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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Wiper Blade Refills

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Genuine
1993 Mercedes-Benz 600SEL Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine

P311-153BE9F    W0133-1632464  New

Qty:
$20.30
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • 1 per package. Replacement insert with plastic retaining strip.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mercedes-Benz 600SEL
Genuine
2006 Acura MDX Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - for OE blade only

P311-4877153    W0133-1838477  New

Qty:
$27.29
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • This is the rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade/arm assembly. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the existing wiper blade/arm assembly.
  • Rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade ONLY. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly.
  • for OE blade only
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Acura MDX
Genuine
2014 Acura TL Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - for OE blade only

P311-4877153    W0133-1838477  New

Qty:
$27.29
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • Rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade ONLY. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly.
  • for OE blade only
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Acura TL
Genuine
1993 Mercedes-Benz 600SEL Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine

P311-0616DE3    W0133-1635194  New

Qty:
$21.07
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • 1 per package. Replacement insert with plastic retaining strip.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mercedes-Benz 600SEL
Genuine
2012 Honda Crosstour Windshield Wiper Blade Refill 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-1428DE5    W0133-1964639  New

Qty:
$26.78
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • Rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade ONLY. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Honda Crosstour L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Genuine
2011 Honda Accord Windshield Wiper Blade Refill 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-1428DE5    W0133-1964639  New

Qty:
$26.78
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • 475mm
  • Rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade ONLY. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Honda Accord EX Sedan L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Genuine
2014 Honda CR-V Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - for OE blade only

P311-5A278D8    W0133-1964856  New

Qty:
$26.05
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • Rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade ONLY. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly.
  • for OE blade only
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Honda CR-V
Genuine
2012 Toyota Prius Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - Rubber only/no rails

P311-47A97F8    W0133-1985782  New

Qty:
$40.04
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • This is the rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade only. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly. For those who prefer a simpler alternative, we also offer the complete blade assembly from Bosch or NWB at slight additional cost.
  • Rubber only/no rails
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Toyota Prius
Genuine
2014 Lexus RX350 Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - Rubber only/no rails

P311-47A97F8    W0133-1985782  New

Qty:
$40.04
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • Exc.Japan Built
  • This is the rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade only. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly. For those who prefer a simpler alternative, we also offer the complete blade assembly from Bosch or NWB at slight additional cost.
  • Rubber only/no rails
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Lexus RX350
Genuine
2014 Lexus RX350 Windshield Wiper Blade Refill Genuine - Rubber only/no rails

P311-47A97F8    W0133-1985782  New

Qty:
$40.04
Genuine Windshield Wiper Blade Refill
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blade Refill
  • Japan Built
  • This is the rubber wiping element for the OE wiper blade only. The metal tension strips will need to be removed from the old insert and correctly aligned in the new insert before it can be installed on the old wiper blade assembly. For those who prefer a simpler alternative, we also offer the complete blade assembly from Bosch or NWB at slight additional cost.
  • Rubber only/no rails
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Lexus RX350

Latest Wiper Blade Refill Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4

Showing 2 out of 90 Posts | Show 88 Hidden Posts
Question From alienshadow on 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4

Hey guys can anyone here guide me on what part numbers I would need to replace my A/C/ Compressor and dryer.. I will try to describe hookups on compressor.. Looks like all lines go into the back of it. It looks short and stubby right on top of the engine to the left... I also need the dryer part number. I think my lines are okay.. Clutch keeps locking up and I am told for the money mine as well replace go figure.. Thanks for any help.. Aftermarket part brands will be good for me because they may be cheaper...

Response From re-tired

Your best bet is a local parts house . You may pay a few dollars more ,but they will be there for warranty and product support. I have seen hundreds yes hundreds (a/c is quite popular in FLA) of very short life installs of no name white box units . Do you have the proper equipment leak detector , vac pump ,orifice tube puller, they dont always fall out . set of gages are you converting from r12 . you will need to replace seals and flush . Just dont want you to throw money away.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien,

You need to know a lot more and it could mean a new condenser, "O" tube and full flush if compressor seized. Did clutch lock up and wont return to idle or is compressor locked up with belt screeching over that pulley?

Both 134a or some R-12 versions s RT mentioned were sold in 1993 models and you need to know which was or is original AND what other parts are original. Look for factory label on accumulator/drier or elsewhere if still there or any markings for history on this. The OE compressor was known for failures so chances of still being R-12 now are slim. Changes the approach if retrofitted.

If anyone has used a "Death Kit" (a nick name for the junk in a can to fix all) like sold in department stores and real parts stores it would have to be removed or all warranties would be voided!

Are you sure you are really up to this job. Much equipment is rent-able but still takes lots of know how or it will fail fast or not work at all and be out the $ already invested,

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom,
Clutch just locks up and will release.. I am not sure about junk in a can? I also know I had it converted to R134 last summer by my mechanic...I wont be doing the install.. I am just buying the parts with warranty.. Mechanic will do a complete flush and do a vac on the lones I guess? Also he said besides the compressor and dryer he thought all other parts were good to go...Hes been doing mechanical work for 30 plus yrs I guess he knows more than me lol....Let me know also pulley does not make a loud noise...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Kewl beans buddy! What the mechanic will want to know is EVERYTHING you can tell for a history on the thing. There's no dipstick for oil level that's in it now so even saying you have no clue is good info for him/her.

Also - IMPORTANT - disconnect the plug from the clutch while cool and all things off. Tie it away to a safe spot so clutch/compressor won't even try to work as it's just causing more problems now. Tell the mechanic you did that as it could even snap the belt if you don't.

I suggest you write down the history and anything you noted and give it to them. Let them make the call on extent of suggested work. If there's no debris in outlet of compressor or if they check "O" tube (means orifice tube) that's all good news.

I know this cost bucks but it's worse doing it wrong only to do over! Click on "Heat or AC Issues" look for locked post saying in caps "CHARGING PROCEDURES............" and read that and you'll know there a turd load to know. That article is about as concise as can be done and doesn't take into account complications so it would be 10 times longer!

Note: MANY perfectly good shops and techs don't do A/C work as it's a lot of know how and equipment that where I live (MA) just gets stuffed in storage most of the time and isn't a great money maker taking all that space for the little it may be needed so shops just farm out that part a lot of the time.

You've made the right choice on this one IMO,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Kewl beans buddy!

That's right up there with "gnarly" and "groovy"..............LOL

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just another "Band out of Boston"



T

Response From alienshadow

Okay guys got my A/C fix.. It cost me 275.00 to get installed the parts cost me 199... Anyway I bought a rebuilt compressor and when the guy installed it he said if he would of knew that he wouldnt of put it on.. Its a Murray rebuilt with a 12 month warranty... From Oreilys auto parts... So I guess I am asking did I make a mistake buying a rebuilt???? Tell me it aint so...

Response From Hammer Time

With respect to failure likelyhood, on a scale of 1 to 10, if a new compressor is a 10, a reman is a 3. They don't hold up well at all, especially after the first one has failed and contaminated the system.

Response From alienshadow

Well Geeezzzzz Hammer.... I feel like I might of wasted my money.. I wonder why they sell them if the faliure is so high?? I bought a reman and if it dosent hold up I am out 275.00 just like that.. Good thing is the reman came with a 1 yr warranty.. I must say it is cooling great and the shop did do a complete flush and put a brand new switch on the accumulator.... I am not sure what you meant by the old one verses the new one if the system was complesty flushed out????

Response From Hammer Time

I'm afraid that's the track record on most of them. There are varying quality in Reman units too. Some are better than others. It can make a big difference if the guy installing it really knows what he is doing and takes all the right steps. Flushing is important if it was done right, the correct amount of oil was used and the oil was purged out of the compressor manually before engaging the clutch.
You also need to be sure you found the cause of the original failure and resolved that too. For example if the truck has a bad fan clutch that led to the first failure, the second will go even quicker. Not overcharging is important also.

I actually refuse to install a reman unless there is just nothing available on a new one and then I give just a 90 day warranty on it if I am forced to use one. I can usually see the difference right out of the box.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer not sure what they did.. He seemed to do everything correctly and the shop I took it to has a good reputation.. He will stand by his work but being I bought the stuff he wont stand by that which I totally understand.. Not sure what caused the first one to go but it was the original compressor that came from the factory..There was residue all over that compressor and clutch.. I am hoping that this reman will be okay...This is a 93 chevy and I was on a budget because I am trying to get my pool fixed to a new liner.. I guess I should of went ahead and bought a new one.. But what is done is done.. I just hope the guy at Oreilys didnt lie to me when he said they would reimburse me for labor cost to if the compressor fails...Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Labor? I'll believe that when i see it. Labor claims come from the manufacturers and none of them want to pay. It's like they don't want to open the flood gates. You have to face one fact. You have no warranty at all on that job. There is no way that any kind of failure won't be attributed to the parts.

I don't know what you have available around you but we buy new generic compressors for around the same price you paid for that one.

My cost on a brand new Delco for that truck is $193

Response From alienshadow

I am thinking positive thoughts.... Hopefully I wont have any issues thanks Hammer

Response From alienshadow

Hammer by the way I paid
120.00 for compressor with 1 yr warranty remanuf
34.00 for accumulator
1.99 Orfice
10.00 for the compressor oil..
36.00 for the accumulator switch
and labor was 275.00 which included the freon .... I feel I did okay.. Just wanted to clarify

Response From Hammer Time

That's a lot better than the $275 I thought you paid for the compressor

Response From alienshadow

Okay guys little input here A/C is cooling great.. I was just wondering if you could lead me in the right direction here.. When I cut the A/C off I hear a loud squeaky noise coming from the compressor.. I turn it on it goes away.. Tell me its normal?? Please dont tell me this reman is going bad fingers crossed here... Thanks..

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like either the clearnace between the plate and the pully is too narrow or the pulley bearing is bad. With the engine off, remove the belt and see if the pulley has any wobble to it.

Response From alienshadow

Will have to take it to the shop again geezzz.. Is this something that I can let ride?? And are you talking about the pulley underneath the compressor? I guess as long as its cooling the a/c unit is good correct? Thanks Hammer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't let this go. As HT said it's either gap too close which should have been noticed when just installed or when this or any compressor is off (outer plate not engaged) it's just a dumb pulley with a bearing like others. It's probably just a bad bearing which is inside of the clutch. Some are easy to replace and some more tricky. Part isn't expensive.

Did the compressor come with the clutch or was the old one used on this compressor? If old one was swapped then it leaves open the gap being too close by mistake but again that would have shown up right away. That air gap doesn't get smaller over time unless some debris is caught up in it somehow?

None the less it has to get fixed as I'm near certain you have just one belt on this and if that pulley goes you'll lose everything it drives,

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom the a/c compressor came with the clutch already on it... Guess I can take it back to the guy who installed it just to see what he says.. Probably wants more dough.... Also another note seems to be louder when first cut off then it settles down and you can barely hear it does that make since????

Response From Hammer Time

Also another note seems to be louder when first cut off then it settles down and you can barely hear it does that make since????

Yep, makes sense. The noise is 2 moving metals contacting each other. When the metal heats up and gets softer, it doesn't make as much noise but is still a problem.

Response From alienshadow

So are you thinking new a/c unit or just bearings?? If its just the bearings which I think it is listening to it ...how much do you think it that would cost to fix? I guess I need to make this a priority..

Response From nickwarner

The whole compressor wouldn't need changing, just the cheap little bearing in it. Went and popped the hood on my truck and the compressor is right there easy to get at so labor shouldn't be too bad

Response From Hammer Time

Except he just bought this compressor and I bet that pulley with bearing costs over half what that compressor costs and it will no linger be under warranty if he takes it apart.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer.. Oreilys told me in order for them to warranty the pulley I have to take the whole unit out go figure.. I think I will buy the 6.99 part and take my chances.. I am not looking to be red taped here lol...
Yes the A/C compressor is right on top if I had the tools and know how I would replace the bearing myself...
Also when I crank it up in the morning no noise.. even after warm up but when I cut the a/c on and shut off then the dang thing starts its mess confused in N.C. lol

Response From Hammer Time

Your not going to fix that car for $6.99.

First off, your going to have to pull the compressor off the car which means evacuate and recharge. You may think your going to do it on the car but when you start trying to access the snap rings that are way inside and you can't even see them, you'll realize it has to come off. Second, they are pricing you on the bearing alone. I really doubt you can get that old bearing out of the pulley and pressed back in without damaging the pulley. Now your looking at buying a whole clutch for over $100. Your also looking at special tools for pulling the clutch apart and pressing it back on. Your Reman compressor is going to be a complete can of worms and it has only just begun.
Right now your best bet is to take that compressor off and swap it for a new one. Then cross your finders that the 2nd one isn't worse.

Response From alienshadow

What the bearing in the pulley?? I was going to just get the pulley replaced the a/c is working fine... It dosent rattle while its engaged.. Only after its cut off..The Pulley is 24.99 ..mechanic shop 65 an hour... your comments priceless...

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know where you live but all those prices sound low. Nobody with any knowledge or equipment works for $65 an hour around here. Most are well over $80 and $90. The clutch parts are rarely sold separately. Your numbers make it sound good but I'm a bit pessimistic on the whole thing. Once you start messing with that compressor, you own it.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer I am going to go ahead and have it replaced as you say do.. Its under warranty But I will ask for a brand new one if not I will pay the differance... I agree with what you say.. Hopefully Oreilys will help me along with the warranty claim and labor claim lucky for me I have all the paper work.. Wish I would of went new to start with but I didnt know any better.. I live in a small town in North Carolina.. Average mechanic shop starts at 55 to a 100 per hr depends on where you go.. I have a back yard mechanic who worked for chevy for 25 yrs.. He didnt do the a/c however he was bad off at the time... That was the price for the pulley..

Response From Hammer Time

I think your making the right move. Moving up to new should end your problems. Just remember that the Reman usually comes with oil in it and most of the new ones don't so you'll likely have to add some oil, depending how much comes out with the old compressor.

Response From alienshadow

I had to buy oil with the reman... I am guessing the mechanic will start from scratch.. Dye and all correct? Guess I will have to buy a new dryer also..

Response From Hammer Time

No, I wouldn't buy a dryer. The one you just put on is fine. Just don't leave the system open too long, especially in wet weather. Capping the hoses will help keep the moisture out. Just give it a good vacuum before charging.
You won't need more dye either. That is still in there.

Response From alienshadow

I did not realize you could just swap one out.. Maybe that way it will be cheaper.. I will need more fron correct?

Response From Hammer Time

Not if you use a recovery machine to capture it and put it back in. It's reusable.

Response From alienshadow

I will ask them... I dont understand why they sell reman units if the failure is so bad.... Like you said I could of got a new one for about 50 bucks more.. I cant go back in time.. Funny thing is the shop that put it in for me told me afterwards.. He said is that a reman I said yes he said it wont last long.. Now why didnt he call me and say hey take it back and get a new one... On top of it I cant find the receipt from the shop I hope they have a copy.. Just my luck...


Off subject here but where can I post my Harley I have for sale on this site??

Response From Hammer Time

One thing you will find about this world. They will sell anything that they can convince someone to buy. It really doesn't matter if it works or has any value at all. If someone will buy it, they will continue to sell it. You are seeing a trend though that more and more parts stores are not carrying Remans any more. they are sick of the problems too. There are some companies that make better ones than the average but they still don't compare to new.
As far as your bike, this is more of a discussion forum. They don't really have a "for sale" section. You could probably get away with posting it in the "Bargain Bin" category but that is more of a parts category. We delete any advertising links that are posted in the discussion forums.

Response From alienshadow

Thanks Hammer for helping me out today.. Yeah I dont want to get banned from here.. nI have it on CL but no luck yet... Will let you know what happens Monday.. I guess its okay to drive..until then

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien and HT,

I don't have the exacting details for advertising but a one time place to sell something is here called the "Bargain Bin" which as far as I know is fine to post your Harley. If you were putting it all over the site you would need approval from ownership. The side ads you do see are paid for allowing this site to be free to use.

Site is not here for widespread ads, links to other sites, spam and stuff like that. Until told otherwise I believe that spot is fine to sell your Harley.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Back to the A/C:

Alien - can you talk to "O'Reilly's (wasn't that the source for compressor?) and see if you can get full credit towards the new compressor? By all rights the shop would want to get paid for the swap, some oil, O rings are cheap, and the time to recover, vac and charge up again.

Side note on rebuilt parts: There really isn't a great reason why it can't be done and with high dependability. Trouble is like anything else is the re-builders too often rely on too many used parts or cheap new parts in the item they rebuild. Paint is cheap and they look great in the box. They shouldn't have but probably did re-use the clutch on the unit you got. It may have been the problem from the person who replaced it to begin with.

Here - some places want a "core" even with new parts! They don't get the clutch back as I want it if good (some are) and they next person should get a new one with a rebuilt IMO along with it's new bearing.

Speaking of bearings: The best used to be made in USA, Canada which lost ground to super cheap Chinese bearing makers. Not here to bash Chinese parts as they also can make some of the best but also make some of the cheapest junk. Nobody wins when a part fails. A parts retailer should be wise to that and stop carrying a line if too many come back. The bummer with a compressor is a bad part if it fails by seizing up can trash more items really messing up any bargains.

Hope you can work something out between parts outlet and the shop to get this straightened out. At some point you'll have to do something or the belt won't stay on - never mind cool air!

T

Response From alienshadow

Okay guys took the truck to the shop and the guy said it was nothing.. He said it was the clutch plate rubbing a little and that if adjusted it would work itself right back to that same spot...Didnt believe him got a 2nd opinion and told the same thing.. So I guess I will let it ride and see what happens.. Any input would be great... I guess things like this happen I was also told this style compressor was nosiey anyway...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't agree with either of them right now. If they thought the gap was too close and was the cause of the noise then it probably would wear itself larger over time and go away not get closer over time. That unless there's something wrong with the clutch overall, bent, spring(s) not working (those work by hand if pushed) none of which is common to a new clutch. Clutch alone for an R4 compressor which this probably is and they are noisier (a busy sound not out of control) than some others is around $100 +/-.

Does this wobble at all on or off? If you spray water on the belt does that change the noise? Is belt flopping around - usually that would be when engaged with the load if so. Is the belt on right? Check that its exactly in place on each pulley. Count the grooves in the clutch and another pulley - do they match? Is the belt in a near perfect plane as seen from side? There's a lot that could be obvious to us that doesn't come to mind as we aren't there. I'll see if I can post belt routing diagram below as seen from front. From side it really shouldn't deviate much over the width of the belt!

T

7-8 is without 120 amp alternator

7-14 is with 120 amp alternator.
CS = Crankshaft as seen thru grille should be routed like this....This could be wrong but so far so good with that place that has the diagrams

Response From alienshadow

If they thought the gap was too close and was the cause of the noise then it probably would wear itself larger over time and go away not get closer over time..

Tom that is what they told me sorry I wrote it wrong... As for the belt its new and I just looked at ity it looks just like the pic.. I can hold the plate down on the clutch and thats definately where the noise ic coming from... I am glad its not a bearing and Oreilys said they would replace the compressor but in the end the labor claim would not be accepted because it has no issues at the moment...

Side note why come when I am driving and I slow down I hear a whining noise sonds like the plates maybe on the trans.. But I only hear it when the a/c is on when off I do not hear it.. I was told this was normal for this model truck and trans and all... Geeezz wish I was close to you guys I would bring it on over lol...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All things normal the gap would get larger not smaller unless it stuck, was rusted or debris was preventing it from retracting. Somewhere around 100 to 150,000 miles of use here (low on A/C use as it goes) I find the gap worn so large that they can't pull in to engage with the strengh of the magnetic pulling action of the coil hidden behind it. When that happens you just adjust it closer and off the person goes with working A/C again. The "too wide" gap starts slow and is usually intermittent at first. Side note: Many compressors in New England cars last the life of the car or last long enough that as a used car it isn't worth the repair anymore. They sell A/C by-pass pulleys for those vehicles that must have a pulley in that spot - others you just ask for the belt as if it didn't have A/C to begin with.

Saying it get tighter with time and wear is like your tires get more tread with use!

One thing you could do as a test and no harm - might even cure it. The product called "BraKleen" for brake cleaner can be used to clean the gap area with a spray nozzle on can like carb cleaner has you would clean/spray in there all around and any greasy gunk or some metal filings may/will wash away. That's a brand name - any would do. YOU DON'T WANT BRAKE CLEANER ON THE RUBBER BELT! If you feel comfortable to guard the belt with something or are willing to take it plain off then YOU can determine what's wrong and clean that friction surface. Just the friction surface. If scared - try wetting a Q-Tip with the product and getting some in there and quick start up the compressor and off again it may get around but evaporates real fast.

Sorry this is causing such headache for you. So far you seem to be without definitive hands on help for what is not really that hard on a Chevy truck!

T

Brake cleaner is NOT rubber or paint friendly so watch where it goes if you try that or don't.

Response From alienshadow

Is the whinning noise I am hearing normal? I hear it while on the inside of the truck a/c engaged... Yeah you would think Chevy was any easy fix.. But around here they try to drain the pockets. Hard to find a mechanic who cares anymorre in these parts...They want 20 bucks just to drive it and listen I spent 40 this morning... I will try your advice and I will be extremely careful.. Would wd40 work??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WD-40 might make it quiet but also slip for a while and leave debris. So no, don't use that on a friction surface especially clutch. It's mostly a fish oil and nice product but not for cleaning a clutch,

T

Response From alienshadow

Thats a big 10-4 Tom

This is Roadrunner beep beep and bye bye lol...Had to say that

Response From Hammer Time

I can't believe those guys blew you off. They confirmed what we suspected that the plates were touching. The outrageous thing is that they consider that normal. They are definitely not supposed to touch each other and should be adjusted to clear. If the gap closes up again, then the pulley is leaking due to a bad bearing. No matter what, it's not supposed to be that way.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer tell me about it.. I guess I need to go out of town to get a reliable response.. I just wont deal with some of these fly by nights here in this town..Heck they didnt even offer to adjust they just said it would wear itself down.. I am telling you if I was close to you or Tom I would bring it on over and pay you for your time and of course work... I dont know what to do and now I hear this whinning noise when it shfits down to 2nd or first only when the a/c is on when its off the nosie is not there..

I wish my back yard mechanic was in good health he was the bomb...

Response From alienshadow

Okay guys I found a mechanic today.. He drove my truck heard the noise and told me this..

The Compressor is making the whining noise really dont know why...He said some are just nosiey The a/c air gap is also close.. He said let it ride.. He also said that a reman just depends just let it go and wait for it to have problems if its going to.. He really didnt seem concerned with any of the issues.... Heck i offered to pay him he shook my hand and I went on.. He just found a new customer..

Monday I paid 40.00 for nothing they acted like they could care less.. What some of these guys better do is wake up because some people like me wont put up with it...

Response From Hammer Time

Since he is the one that actually saw and heard this, he may be right. Just check the warranty expiration and make sure you don't let any serious issues lapse until the warranty expires. Some of them only give 90 days warranty and some give a year. Just remember that all these issues that your being told to live with will likely get worse and none of them would be there in a new unit.
You could still probably be able to upgrade it if you brought it back.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer I have 11 months left on the warranty.. I can take it back but they wont file the labor claim because the unit is still working...

Response From Hammer Time

I think you can pretty much forget about the labor claim. I've been in this business a long time and labor claims are pretty much non-existent. The store may tell you it's possible but all they do is file a request with the manufacturer and they just deny it. Nobody actually pays labor claims. If they let you upgrade for just the difference, that's about the best you can hope for.

Response From alienshadow

Well tell me guys the a/c unit is what the whinning noise is when I crank up the truck turn the a/c on you can hear it very well now.. Guess that means shes about to go right? Having a hard time with the guy at Oreilys he is telling me to wait until its not working at all.. The problem I have with that is I risk more damage from it... Correct me if I am wrong...

Response From Hammer Time

You don't tell him the story. You just remove the compressor and carry it into him and say it failed and you need a new one. He can't know how bad anything is at that point. Now that he knows, just pick a time when he isn't working.

Response From alienshadow

Will do Hammer in your opinion this thing is getting ready to go... The hummming or whinning noise would be my clue it is plus it dosent seem to cool as well...

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, sounds like it's dieing. If the noise changes when you turn it off and on, that would pretty much confirm it but even if it doesn't, it could still be the compressor.

Response From alienshadow

I dont hear it when its off at all.. So I guess thats my confirmation... Weird.. Will be getting a brand new one tomorrow.. You did say the same dryer would be okay correct?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, but make sure it gets at least 30 minutes under vacuum before recharging to make sure it's good and dry.
That's assuming you don't drive it until it seizes.

Response From alienshadow

Not sure how to tell the shop that but I will... I wont its going in the shop first thing..

Response From Hammer Time

Just tell them that since your re-using the dryer, you'd appreciate it if they made sure it got a good vacuum time. They will understand.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - quite a read already since I checked in! All seems on the right track to fix this with good advice. May have been said but don't allow compressor to seize! Unplug or disable it from compressing. The last ditch debris you DON'T want! Totally messes up the fix with another compressor. Well held vacuum as HT said. Shop will know.

The parts place isn't going to test what you bring back - they'll have to take your word or a note from shop that compressor isn't good.

Good luck. Don't let the parts place mess with you at this point IMO but stay level headed,

Tom

Response From alienshadow

Truck in shop getting new a/c unit on it.. Oreilys didnt charge me anything for new a/c unit or the oil.. Also they will do the claim but I dont expect much from it...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NOW WE ARE FINDING SOME SATISFACTION! Good for you. Fingers crossed that this can end it and you can come back and we can fool around but you know you can get real techs here too with ions of accumulated experience, -- some of it even with fixing cars (IT'S A JOKE)



Yes - lots of fingers!

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom yes i do plan to hang around who knows after all my luck I may be able to help someone.. Yeah I got my fingers crossed lol...

Response From alienshadow

Tom and Hammer got my truck back.. All noise is gone I am so happy with these results... Mechanic even did a sea salt vaccum treatment for me at no charge.. Truck seems to even idle better... You guys are the best.. If there is a way I can help out on the site please let me know... Glad to know some mechanics do care these days..

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear that. Your welcome to jump in wherever you feel you can help. Just make sure your not give wrong advice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Alien - so glad to hear good results. It's been a long haul for you and the misfortune of a bad remanufactured part. Stinks when that happens. I'm not totally against remanufactured stuff and sometimes is the only practical choice out there. Dang A/C just isn't the best place to try to save a buck as discovered no savings were had.

Some parts can be rebuilt and are so simple to replace if bad so what and save some money. I'm at the point now I don't even buy wiper blade refills but the whole blade instead!

Stay cool till we can start (speaking for myself) bellyaching about cold weather again


T

Response From alienshadow

Yes I will stay cool Tom.. Yeah I dont think i will slump to reman stuff again unless the price is unbeatable compared to a new part.. Never again for A/C.. It only takes 1 time to learn a lesson thats cost you...

Response From alienshadow

Hey guys just wondering with this new unit how cool should it be.. I notice when I am on drives with no stopping its feels good but when i have to stop and idle it seems to warm up a little...?? Should I call the shop if so I guess thats more money lol...

Also i put a new blower in a few months back it blows out good but would like for the air to come out better than it is is there such a thing??

Response From Hammer Time

There's not much you can do about the blower except maybe a higher quality motor.

As far as your temp, it varies with outside temp and has to have time to equalize before measuring anything. With an outside temp of about 80deg, set to recirculate on high blower, you should be able to see mid 50's out of the center vent when stopped but not sitting in direct sunlight. Driving down the road should be able to drop 3 or 4 more degrees.

Response From alienshadow

the recirculate when i hit that button it dosent do anything stays the same... Dont know why.. Its definately not in the 50 maybe 60 and thats while driving... Idle maybe 64

Response From Hammer Time

Try pinching off one of the heater hoses and repeat the test. Use a thermometer. Don't just guess.
You need to find out what's wrong with that recirc door too. That can make a 10 degree difference.

Response From alienshadow

any ideas on how to start checking that?? where to start looking?

Response From Hammer Time

The door is vacuum controlled. Start out by going to the actuator and see what's going on when you switch it. See if the door sticks, if it's getting vacuum, if the actuator holds vacuum.

Response From alienshadow

I put the blower motor in myself I thought I put it back in correctly.. There is only one plug that goes to it and then a vaccum hose but its hooked up because there wouldnt be air correct? Not really sure about this one.. I know I had to cut the boot off to replace there was no other way but I am sure i didnt cut any wires will have to check in the morning... Lost in N.C. lol.. Did i do this wrong??

Response From Hammer Time

I have no idea what you did or didn't do. This door is a flap right next to the fan that determines if the air is being pulled in from outside the car or inside the car.

Response From alienshadow

I will take the blower of in the morning.. Do you have any diagrams for that? I will look for that door or flap...

Response From alienshadow

Think I found the issue I can go on the very bottom right behind the blower theres a vent shut off if I push it up i can tell a diff... Not sure how to hook it back up guess i definately need to take the blower back off correct?? And set it up that way...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien - all readers:

Thread is so long it's near impossible to dig out what has or has not been done to a 1993 Chev - the crossover year and R-12 ceased for the current 134a refrigerant.

Books can be wrong but all model year 93 Chev Trucks were originally r-12. If the condenser is still original for R-12 the BTU of cooling power would be less with the retrofit to 134a but IMO acceptable. It can be bolstered with a more aggressive fan clutch or change to an HE (high efficiency) condenser which is weak and can't really be flushed out effectively for any future problems.

Test: Any would perform cooler or should. Spray/mist water over condenser and output temps should max to their best possible. As HT said, measure this with a real thermometer at center vent - no guessing. Laugh - only my fingers/hand can tell temps with frightening accuracy!

Small cabin of most trucks still use BTU for larger styles so usually you don't have to jump hoops to get adequate cooling. If you want a rolling freezer buy a Ford from the 70s or 80s.

Tricks: Maximum fan clutch power. They are annoying as they drag like a Piper Cub taking off too much for my taste but work well.

Heavy or insulate floor mats as a bit of heat comes thru the floor. Duh - don't allow ones that mess with the pedals - another car maker has enough trouble with that! Plug off any failed insulation at firewall. Use "re-circulate" all the time. If you want more fresh air open a window.

Remember - brand new the power of a given A/C system varied make by make. Some just didn't have it new that would freeze you.

Most vehicles will have warmer output temps at low speed and idle especially.

Outside heat can also enter thru door panels. Feel the draft thru the door latch in most. Doesn't take much to tax the system.

More! Your body is worth/adding about 2,000 BTUs! Put three people in a vehicle and that's the rating of a home space heater you are fighting heat from bodies - no kidding.

More II: This time of year coming out of Winter folks (should speak for myself) are more sensitive to heat. In Fall the first day it only hits 60s feels like the Arctic. Get the thermometer so you can tell real temps of what's available. I really don't know the climate you're dealing with. I know folks from specifically Tucson and Phoenix who really deal with actual air temps of 120s sometimes - yikes! That is a challenge for the vehicle never mind the A/C,

T

Response From alienshadow

Okay Hammer where is that located ?? Not a mechanic but can figure it out when led the right way sorry buddy.. and Thanks for putting up with me... It was working when the old a/c was in it.. before the reman maybe it isnt hooked up I have no idea where to look...

Response From Hammer Time

The door will be right near the blower motor so it can switch the intake air. I just found out that this one is electric.
Here is the test for the actuator.

Response From alienshadow

No off roading ..underneath looks like a brand new one I keep it clean... I hate this, this unit isnt even 3 months old.. Guess thats what I get for getting a reman unit... Not sure what this is going to cost..

Response From alienshadow

Tom if its the bearing is that an easy fix? I have a 12 month warranty on this a/c unit Oreilys claims I can file for a labor claim but i THINK i WILL GET THE HASSLE... I understand what you are explaining to me Tom.. Makes me think run the a/c all the time until I get it checked I dont want the belt breaking...

Response From alienshadow

Also do u happen to have a pic of where I am suppose to put the card??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If it shows, here's the idea...........



Actually a generic pic but may look real close to that. That outer plate is turning the compressor itself and all things off you should be able to spin that by hand which is at that slow rate turning the inside of the compressor. When off that plate sits still. When outer plate moves by hand with belt on you'll see that grooved pulley NOT move via a very small gap. That's where you check it and best go all the way around or as much as you can.

All that would be better done with belt just retracted and hold it out of the way. Then grooved pulley should spin free as a bird and silently. If it was an old vehicle/part and sitting around, rusted it would rub some till burnished in again. Those three rivet things are holding metal springs (bent metal) on that one such that default without the magnetic pull of clutch coil pulling it in is OFF. Just recently found a clutch looking like this one with one broken but the remaining two were plenty to disengage that one but it rattled.

I find it easier to use a biz card than a feeler gauge to run it all the way around. If it ran into a tight spot that isn't right. Neither the outer plate or the grooved pulley should have any rocking free-play! You need belt out of the way for best check.

If you remove the belt make sure you have a diagram to place back exactly. If not I should be able to find one. This came with a sticker showing belt routing. Make sure if you do that, that the belt is exactly in its grooves on all pulleys or it will tear up and wreck it quickly.

RE: Running compressor all the time: You really can't unless it's super hot it will cycle off and on as needed for the conditions. If it didn't shut down when it reaches satisfied for pressures and coolness it would ice up in dash and risk returning liquid refrigerant to be compressed which it can't and would stall the compressor - not good!

See what you find. When you can, discuss a plan with the shop. As far as labor reimbursement for defect you can try and I've done it. Tons of paper and statements, receipts then a long wait for them to decide. As said I did that without legal action against a part maker and they did pay out about $300 but for the time I spent it wasn't enough.

If this compressor is working well and quietly when working I'd hate to see it go if only an adjustment or even the whole clutch which even a reman should use a new one - or not funny, clean and paint it/sand blast it to look new

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom with the belt on I cant get a business card to go all the way around.. I can get it in on top but when I start going around it gets real tight... I will let the mechanic take the belt off or whatever I dont have the tools to do it... Your info has been helpful.. Maybe it just needs to be adjusted..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: Know this: If just an adjustment fine. It does take a puller to adjust gap or to remove clutch for even a bearing. It doesn't require messing with the refrigerant just to do the clutch stuff on most when you can get clutch puller tool in place ok. I would hope if deemed in need of a clutch that the parts place would just get you a brand new clutch as so far the compressor is working but let the shop decide. If no good you should get a full credit towards a new compressor with new clutch already to go. They may require yet another drier to maintain warranty on a new one,

T

PS: This is a testament for springing the extra for new vs remanufactured. Some reman parts are fine. In compressors I don't like it. With anything check the prices of new vs remans as you can be surprised at how close some are but be sure you are getting direct fit stuff of OE quality....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The worry is the belt burning or falling off if this went real bad. Gotta diagnose it first. The compressor is both a pump when engaged and at that time the bearing of the clutch (remember it's also an idling pulley) is really not in use. The bearing IS in use when compressor is off.

Here's the deal. If just an adjustment then let the shop fix that. If and you would have to ask about warranty on the unit as a whole if they would send you just a clutch or want the whole thing back. That means evacuating the system and starting all over again as if it had a bad compressor for a possible plain bearing. Your shop isn't going to want to do all this for nothing with parts you brought in unless you have some arrangement.

Again: When engaged the compressor is turning on bushings inside it and when off it's just a bearing like an idler pulley would have. I still don't totally understand why clutch air gap would wait this time to show up as an issue? Stuff happens

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yep - now that seems more like the clutch air gap is an issue. Not there so hard to be sure. You can try a trick to check that gap with a standard paper biz card it should be larger than that. When folded it would be very tight or wont fit in the gap well. Spec for most is about .020 if you want to check with a feeler gauge. Is this all dirty from anything?? Been off roading?

In that it near goes away it might be just some goofy quirk and suddenly stay away IF it's the clutch plates. Either way worth paying a lot of attention so you don't get stuck,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

New is new and with compressors as many parts would be the best choice. Sometimes the price or vehicle doesn't justify that If the tech didn't want to install a rebuilt unit then why didn't he stop and mention it right away?

It's done and the prices seem great to me. If it's all working properly and SOUNDS good now then just pay attention that it stays that way. Any increased noise(s) or oil evidence behind that clutch or anywhere refrigerant is contained is a cause to act to find out why.

As mentioned before, when you know it's going out because of noise or total lack of cooling then unplug it so it can't do more harm.

Good luck with it,

T