Select Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Wheel Cylinder

Choose a Year for your vehicle's Wheel Cylinder

  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1969
  • 1968
  • 1967
  • 1966
  • 1965
  • 1964
  • 1963
  • 1962
  • 1961
  • 1960
  • 1959
  • 1958
  • 1957
  • 1956
  • 1955
  • 1954
  • 1953
  • 1952
  • 1951
  • 1950
  • 1949
  • 1948
  • 1947
  • 1946
  • 1945
  • 1944
  • 1943
  • 1942
  • 1941
  • 1940
  • 1939
  • 1938
  • 1937
  • 1936
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • AISIN
    AISIN
  • AMO
    AMO
  • AP
    AP
  • Adler
    Adler
  • Advics
    Advics
  • Auto 7
    Auto 7
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Dansk
    Dansk
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • FTE
    FTE
  • Febi
    Febi
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • IMC
    IMC
  • Metelli
    Metelli
  • Motorcraft
    Motorcraft
  • Nabtesco
    Nabtesco
  • PBR
    PBR
  • Seiken
    Seiken
  • TRW
    TRW
  • Tokico
    Tokico
  • URO Parts
    URO Parts
  • Wagner Brakes
    Wagner Brakes

Best Selling Genuine Replacement Wheel Cylinders

  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Replacement Wheel Cylinder Parts
  • We stock Discount Wheel Cylinder OEM Parts
Beck Arnley
2005 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Right 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-4CEDE15    072-9560  New

Qty:
$14.11
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear Right
Beck Arnley
2005 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Left 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-4A46C96    072-9561  New

Qty:
$14.11
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear Left
PBR
1984 Mazda GLC Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-54E53C7    W0133-1630667  New

Qty:
$17.25
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Mazda GLC
PBR
1983 Ford E-150 Econoline Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-030C065    W0133-1801152  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Ford E-150 Econoline
PBR
1982 Ford F-250 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-030C065    W0133-1801152  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Regular Duty Brakes (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Ford F-250
PBR
1983 Ford F-250 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-030C065    W0133-1801152  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Regular Duty Brakes (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Ford F-250
PBR
1980 Ford Bronco Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-48D6C47    W0133-1801133  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford Bronco
PBR
1983 Ford F-250 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-48D6C47    W0133-1801133  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Regular Duty Brakes (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Ford F-250
PBR
1982 Ford F-250 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-48D6C47    W0133-1801133  New

Qty:
$22.77
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • W/ Regular Duty Brakes (15/16th" Cylinder)
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Ford F-250
PBR
1997 Ford Ranger Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-018E66D    W0133-1705621  New

Qty:
$18.22
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 10" Rear Drums (13/16" Cylinder)
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Ford Ranger
PBR
1990 Mazda B2600 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-42E5F0F    W0133-1627720  New

Qty:
$20.23
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda B2600
PBR
2000 Mazda MPV Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-29B6BC5    W0133-1761613  New

Qty:
$16.75
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
PBR
1989 Dodge Raider Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • 10 x 1.97" Brakes
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Dodge Raider
PBR
1987 Dodge Ram 50 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • 4WD - 10 x 1.97" Brakes
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Dodge Ram 50
PBR
1987 Mitsubishi Montero Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Production: 06/1987-
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Mitsubishi Montero
PBR
1989 Mitsubishi Montero Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Mitsubishi Montero
PBR
1991 Mitsubishi Montero Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Production: -09/1991
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Mitsubishi Montero
PBR
1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Production: 05/1989-
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mitsubishi Mighty Max
PBR
1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • Production: 05/1986-, 4WD
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Mitsubishi Mighty Max
PBR
1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder PBR

P311-56347F9    W0133-1676858  New

Qty:
$38.66
PBR Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • 4WD
  • Rear - Left
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Mitsubishi Mighty Max

Latest Wheel Cylinder Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

rear wheel cylinder size on a 97 dodge caravan

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From craven morehead on rear wheel cylinder size on a 97 dodge caravan

i have a 97 dodge grand caravan with a bad wheel cylinder. the parts store says that there are two different sizes,3/4 and 13/16 bore. how do i know which one i need?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Measure the bore of the old wheel cylinder.

2004 dodge neon - rear brake

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From jamiestevens on 2004 dodge neon - rear brake

I have a 2004 dodge neon and I was wondering what would cause a rear brake wheel cylinder to keep bursting. I have replaced shoes parking brake part and wheel cylinders on both sides and the left side cylinder keep bursting

Response From Hammer Time

Check to see if you may have the adjuster on the wrong side of the car causing it to loosen the shoes instead of tighten them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Reasons:
* Way out of adjustment?
* Wrong parts, improper installation
* Re-using the cylinder after it blew a piston out - no, new again.
If any chance you bled brakes with drum off it would fail,


T

brake cylinder blown out

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From adam12408 on brake cylinder blown out

I have a 97 geo prism and the rear driver's side wheel cylinder has blown out, the rubber cap on the back side came off. we got a new wheel cylinder and put it and bled the brakes. All was well, and the pedal got tighter after we bled them, but once we turned the car on, the pedal went to the floor again, and the back piston thing inside the wheel cylinder had come too far out, causing the rubber ring around it to block it's path back into the wheel cylinder and brake fluid to squirt out. This is the third time we have tried this and it's just not working. do you know what the issue might possibly be? Also, i made sure that there is definately enough brake fluid in the resevoir.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Did you have the drum on when you pressed on the brake pedal when it went to the floor?

Brake problem.

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Carl Alcon on Brake problem.

1968 Chevy El Camino
327 CID
100000 plus on chassis
Replaced master cylinder, brake booster, all four wheel cylinders, and brake distribution block. Pedal still fades.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

When you say "fades" do you mean brake pedal slowly travels even all the way to the floor or change in power assist feel?


Pretty basic brakes on this vintage.
Why did you replace what you called a "distribution box?" That should be a multifunction proportioning valve specific to the vehicle but wouldn't cause fade unless it leaked.
The new item mentioned do NOT mean they are good. At a glance suggests bad master cylinder if it loses pedal to floor.
Erratic power assist is a vacuum issue w vacuum stored in booster and locked in booster indefinitely even with engine off should be holding vacuum inside and proven by at least one power assisted brake pedal push with engine off for a while. Faults include bad booster, check valve right where hose goes into it and the grommet.


Just FYI on the proportioning valve: It's job is to direct pressure/braking force for the vehicle it was installed on or meant for. Trucks are generally intended to apply more force earlier to rear brakes and you have a mix of truck and car style. At the vintage many auto makers would or wouldn't offer OE power assist at all or option of front disc brakes for certain powertrain options.
I'm never going to find what would be OE for the chassis on this what was originally offered. Doesn't all matter as brakes fading if sitting still isn't correct but could be confused with changing vacuum assist.


You would know that by shutting engine off, apply brakes till all vacuum is used up and brake pedal feels harder. Then hold brake and start engine you should feel pedal drop some with now vacuum assisting when it wasn't before. If not or erratic with stable engine speed there's probably a vacuum source and sealing problem with anything about it - engine itself on thru all items including the booster,


T

Response From Carl Alcon

It's not slowly, it's pretty much to the floor right away. It's almost like I'm not getting any break assist. The reason I replaced the distribution block was because after I replaced the master cylinder/booster, I pressure tested the system and wasn't getting anything out of the port that feeds the rear. It is not a proportioning valve. The OPGI part number is CH26980 if you want to see what it is. The intake manifold is pulling vacuum. This is the second master cylinder/booster that I have replaced. Unless I got 2 in a row that were bad.


C

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? OK, whatever distribution box replaced is fine. It has a proportioning valve then also that slides inside to direct fluid pressure AND if off center meant to lock off leaking or unequal pressures plus on a 1968 get a red brake warning light. When those are far enough off center they won't bleed out fluid unless centered again by releasing pressure from the one end that works the shaft inside moves to allow flow to both front and rear in this case. A good one self centers by leaving it alone so you don't hear much about them.


Now you say you feel like you have no power assist possibly due to lack of vacuum or ability to hold it. Vacuum source is intake manifold actual vacuum on this via a usually a rubber hose that will not collapse and stay on ports snugly from below carb itself on to a plastic check valve at the booster. It can fail anywhere it leaks or if not locked in check meaning vacuum only travels one way thru a check valve. One would think booster would come with a new grommet but might not be correct? It just that silly rubber thing leaked your brakes would lose power assist - that simple.


Some guess work: I would bet master cylinder has an adjustable rod to booster. If wrong that would leak out vacuum without touching anything as if you were pushing the brake pedal just a bit. Specs for that or jus know that by feel of parts.
Multiple bad parts. IDK - by the second bad part you have to seriously question if you wrecked it or some other reason is wrong. No question bad parts exist new or plain wrong parts.
This is 99% a Chevelle as HT said NOT based on a truck chassis. Changes known OE of a chassis include which engine, body style as to whether it gets disc front brakes (not sure for 1968 on this) or drums on front, proportioning valve, size of brakes. If those matched and were all wrong you would still have brakes just not what it was designed for.


Side note if you find this the or part of the problem. Shaft adjustment to the master cylinder from the brake pedal I think is under the dash above brake pedal. A thing you never needed to touch unless altered or damaged.


Also: If this isn't bench bled properly you can end up with air you'll never get out without starting over or pressure bleed system.
Air in system make a variety of odd behavior also even small amounts very temperature sensitive as the air will expand with a running engine and can lose all brake feel that might come back some when cold,


T

Response From Carl Alcon

Thanks for your response. I went and bought a hand pump and bled it out again. When I was trying to figure this out, I blew out the lines. The hand pump worked.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Whatever tool you bought to bleed out brakes if it worked and all is well now can't argue with that. Open for now but thread should probably get locked up for archives soon as a solved issue,


T

Response From fredm Top Rated Answer

You said that you replaced "all 4 wheel cylinders", so I am assuming that you have drum brakes on all 4 wheels. But if you have discs on the front and you actually replaced the front calipers instead of cylinders, then make sure that you didn't reverse the calipers left to right. Either caliper will fit on either wheel, but if you get them on the wrong side then the bleed valve is positioned on the bottom of the caliper instead of the top - in that case you'll never get the air properly bled out.

Response From Hammer Time

Disc brakes were not standard until 1971 This is a '68.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm going with drum brakes around till stated otherwise. OP - Master cylinder would be different if for a disc brake vehicle. Larger reservoir towards booster the clue, if same size it's correct.


Where parts new or rebuilt - master cyl + or wheel cylinders? Matters. Rebuilt had/has high failure rate. Wheel cyl (rare for this) could draw air back and not leak with pressure.


Notes for drum brake musts: Shoes correct and star adjusted at bottom to slightest drag or drag then back off to none. Do not adjust parking brake (rear only) until shoes and all parts are exactly correct and adjusted. If wrong service brake will never work right either spongy or burn up by themselves. Some could blow a piston out of wheel cylinder - most can't but never feel right.


Adjustment in order of events must be first before bleeding.


Note: Drum brakes look intimidating with springs and things + double as parking brake well if right. If confused Google out pics as they are still made now for other use (trailers etc.) No fundamental changes in principle operation for ~60 years!


Any hydraulic items using rubber if dry will tear up rubber and fail almost right away might be part of repeat problems?


Know parts (most) at wheels are for "towards front or rear" or for "left side right side" can be installed opposite and fail but not total loss of pressure feel sitting still,
T

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds to me like you just don't know how to bleed it properly. You probably need to have it pressure bled.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ditto HT - Twas long ago but I recall that many GMs the master cylinder was at almost a 45 degree angle as bolted to booster was a b*tch sometimes.


Tricks of the time: Floor jack hoist driver's side of car much higher than passenger's first. Vacuum pull out some fluid out of bleeders then thru a clear line so you could see it then proceed.
I'm almost certain NOT for GM anything but Fords you had to push a red rubber button on proportioning valve or it was stuck on either front or rear only! That centered it if spring inside (they all were fine then) could move. If rusted from old fluid maybe fuss with it or find another - very difficult to get right proportion of pressure delivered.


Other: I don't think GM put disc brakes on anything but Corvettes in 1968 except for experimental by special order on some Oldsmobiles - owned one - 4 piston Vetter brakes really nothing special. Cadillac didn't offer disc brakes in 1968 TMK on anything!


T

Response From Hammer Time

This vehicle isn't a truck. It is a Chevelle chassis with the back cut off.

If you have 4 wheel drum brakes and the pedal drops after initially having a good pedal and it has no external leaks, the problem can only be the master cylinder.
Just make sure you are confusing the symptom with just a spongy pedal due to air in the system.

1999zx2 pass. rear brake drags

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From jim e on 1999zx2 pass. rear brake drags

auto adjuster prob? taken drum off 2 times, then it tightens up again. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

Is it only happening on one side?
Could you have swapped sides with the adjusters?

Response From jim e

no, I havent done anything but slip the adjuster to loosen it,put wheel back on, and in a few days its tightened up again.

thanks for ur reply

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Wheel cylinder hanging?

Response From jim e

only 70,000 miles, but thats an idea. Thanks alot. I'll check that next.