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2001 Mazda Protege Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-1C5DC61    W0133-1623088  New

Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2001 - Mazda Protege DX
Nippon Clutch
1989 Acura Legend Disc Brake Rotor Nippon Clutch

P311-585B74F    W0133-1623011  New

Nippon Clutch Disc Brake Rotor
  • Rear
Brand: Nippon Clutch
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
1989 - Acura Legend
Nippon Clutch
1990 Acura Legend Disc Brake Rotor Nippon Clutch

P311-585B74F    W0133-1623011  New

Nippon Clutch Disc Brake Rotor
Brand: Nippon Clutch
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
1990 - Acura Legend

Latest Brake Disc Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Hyundai Brake discs - worn on not worn... (pic included)...

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From fruitmousse on Hyundai Brake discs - worn on not worn... (pic included)...

Hi all,
just a quick question, the attached pictures are from my Hyundai. I recently took the car in for an MOT and it passed with no advisories. Couple weeks later I went to a different garage for a handbrake cable supplying/fitting. They told me both rear brake discs were worn and needed replacing. Just wondering what the general consensus is here as to the extent they actually needed replacing (i.e. definitely, maybe, not at all). It just confused me that it passed it's MOT two weeks prior.

Response From Hammer Time

Those rotors are severely rust pitted and yes, they would have to be replaced.

Response From Hammer Time

In the future could you please reduce the size of your pictures? It makes the whole thread hard to read.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

See this all the time in rusty New England.
Note the inside where pad or what's left of them isn't touching
entire rotor. That's a problem on top of just tossing rotors and pads
strongly suggesting you'll need calipers as well and might just as well do
flex hoses while spending the money for the full job.
MOT if brakes worked with their testing methods could either miss this
or they really worked well enough? Old, rusted where it really doesn't count, grooves if true you don't feel
and still work.

You just can't undo rust or add metal to refurbish rotors and some calipers, brackets can be too far gone as well.

Expect this to be costly but accidents are lots worse so it has to be done. Brakes this bad are subject to surprise lock ups or loss of braking power at all, all at once!


Question About Fiesta Brake Discs

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Nikki on Question About Fiesta Brake Discs

Year of vehicle - 2001
Make of vehicle - Ford
Model of vehicle - Fiesta

Hiya im new here and have a two questions.

1. I was driving today and heard a scraping noise when I was turning right at above 20mph. It seems to happen when I go round big roundabouts because you can go faster on them, haven't noticed it on the smaller ones. The noise seems to be coming for the left front side of the car. I've not had the car lowered or anything so I don't think its coming from the body work of the car.

2. After hearing the scraping noise I looked at the left side of the car and noticed a scrape all the way round the left brake disc(I've added a picture at the bottom). Had a look at the right brake disc and it looked fine. (Failed mot on brake discs January this year, Got them replaced.)

Question: Is this normal, im sure when it failed mot the mechanic said scraped brake disc's.(I am a girl and don't really know that much about cars, I know the basics). Anyway it could be nothing but any advice would be great.


Left (Scraped one)

Right (Normal one)

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

?? Are these pics of brakes that were new in January this year? The noise and groove suggests a flaw in the new brake pad, rotor may not have been machined or replaced, or perhaps debris like a small stone or something has lodged in between making both a noise and that mark.

Sorry about more questions than answers for the moment but some markings of the sort are normal over the life of brakes and usually don't impair their performance but should not be making noise. So what was it failed for? Was it just seeing that that failed it and all other aspects are fine?

To find the root of this I'd have the pads removed for close up inspection of the friction surface of the pad which can't be seen while installed which would likely explain why that mark is there and probably the source of the noise.

How many miles are on the brakes in the pictures from known good? The noise concerns me more than the appearance of those rotors with part worn brakes at the moment,


Response From Nikki

Hi thank you for replying. Yes they were replaced January 2008, only done about 3k on them. That car failed for brake disc's and suspension (bush's?).

Do you think it would fail the mot next year again with those brake disc's?

Again thank you for replying.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This suggests it passes this MOT (is that Ministry of Transportation?) ((a term not used where I live?)) test the way they are now?

Again it's noise that is of interest if all else is safe. The pad material is frequently made impregnated with metal then called "metalic" brake pads and they do vary some as to how they will wear into a rotor over their life. The noise isn't pleasing and could indicate a flaw such that only removing the pad and looking as said would show what's up with that.

What the lining material is, is heat tolerant and has a friction quality of course and being quiet about all this is a common issue for ions now even when all is perfect. In the process of making these pads (not my biz) it appears they start with a mix of the products then pressed and dried or cured somehow into the shape needed with a mix of real metal filings of assorted metals which are heat resistant and what's called "fade" resistant(a quality that allows friction to be maintained while they get hot in hard braking) which is harder on rotors then what is now old fashioned just plain asbestos linings. The finished friction lining is then bonded (glue) to a metal plate or some are brass rivoted to the metal backing plate of the pad. Either way is fine but when let go too low the brass rivots will make marks on a rotor (or drum in drum brakes) before the lining material is finished and the brake is then down to a "metal to metal" situation which quickly makes destructive marks on rotors and about always reders them in need of replacement instead of possible "resurfacing" which is loosing popularity anyway as the original metal thickness or rotors isn't so much that they tolerate much loss to refinish and costs vs labor get close so replacements are more practical and longer lasting.

What I'm saying is I'm not pleased with the noise but it may not be a safety issue at all but might only be corrected by redoing this brake job with another brand of parts. The web is great but this is one I'd have all apart to finalize a suggestion and can only guess even with your great pics and explaination.

I've installed all new parts on some vehicles and about a month later noise is an issue. As the mechanic who chose the parts it becomes my unpaid responsibilty to get to the end of that which sometimes results in returning parts for another brand NC to me but i have to do this and not using that brand again or there are some ways to clean and quiet noisy disc brakes to some degree. There's no tolerance for safety of function issue - ever!

Not where I live yet but some places check the vehicle on a machine that detects the even braking properties of each wheel without having to look at them. This gets confused as there shouldn't be a difference left to right side but in certain conditions front and back brakes would apply different forces so I not a great fan of that test for rejecting a car and close inspection and on road performance is my choice to determine the overall operation quality. If on side grabs harder than the other it neal always would make the car pull to one side or another and would warrant a total check of brakes.
Speaking for myself and no doubt some other regulars here making suggestions and giving advice on brakes with unknown skills of guests and the shops you may be dealing with is very tricky at best and this being a primary safety issue should always default to "take suggestions and advice AYOR" and seek hands on professionals when there is any possible mistunderstanding of confusion about whatever we may discuss. It's a great thing to bring questions and even get some real answers by several real live techs right here. Obviously none of us at right there, looking at, hearing, feeling and driving the vehicles so the best we can do is suggest and share things that we've noticed over years of hands on work and can share some of the problems that cropped up even when everying was done right.

If ever worried about an issue involving safety please don't wait for a web site to solve a problem and get immediate hands on help,


Response From Nikki

Thank you for all the information I really appreciate it. Sorry about the MOT thing, it just means the car has to pass all safety tests and tyres every year to be able to be driven on the road.

Im going to get my uncle to have a look at the brakes for me soon. I'll post to let you all know what he says.

Thanks again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - cool. Here it's just called an inspection sticker issued by the state. Not passing any safety item whatsoever means the car isn't legal to drive out of the place even! They do a grace period for certain levels of emission failures for time to bring them up to par.

I get the drift of what these inspections are but can't know the impact to you exactly. For what I see with your brakes I wouldn't be happy to say it's illegal to drive it quite so fast,


Tools - Torx Bit

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From daytimedaddy on Tools - Torx Bit

Hi, I need to change the front brake discs on a Citroen Picasso, 1.8 petrol engine, year of registration 2002. Can anyone advise on the size of the Torx Bit to fit the brake caliper bolts please?

Thanks for your time



Response From Sidom

I'm not familar with this model but I believe it takes a T-30 bit..........

Response From daytimedaddy Top Rated Answer

Thanks for that

Humming noise

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From king2807 on Humming noise

I have a 2001 Renault laguna dci and i have humming coming from the front .I have changed the front bearings, drop links, bull joints and driveshaft gaiters but the humming is still there .Anyone got any ideas ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Doesn't matter but that car is not sold where most regular techs here are. They make a mechanic's stethoscope that may help isolate the exact item or items making noise which would help in not wasting money on replacing items that were not the cause,


Response From king2807

The specialist over here reckons it is the brakes but i know it can not be

Response From Hammer Time

The specialist over here reckons it is the brakes but i know it can not be

So, why don't you just get a second opinion?

Response From king2807 Top Rated Answer

I have not had chance yet the brake discs and pads are new.The noise is when i am driving only.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Does this noise only happen while moving? If brakes most will change the sound when using them. May have to remove them for a real look if so. Brake noises are also speed related and would change the noise depending on speed.

Pretty much I can't think of a brake noise if sitting still if so,