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Dorman
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Right Dorman

P311-126A35E    700-897  New

20369894

Qty:
$13.71
Dorman Window Regulator Guide  Front Right
  • Product Attributes:
    • Length (In): 1.28 In.
    • Thickness (in): 0.518 In.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Right
Dorman
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Left Dorman

P311-3C3BA8B    700-896  New

20369895

Qty:
$13.71
Dorman Window Regulator Guide  Front Left
  • Product Attributes:
    • Length (In): 1.28 In.
    • Thickness (in): 0.518 In.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Left
Motormite
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Left Motormite

P311-5581E56    74440  New

20369895

Qty:
$12.11
Motormite Window Regulator Guide  Front Left
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm – Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Length (In): 1.28 In.
    • Thickness (in): 0.518 In.
Brand: Motormite
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Left
Motormite
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Right Motormite

P311-0ADBF1D    74441  New

20369894

Qty:
$11.46
Motormite Window Regulator Guide  Front Right
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm – Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Length (In): 1.28 In.
    • Thickness (in): 0.518 In.
Brand: Motormite
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Right
Motormite
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Left Motormite

P311-5C360AC    74442  New

20369894 , 20369895

Qty:
$9.76
Motormite Window Regulator Guide  Front Left
  • Assortment
Brand: Motormite
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Left
Motormite
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Window Regulator Guide - Front Right Motormite

P311-5C360AC    74442  New

20369894 , 20369895

Qty:
$9.76
Motormite Window Regulator Guide  Front Right
  • Assortment
Brand: Motormite
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal Front Right

Latest Buick Repair and Window Regulator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1998 Buick Park Avenue Ultra problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bobbiebittman on 1998 Buick Park Avenue Ultra problem

Hey guys, all of a sudden my drivers side window will barely go up and down, and the others seem to be moving slowly too. Any ideas on what might be up?
Thanks

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Need to check the battery & charging system 1st to make sure you have full power. Then lube the tracks the window ride in to make sure they aren't binding. After that it's going to be taking off the door panels to check the window regulators and checking the power going to the master switch to make sure there isn't any excess resistance causing a voltage drop...

02 buick lesabre power windows

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From dr.donut on 02 buick lesabre power windows

I have a 2002 buick lesabre with a 3.8 and have a passenger window that goes down useing the new drivers switch but not up, unless I removed the panel and hot wire it, so the motor works, the pass switch is missing. From what I know these are solid state and I'm wondering how to trouble shoot this system, (switch, module, motor). Is a standard 12 V tester any good for this or is it something completely different? thanks

Response From dr.donut

I went to the salvage yard and got a switch and module for the front pass. and it went down but not up,same as before. I checked the drivers window motor and contrary to what the body shop said it didn't work, so after replacing it the drivers window works. But still the front pass. only goes down, so I hot wired it up and put it all back together, could it be two modules with the same fault? I'll call the salvage yard and see what they have to say.$65** for the module and switch, not bad.

Response From dr.donut Top Rated Answer

I got the window up,The car went to a body shop and they determined the drivers switch was bad but the drivers motor was good, , they had to get windows down to do the paint job and spent a little time checking them out.I bought the new drivers switch and only the rear windows work, and the pass. front goes down but not up. I had to replace the rear drvrs window regulator and used a tester sending the 9V battery through the switch testing for continuity to see how it operates. There were 2 wires and a blk/wht, the switch would ground one or the other for up & down, I don't know what electronics are in that switch but it still works. I know the drivers switch is solid state so I don't even want to send any current through that one, I don't know about the front pass. but I tried to put it up the first time by jumping wires through the module on the switch disconect, it didn't work, and at first the yellow wire was hot and now it's not so I beleive that module is a goner. I went to the dealership and the drivers module is about $500. So now I have to go to the scrap yard but I'm looking for an entire car for parts at these prices. If I didn't care I would remove the motor and put a hand crank on it but my wife is not about to go for that. Thanks again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

dr.donut! I'm NOT suggesting using a 9v battery for testing anything that could involve the vehicle's devices RATHER it can make assorted motors either work or enable a power window to go up with a push at the same time - ALL OR ANY OF THAT NOT INVOLVING THE CAR AND JUST THE ITEM UNPLUGGED AS IF IT WAS OFF THE CAR!


Know, not guess when something like that could help. Not for general use but you said a window went down and not back up and know how annoying that could be if you needed more time and use of the car to do whatever to properly fix and still use the car, that's all.........


Tom

Response From Hammer Time

No, I'm afraid not. This system used an electronic module to control the windows. You need a professional scan tool capable of accessing this module.




Response From dr.donut

Can the switches be tested with a standard multimeter? It seemed to work on the rear window switch and the drivers has solid state elec. can the front pass. be tested do you know or is there a chance it can be toasted with the 9V multimeter? Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

If you're testing 12v with a 9v meter, you're probably going to fry it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching in dismay. Do you have a passenger window stuck down till this is resolved? Take one stuck down and unplug that motor if you need time with a window up of course. It should still be just two wires to a motor (don't involve the car or the switching at all) and if you power it sometimes with even a 9V household battery or two in series you can nudge it up. Swap polarity if you pick the wrong way. Don't do a thing unless you know it is just to the motor itself.


If you have a jumper box you could use that - just to put the dang window up. AGAIN - this only with motor isolated from the whole car like it's on the floor or work bench type thing,


T

Response From Hammer Time

You're not going to move that window with a dozen 9v batteries. Too much current draw for that. I think he's already powered it directly anyway.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sure can sport, if still pushing a window you just help it and it will go. Bad motors will not. Do it all the time hunting down used parts and dinky motors to who knows what. They don't let people drive out in the yards and would like to know if things work or not in assorted wrecks or junks and I'm not carrying a heavy battery for pick your own places, T


(Just back as I keep spares. ONE 9v turned a late 60's ^ thru 80s PW motor which are about like a starter on some cars now - it turned)

Response From dr.donut

O.K. thanks for everything, With a new switch and a good motor I'll have to assume it's the module, plus I may have toasted it jumping wires trying to get it up, assuming it was common relays,I am out dated.

1991 Buick regal custom sluggish/difficult power locks.

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dontfeedjay on 1991 Buick regal custom sluggish/difficult power locks.

So the issue I am having is that my 1991 Buick regal customs power locks don't work proper. When it is warm out, the buttons and locks work, but manually unlocking the doors with a key, or by hand from inside the vehicle is difficult.

In cold weather, the power locks are sluggish and move slowly when locked or unlocked using the power lock button in the car. This happens regardless of outside moisture. It can be cold and bone dry, and the issue persists. Also in the cold unlocking the doors is nearly impossible. From the outside the key will barely turn (I have tried using de-icer and similar products), and manually unlocking the car from the inside also requires a ridiculous amount of pressure on the lock itself to move it.

Again, buick regal custom, 1991. Engine is the larger of the 2 sizes available, I want to say 3.8. Mileage unknown as that stopped functioning a while ago.

Thank you for any help on this.

Response From Hammer Time

If you're having a problem moving them manually, then the latches have to be binding up.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Can be common as an aficionado of the old stuff, this is much newer! OE lube both wears out and get hard year, time, temps all involved. So, always handy but work to take all the door panels off and you need to lube all you can find inside the latches and key tumblers + while there all the moves like window regulators too where you can.


I have awesome luck with WD-40 first and depending spray white lithium grease. You need to get to back side of latches not what you see on door jam just opening door but do those too and the trunk lid stuff.


If felting on a window is gone (that happens too) just carry drying silicone spray and it will become a routine as no much lasts and greasing makes a mess you don't want.


While you have all this stuff don't neglect hood release latch and hinges all over the car even some glove box latches but those with a Q-Tip you don't need a mess.


Only once and a GM thing ALL locks were funky slow or inoperative for some going up only but trouble to find as it would work fine for months. 8 months later in fact was the lock relay worked but contacts on that particular vehicle for UP were not the same as request for DOWN and it worked but didn't let enough power thru it to actuate all locks dependably cold hot or whatever but liked it better with engine running with higher voltage as alternator is going was a clue.


It's a pest to take all panels off to do that but if you expect forever out of cars and I do you do that and do it anytime you are there for any other reason.


Hard by key is either that the key is also moving the actuator at same time or latch is that unlubed or hard grease lube as you said colder matters.


Off exact topic but you may be shocked at what cheap junk they hide that you need inside doors and this car isn't old enough for when thing were much stronger and of course weighed more and harder to assemble new which comes into play and heaven forbid an assembly actually take a person to install it new!


T

2001 Monte Carlo intake explosion

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Matt98svt on 2001 Monte Carlo intake explosion

Hi all, I have a 2001 Monte carlo ss with 90k miles and no mods. I was in the process of changing a window regulator and ran down my battery to the point of needing to jump start the car. I try to crank it 3-4 times with the jumper cables on and it doesn't have enough juice to turn over till about the 4th try..and when it just starts to turn over there is a loud BANG! I jump out and there is a small fire limited to about a 3 inch radius and about a foot high so I grab the fire extinguisher off the nearby wall and spray down the engine. After inspecting the damage it appears the plastic upper intake exploded into a million pieces. I was surprised how thin the plastic that makes up the intake was. The only other damage I see is one of the injectors (back of engine closest to passengers side) is pushed out of the lower intake about a half an inch and the fuel rail that connects to it is bent slightly. This is where the fire was and the injector looks shot...other than that there is no fire damage. Of course spraying the fire extinguisher sprayed this fine sand like stuff all over and into the engine. I had it towed to a shop and they are supposed to look at it Monday. My plan was to pull the lower manifold and clean out as much of that extinguisher mess and plastic. I wanted to do a leak down on that back cylinder and maybe put a borescope in the plug hole but I really don't feel there is any internal damage...but not certain. The intake is only like 1/16th in thick plastic which was the path of least resistance and it exploded before the engine ever really started
turning over. Not sure why this happened but found other instances online of gm 3800 series II engines having the same intake explosion. I had changed the plugs and wired about two weeks ago and the pvc valve and had no issues such as misfires or anything after that so not sure if that could be related. Any advice on getting this fixed is appreciated and I will post pics soon

Response From Hammer Time

Intakes explode because fuel builds up inside and then a source of ignition like a backfire ignites it. You need to determine if you have a fuel leak from something like a stuck open injector or an ignition problem causing the backfire.

The thickness of the intake isn't important because there is never supposed to be any pressure in there anyway.

Response From Matt98svt

The mechanic called and left a voicemail that he only glanced under the hood but that he recommended replacing the upper intake the fuel rail and all 6 injectors....(quoted $1000 for the 6 injectors alone)$2200 total. He said if it was him though he would replace the entire engine since the fine sand like stuff from the extinguisher prob got into the engine. The motor wasn't running when I sprayed it though and I was 10ft away so not sure I need a new engine here.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

#1 - Glad you had an extinguisher around!


Fortunately I don't have but ONE time I had to use one and was just a fine baby powder dusty crap but worked thank you. IDK if this is worth tossing total engine quite yet? Think I'd just blow the crap out of cylinders with compressed air and think/bet you'd be OK but mind you I'm not there looking at this show either.


Small point was that dust from the extinguisher made a simple, no damage to anything fire on engine seriously not want to fire after the fact not what caused the fire - carb cleaner a bit too much in that case on a hot spot on manifold.


End of that story is it didn't hurt anything once cleaned up mostly with compressed air externally as it was ugly of course,


T

Response From Discretesignals

I personally don't think the engine is going to need to be replaced. That is a little extreme.

I'm sure the engine wasn't running when you blew powder all over it, so no big deal.

Response From Hammer Time

I agree, you need a manifold and to repair whatever caused the explosion in the first place. Make sure none of the plastic went into any of the cylinders.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You know it is funny that GM had a recall on 2000 Monte for the fuel pressure regulator leaking and causing intake manifold explosions in 2004.

File In Section: Product Recalls

Bulletin No.: 03054B

Date: June, 2004

PRODUCT SAFETY RECALL

SUBJECT:
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - REPLACE

MODELS:
1998-2000 BUICK PARK AVENUE, LESABRE
1998-2000 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE
1998-1999 OLDSMOBILE EIGHTY-EIGHT
2000 CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO, IMPALA
EQUIPPED WITH 3.8L V6 (RPO L36 - VIN CODE K) ENGINE

THIS BULLETIN REPLACES 03054A ISSUED FEBRUARY 2004, AND IS BEING REVISED TO INCLUDE 1998-2000 BUICK LESABRE, PONTIAC BONNEVILLE; 1998-99 OLDSMOBILE EIGHTY-EIGHT; AND 2000 BUICK PARK AVENUE, CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO AND IMPALA MODEL YEAR VEHICLES. DUE TO PARTS AVAILABILITY, 03054B IS BEING CONDUCTED IN 2 PHASES. PHASE 1 WILL CONSIST OF 1998-1999 BUICK LESABRE, PONTIAC BONNEVILLE AND OLDSMOBILE EIGHTY-EIGHT MODEL YEAR VEHICLES. PHASE 2 WILL CONSIST OF 2000 BUICK PARK AVENUE AND LESABRE, PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO AND IMPALA MODEL YEAR VEHICLES. WHEN SUFFICIENT PARTS ARE AVAILABLE TO NOTIFY CUSTOMERS OF 2000 MODEL YEAR VEHICLES, YOU WILL BE NOTIFIED AND WILL RECEIVE A NEW INITIATION REPORT. PLEASE DISCARD SAFETY RECALL BULLETIN NUMBER 03054.

CONDITION

General Motors has decided that a detect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists in certain 1998-2000 Buick Park Avenue, LeSabre, Pontiac Bonneville; 1998-99 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight: and 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo, Impala model year vehicles equipped with a 3.8L V6 (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engine. These vehicles have a much higher than usual rate of fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leaks. A leak can allow fuel to enter the intake manifold through a vacuum line. In low battery conditions, if the engine does not start when cranked, the fuel from the leaking regulator and a mistimed spark can cause a backfire. The backfire can rupture the intake manifold, causing a loud bang. The rupture of the intake manifold can displace a fuel line, pulling an injector out of place, and causing a fuel leak. If there is an ignition source, a fire can result.

Slow engine cranking and difficulty starting the engine could indicate a low battery. Poor driveability or a check engine light could indicate a fuel pressure regulator leak.

CORRECTION

Dealers are to inspect the engine fuel rail and, if necessary, replace the fuel pressure regulator.