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Centric
Qty:
$16.46
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • Centric Premium Wheel Cylinder
  • Premium Wheel Cylinder-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders; Brake Hoses; Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Toyota Sienna Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.68
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Rear Brake Position
2013 - Toyota Yaris LE Drum Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$9.68
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1991 - Toyota Celica GT Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$10.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1988 - Toyota Corolla Sedan Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$10.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1987 - Toyota Corolla LE Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$10.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Manuf. Body Code Position
1984 - Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 Rear
Centric
Qty:
$10.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; 319mm Front Disc Fr 11/95 Front Caliper Casting# S13WM
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Toyota 4Runner Rear
Centric
Qty:
$10.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; 319mm Front Disc Front Caliper Casting# S13WM
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Toyota 4Runner Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.68
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; To 11/97
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1997 - Toyota Celica ST Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$9.68
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; To 11/97
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1997 - Toyota Celica ST Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$14.52
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Toyota Sienna Rear
Advics
2002 Toyota 4Runner Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -07/31/2002, with 16" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2002 - Toyota 4Runner SR5 To:07-31-02
Advics
2000 Toyota 4Runner Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 08/01/2000-, with 16" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota 4Runner SR5 Fr:08-01-00
Advics
2002 Toyota Tacoma Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 09/01/2002-, 7/8" - with 6-Lug
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Toyota Tacoma Fr:09-01-02
Advics
2000 Toyota 4Runner Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 08/01/2000-
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota 4Runner Limited Fr:08-01-00
Advics
2002 Toyota 4Runner Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -07/31/2002
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2002 - Toyota 4Runner Limited To:07-31-02
Advics
2004 Toyota Tacoma Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-0BF544B    W0133-1803826  New

Qty:
$44.76
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; 7/8" - with 6-Lug
  • Rear
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Toyota Tacoma
Advics
2008 Toyota Yaris Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-24AD8D8    W0133-1747815  New

Qty:
$44.83
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Toyota Yaris
Advics
2004 Toyota Corolla Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-24AD8D8    W0133-1747815  New

Qty:
$44.83
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Japan Made Models
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Toyota Corolla
Advics
2004 Toyota Corolla Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Advics

P311-24AD8D8    W0133-1747815  New

Qty:
$44.83
Advics Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; North American Made Models.
Brand: Advics
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Toyota Corolla

Latest Toyota Repair and Wheel Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

brakes locking up

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From mudtwig on brakes locking up

1994 Toyota Pickup 4 cylinder 152000 miles

Any ideas?
I just bought this truck, and it was running fine during the test drive. The previous owner replaced the drivers side, rear bearings.
When I brought the truck home, it was good. But the next day, when I attempted to drive it, that rear wheel would not budge, so
I put it in reverse, and moved forward and it was good to go.
Occasionally that rear wheel would lock up, but also when I would come to a complete stop, the brake would catch and grab abruptly,
making that rear wheel skid out, and only that one wheel. The locking up is not as bad as it was before, but that brake still catches
now and then.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

mudtwig; Remove the brake drum on that wheel. I'm pretty sure you'll find that the brake lining is saturated with gear oil from the axle seal leaking. If you're lucky, you may be able to clean the linings and brake drum with Brake Clean or denatured alchohol. Worse case, you'll have to replace the linings and clean the drum and backing plate.
(I'm assuming that it isn't wheel cylinder leakage).

Response From mudtwig

Thanks alot for your reply, I appreciate it.....
Any idea, why this happened right after the bearings had been replaced?

Response From way2old

Sorry to jump Loren. More than likely the previous owner did not replace the shoes or clean all the grease out of the drum or shoe lining. If the shoes were saturated, the lining would swell and could cause the problem.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

W2O; Gosh, don't ever hesitate. Between Capt. Morgan and Maker's Mark, we'll figure it out!

Response From way2old

I would pull the brake drum and look to see id in fact the axle seal has been replaced. If seal is new and dry, replace the shoes and drum. The rear endgrease will permeate the metal in the drum causing it to glaze and have no place for the braks shoe to grip.

Hey Loren, Sister and daughter like Capt. Morgan. Got Tom to try a little Makers also.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sister and daughter like Capt. Morgan? Glad to hear that there's some class in your family! Just kidding.

Response From way2old

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You guys are too funny!

To add my opinion on gear oil on brakes: If that saturates the linings I've never found a solvent to really clean them out so new is the only route.

Gear oil in a drum on linings can shift between grabby to no friction - weird and makes a glaze that might need to be machined off of a good drum or replace them too. I swear some metal is porous enough to absorb some of the oil and really won't wash off well and machining might not last and start the issue all over again,

T

Response From mudtwig

So it there a possibility, that this is not a axle seal leak?
Could this just be a messy brake drum?

brake light on

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From lisab on brake light on

I have a 1994 toyota camry stationwagon and about 1 week ago.. my brake light came on. i put fluid in it and it went off.. yesterday the light came back on... and its really irritating.. sometimes when i stop smell like something rubbery is burning...could someone out there please help!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Of course this is VERY important to take care of right away!!

Brakes don't normally consume brake fluid. Level will drop as they wear and brake pistons are self adjusted that way in calipers. Drum brake wheel cylinders don't displace much if any fluid. You front brakes are disc and possibly with rear drum brakes.

If brakes feel good it's probably a leak to be found ASAP - they don't heal!

If a brake is dragging car would pull left or right - mostly if in the front - and could boil fluid and it might overflow at the reservoir. You should see that and would have a real soft pedal feel while boiling hot.

If you as said smell this it could be leaking on something hot and you are smelling the burning of fluid.

Check it all out now and check the back of the master cylinder where it mounts to brake booster for signs there. If wet there the master cylinder has a leak in the back of it and must be replaced. If you spilled any fluid adding some it will complicate finding the real leak, T

Just did rear (drum) breaks, now it makes grinding noises

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From completelyhis on Just did rear (drum) breaks, now it makes grinding noises

2002 Toyota Echo with about 140,000 miles on it. I just did the rear breaks, which are drum. I had them turned, though it wasn't too bad. I made sure to put everything back together exactly as it was before i started. Now, when i break there is a light but steady grinding noise. not a metal on metal or squeaking noise, just grinding. I made sure to have the slack adjuster all the way in when i put everything back together, and it doesn't seem to make any noise when the wheel turns, unless the break is applied.

The break pedal feels like i need to bleed the lines, probably because when i was putting the new shoes on the plunger cylnder seal popped off, letting some of the fluid out. i made sure to put it back on good and tight, and without any gunk in it, and wiped up the fluid as best I could. probably no more than a two or three tablespoons (if that) came out.

should i be concerned? any clues?

Ian

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ian; It's usually the upper spring that goes from the primary shoe to the secondary. The 'arcing' of shoes is pretty much a thing of the past. But, if the drums are very far out of specs, it may take a little time for them to wear in as your friend suggested. But, that shouldn't make a noise. I'd take a peek at the shoes. Should be obvious..look for a shiny spot on the drum or shoes, or hub. Should be able to see what's rubbing. As far as the cylinders are concerned, any leakage is not acceptable.
Yes, I'm in Clark Co., but I don't do any advertising. I'm hesitant to 'post' any business info as I'm not here to try and 'drum' up business. I just enjoy trying to help, the best I can. If you want to send me a private mssg, I'll answer your question.

Response From completelyhis Top Rated Answer

I'll check the drum/shoes for any unevenness, to confirm or dispell my friends suggestion, and who knows, maybe i'll find something while I'm in there!

as to the wheel cylinders - are you saying that it is not normal for fluid to come out if the dust boot comes off? (sorry to be a bit dense on that issue).

Ian

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Don't be sorry, at all! No one can know everything. I sure don't. No, you shouldn't have ANY leakage at all.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Not sure if I've seen the hardware layout on an Echo, but many of the imports' springs, if put on up-side/down, will rub on the hub as it's turning. I'd recommend pulling both drums for a visual inspection. If any fluid came out of the wheel cylinders when the dust boots were removed, they should be overhauled or replaced.

Response From completelyhis

Loren,
Which spring would you be referring to? The main upper one or the smaller lower one? I am relatively certain that I put everything on the same way I took it off, but no one's perfect! Would the spring rubbing be constant, or only when the breaks are activated, because my sound is the latter. Not to further shy away from your opinion, but the sound actually is more like a non-metallic rubbing than a metal on metal.

a buddy of mine told me he thought is was because I got the drums turned, and the arc of the drum doesn't match the arc of the shoes, and I should just give it a few days, to see if they "wear in." I'm not convinced that is true, however.

Regarding the dust boot, fluid did come out when the dust boot was removed. Why does that necessitate having them overhauled or replaced? (the question is asked, of course, because I'm lazy and cheap, and don't feel much like redoing the whole process plus more!!)

Hey, I notice you're in SW Washington. I'm in Clark County - do you have a shop or anything?

Thanks,

Ian

2003 Toyota Tundra Dangerous Braking Issue

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From weisbeck20 on 2003 Toyota Tundra Dangerous Braking Issue

2003 toyota tundra 3.4L 4x4 140k miles

I'll be honest, I thought I was going to die on the way home today.

My brakes pulsate extremely hard when coming to a stop, although they do it when braking at all speeds. There is also a very distinguished *CLUNK* which is more noticeable when braking at low speeds and is in rhythm with the speed of the vehicle (about once every rotation or so). When I am traveling at low speeds (25mph) with my head out the window it sounds as if the noise is from the rear wheel of the truck, although I cant be entirely sure. Slight grinding noise also heard at those speeds when coasting or accelerating.

I have drum brakes in the rear. I jacked up the rear, removed the tire and drum housing and there are no gouges or divets in the smooth surface of the drum and the pads are evenly worn and still thick enough to be plenty effective.

This truck is my only mode of transportation and I am scared to death to drive it. I swear it felt like I wasnt going to be able to stop every time I hit a red light.

My other thought is possibly a bad wheel bearing. I am relatively mechanically inclined but I have never fooled with drum brakes before.

Ideas? Help?
Thanks in advance!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't drive it anymore! If you can't ascertain if a drum brake is even in order stop there and get help. Why do you think it's the rear at all?


Just because linings seem to have enough material left disc or drum means nothing really as you are hearing a clunk and could be tons of assorted things including a brake pad (front) that come off the backing plate but looks fine until you take it apart.


No offense but I don't think this should be driven and if a problem with drum brakes or any you really should get help from what you said,


T

Response From weisbeck20

P.S. sorry about the double post, Tom. I wasn't sure which forum was more appropriate.

Cheers

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

All is cool just dual post confuses everything.


If you think all "clunk" and problems are rear and not showing being worn or seeing anything obvious it very well could be something else that effects brakes. Bearings, backing plate, broken springs, wheel cylinder, flex hose, of a few and most rear drum brakes would also use the service brake for the parking brake and that comes in to play big time. Any frozen cable or broken part of that would alter feel and behavior of rear brakes. (Note: A few vehicles use fronts for parking brake but doubt a disc/drum truck)


I understand that a drum brake looks complicated but it's just a lot of springs but they do have to be intact and in the correct places. Hardest part can be adjusting all new work especially if parking brake parts were involved but is crude as can be when you really look at things vs some unseen magic going on that you don't.


If applicable a problem with drum brakes in certain conditions is they can't release dirt/dust or even the dust from wear over time and that can make them drag or get hot and shake but you should see one side is different than the other if heat is causing a problem OR any if one side is worn differently than the other.


Not so common is maybe whole rear end can move because of a bushing on some strut and pulling on parking brake? IDK?


I know it's your transportation but clearly this has to be fixed. As they say "going is optional" and "stopping is going to happen but not good if not where and when you wanted" type thing,


Tom

Response From weisbeck20

Not sure how to post a video to the thread from my phone, but i am able to grab the lugs at 12 and 6 oclock and move the hub up and down slightly. Dont think this should happen. Does that narrow down my options?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya - a pic is a 1,000 words but I can type if you can read. Should be what I'll call an axle rear end meaning one solid housing with a "pumkin" full of gears in the middle - the differential.


OK - Now hoist with wheel on and tightened and support the vehicle properly and safely. Start with room to pry up on tire and listen or feel/observe motion it shouldn't have. Rock whole wheel + tire top and bottom (12+6 position) and again at 9+3 by the clock if you will.


If you can't feel anything you might need a helper to do this while you look at parts that really shouldn't move by hand at all.


Don't know all layouts but should be either "leaf" spring rear end or coils (not so sure of that on this) and know that coil sprung requires struts to keep rear axle in place both front and rear motion and side to side. There are bushings all over on that type and if leaf spring set up the primary bushing is on the front mount of a leaf spring -- rear should swing but not by hand and has mounts as well holding it from left to right motion but not pushing or pulling the frame for power or braking right there.


General with leaf springs is "U" bolts holding spring to axle housing. Look that they are in place and tight and NO broken leafs in any springs.


Sorry I don't know the layout and with my luck if I guess it would be the other.


If a bearing issue you need to know exactly what type is used. Hub bearings are more for independent suspended wheels and much more likely if a "live" (my word for common axle types) is bearing is in housing of axle using a race or the axle shaft as the race. Dang - there are many ways to do the same thing. I'll look it up if I can and see what types might have been used on this and may matter what the truck's weight capacity is as to what type.


In short you need to know what can and should move if pried on and what shouldn't.


I'm here when I can be but are you apt to do this yourself if you do find something clearly wrong? Takes some tools and equipment no matter what and some is rentable for free (full deposit) at places like the large parts outlets similar to Autozone for example. You still need specific details for some things and some know how or an experienced helper all depending on what you might find.


Know where to hoist and know where to place jack stands and be on solid surface that is level! Jack that comes with the vehicle no doubt suks and remember you NEVER get under a vehicle with a jack only supporting it so you must know where to place stands elsewhere.


Need to know what you are capable of and equipment/tools available too if you do find something out of order and there is with your complaint but knowing what could be tricky - don't know yet so do what you can to find out or send it out,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time

I really don't think you should be overlooking the front so much, especially since you did work there recently. You could have a loose caliper that would be very dangerous. Brake pulsation rarely comes from drum brakes. You talk about looseness in a wheel hub but never mention which one.

Response From weisbeck20

New development. Truck rear jacked up, transmission in drive, clunking and grinding heard from rear driver tire with the wheel and drum housing off. Click heard when brakes applied. ABS light came on. Thoughts?

Response From weisbeck20

I don't plan on driving it until I fix the issue, of course. It sounds like its coming from the rear. That is why I believe it is the rear. I replaced both front all front pads and both rotors not 2 months ago.

No offense taken, I am getting help from the astute minds on this forum. If no one here offers me a logical conclusion then of course I will take the vehicle to a shop. But if I can save myself a few hundred dollars and fix the problem myself then I will certainly try.

Sat in a puddle

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From jkaid21 on Sat in a puddle

Alright so i drive a 95 Toyota 4runner. It's a V6, 4wd, Automatic. It ran fine until i stuck it, up to the floor boards, in a mud puddle. A little water came in the driver side door. It sat there for about 8 hours before i could get it out. What I've done so far is: change the oil/filter, gas, fuel filter, spark plugs, dried the air filter, drain the exhaust and replace the starter. Now what It's doing is idleing very low and shaking. when I give it some gas the shaking stops and it sounds normal up to about 2500rpms. Anymore then that and it loses power, rpms dive. I haven't drivin it since pulling it out, only been reving it up in my driveway. I think thats it, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
James

Response From georgedonovan

have you looked for a vacuum leak?

Response From jkaid21

No I haven't, I'm pretty new to this kind of stuff. How would i go about looking for a leak?

Response From georgedonovan

when you start the engine, listen for a hiss. the hiss is air getting sucked into the line or where the line should be. vacuum leaks tend ot make a car shake bad. most are the really small lines on your engine.

Response From jkaid21

Cool, ill check that out. I think I saw a map of those hoses on the inside of my hood. If I do find a leak is it just a matter of replacing the hose?

Response From georgedonovan

yes you replace the hose. If you prefer follow the diagram and spray carb cleaner on all hoses. when the idle goes up you have found the leak.

Response From jkaid21

I'll check that out in the morning and post again. Thanks for the suggestion and quick reply.

Response From nickwarner

I'd be sure to change the axle oil out and grease everything with a zerk down there. Being submerged is very bad and it would be a shame to trash your axles. Take off your distributor cap and see if there is water in there. Even condensation will cause this kind of headache. A lot of off-roaders carry a can of WD-40 with them and if they get a bit too deep they spray some inside the cap to displace the water..

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Arggh! Despite these 4X4 vehicles and other bragging about what they can do off road they really can't take it. Some effort is made for bash plates and putting a snorkel (not all 4X4s) for the vent to gear cases. CV joints, u-joints, wheel bearings rubber sealed stuff all over is not intended to be totally water tight but rather be "resistant" to exposure.

Expect brake problems as the dust rubber for pistons of calipers and wheel cylinders will suck in water as they were probably warm and the mud/water is cooler and shrinks sucking junk in.

This needs fast attention to minimize destruction. Up to floor boards is plenty but better than over door handles where vehicle would be about a total loss!

Right now, exhaust system could be full of water too. Again - get on it and get help as needed to save what you can now,

T

Response From jkaid21

Alright so I finally got a chance to try out some of the suggestions on my truck. I started it up and didn't hear a vacuum leak but I went ahead and sprayed down the lines with starting fluid anyway. There was no reving or anything so I think I'm good there. I pulled the distributor cap off next. It was dry in there but had a few grains of dirt. I cleaned that out. Trucks still doing the same thing, one guy suggested that it might be an electrical problem with the fuel injection system but I don't know where to start looking for that.


Thanks
James

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope that was a typo using starting fluid! You could have blown yourself up. If an engine didn't fire at all that can be used to spray down throttle body as a test which isn't indicated here yet. Carb cleaner and WD-40 have been mentioned. It may have one or more plugs cancelled out if running but rough.

Most wiring on engine for fuel injection should be higher up than the floor boards but all bets are off. I suggest you get some help to be able to use it if only to dry it out. Brakes may misbehave at first (linings still soaked?) and other problems may or may not come along down the road.

Have any oil holding parts checked for water having gotten inside or change all if in doubt. You are wasting valuable time,

T