the ones that were on it, but they don't look at all like the ones on any youtube how videos or any images of pads when i search in online stores.

The calipers are "girling" (not sure that matters or not, the parts store didn't ask).

The pads in the back look identical to the ones in the videos/images i see online. What's going on? Did the people that i got the car from use the wrong pads, resulting in the bad wear? I'm so confused!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How many pistons does that caliper use? If two, and outside on one side of car on that axle is worn it's frozen. You should know how to check if it/they are free.

I can't speak for all the garbage on YouTube!
Use of words for wear vary from person to person? IDK what parts person meant. Girling? Maybe Grinding, Knurling or some other thought. If pads are rusty the friction lining may just have fallen off the metal backing plate?

If you wish to cheap out a brake job fine but make it safe please,


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Girling is the brand name of the caliper. I don't know if that is what you meant by the term "axle" but I suspect the slides for that caliper are frozen.

Response From completelyhis

girling is the brand of caliper. I guess BMW used a couple different types on that year. Caliper only has one piston. I did some more poking around and discovered that the caliper mount bolt on the passenger side doesn't moved very freely at all, so that's why the pads are wearing unevenly.

Still can't figure out how the new pads are supposed to be installed in the caliper

BMW 520i 1985

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on BMW 520i 1985


I have a question.

i'm planning to buy a old BMW but it has this clikking sound. Also the car has no acceleration. In idle gear it works perfectly and it starts also from the first key turn even after it has been standing for 2 years.

I'm thinking that it may be the camshaft what is done. Is it very hard to change that?

thank you and bye,
Martin for Estonia

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Camshaft didn't wear out sitting around and it is a very involved job as much is on a BMW.

It needs some solvent in the fuel and an oil change and let it run for a while - drive it some if you can and beware of the brakes at first,


Response From Guest

the old man said that the clikking sound has reached his ears as long as he remember.

And the breaks were woring just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What I was thinking about with the brakes was with a long rest, gun rust or worse on rotors and perhaps retraction of pistons over time can make them feel lousy for a few stops. Indoor storage should be much better and outdoors is a disaster for a 2 year rest for a car,


old BMW too much engine braking and excessive fuel consumption

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Question From precaution on old BMW too much engine braking and excessive fuel consumption

i have an old(fourth generation before 2005) and low performance BMW 316, 40 000 km (it has been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000 then i bought it,so everything rubbery is problematic if that will help) i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from naught to 60 :D , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on. do you have any ideas what could the problem be?

Response From Discretesignals

i feel like it burns more fuel then it should

I feel? How can you feel if your engine is burning more fuel than it should? What is the actual MPG?

Your comparing two different vehicles with two different designs in mind. Most engines will drop to zero rpm when they are turned off.

Response From precaution

well it shows 11.3 lt/100 km average and its a little too much in my country since the gas price is $12 per galon .. and you are right about the design thing but you have to believe me about the excessive engine braking. another thing concerns me is the cars transmission behavior, apparently i forgot to mention it before, its hard to change gears and it popped out of 1st gear when i tried to move off a few times, and you are right about the rpm dropping to zero :D lol but it looked too fast for me compared to some other cars ive driven.. i'll try turning off the engine with clutch disengaged next time to see if its only a transmission problem. thanks for your time

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You said this car sat for a while. Its a manual transmission to boot so I'm guessing the parking brake may have been left on for a long time while it sat. Check to see if it is partially stuck on. Sometimes the brakes seize up a bit when sitting for a while with the park brake applied. Had a vehicle like that when I got it out of storage had to take a hammer to the drums to free it up enough to even move. If the brake is partially applied still it will make it move like a slug and guzzle gas.