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Beck Arnley
1999 Acura CL Wheel Seal - Front Inner 4 Cyl 2.3L Beck Arnley

P311-50D4733    052-3456  New

Qty:
9.63
Beck Arnley Wheel Seal  Front Inner
  • SEAL WHEEL
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • HOUSING BORE MM: 58.5
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
    • OVERALL WIDTH WITH SIDE LIP MM: 11
    • SHAFT DIAMETER MM: 43
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Acura CL Front Inner L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2254
Beck Arnley
1999 Acura CL Wheel Seal - Front Outer 4 Cyl 2.3L Beck Arnley

P311-33830A8    052-3455  New

Qty:
8.92
Beck Arnley Wheel Seal  Front Outer
  • SEAL WHEEL
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • HOUSING BORE MM: 55
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
    • OVERALL WIDTH WITH SIDE LIP MM: 10.8
    • SHAFT DIAMETER MM: 40
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Acura CL Front Outer L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2254

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

03 astro van intermittent low pedal

Showing 10 out of 13 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From meev182 on 03 astro van intermittent low pedal

2003 chevy astro van
4.3l v6 2wd
4 wheel disc brakes w/ hydroboost

rr wheel seal was leaking so i changed rear wheel seals, serviced the rear end, and replaced all the pads and rotors.

i have an intermittent low pedal before and after service. low pedal only happens when vehicle is not running. goes to the floor for one or two pumps, then its fine. no issues with braking while driving. no brake light on in the instrument cluster.

it always acts up if i pump the brake pedal hard with vehicle running then i turn it off. hte first pump or two always go to the floor. if i do that, turn it off, dont touch the brake pedal, then start it, pedal is fine.

any ideas? ebcm? master cylinder? i dont think its the hydroboost...this is not normal for a hydroboost set up, correct?

thanks in advance for your help :o)

Response From Hammer Time

any ideas? ebcm? master cylinder? i dont think its the hydroboost...this is not normal for a hydroboost set up, correct?

How about something done wrong in the brake job?

Response From meev182

problem existed before and after. all slides and pins were cleaned and all calipers retracted fine. i pinched off all the hoses and the problem still exists. i also bled the brakes to make sure there wasnt air in the system.

Response From Hammer Time

If you pinched off all 4 wheels and still can't get a pedal, replace the master.

Response From meev182

If you pinched off all 4 wheels and still can't get a pedal, replace the master.

wouldnt a master cylinder show its self at all times? like i said, it only does it intermittently with the car off...pedal is fine while driving at all times.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All times - NO,

T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

i have an intermittent low pedal before and after service. low pedal only happens when vehicle is not running. goes to the floor for one or two pumps

This appears to be normal operation of a vacuum brake booster. Your pedal is going to go down a couple pumps before you exhaust the vacuum from the booster with the engine not running.

Response From Hammer Time

This appears to be normal operation of a vacuum brake booster.

Yeah it would be. Problem is that this is not vacuum boost. It's hydroboost.

Response From Discretesignals

I can't remember if hydroboost does the same thing. It does have an accumulator.

Response From Hammer Time

Hydroboost actually acts the way his is, just the opposite of vacuum. Vacuum boost drops the pedal when activated, hydroboost lifts the pedal when activated so he may not have a problem at all.

Response From Sidom

I think you're right D....On a hydro-boost system when you press on the pedal & it will go all the way to the floor and then the pedal will "bounce" while your holding it down.

If the pedal is going to the floor with very little pressure & doesn't bounce it may be a bypassing master cylinder.
If the op retracted the pistons without opening the bleeders it's possible he trashed his master.....

If the van is new to him, then he probably isn't use to the system.....If he's had the van for a while a now it "seems different" I would be tempted to put a master on it....

Response From meev182

If the pedal is going to the floor with very little pressure & doesn't bounce it may be a bypassing master cylinder.
If the op retracted the pistons without opening the bleeders it's possible he trashed his master.....

If the van is new to him, then he probably isn't use to the system.....If he's had the van for a while a now it "seems different" I would be tempted to put a master on it....

i didnt open the bleeders but i've done hundreds of brake jobs without opening the bleeders...never once had a problem doing it that way. the van is not mine, but the pedal was the same before and after (except the fact it stops better and the pedal is a little higher because of the new brake pads). as of now im going to leave it how it is...truck stops fine. very weird though!

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear everything is working good for you... Since the van isn't yours, this makes sense. If you haven't done too many of these units its a common mistake since on a normal hydro-boost system you can get the pedal to go all the way to the floor with a little force



i didnt open the bleeders but i've done hundreds of brake jobs without opening the bleeders...never once had a problem doing it that way.
On stuff like this you aren't going to get a problem everytime. If people did then no one would be doing it. The problem is, is that it only takes once to take out a master or ABS hydraulic unit. When you retract the piston without opening a bleeder, you are forcing fluid backwards thru systems that weren't designed to have fluid flow in that directions. Plus if you have ever looked at the condition of the fluid that is in the caliper, that would be another good reason to open a bleeder, it's dirty and black from all the heat and you are pushing that fluid back into the system. It's better to remove it and replace it with clean fluid. Not to mention it also makes it easier to retract the piston. It's kinda the same as when a guy says that he likes to pull a battery cable to check the alternator with the car running. He's not going to have a problem everytime but alls its takes is one surge to wipe out some expensive modules.... But it sounds like all is good and you are thorough enough to check your work & not let a problem go and that is a very good thing... Have a good weekend...

1993 suburban breaking problem

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From bambam70 on 1993 suburban breaking problem

my suburbans brakes lock up (sometimes) fast or slow. the front tires slide. i replaced the pads, there is no scoring or marks on the rotors. i checked for antilock brakeing codes, not any.. please help

Response From Hammer Time

What do you mean by lock up?
Does the wheel skid when stopping? Does the ABS kick in. Do the brakes hold and not release?

Response From bambam70

this started, just after i had a new transmission instaled. 1 problem after another. im wondering if the trans shop might have not pluged something back in properly that they had to take loose.

Response From Hammer Time

There is nothing electric that can cause that. Which wheel is doing it?
Does the truck have 4 wheel ABS?

Response From bambam70

yes 4 wheel abs. both front wheels. if it were pulling to one side, that would make more since. but its both. and it does'nt do it every time. but it is doing it more often.

Response From Hammer Time

That could be a master cylinder problem but the ABS should be preventing the locking up from happening. I assume the ABS light is not on.
Is this vacuum assist or hydroboost?

Response From bambam70

no, abs light is not on. and no abs codes. thats why im confused. the abs should stop the lock-up, but it isnt. but the fact that it does'nt do it every time leads me to belive it may be the abs board. id like to belive it is'nt, thats expensive. i dont want to replace it if im not sure, that, is, what it is. thot maybe the back brakes might not be working proper, putting to much stress on the front brakes, but the ABS should still keep lock-up from happening.

Response From Hammer Time

I really have doubts if that truck is equipped with 4 wheel ABS. The system goes through a self test every time the key is turned on so you may have rear wheel only ABS.

Response From nickwarner

Have you checked the rear brakes to rule out seized wheel cylinders? For a vehicle this old its possible.

Response From bambam70 Top Rated Answer

would'nt a seized wheel seal make it do it all the time tho ?

Response From nickwarner

if the rear wheel cylinders are seized up they won't move to engage the brakes and the fronts will be the only ones generating braking force.

Response From bambam70

yep, both rear wheel cylinders were leaking, rear brakes wer'nt workin at all. prob fixed now. thanks.

Response From nickwarner

Glad to hear you got it going again. Thanks for posting the fix.

Response From bambam70

rear wheel seals are leaking. saturating the pads. thier not working at all, so now i get to take the diff apart and pull the wheel hubs out. fun fun. hope this fixes it. i'll let ya'll kno. thank you and god bless.

Response From bambam70

its a vacume power booster. if the master cylinder was bad ? would'nt it do it every time? and if its supplying to much fluid pressure, should'nt the ABS regulate that, and interupt it ? thot thats what they do.

Response From bambam70

the wheels slide, the brakes release after you let up on the pedal. no holding. they'll slide even if its moving slowly. so its not the hoses.