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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Cardone
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Best Selling Genuine Chrysler Window Motors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Mopar, Dorman, Cardone
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Chrysler Replacement Window Motor Parts
Mopar
2010 Chrysler Sebring Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-39BEB73    W0133-1883121  New

Qty:
$94.74
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 6 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2010 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan
Dorman
1997 Chrysler Cirrus Power Window Motor - Front Right Dorman

P311-3312568    742-315  New

11M170 , 4814119AB , 55255619AB , 76807 , 4724207 , 4724207AB , 55154621 , 4814119 , WL41015 , 86807 , 86839 , 55154925 , 86841 , 11M128 , 42-611 , 11M172 , 55255619AC , 82-611 , 86840

Qty:
$55.74
Dorman Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Part Numbers May Be Reversed on Some Models Match Original
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Chrysler Cirrus Front Right
Dorman
1997 Chrysler Cirrus Power Window Motor - Rear Right Dorman

P311-3312568    742-315  New

11M170 , 4814119AB , 55255619AB , 76807 , 4724207 , 4724207AB , 55154621 , 4814119 , WL41015 , 86807 , 86839 , 55154925 , 86841 , 11M128 , 42-611 , 11M172 , 55255619AC , 82-611 , 86840

Qty:
$55.74
Dorman Power Window Motor  Rear Right
  • Part Numbers May Be Reversed on Some Models Match Original
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Chrysler Cirrus Rear Right
Dorman
1996 Chrysler Cirrus Power Window Motor - Front Right Dorman

P311-3312568    742-315  New

11M170 , 4814119AB , 55255619AB , 76807 , 4724207 , 4724207AB , 55154621 , 4814119 , WL41015 , 86807 , 86839 , 55154925 , 86841 , 11M128 , 42-611 , 11M172 , 55255619AC , 82-611 , 86840

Qty:
$55.74
Dorman Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Part Numbers May Be Reversed on Some Models Match Original w/7 Tooth Gear
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler Cirrus Front Right
Dorman
1999 Chrysler Cirrus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-38DE4F1    W0133-1669077  New

Qty:
$101.82
Dorman Power Window Motor
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Chrysler Cirrus
Dorman
1996 Chrysler Cirrus Power Window Motor Dorman

P311-38DE4F1    W0133-1669077  New

Qty:
$101.82
Dorman Power Window Motor
  • Production: 07/13/1995-, with 7 Tooth Motor
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1996 - Chrysler Cirrus Fr:07-13-95
Mopar
2018 Chrysler 300 Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-325A433    W0133-1954529  New

Qty:
$141.35
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Chrysler 300
Cardone
2001 Chrysler Sebring Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor

P311-5A9895D    42-442  Remanufactured

5056029AB , 5056029AG , 5056029AF

Qty:
$36.24
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Window Lift Motor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Each Motor Is 100% Tested. Testing Includes Loading The Motor On A Simulated Window Fixture To Verify Speed And Strength Of The Motor
      • Every Motor Has Its Internal Components Inspected And Gauged. Bushings Are Gauged And Re-impregnated With Lubricating Oil, Ball Bearings Are Replaced With New And Armatures Are Fully Tested To Ensure Insulation
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Fully Compatible With The O.e. Mounting And Regulator
      • For Motors Which Have An Auto Up / Down Feature, Output Signals And Pulse Counts Are Matched To The Vehicle Application And Motors Are Shipped In The ‘full Up Position’
      • Internal Gears Are Gauged, Inspected And Renewed For Reuse Or Replaced If Out Of Spec. Replacement Gears Are Redesigned With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Motor Magnets Are 100% Recharged, Guaranteeing Efficiency And Reliability
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are direct-fit O.E. replacements that began as original cores. Each unit is re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. For nearly half a century, CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors have provided rock-solid reliability that you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2001 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan Front Left
Cardone
1995 Chrysler Voyager Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor

P311-23F73F1    42-614  Remanufactured

4717767AB , 4796319

Qty:
$46.74
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Window Lift Motor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Each Motor Is 100% Tested. Testing Includes Loading The Motor On A Simulated Window Fixture To Verify Speed And Strength Of The Motor
      • Every Motor Has Its Internal Components Inspected And Gauged. Bushings Are Gauged And Re-impregnated With Lubricating Oil, Ball Bearings Are Replaced With New And Armatures Are Fully Tested To Ensure Insulation
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Fully Compatible With The O.e. Mounting And Regulator
      • For Motors Which Have An Auto Up / Down Feature, Output Signals And Pulse Counts Are Matched To The Vehicle Application And Motors Are Shipped In The ‘full Up Position’
      • Internal Gears Are Gauged, Inspected And Renewed For Reuse Or Replaced If Out Of Spec. Replacement Gears Are Redesigned With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Motor Magnets Are 100% Recharged, Guaranteeing Efficiency And Reliability
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are direct-fit O.E. replacements that began as original cores. Each unit is re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. For nearly half a century, CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors have provided rock-solid reliability that you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chrysler Voyager Front Left
Cardone
1995 Chrysler Voyager Power Window Motor - Front Right Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor

P311-0D5C354    42-615  Remanufactured

4796318 , 4717766AB

Qty:
$46.74
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • Remanufactured Window Lift Motor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Each Motor Is 100% Tested. Testing Includes Loading The Motor On A Simulated Window Fixture To Verify Speed And Strength Of The Motor
      • Every Motor Has Its Internal Components Inspected And Gauged. Bushings Are Gauged And Re-impregnated With Lubricating Oil, Ball Bearings Are Replaced With New And Armatures Are Fully Tested To Ensure Insulation
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Fully Compatible With The O.e. Mounting And Regulator
      • For Motors Which Have An Auto Up / Down Feature, Output Signals And Pulse Counts Are Matched To The Vehicle Application And Motors Are Shipped In The ‘full Up Position’
      • Internal Gears Are Gauged, Inspected And Renewed For Reuse Or Replaced If Out Of Spec. Replacement Gears Are Redesigned With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Motor Magnets Are 100% Recharged, Guaranteeing Efficiency And Reliability
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Right
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are direct-fit O.E. replacements that began as original cores. Each unit is re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. For nearly half a century, CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors have provided rock-solid reliability that you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chrysler Voyager Front Right
Cardone
2003 Chrysler Voyager Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor

P311-08D00DF    42-454  Remanufactured

5135251AA , 4894541AA , 4894527AA

Qty:
$65.19
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Window Lift Motor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Each Motor Is 100% Tested. Testing Includes Loading The Motor On A Simulated Window Fixture To Verify Speed And Strength Of The Motor
      • Every Motor Has Its Internal Components Inspected And Gauged. Bushings Are Gauged And Re-impregnated With Lubricating Oil, Ball Bearings Are Replaced With New And Armatures Are Fully Tested To Ensure Insulation
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Every Remanufactured Motor Is Fully Compatible With The O.e. Mounting And Regulator
      • For Motors Which Have An Auto Up / Down Feature, Output Signals And Pulse Counts Are Matched To The Vehicle Application And Motors Are Shipped In The ‘full Up Position’
      • Internal Gears Are Gauged, Inspected And Renewed For Reuse Or Replaced If Out Of Spec. Replacement Gears Are Redesigned With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Motor Magnets Are 100% Recharged, Guaranteeing Efficiency And Reliability
    • Mounting Type: Through Hole
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are direct-fit O.E. replacements that began as original cores. Each unit is re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. For nearly half a century, CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors have provided rock-solid reliability that you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Chrysler Voyager Front Left
Cardone
1995 Chrysler Voyager Power Window Motor - Front Right Cardone - New CARDONE SELECT Window Lift Motor

P311-27C34B6    82-615  New

4717766AB , 4796318

Qty:
$61.73
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Right
  • New Window Lift Motor
  • New CARDONE SELECT Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Brushes Are Precisely Designed To Ensure Armature And Contacts Are Properly Matched
      • Designed With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Every Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Load Testing Ensures Guaranteed Performance Every Time
      • Magnets Deliver The Right Amount Of Torque Needed To Withstand Extreme Weather Conditions And To Compensate For Other Worn Components In The Window Lift System
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are Designed With Extra Torque Motors To Prevent Premature Failure Resulting From Improperly Lubricated Window Lift Regulators
    • Mounting Type: Self-tapping
    • Product Condition: New
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Right
  • Building on decades of experience using reverse engineering to remanufacture automotive wiper motors, CARDONE engineers have meticulously designed our CARDONE New Window Lift Motors as an improvement over the original design. Our motor gears are designed with a stronger, less brittle material to prevent premature wear, stripping and breakage – resulting in a product you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chrysler Voyager Front Right
Cardone
1995 Chrysler Voyager Power Window Motor - Front Left Cardone - New CARDONE SELECT Window Lift Motor

P311-3F346BF    82-614  New

4717767AB , 4796319

Qty:
$61.73
Cardone Power Window Motor  Front Left
  • New Window Lift Motor
  • New CARDONE SELECT Window Lift Motor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Motor Equipped With An Anti-pinch Safety Feature Typically Has 5 Or More Terminals Or Pins As Well As An Express-up Feature On The Window Switch.
      • An External Module Monitors The Rotation Of The Internal Gear. If There Is A Change In The Pulse Train Of The Sensor Before The Window If Fully Closed, The Module Will Interpret This Change As Something Preventing The Window From Moving Easily, Which Cau
      • Can I Bench-test A Case Grounded Motor?
      • Do All Vehicles With Power Windows Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Dry Or Worn Weather-strip And Tracks, Dirty Switch Contacts, Or Damaged Window Regulator Could Be Causing These Problems.
      • How Can I Tell If My Vehicle Has An Anti-pinch Window Lift Motor?
      • How Does The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Work?
      • Is It Necessary To Reset A Motor That Has The Anti-pinch Safety Feature After Installation?
      • Most 2-terminal Or 2-wire Motors Are Grounded Through The Control Switch; However, Some Older Applications Use The Motor Housing As A Common Ground. If Power Supply And Ground Are Applied Directly To The Terminals Of A Motor With This Design, An Internal
      • My Window Drops 2 To 3 Inches From The Upper Window Channel, Then Stops When I Use The “auto-up” Feature In My Toyota Or Nissan. What’s Causing This?
      • My Window Lift Motor Is Moving Slowly, Binding And Is Very Noisy When Operated. What Could Be Causing The Problem?
      • Noisy Operation Or A Popping Sound Can Be Misdiagnosed As A Window Lift Motor Problem. What May Actually Be Happening Is The Regulator Cable Hold-down May Be Broken Or Missing; This Would Allow The Cable To Snag On The Window Regulator Bracket As The Win
      • Not If The Motor Is Installed And Is Not Disturbed From Its Factory-set Position. If The Motor Is Operated Before Being Coupled To Regulator, Then It Will Need To Be Reset.
      • The Anti-pinch Feature Was Introduced By Opel In 1986. Most Vehicles Built After 2008 With An Auto-up And Auto-down Switch Have An Anti-pinch Safety Feature.
      • The Anti-pinch Safety Feature Prevents The Window Glass From Reaching The End Of Its Upward Travel When The System Senses An Obstacle In The Path Of The Glass.
      • The Likely Cause Is A Window Lift Motor That Was Bench-tested Or Operated Before Being Installed Into The Window Regulator. This Action Cancels The Upper Limit Position. All Express Up/down Motors Are Shipped In The “full Up” Position And Should Not Be B
      • The Vehicle May Have Faulty Wiring Or A Defective Control Switch. Most 2-wire Window Lift Motors Depend On A Voltage Polarity Change To Control Direction. If The Motor Runs In One Direction But Not The Other, The Problem Is Most Likely In The Wiring Or S
      • What Causes Noisy Operation Or Popping On A Window Lift Motor With A Cable-type Regulator Design?
      • What’s An Anti-pinch Safety Feature?
      • Why Does My 2-wire Window Lift Motor Only Run In One Direction?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Brushes Are Precisely Designed To Ensure Armature And Contacts Are Properly Matched
      • Designed With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
      • Every Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Load Testing Ensures Guaranteed Performance Every Time
      • Magnets Deliver The Right Amount Of Torque Needed To Withstand Extreme Weather Conditions And To Compensate For Other Worn Components In The Window Lift System
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are Designed With Extra Torque Motors To Prevent Premature Failure Resulting From Improperly Lubricated Window Lift Regulators
    • Mounting Type: Self-tapping
    • Product Condition: New
    • Window Motor Use Location: Front Left
  • Building on decades of experience using reverse engineering to remanufacture automotive wiper motors, CARDONE engineers have meticulously designed our CARDONE New Window Lift Motors as an improvement over the original design. Our motor gears are designed with a stronger, less brittle material to prevent premature wear, stripping and breakage – resulting in a product you can trust for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chrysler Voyager Front Left
Mopar
2010 Chrysler Sebring Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-1C2840B    W0133-1883119  New

Qty:
$91.81
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 2 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2010 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan
Mopar
2010 Chrysler Sebring Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-1CD5513    W0133-1883120  New

Qty:
$94.67
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 6 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2010 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan
Mopar
2008 Chrysler Town & Country Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-3794D32    W0133-1883229  New

Qty:
$109.97
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
2016 Chrysler Town & Country Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-3794D32    W0133-1883229  New

Qty:
$109.97
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 6-Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
2008 Chrysler Town & Country Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-2D17142    W0133-1883232  New

Qty:
$105.06
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 2 Pin
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
2016 Chrysler Town & Country Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-2D17142    W0133-1883232  New

Qty:
$105.06
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
2016 Chrysler Town & Country Power Window Motor Mopar

P311-2D17142    W0133-1883232  New

Qty:
$105.06
Mopar Power Window Motor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 2 Pin Connector
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Chrysler Town & Country

Latest Chrysler Repair and Window Motor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

auto window repair

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From misymufet on auto window repair

I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The drivers side window has stopped working, but all the other windows and roof are still working. Can anyone tell me what the problem is and how I need to fix it or possible how expensive it is to fix it.

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

As HT stated, you need to remove the door panel and check for power and ground to the window motor.

Response From misymufet

Thank you, I'll look into that and get back to you and let you know what I find.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A maybe no harm trick for this. Get in car, wait for any lighting to go out and force an overhead light to come on. Key to run position such than other windows work.

Note when one is up and you request up the light will dim a bit. Now do that to the broken one and if it dims in either up or down request the power get there and motor can't respond.

Then get inside and check for power. Not sure but that may come as an assembly with the regulator and be a pest. Not sure on that exact year how it was done.

Not really old enough but some will lose power in wiring in the door jams. Not likely IMO for this as it's just driver's window not others,

T

Response From misymufet

Thanks for the update, but I already tried that. I get nothing.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, what are you missing (power or ground( when you trigger the switch up?
What are you missing when you trigger the switch down?

Response From misymufet

I believe I'm missing power. The light that says auto on the switch doesn't light up anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

We could be back to real test light what is going on and could be where wires bend in door jam or who knows just yet?

Remember checking grounds with common test light you power the alligator clip and it would light on ground - got it?

T

Response From misymufet

Problem Solved!

I want to thank everyone for all of their helpful suggestions. It is now fixed. I took it up to a friend of mine and he just banged on the inside of the door and it went up. He said sometimes in the heat, the brushes get stuck. He did tell me not to let it go down all the way until I can afford too have it looked at properly.

Great site, if I need anymore help, I'll let you know.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like it needs a new motor.

Response From misymufet

It probably does, but right now I'm unemployed and going to school. Fixing it right away is not an option. As long as it is up for the colder days that are coming, not trying to rush summer, but I don't want to be freezing to death.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't know how to test this. You need to bring it to a shop for diagnosis.

Response From Discretesignals

Do you hear any noises in the door when you try to operate the driver's window?

Response From misymufet

no, there is no noise at all. I will delete my other post. Sorry, I couldn't find it that is why I wrote it again.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't worry about it. We already locked it.

Window issue--2001 Chrysler Sebring Lxi

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From linkingirl84 on Window issue--2001 Chrysler Sebring Lxi

I currently own a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Lxi. I am having an issue with the passenger side rear window. At this stage, the window is stuck in the down position, and I am sure it is the power window motor. I currently have the door panel taken off and was wondering what I needed to disable/screw apart to manually push the window back up until I can afford to have the motor replaced. As I said, I have the panel off, just need to know where to go from here. I had to do this with my last vehicle, 1995 Olds Aurora, and I cannot remember what I did and the set up looks a bit different. Just wanted to know exactly what to do so I don't mess up anything further. Thanks for your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Basics: I don't know this one specifically...... Do you have alternating pos and neg at the wires to the motor? Motor should operate by reversing polarity for up or down request. Most motors that fail still draw current and you can see that with key on engine off, request window to go up or down and look at an interior light to flicker or dim a bit as an easy way to know power is getting to it properly. If so - tap motor and it may go up and then can't really be trusted.

I'd even add power and ground separately to verify a bad motor going directly to its wiring.

Some are available as just a motor and some are part of a whole assy with who knows - nylon belt, wire and cable or whatever they did for this car. Some are pricey and best not to be wrong with this. If you are electric motor savy you probably can work on just the motor itself not generally serviceable on many now but you can and clean up inside and they'll behave again.

"Measure twice - cut once" as they say..........!

T

Response From linkingirl84

It is a simple motor, no cables or anything...as far as the wire thing goes, I have no idea how to go about doing that...maybe a more detailed explanation? I know there is a way to dismantle the motor and roll the window up manually I just need information on how to do so with this model. So if anyone knows how to do that or a detailed explanation on the wiring idea would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/Cpp13423.jpghttp://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2005/20050701_Auto_Care_page006img001.jpghttp://www.autozone.com/images/products/c15/c1542-446002.jpgCardone reman / Window Lift Motor
Warranty - LLT 42-446 Price: $43.99 Core: $23.00 Total: $66.99 Application: Passenger side Sedan Rear window Note: Window regulator sold separately. Supplied with gear______________________________________________

Ok: Been all over looking for pics of this. Above is a test light and a jumper wire. You need these to test for power and ground at the wiring going to the motor - see plug at bottom in pic of the motor. Unplug that and test for 12v pos+ to alternate wires with up or down request. Empower the clip of a test light with 12v neg - and test for alternating ground at the wire plug. Should be just two wires involved - if there's more tell me.

If that tests out ok then power is presumed making it to the motor and since it doesn't move the motor is suspect. Tap on the body of it (with small hammer) while requesting the "up" mode and it may snap to and go up. Cool but it isn't fixed with just that and motor should be replaced.

You won't be able to move the window with the motor in place. Not so easy with window down sometimes.

If power is not there at plug and alternating then unplug or find an upstream plug with exact same wire colors to isolate just the motor and with jumper wires and whatever is needed add your own power and ground to operate the window to at least get it up for now. With motor out if all is failing the window can be jockeyed up and a block of wood of some creation will hold it till you figure out what to do next.

Tell me what you find and let's go from there,

T

Response From linkingirl84

There is a current to the wires but I was unable to get the window up no matter how we did it. So at this point, how do I go about getting the motor off to manually put the window back up and getting the motor back on to keep it in the up position. Any information would be helpful..thank you!

Response From Tom Greenleaf



Ok: See the three holes near the gear. Those have bolts of some sort which hold the motor in. With window where it is can you get at them? You may need to get involved with removing the racking hardware to get to this - dunno first hand with ever one out there.

There's about a 99% chance this sucker will go up one more time if you plug in known good wiring that has demonstrated itself as proper by holding the window button "UP" and tap on the body of the motor with a small hammer. Have a helper pull up on glass, press window button for up and tap - bet it goes and it's a lot easier to deal with these when in the "up" position.....

T

1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From tlaw15 on 1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Ok I have a 1992 Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Avenue 3.8L it has 143k miles on it. I have a problem with my power windows and ac. My power windows no longer work and my ac doesn't blow anything not even heat. I recently had a problem with my ignition switch and it has been replaced just a few days ago. The problem with the windows and ac happened before I replaced my ignition switch and I was hoping that replacing the ignition switch would fix it but it didn't. Please help and any suggestions are appreciated. My local mechanic usually overcharges for everything thats why I'm trying to fix the problem before sending it to him.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Are all the power window inoperative? Do you have power to the window motor circuit breaker with the ignition turned on in the fuse panel? If you have power, you'll have to get to the driver's side window switch connectors and check for power to the switch on the TAN wire with the ignition on.

The blower motor is inoperative? (no air from vents?) Does this have automatic temperature control?

Response From tlaw15

thanks for the reply to the post i'm sorry it took me so long to get back to you but i been in a boot camp like training for a week. I have figured out the problem with it it was just a fuse for my blower motor and my rear window motor was blown.

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

____________________

Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL