Shop Discount Wheel Hubs

I need to remove the rear wheel hub on a 2000 dodge neon. I thought it would be like the last car i worked on where it just has a finger tight nut and a cotter pin to hold it on, but it turns out dodge has the hub and bearing as one assembly. I was wondering what size nut holds it on? and what is the torque specs for when i reninstall it?

Thanks

Jim; The torque spec is 160 ft.lbs. I couldn't find out what size socket you'll need, though. Sorry.

Well i know its bigger than 11/8, guess i'll just have to wing it on the size. Thanks for the help Loren.

When I went for a wheel alignment on my 1988 Toyota Tercel EZ hatchback, 1.5 l engine, with 62,300 miles, the service station said the alignment could not be performed because of movement in the rear wheels that indicated the rear wheel hubs were problematic. They suggested replacement.

Does this sound reasonable, given the age and mileage of the car? What if I did not have the wheel hubs replaced? Does/should the operation include replacing any bearings? How much labor (hours) should this entail? I will get 3 or 4 estimates.

I like this old, functioning, gas efficient, low maintenance Tercel, so please don't advise not wasting money on it.

I'm not sure what they found out of spec in rear of this but the rear hub is much like a common trailer on this with VERY inexpensive inner and outer bearings in each. They may need repacking and adjustment if still ok and very well could be.

Should be adjustable! Perhaps a tech didn't look close enough to know this shouldn't be using a sealed unit "hub" with bearing pressed in it type - look again.





Four of these in all. Not expensive and shouldn't be that tricky,

T

Thanks, Tom. I'm not up to speed in auto repair terminology, so I hope I can ask for clarification. If I understand, the whole hub doesn't need replacing; and a hub with bearings sealed inside would be the wrong type anyhow. What I need is either to have the current inner and outer bearings repacked and adjusted, or have new bearings packed. But even before repacking, the tech should try to adjust the bearings. Is that correct?

The shop did not give me the kind of printout of the alignment specs that I usually get after each alignment because they said they could not perform an alignment at all, given the condition of the "hubs". Though I haven't noticed any problem when I drive. But thanks again for the further clarification. Now I know what to talk about when I go back to shops for estimates.

To add a note; If the wheel bearings are bad, and have been run too long, it is possible that the hubs are damaged. If the bearing race has spun in the hub, the new race won't fit tight. But, removal and inspection will be required to make this call.

I know I'm beating this horse to death but this is NBD! The whole damn drum and hub with new races is just $28.99 ea. and use old or buy just the bearings needed if at all - can't say for low mile Tercel of the age - they didn't hold up well here against rust - not much does.

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IT WILL SHOW FUNNY BELOW BUT THE DRUM IS THE HUB AS SHOWN:

Beck Arnley / Brake Drum - Rear for a 1988 Toyota Tercel About this product: Part Number: 080-2069 Weight: 9.65 lbs. Warranty: 3 MO Note: 2 dr. sedan; 3 dr. hatchback; 5 dr. hatchback; 2 required. Pricing: $28.99
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You can check that yourself - it's direct from Autozone.

True - prices vary by brand, location and exact store. Shops mark up parts to retail price.

Something tells me with the age and miles it doesn't need more than a repack of rear bearings and then go for an alignment.

A repack is a separate service IMO. Just setting/adjusting them properly should be included in cost of alignments! Always was!

T

I have a 1999 Kia Sportage that I just put rear brakes on. Does anyone know the touque of the four nuts that hold the hub on ? I know they were really tight when I removed them and would like to retighten them to the proper touque. Thanks for you intrest and your time Huffy

ASSEMBLY
If axle is to be replaced, replace with complete assembly.

1. Slide oil seal retainer, oil seal, and wheel bearing on axle shaft.
2. Install new lock nut onto new lock washer.

1. If removed, place backing plate/brake assembly on four bolts at end of axle housing.
2. Insert the axle shaft assembly into the axle housing. Take care not to damage oil seal.
3. Move axle back and forth until axle spline mates with differential side gear spline. Make sure holes in oil seal retainer flange fit over axle housing bolts.

1. Install four nuts onto axle housing nuts.

1. Install brake drum with four nuts.
2. Install wheels and lower vehicle.

Hammer Time just wanred to thank you for the info this site never let's me down Huffy

You're welcome