802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Wheel Speed Sensor

Choose a Year for your Oldsmobile 's Wheel Speed Sensor

  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Pex
    Pex
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition
  • Vemo
    Vemo

Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Wheel Speed Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Standard Ignition
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Oldsmobile Replacement Wheel Speed Sensor Parts

We stock Wheel Speed Sensor parts for most Oldsmobile models, including Achieva, Bravada, Custom Cruiser, Cutlass, Cutlass Calais, Cutlass Supreme.

Dorman
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Right Dorman

P311-1294694    970-001  New

22591939 , 22591938 , ABS530381 , SU8239 , ALS204 , 5S7989 , 10456046 , ABS107 , 10456045

Qty:
$48.70
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Right
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Front Right
Dorman
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Left Dorman

P311-3CFE6ED    970-010  New

ABS590 , ALS480 , 5S10590 , 15997039 , SU12043

Qty:
$32.04
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Left
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front Left
Dorman
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Right Dorman

P311-3CFE6ED    970-010  New

ABS590 , ALS480 , 5S10590 , 15997039 , SU12043

Qty:
$32.04
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Right
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front Right
Dorman
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Left Dorman

P311-45F133B    970-002  New

10456046 , ABS106 , 10456045 , 22591938 , 22591939 , ABS530382 , ALS207 , 5S6739 , SU8239

Qty:
$49.05
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Left
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Front Left
Dorman
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Left Dorman

P311-21CDE42    970-005  New

084-4021 , 15727017 , ABS530458 , 5S10588 , SU12041 , ALS550 , 15674867 , ABS660 , 15707307 , 15648221

Qty:
$42.60
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Left
  • Includes Dust Shield Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front Left
Dorman
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Left Dorman

P311-28854A2    970-000  New

ABS109 , ALS209 , 10456013 , ABS530380 , SU9319 , 5S7853 , 10472134 , 10456036 , 10456116 , 1996744

Qty:
$24.38
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Left
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Front Left
Dorman
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Right Dorman

P311-30AE713    970-006  New

ABS659 , 5S10589 , SU12042 , 15648222 , 15674868 , ABS530457 , ALS549 , 15727018 , 15707308

Qty:
$41.30
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Right
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada AWD Front Right
Dorman
2000 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Dorman

P311-2905CDF    W0133-2730988  New

Qty:
$77.91
Dorman ABS Wheel Speed Sensor
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Standard Ignition
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Left Standard Ignition

P311-2B4FC56    ALS1337  New

20774193 , ABS1447 , SU9444 , 72-6550 , 15158254 , 5S7978 , 970-282 , 19303071

Qty:
$52.58
Standard Ignition ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Left
  • ABS Speed Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Mounting Location: Wheel
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • As a global manufacturer, we have complete control of the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product. Our ABS sensor line has complete coverage for domestic and import applications. Over 1500 ABS numbers cataloged – and growing. Our ABS sensors are engineered for precision performance, durability and a long service life. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front Left
Standard Ignition
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Front Right Standard Ignition

P311-2B4FC56    ALS1337  New

20774193 , ABS1447 , SU9444 , 72-6550 , 15158254 , 5S7978 , 970-282 , 19303071

Qty:
$52.58
Standard Ignition ABS Wheel Speed Sensor  Front Right
  • ABS Speed Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Mounting Location: Wheel
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • As a global manufacturer, we have complete control of the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product. Our ABS sensor line has complete coverage for domestic and import applications. Over 1500 ABS numbers cataloged – and growing. Our ABS sensors are engineered for precision performance, durability and a long service life. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front Right

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Wheel Speed Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Alero humming noise - ABS, Trac Off lights on

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From ez50nj on 2002 Alero humming noise - ABS, Trac Off lights on

I've had a humming/tire separation type noise for about 6 months when I decelerate to 30 mph. About 2 months ago the Trac Off, ABS, and Service Engine Soon lights came on. Private repair shop ran scanner which indicated excessive wheel spin. One code left front, 2 codes right front. Tech advised wheel bearings worn so I replaced both. Driving out of shop all three lights back on.

The car feels tighter, but I still get the humming noise when I decelerate to exactly 30 mph. In addition, I hear a droning/whining noise right at 50 mph.

Any ideas besides the front wheel bearings?

car has 138K miles, tracks straight down the road, and has no steering wheel shimmie.

Response From Discretesignals

You should take it back. Could be they missed something, or maybe even a defective part, which isn't unusual with the cheaper brand of hub bearings.

The droning noises could be from the tires. Cupped or chopped tires can make those noises too. It is also important that the tires are all the same size because that will cause WSS codes to pop up.

Response From ez50nj

noises gone after 2 front hub bearings changed, but abs/trac off/svc eng. soon lights come on quickly when:

1. Back out of driveway in reverse, switch to drive and accelerate
2. Turn wheel full right or full left when engine first started and car not moved

Being that the the car drove perfectly before the hub bearings replaced and the humming and droning noises persisted until the tires were rotated, I conclude that

-The warning lights were not a result of worn hub bearings
-The noise was eliminated by rotating tires side to side on front and rear respectively

***All I can theorize is that looking back in time, we had a sweeping all day rain storm about a month prior to hurricane Sandy. Not a typical vertical downpour, but a swirling nor'easter sweeping rain. I'm wondering if the female leads that plug into the hub got soaked and need to be cleaned and dried out?

***Or, because I have inner wear on both rear tires, could excessive wheel spin from inner rear worn tires triggering the sensors to throw on the lights and DE-activate the ABS and Traction Control?

I'm due for inspection in 2/2013 and will fail inspection with lights on, and want to sell car shortly after, but need lights off, fresh inspection sticker, and functional abs and trac control. Don't want to pour alot of money into car as the paint and body are near perfect and power train is strong. 11 year old Alero presents itself better that most for age and mileage. 2002 GX Coupe with 138K on clock I could hold out for a while and get 2200-2500 if dummy lights off.

Ideas?

Thanks

Response From Sidom

I just breezed thru this so if it has already been mentioned...than.....oops but I'll toss in my 2 cents.....

I know on most GM systems when there is a drivability problem it will automatically disable the traction control & steering stability systems....I see there is a service engine soon light......That needs to be taken care of 1st..

What is the code for the SES?

Response From ez50nj

after 3-4 months with trac off/abs/svc engine soon. Lights are out and car runs fine. Gunning in reverse then forward might be sending stronger signal to abs module? abs humming/activation sometimes kicks on starting out then goes away

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Subject: ABS Front Wheel Speed Codes Jumper Harness - kw booster brake C1221 C1222 C1223 C1225 C1226 C1232 C1233 C1252 C1253 caliper DTC EBTCM electrical grab ground hydraulic hydroboost #PI00966B - (04/19/2004)

Models: .


When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms. Condition/Concern:
91 - 05 JB, NB, or LB vehicles may set any one or a combination of front wheel speed sensor ABS codes as intermittent or hard failures. Recommendation/Instructions:
If after inspection and diagnosis, using the applicable trouble tree(s), the cause of the fault is not readily identified, the most probable cause is often the wheel speed sensor jumper harness. Oftentimes, the harness checks good with the J 39200 fluke meter but will not function correctly when subjected to suspension movement, vibration, and flexing. Seldom will the above condition be corrected by the replacement of the EBCM. The listed part numbers are leads that incorporate a highly flexible "angel hair" that reduces down to standard gauge wire so that it may be properly spliced into the existing circuit. Standard gauge wire should not be used in place of these part numbers.
YEAR
Left
Right
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE--J BODY
92
12140077
12140078
93*
12128505
12128504
or 12140077 (Jumper Harness)
or 12140078
***NOTE***93 J-Body had 2 designs available -- a conventional "splice-in" design" or a complete 2-wire jumper harness. Inspect vehicle to determine which design is needed.
94
12128505 jumper harness
12128504 jumper harness
95-05
12187091(same P/N, Left or Right)
Note: Visually Inspect the wheel speed sensor harness connectors and yellow wire to see if it is unseated from the connector. This is especially important on the left hand side. If the wiring is faulty, replace the harness with the above part numbers.
12187091
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE - N BODY
91
12091371(same P/N, Left or Right)
12091371
92-98
12140077
12140078
99-05
12167654
12167653
P-90 (97-03 MALIBU/ CUTLASS and 04 CHEV CLASSIC):
97-04
12167654
12167653
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE--L BODY
92-96
12140077
12140078
.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms. Models:
(1992-2005 CHEVROLET CAVALIER) and (1992-1994 PONTIAC SUNBIRD) and (1995-2005 PONTIAC SUNFIRE) and (1991-2005 PONTIAC GRAND AM) and (1991 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CALAIS) and (1991-1998 BUICK SKYLARK) AND (1992-1998 OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA) AND (1999-2004 OLDSMOBILE ALERO) AND (1997-2003 CHEVROLET MALIBU) AND (2004 CHEVROLET CLASSIC) AND (1997-1999 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS) AND (1992-1996 CHEVROLET BERETTA) AND (1992-1996 CHEVROLET CORSICA)
.

Response From ez50nj

new twist. DID NOT replace jumper harness. Just to experiment, I reversed out of driveway aggressively and accelerated hard and lights did not come on. I did get ABS activation/humming while at speed (not braking) for a few days, now it sometimes activates at the end of the trip when I park.

Could be signal disruption from jumper harness to ABS module/ECM? I'm not going to chase it down with $$$ if lights don't come on.

Thoughts?

Response From ez50nj

Great info. Thanks. I'm not mechanically inclined, so if I went to a private shop what do you estimates parts and labor would be to install Jumper Harness?

Interesting new observations/ habits

Lights first came on 2 months ago after first start of day after major rainstorm the night before.When I put car in reverse and turned wheel to left (now activates left or right turn reverse or forward on first turn of day.

Lately, I've tries this experiment: Once lights come on, I drive a few feet, turn off engine, then re-start and the lights stay off for my entire 20 mile trip to work. I stop, put it in park - no lights (ABS/Traction work BTW when lights are off). When I leave work and lights pop on, I do same step. Turn off, re-start and no lights. I make stops at many lights and stop signs on the way home and lights never come on.

THE CRAZY THING IS THAT WHEN I REACH MY DESTINATION (HOME), THE LIGHTS COME ON AS I PULL INTO MY DRIVEWAY BEFORE I STOP CAR AND ENGAGE IN "PARK". It's a slow left turn and uphill, so maybe that's why the lights don't pop on when I'm on the highway ay high speeds making sharp turns.

Is it possible the memory codes remember the incline and surface of my driveway and would trigger lights while car is coasting toward garage???
Again, if I simulate the "coming home driveway incline thing" out on the road I cannot trigger the lights?

Response From ez50nj

new twist:

Lights ALWAYS COME ON first start of day - reverse and turning wheel either way. I researched and tried this:

- seat belt not engaged
-key to 'on' until chime stops
-repeat again twice to 'on' position

Start car - reverse-turn right or left-no lights and ABS and Traction work.

Am I clearing codes with the key in 'on' position 3 times?

Response From Double J

When i read your concern,the first thing that came to mind was the Jumper Harnesses.
We've replaced a ton of them for this type concern.

I'm not saying this is your problem because we're not there to perform any diagnostics on it.

* Your best bet is to take it to your trusted shop and have them diagnose it for you.*
You can mention the TSB to your shop,maybe they didn't check for bulletins and aren't aware of it.
Maybe they did and it doesn't apply

Do you know what codes are being set?

If you're looking for an internet diagnosis,then replace the Jumper harnesses.
They are a known problem.

I know what approx. it should go for but i wont say,i'll let the shop tell you what they expect for the repair.
You can always call around for estimates.

Response From ez50nj

You're theory and the TSB sound about right. I'm in no rush to do it until I sell the car next spring. Thanks for the feedback!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If these tires are that screwed up they alone can and will cause ABS/Trac Control to get lousy input. Plain rain mentioned even hard and driven unless it flooded the car should dry out.

Tires may still be legal for wear but have to match. Seems they have already caused hub/bearings to be blamed so pay attention to tires. No feature a vehicle can have for traction for stopping, steering or going can be any better than the tires that touch the road,

T

Response From ez50nj

paragraph 2--you hit it on the head. Brought it back. Had codes. I asked them to swap two front tires and two rear tires (not front to rear, just left to right swap on front and rear). Droning gone at 50 mph/wobble noise at 30 gone. No Trac off or ABS lights on. One of the L/R tires has minor inner wear and cupping so that might have triggered an "excessive wheel spin code"

Thanks for the feedback!

codes c1225,c1232

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From jima4624 on codes c1225,c1232

i have a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue and i have 2 codes showing up left front wheel sensor codes c1225,c1232 i check the harness and looks good i ohm out the sensor and it feel into specs and check the ac out put of the sensor and it was over 100mlv so any help would be great thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Those tests really don't rule anything out. I have see a number of problems with the harnesses that are impossible to verify visually. It can also be an issue with the wheel bearing or tone ring.

Response From jima4624

i pealed the harness back and i look good to me took the rotor off and i didnt see any thing bent broken or any thing that look bad to me any way the the scaner i have is a innova 3160 i should of went for the better scaner but i cheeped out it will not check speed sensors any were eles i can check thanks

Response From Discretesignals

Watch this vid. Danner shows a good way to check circuit integrity.




Response From jima4624

ok i did what the vid did and no problem but i am not getting more than 5 v to the sensor its 4.35 and when i plug it into the sensor it only reads 0.18v so i went and got a better scaner that can read all 4 wheel sensors and they all read the same but if you turn the car off and start it again no lights and the scaner shows abs relay on but the second you put it in gear the lights come back on and the scaner shows abs relay off any help would be graet thanks

Response From Discretesignals

If you read around 4.0-5.0 volts of bias and it goes to 0 volts when you plug the abs sensor in, you have a short to ground. It is either in the sensor itself or the wiring going back to the EBCM. I would use an ohm meter to make sure your ABS sensor isn't shorted internally to ground.

Response From jima4624

ok so i ohm out the wheel sensor to ground and see if i gives me a reading if i put the meter on eather one of the wheel sensor pins and it show 000 on the meter that means the wheel sensor is going to ground

Response From Discretesignals

Right. If you touch the housing with one lead and either pin with the other lead it is shows continuity you have a short to ground.

Response From jima4624

ok it showed ground put a new hub on and no light so its all good thanks for your help

Response From jima4624

ok ill give that a try thanks

Response From jima4624

i looked all over youtube for a vid like this i could not find it i o you a beer thanks

Response From jima4624

i looked all over you tube for a vid on this and never seen this one if this works i o you a beer thanks

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I agree. I would pursue the circuit code, if it comes back, first because that is indicating the EBCM is detecting an open or short in the wheel speed sensor circuit. The EBCM actually sends a small amount of voltage through the circuit to test the intrigrity of the circuit. You can use that voltage to troubleshoot the circuit. Another thing that people forget to check is the terminal tension in the connectors. People shove test leads into the terminals can bend the tangs causing a connection problem. Often times you'll run into problems with the harness breaking inside. Sometimes the insulation can get tiny cracks from age and moisture can cause issues. That's why sometimes they have you spray a salty water solution to find problems. Salt makes water more conductive.

Response From Discretesignals

Clear the trouble codes. Drive the vehicle. Which one comes back?

If you have a scan tool that can access the ABS controller, look at the LF wheel speed PID and see what it is reading while driving above 3 mph.

1995 Olds Cutlass Ciera - Cruise Control head-scratcher (with bonus issues!)

Showing 9 out of 13 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From spongebue on 1995 Olds Cutlass Ciera - Cruise Control head-scratcher (with bonus issues!)

Hey guys,

First off, here's the standard car info, even if some of it is probably not relevant:

1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL
3.1L V6 Engine
~95,000 miles (not bad, eh? :P )

So, the main thing that's been bugging me is the Cruise Control. Not only because it doesn't work when I want it to, but by gawd, I've tested (and replaced) just about everything. It really should work. Here's my story: (I know some things may seem out of order, but some of it is based on ideas I had at the time or lack thereof)

  • Brian finds out Cruise Control is working
  • Brian checks to see if there is a cruise fuse in the glove compartment fuse box (didn't see one)
  • Brian finds Alldata flowchart on repairing cruise unit:
  • If speedo doesn't work, replace vehicle speed sensor. Otherwise, check for about 5 volts on Pin K of the cruise module (I thought this was main power to the module, and was surprised when I still got power with it switched off inside)
  • Got about 7.2 volts (which goes to about 8 when the engine is started)
  • If not 5 volts, check for open circuit for pin K
  • During a trip to a junkyard, Brian found a "new" cruise module as well as switch, only $9 each
  • Brian replaces his parts with junkyard parts
  • Brian is increasingly upset at this, and thinks he has a wiring issue
  • Brian talks in the third person to relieve this stress
  • Brian gives up for a while, but then lives in a dorm in the summer time in a college town, with little else to do but look at his car again
  • Brian finds a book at the library with testing instructions on just about every pin for this cruise unit
  • All tests work for Brian, aside from the voltage issue on the VSS
  • Brian does a test that seems to be a diagnostic test for the cruise, involving the parking brake, regular brake, set button, and R/A. A bad speed sensor connection will cause it to rev a bit, a bad cruise module will have it do nothing
  • The engine revved, but very slightly. Something you'd expect when releasing the brake and putting slightly less stress on the engine
  • Thinking he may have gotten a bad junkyard cruise control module, Brian tried once more with a second one at a different junkyard
  • Still no dice
  • Brian gets very frustrated, and posts here

  • Ok, maybe I went a little overboard with that, sorry . Other problems I have (I'll be more brief about this) in case anyone has ideas:
    Temperature gauge is not working, not the sending unit at fault (tried shorting that spot with a paper clip, which simulates a hot engine with a low resistence. The needle stayed there. Before, it'd indicate a very hot engine for a couple seconds, usually when I'd be accelerating. Then it died completely (that, or I've had a very cold engine for a long time now

    Finally, the ABS is no good. Light goes on after I drive a few feet, though it takes a little longer when I'm going in reverse. I think it's a wheel speed sensor (dad may have done a scan, I forget for sure). Problem is, it's built into the wheel bearing, I think it was, so it's a pain to replace. If anyone has other ideas of what it could be, I'm all for ideas.

    Thanks a lot, guys! If anyone can successfully say what's wrong and is in the Minneapolis/Western Wisconsin area, I swear I'll buy you a 6-pack or something :P

    -Brian

    Response From spongebue

    Boy, thanks for the tip, above poster robot thing! I'll be sure never to check it out.

    Anyway, update to the story, continued entirely in third-person bullet points as you folks seemed to enjoy.

  • Brian decides that it must be the gauge at fault, based on his test with jumping the temperature sending unit connector with a paper clip not doing anything
  • Brian replaces gauge with a new one (again from the junkyard, $4 + $2 admission)
  • Brian turns key to run position, and the gauge changes position majorly
  • This greatly excites Brian, though in a clean non-sexual way (not that big of a car junky, sorry to say
  • He then corrects the needle's position to point to a more logical position, since the engine was cold
  • When Brian drove around, the gauge didn't move any more, just when the key was turned and it had time to move a bit since the last startup
  • Getting fed up with this, Brian pulls out the instrument panel (for a second time after replacing the gauge) and solders a few wires to the gauge (thank god for alldata and some schematics laying around) to simulate a normal environment
  • 12 volts and ground applied to their respective places; temperature input going to ground via a potentiometer
  • Test was successful, the gauge worked fine (being able to turn that potentiometer and control the gauge is more fun than it should be, and Brian's dad agrees)
  • Brian checks for continuity between the wire on the sending unit connector and where it ends up when connecting to the instrument panel; all is good.
  • Knowing that all connections seem solid up to the temperature sending unit, Brian has no other choice but to replace that
  • His dad said he tried that already, but started to question himself the more he talked. Even for Brian's dad, this is unusual
  • Brian's dad replaces the sensor (it's in too awkward of a place for Brian to do on his own, but his dad is a former mechanic)
  • He has enough trouble doing so that he admits that he would have remembered doing it if it were so difficult.
  • Brian drives 100 miles back to school in Wisconsin, and sees the temperature gauge creep up the more he drives, right up to a point just before the halfway marker.
  • Brian is happy to have 2 problems taken care of (albeit one mysteriously) with one more to go
  • Next up, cruise control once and for all. I realized that I copied the section from the J-body, rather than A-body, which uses a very similar (but not quite the same) system... They're in the same grouping in the book, but when it comes to detailed instructions, A-body comes first. Why they put the J-body schematic right before the A-body, which is on the page after, I have no idea. Anyway, I'm going to look at every connection, make sure it's all clear, and highlight each part I examine until there's nothing left. With a little (ok, a LOT) of luck, this will be done (and working) before I go to Indiana on Thursday. 500 mile trip each way with no cruise control. I've done it before, not fun.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    Brian; You didn't mention stopping for a beer. That's where you went wrong. Enjoyed your story! Sorry, can't add any wisdom to it!

    Response From spongebue

    Well, unfortunately, I only turned 21 a couple weeks ago. Ahem, I'm not going to comment about whether or not that's actually stopped me

    Response From Double J

    Double J has a thought!

    Check the High Level Stop Lamp ..If its inoperative,it will keep the cruise control from working ..at least on some GM models it does,not sure on this one....

    Response From spongebue

    High level stop lamp? You mean, the top brake light? (I'm probably way off, but that's the best I can think of). I actually checked those for an unrelated reason a few months ago, well after I had cruise control issues. Or wait, do you mean the one in the back window? That I have not checked in, well, ever. Hmmm...

    Response From Double J

    Yes,the one in the back window....could be as simple as a blown bulb(s)

    Let us know

    Response From spongebue

    Well, I'll be damned, that light isn't turning on (I'm assuming it's tied in with the regular brake lights, which are on... I just used something to hold down the brake without having the car in motion)

    brb, Wal Mart (hoping they have the bulb, otherwise O'Reilly tomorrow)

    Response From spongebue Top Rated Answer

    Good news: That set of lights now works just fine, and I'm less likely to be rear-ended by someone.

    Bad news: No luck with the cruise.

    Would it help you guys any if I scanned the set of schematics I have, maybe a transcript of the troubleshooting steps?

    Response From spongebue

    I know I only barely mentioned the issue, but kinda strange thing happened to me today. I was trying to make a left arrow, so I sped up a little bit, took the turn a little fast. As I did that, I could swear I heard the noise from the dash that I always hear when the ABS light comes on. I looked down, and the light was off. Maybe it was off prior to that, I didn't really notice (hard to notice problems that are always there )

    Anyway, I thought it was either a lucky fluke, or a burned out bulb. When I arrived at my destination a few blocks later, I shut off the engine and tried again. It turned on for the bulb test, then off. Ok, that's not uncommon, usually it comes on after a few feet. I drove a few feet more. And a few feet more. That light still didn't come on. I've since driven maybe 10 miles, and it seems like the car just wanted attention this whole time. I haven't really been able to truly test it in summer, but if the light is off there's not much I can do, right?

    Now, if only the same thing would happen with the cruise control and temperature gauge :P

    Response From Double J

    May have been fixed with the CHMSL bulb replacement. (Center High Mount Stop Lamp).



    You mentioned Dad may have scanned for codes?Does he remember the code(s)?

    Response From Double J

    On the Temp Gauge...you sure you checked the correct switch?

    There should be a Temperature Switch for the gauge and a Coolant Temperature Sensor for the computer.

    Response From spongebue

    IF my dad did test it (I honestly can't remember if this was an educated guess or he did an actual scan) it was the wheel speed sensor. I honestly have my doubts that it was the stop lamp that did it, since I do remember it being on right after that. I remember reading (I think this was on a '95 Ciera) that if there is no ABS trouble code given 100 times when the car goes at least 10MPH, it will essentially do a reset on that system and the light will go off. My dad worked on the regular brakes about a month ago, maybe he accidentally did something that took care of it? I know it's a little farfetched, but 100 starts since then does sound about right.

    As for the temp gauge, it wasn't me that tested it directly, to be honest. My roommate's friend is a mechanic by trade, and he's pretty familiar with GMs. He's the one that found the spot and shorted it, I turned the key and checked it. I would think that if it were the sensor for the computer that we got, it would flash a temperature warning light, wouldn't it? Even still, I later found out that my dad already tried replacing it. (handy guy, he is )