Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Wheel Cylinder

Choose a Year for your Oldsmobile LSS 's Wheel Cylinder

  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Dynamic Friction
    Dynamic Friction
  • Wagner Brakes
    Wagner Brakes

Shop By Related Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Parts

Shop below for all Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder related parts for your Oldsmobile LSS


Shop for Top Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Lss Wheel Cylinders

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Centric, Dynamic Friction, Wagner Brakes, ACDelco
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Oldsmobile Lss Replacement Wheel Cylinder Parts

Dorman
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Dorman

P311-2729211    W37677  New

112341 , 134.62050 , 135.62050 , 172-1539 , 172-1558 , 18012582 , 18020210 , 18029869 , 18029943 , 18E1270 , 18E256 , 2037677 , 33936 , 34084 , 784-36050 , 84-36050 , F112341 , F129240 , W-82050 , W906575 , WC112341 , WC129240 , WC13936 , WC14084 , WC37677

Qty:
9.42
Dorman Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • ; Bore: 7/8 In.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bleeder Screw Cap Included: No
    • Bleeder Screw Included: Yes
    • Bore Size: 0.875 In.
    • Brake Component Inlet Thread Size: M10 X 1.0
    • Material: Cast Iron
    • Thread Diameter: 10
    • Thread Pitch: 1.0
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS Rear
Centric
Qty:
7.81
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • Centric Premium Wheel Cylinder
  • OE style replacement. Highest quality. Includes brass inserts and aluminum castings where applicable
  • Premium Wheel Cylinder-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attribute ID (Type): California Proposition 65
    • Bore Diameter: 22.23
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders; Brake Hoses; Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS Rear
Centric
Qty:
11.70
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Reservoirs and caps included. Pressure tested for worry free performance. Wide application coverage
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attribute ID (Type): California Proposition 65
    • Bore Diameter: 22.23
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile LSS Rear
Dynamic Friction
Qty:
9.65
Dynamic Friction Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • DFC Wheel Cylinder
  • DFC Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Dynamic Friction
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile LSS Rear
Wagner Brakes
1997 Oldsmobile LSS Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Wagner Brakes

P311-21C1B2F    WC129240  New

#N/A , 134-62050 , 134.62050 , 135.62050 , 18020210 , 18029436 , 18029869 , 18029943 , 18E256 , 19175799 , 19213350 , 33936 , 37677 , EW155044 , W-82050 , W37677 , WC-37677 , WC13936

Qty:
9.19
Wagner Brakes Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Bore 7/8in
  • Wagner WC129240 Brake Wheel Cylinder Assembly
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Bolted
    • Bleeder Screw Cap Included: No
    • Bleeder Screw Included: Yes
    • Bore Diameter: 0.875
    • Brake Line Inlet Thread Diameter: 10.0
    • Casting Material: Cast Iron
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
  • Wagner® Brake hydraulics deliver improved OE-design products to the aftermarket giving you the capability to repair and improve a brake system with the finest products possible. Coverage for foreign, domestic, passenger car, light trucks, SUVs and vans.
Brand: Wagner Brakes
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile LSS Rear
ACDelco
1998 Oldsmobile LSS Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder ACDelco

P311-074FBEF    W0133-1639247  New

Qty:
143.22
ACDelco Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • Rear
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder ACDelco

P311-074FBEF    W0133-1639247  New

Qty:
143.22
ACDelco Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Gold (Professional) DuraStop
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder ACDelco

P311-074FBEF    W0133-1639247  New

Qty:
143.22
ACDelco Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Gold (Professional) DuraStop
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

rear wheel cylinder size on a 97 dodge caravan

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From craven morehead on rear wheel cylinder size on a 97 dodge caravan

i have a 97 dodge grand caravan with a bad wheel cylinder. the parts store says that there are two different sizes,3/4 and 13/16 bore. how do i know which one i need?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Measure the bore of the old wheel cylinder.

brake cylinder blown out

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From adam12408 on brake cylinder blown out

I have a 97 geo prism and the rear driver's side wheel cylinder has blown out, the rubber cap on the back side came off. we got a new wheel cylinder and put it and bled the brakes. All was well, and the pedal got tighter after we bled them, but once we turned the car on, the pedal went to the floor again, and the back piston thing inside the wheel cylinder had come too far out, causing the rubber ring around it to block it's path back into the wheel cylinder and brake fluid to squirt out. This is the third time we have tried this and it's just not working. do you know what the issue might possibly be? Also, i made sure that there is definately enough brake fluid in the resevoir.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Did you have the drum on when you pressed on the brake pedal when it went to the floor?

2004 dodge neon - rear brake

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From jamiestevens on 2004 dodge neon - rear brake

I have a 2004 dodge neon and I was wondering what would cause a rear brake wheel cylinder to keep bursting. I have replaced shoes parking brake part and wheel cylinders on both sides and the left side cylinder keep bursting

Response From Hammer Time

Check to see if you may have the adjuster on the wrong side of the car causing it to loosen the shoes instead of tighten them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Reasons:
* Way out of adjustment?
* Wrong parts, improper installation
* Re-using the cylinder after it blew a piston out - no, new again.
If any chance you bled brakes with drum off it would fail,


T

1996 Grand Am GT Rear Brakes Grabby?!

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From slow_sprinter on 1996 Grand Am GT Rear Brakes Grabby?!

1996 Grand AM GT
Over on miles
Not sure if brakes are still factory.
Pulled off rear drums for inspection. Found No leaking wheel cylinders.

Did a quick google search and found some people reporting the same type of problems. Saw everything from replace the controller, to replace with only GM brakes shoes. Grabs really bad when car is first going in the morning, then the problem goes away a little. When braking at speed after car is warmed up it does seem to pull rear of car down a bit more. Like the brake bias is messed up.

Where do I start? How do I check?

Thanks for any help!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You pulled the drums off - what did the shoes look like and the dust situation in there? Is is nice even wear? Does parking brake operate properly and do both shoes return properly back to top anchor pin?

Clean them with "BrakeKleen" but don't get that on rubber parts. Inspect by pushing that both ends of wheel cylinders are free to move - one piston can freeze and they can fail without leaking.

New return springs wouldn't hurt and are cheap enough.

Some - even OE shoes will drag a bit when first used after it's been wet or the times when windows would fog too. That usually quite with the first brake action.

There is a "proportioning" system for all cars but it's rarely the problem in my own experience,

T

Response From slow_sprinter

Ok, revisited the brakes and it appears that on the driver's side (where a majority of the noise is coming from) the front shoe is a little bit more worn than the rear shoe. Pushing on the shoes, it looked as if the front shoe piston was moving very freely at all in the wheel cylinder. Hence the thinner more worn condition of the shoe? Or do front shoes tend to wear faster than rears? I think the cylinder is the culprit here, but I was wanting to double check with you guys (Tom) one more time! thanks!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

With unequal wear there's something to find. If not the parking brake hanging up or a weak return spring that kinda leaves the wheel cylinder highly suspect.

The front piston of the wheel cyl is doing about all the work for stopping when going forward and vs versa. Note the front shoe should be less friction material as the two together are really jamming up at the top anchor pin so back shoe take the brunt of the work - going forward!

Drum brakes are not equal with braking force going in reverse.

You should be able to just remove the return springs and push on the wheel cylinder and watch it slide backwards and forwards with relative ease. DON'T PUSH IT RIGHT OUT OF IT BORE THOUGH!

It's still a guess but I think you need new wheel cylinders. They aren't huge buck but I think this car uses a clip thing to hold them in that can be a pill to get out and then there's always some risk with the brake line not cooperating but otherwise pretty straight forward if you DIY,

T

BRAKE PROBLEMS..PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From wrenchgirl on BRAKE PROBLEMS..PLEASE HELP!!!

I HAVE A 1989 CHEVY S-10 BLAZER 4.3L APPROXIMATELY 180,000. I HAVE A BRAKE LIGHT ON THE DASH. I REPLACED A BRAKE LINE GOING FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER TO THE REAR BAKE HOSE. I HAVE TRIED TO BLEED THEM BUT CAN'T GET ANYTHING TO WORK. THE FRONT BLEEDS FINE BUT NOTHING OUT OF EITHER REARS. I HAVE TRIED EVERY IDEA EVERYONE HAVE SUGGESTED AND NOTHING IS WORKING. I WAS WONDERING IF IT WAS THE PROPORTIONING VALVE UNDER THE HOOD OR THE ONE ON THE REAR AXLE? I AM OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS THAT CAN BE OFFERED. ALSO THE PEDAL GOES ALMOST ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR BEFORE IT STOPS. I HAVE ALSO REPLACED A MASTER CYLINDER,PASS SIDE REAR WHEEL CYLINDER, REAR BRAKES,BRAKE LINE FROM WHEEL CYLINDER TO REAR PROPORTIONING VALVE. PLEASE HELP I AM TRYING TO GET IT FIXED BEFORE WINTER.

Response From Hammer Time

Is this truck equipped with rear wheel ABS?

Response From wrenchgirl

no abs at all.

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure that is actually true. the old Blazers didn't really have any marking to indicate there was. The only indication was a flat, verticle module next to the master cylinder. If it has the ABS, then you could have a dump valve pocketing air, otherwise you would be looking at a bad master, proportioning valve or bad rear brake flex hose. I would try capping the line at the master and see if you can get a good pedal.

Response From wrenchgirl

What exactly do you mean by capping the line at the master cylinder? How do you do that?

Response From Hammer Time

Capping it off means removing the line from the master cylinder a making something to seal off the hole and see if you can bleed the master alone enough to get a good pedal. That will tell you the master is good and the problem is further down the line.

You might want top try bleeding with a pressure bleeder also.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guess I'm whacked today but to add to Hammer's list of great suggestions:



A hand held vacuum pump on an open bleeder (use clear line so you know fluid is coming) can work with some feisty but good systems. Don't allow fluid into the pump is the reason for clear line (fish tank stuff etc) will do and it may snap to.

Master cylinders if older don't like pedal to floor sometimes and fail traveling further than they have with crust tearing it's rubber seals inside it even when and if it wasn't a problem to begin with,

T

Response From wrenchgirl

Well it does have a new master and I have been noticing that when you take off the cap there is suction but i have been seeing that there is a leak at the line before the rubber line where I replaced the line to. that is what so confusing because apparently there is fluid to that point, but when cracking the lines off the proportioning valve off the master cylinder for the rears there was no fluid coming out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Well - you have to replace that section of line that leaks to the splitter that's on the rear differential. Did you "bench" bleed this master cylinder till no more bubbles showed up?

Was it a new or rebuilt? Have to tried to plug it off to get a firm pedal to rule out defective or air locked up master cyl?

Could be wrong on this but usually the front-most port on master is for the rear brakes. You said one rear wheel cyl is new and I'd make sure bleeders work - take them out till air can blow thru them if needed. The new one should have a new bleeder.

This will come to pass. I do suggest you replace wheel cylinders in pairs also,

T

Response From wrenchgirl Top Rated Answer

We did bench bleed it and there were no more bubbles and it was a new master no rebuilt. Both bleeders were working on the wheel cylinders but no fluid coming out of either one of them. I havent tried any of this yet gotta wait. thanks for the help

Response From Tom Greenleaf


So far from what I under stand with this problem is there's no fluid pressure at all to rear brakes. You could put the adaptor back on and re-bleed just the rear of master and see if it flows at all now. It might have an issue/fault or be defective even new. In a career I've only seen two defective new ones but it can happen or it's got a huge air pocket as you said you can't get fluid to the proportioning valve even AND had that leak which could have sucked air back in and make it difficult. If you can - get a solid plug proper item to plug the rear system off and you should have a normal feeling brake pedal. If not there's air in master to be re-bled or it's defective is best I can guess.

There's nothing more frustrating than a defective new part and if you returned it get a different brand as the times that happened to me it was a flaw with the whole batch. Unfortunately it puts the burden on you to determine that a part is bad and that's why you are here of course to figure out what's wrong as this should not be this difficult. A pressure bleeder would force fluid thru unless there was a blockage. You could even crack line right at master and see fluid come out. If you let off of the brake pedal if doing this that way with a helper it will suck air back in until all is re-tightened, then pump up and do again and again till air is out. You would need to start all over if master lost fluid and so on.

Are you up on brake bleeding?

(pic shows common bench bleeding. Some can still be done on vehicle but best if done first)

T

Response From wrenchgirl

ok do u mean a flat black box next ot the master cylinder if so then it has rear wheel abs.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, here's what it looks like



Response From wrenchgirl

Also the other thing is I am kind of confused on is we cant get any fluid out of the what I call the proportioning valve under the hood. But apparently I am getting fluid somehow back to there because I am leaving puddles right where the line meets the rubber line by the rear axle. This is confusing because people tell me that I should try to bleed it more and that still did not work could not get any fluid to the rear wheels. When you push on the pedal it just about goes all the way to the floor. So what steps would you suggest that I take to get fluid back to both rear tires so I do not have to worry about getting into an accident???? Please help I am stuck.

Response From Sidom

One basic trick you can use is just start at the Master, find the rear brk line, have some one pump the pedal & crack the line slightly. If fluid comes out, move down the line to the next fitting & crack that one after pumping the pedal. Keep going until you find an area where you don't get fluid when you crack the line....... That's going to be your problem area...........