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Best Selling Genuine Honda Wheel Cylinders

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Beck Arnley
2006 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Left 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-4A46C96    072-9561  New

Qty:
$15.20
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • WHEEL CYLINDER
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Honda Accord Rear Left L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Beck Arnley
2004 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder - Rear Right 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-4CEDE15    072-9560  New

Qty:
$15.20
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • WHEEL CYLINDER
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Honda Accord DX Rear Right L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Centric
Qty:
$10.90
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Honda Civic Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$10.90
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Rear Brake Position
1993 - Honda Accord Coupe Drum Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$14.01
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2004 - Honda Civic HX Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$11.55
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Rear Brake Position
1996 - Honda Accord Wagon Drum Rear Left
Centric
Qty:
$11.55
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Rear Brake Position
1995 - Honda Accord Coupe Drum Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$11.55
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Rear Brake Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Honda Accord Drum Rear Right L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2254
Centric
Qty:
$11.55
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Rear Brake Position Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Honda Accord Drum Rear Left L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2254
Centric
Qty:
$10.90
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; "DX"
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Rear Brake Position
1991 - Honda CRX Base Drum Rear Right
Centric
Qty:
$10.90
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • ; "DX"
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Rear Brake Position
1991 - Honda CRX Base Drum Rear Left
Adler
2013 Honda Fit Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-2ACA445    W0133-1781352  New

Qty:
$42.25
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Honda Fit Base
Adler
1990 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-53D29D4    W0133-1629908  New

Qty:
$31.63
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear - Right
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Honda Accord
Adler
1995 Honda Civic del Sol Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-53D29D4    W0133-1629908  New

Qty:
$31.63
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1995 - Honda Civic del Sol S
Adler
2004 Honda Civic Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-20497F6    W0133-1617698  New

Qty:
$38.73
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear - Right
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Honda Civic LX
Adler
2004 Honda Civic Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-20497F6    W0133-1617698  New

Qty:
$38.73
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body
2004 - Honda Civic Si Coupe
Adler
1990 Honda Accord Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-1E1344B    W0133-1630040  New

Qty:
$32.98
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear - Left
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Honda Accord
Adler
1990 Honda Civic Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-1E1344B    W0133-1630040  New

Qty:
$32.98
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1990 - Honda Civic EX
Adler
2004 Honda Civic Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-01B125C    W0133-1713270  New

Qty:
$39.02
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear - Left
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Honda Civic LX
Adler
2005 Honda Civic Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Adler

P311-01B125C    W0133-1713270  New

Qty:
$39.02
Adler Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Adler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Honda Civic Value Package

Latest Honda Repair and Wheel Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Requesting 2000 Civic VP repair advice

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Guest on Requesting 2000 Civic VP repair advice

Hello All, I am new here..am computer professional, but dont know much about autos. so i humbly request your advice on my 2000 honda civic VP ( 112k mileage)

During my oil change yesterday, my honda dealer found the found the following issues :

1) brakes front 4mm rotor 19, 8mm /rear .5mm (shoes)
2) R/R wheel cylinder leaking, tires seeping
3) exhaust leaks ( it passed smog test 1 month back though )
4) oil pan gasket leaks


Then they quoted me following rates to replace:
1) Replace rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes - 565.00
2) rear trailing arm bushing 560 + alignment 151.88
3) Exhaust leak diagn 150
4) Left rear strut 313
5) oil pan gasket 320

Now, I would like to know which one of them is absolute must to drive the safely in a order of priority. My wife is using this car mostly, and I dont want to have any safety related issue of the car. Also, the I dont want to spend $2500 on this old car too.

I would request your kind advice on what to do .
please help

Response From Double J

Absolutely a must...BRAKES......Leaking Wheel cylinders (leaks brake fluid).Vehicle is unsafe to drive in this condition.
Anything recommended for Brakes MUST be done.

Rear Trailing Arm bushing ..Depending on what the problem is,this could be a safety issue as well.
Verify what exactly is wrong with the bushing.

Strut....what is said to be faulty with this?

Tires seeping?Slow leaks?could lead to a safety /control issue with the vehicle .

Exhaust leak,Depends on what is leaking..Is the exhaust in poor condition where it could fall off and/or drop down and drag the ground.
Again,depends on what is exactly wrong with it.

Oil Leak from pan gasket.I would think this is some seepage.May be something that can be tolerated for awhile.Keep a constant check on the oil level.Have them verify if this is seepage or is it something that is leaking fast.If so,putting it off could lead to Major engine damage/failure.

Response From usedcarnewbie Top Rated Answer

First of all thanks Jim.

As per the written report given by dealer says, both rear arm bushing are cracked.

Left Rear Strut is leaking...

Oil pan gasket is wet...i dont think its very big leak..anyway, i need to check with them again..

they didnt clearly mentioned whats exhaust leak..one thing i noticed while doing smog testing a month ago, the NO level was high but below maximum acceptable level. dealer mentioned diagnosing the exhaust leak itself will cost me $150.

So i think this would be list in the order of priority:

1 . wheel cylinder and brake shoes
2. both rear arm bushings
3. left rear struts
4. oil pan gasket
5. exhaust



Absolutely a must...BRAKES......Leaking Wheel cylinders (leaks brake fluid).Vehicle is unsafe to drive in this condition.
Anything recommended for Brakes MUST be done.

Rear Trailing Arm bushing ..Depending on what the problem is,this could be a safety issue as well.
Verify what exactly is wrong with the bushing.

Strut....what is said to be faulty with this?

Tires seeping?Slow leaks?could lead to a safety /control issue with the vehicle .

Exhaust leak,Depends on what is leaking..Is the exhaust in poor condition where it could fall off and/or drop down and drag the ground.
Again,depends on what is exactly wrong with it.

Oil Leak from pan gasket.I would think this is some seepage.May be something that can be tolerated for awhile.Keep a constant check on the oil level.Have them verify if this is seepage or is it something that is leaking fast.If so,putting it off could lead to Major engine damage/failure.

Response From usedcarnewbie

Thank you . So I'll check with some independent repair shop tomorrow. So I have to replace wheel cylinder and break shoes first...

Response From autojoe

i would say the leaking wheel cylinders and brakes are most important.That sounds like a lot of money for these jobs.Maybe get an estimate from a independant shop.

85 Honda Accord, disappearing brake fluid

Showing 2 out of 25 Posts | Show 23 Hidden Posts
Question From soulshattered on 85 Honda Accord, disappearing brake fluid

I have a 1985 Honda Accord, it has been wonders for me. Only paid 650$ for it, only had to get 4 new tires for it. Had it for two years. One day the brakes failed completely. I had to E-brake it home. I replaced fluid, no problem. Few months later, same thing happened again. Realized there is a significant problem, take off front wheels. Caliper seal busted on passenger side. Replaced both calipers, both brake pads. Drums on the back were in OK condition (expensive special order part on these drums). I filled brake fluid reservoir, bled the brakes with some assistance from family. The brakes had build up some pressure, there were no bubbles coming out of the bleeder valves on the brake lines. We turned the car on, the brake reservoir drops to nothing, we lose ALL brake pressure, and there is a huge cloud of smoke around the car. I am no "genius", but I am assuming this is the brake fluid burning off in some way. I am not a complete genius with cars, but does the brake system link up with the exhaust at some point? Im thinking brake booster, or master cylinder.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to replace the master cylinder and the brake booster. The master is leaking into the brake booster. The engine is burning the brake fluid and getting it through the brake booster vacuum hose.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That has to be it. Check everywhere fluid goes on some schedule. Flex hoses, wheel cylinders etc.
What happens with master cylinders especially when older like this is when it travels down more than it might have in ages there is crust inside and the seals tear right up. It's actually good than it did that all at once and not in a panic stop on you,

T

Response From soulshattered

Ok thanks a bunch, I know exactly where the master cylinder is, the brake booster, however might take a little bit of digging to locate. I will probably be picking up the parts soon.

Once again, thanks a lot!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just looked -----

Booster: Available but special order.......
/
Master cylinder: Available and special order too. Get the complete one with reservoir and cap. Neither were very pricey for this!
/

Good luck with it,

T

Response From soulshattered

So ive got the master cylinder coming later, as well as the brake booster. Going under the hood I see bolts connecting the brake lines, I see the hose that runs from the engine. Is there any really elaborate steps to remove these two parts or is it simply bolts and the vacuum hose?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Should be mostly nuts and bolts. Rusted anything could be a pest. Flare nut wrenches for lines. Hope info comes with parts but pay attention to vacuum booster if adjustable there doesn't need to be some freeplay before it pushes on master cylinder. If not brakes would not return fluid well or at all after applying brakes. Not sure if adjustable or the spec. Check at brake pedal now with a finger how much is almost nothing before resistance as a clue.

Bench bleed master cylinder first off of car. Instructions and probably a kit to help should come with new one. If not say so but basically you put lines in outlets while body of master is held in place like a vise and push on end that goes to booster returning fluid to reservoir watching for it to be free of bubbles.

If no kit in the box you could/should just get some short pre-made lines that fit and make your own.

Think about the check valve at the booster to toss that too along with the vacuum hose, clamps if needed.

Bleeders at all wheels need to work when all installed and finish with bleeding whole system. If you run into any problems just ask and someone here can dig out some details. It's possible to have something hard to get at for fasteners but I don't know of any special tools just for this job.

Take your time and find out what or why if it isn't going well. This shouldn't be that tricky as things go, just age on things,

T

Response From soulshattered

the master cylinder is removed. I am not working on the brake booster. I have to disconnect the brake pedal from the booster. I have easy access to two screws, difficult to one screw, and one i cant even see.. Just trying to figure out how to disconnect brake pedal

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Here's some procedures that I found out there. AYOR for accuracy. Getting to fasteners you can't even see is a pest. There will be a way to get at it.

___________________________________________
**************************************
Print
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


  1. If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Chassis Electrical .
  2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the booster.
  3. Remove the master cylinder. Plug the brake lines immediately. Place the master cylinder in a clean, protected location out of the work area.
  4. Remove the brake pedal-to-booster link pin and the 4 nuts retaining the booster. The pushrod and nuts are located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel.
  5. Remove the booster assembly from the vehicle.
  6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  7. Bleed the brake system.
  8. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

**************************** Just what I found out there, T

Response From soulshattered

4. Remove the brake pedal-to-booster link pin and the 4 nuts retaining the booster. The pushrod and nuts are located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel.

stuck here cant find pedal to booster link pin



Here is a possibly really stupid question, should the brake booster have brake fluid in it?

Response From chickenhouse

No, the booster holds vacuum to assist the braking action. The brake fluid that's in the booster now is what your engine was burning. That's why you are replacing it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Re: Link pin: Couldn't find anything exact for a pic of what and how. Something holds the pushrod to booster from pedal from just flying around. Hitch pin, something acting as a cotter pin. Whatever way would be made to not just rattle loose.

Just an assortment of things may not be anything like any but the idea...........


Gotta find it and it must be in good shape for re-use.............MANDATORY!

T

Response From soulshattered

I have it all disconnected.....now i cant seem to get it out. My engine bay is rather small, I cant even get the tip of the brake booster out. there is a tip that sticks out that I cant clear outtof the brake pedal area, does it detach? (the part that attaches to the brake pedal)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

/
That pic again. Is it the item to the right that has no clearance? Does the replacement have it in place same as old one? Smile but you are there and I'm guessing at what is in the way to jockey this thing out. What is in the way of pulling it straight forward then some angles now?

Where is the most problem, inside the car or outside under the hood. If engine itself is the stopper be sure if that's a last resort to tilt it or remove what is in the way. I'm at a loss without looking right at it as it is now. I'm not ready to say detach anthing that is on the replacement booster.

Note: I'm here a lot checking in but can't be watching all the time for question if you are waiting. Do think thru anything you may need to move out of the way such that you can put it all back properly. If brake lines are a problem from master those should have enough to flex out of the way but be sure when you hook those up they are not cross threaded into master before you tighten those up.

Keep looking at what and where the hold up is,

T

Response From soulshattered

So everything is good, brakes are all done. Bled everything good brake pressure no loss of fluid. Now I am having problems with an unusually high idle, we had to move a bracket behind the carb to wiggle in and out the brake boosters. I am looking for the idle adjustment, I believe we may have tripped it in our work. I cant seem to find a diagram or a picture detailing what this looks like

Response From chickenhouse

Is the vacuum hose going to the booster securly plugged in at both ends? Do you hear any hissing noises?

Response From soulshattered

Yes, its good. I am being led to think I need to adjust the idle.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

See if pic shows direct......


So far that showed for me? Your choke is about where it would be about 10 seconds after you start it up cold as in on fast idle. The rod that goes to the choke thermostat you should be able to open choke fully to test for that binding. You would then need to hold throttle up some (all this engine off) and that choke plate should be free to move.

This is a mind game now - what temp was the engine at when you took that picture #2 on you list of them back a couple posts? If that choke in the black housing top left in that pic can't shut the choke off via electric heater probably or possible exhaust heat (doubt that for 1985) it's going to race like it's cold. In that the problem just started with this job my bet is it is electrically heated to shut it off and the choke plate would stand up wide open and all would be just ducky.

Many that are electric heated if you just put key to run without starting engine would heat that up to the touch from cold and shut or at least feel that housing warm to hot to the touch.

Check wire and that housing metal bracket is in fact ground -- that hoop that holds it in place.

If all confused and I can do that well go ahead and start it with as much connected as possible and push the rod to open choke, flick throttle and it should be on the old warm idle. If that works but won't do that automatically that choke got messed up. Best guess for now. If not that hit back and let's see what else it could be? It has to be something touched while doing the booster job,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Your post posted before I posted mine. If throttle cable doesn't allow carb to return to its base idle you will need to work on that. Careful of those things as if you get that wrong the other way when you put gas pedal to floor you are torquing on the carb and can bust it. You won't like the price of that!

T

Response From soulshattered

Well next time I get a day off ill work on this throttle cable. I shall post a new topic when I get to it, I look forward to hearing your advice! Thank you. (ill go ahead and get it ordered)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep it here for now as a problem from doing the booster job. Again you are there looking so have the advantage. My caution about a throttle cable is that the carb itself is NOT supposed to be the stop if you understand me. If you have it just right the gas pedal would be hard to the floor (engine off) right at the point the throttle is wide open at the carb.

One more: If that choke never shuts off you'll have lots of problems from running way too rich,

T

Response From soulshattered

Ok, so after having a my brother-in-law look at it, it appears that the throttle cable was partially messed up where it enters the engine bay (partly due to the massive bending and twisting required to move the master cylinder and brake booster into place). The idle has dropped significantly, still a little high. After burning off the brake fluid that had been previously dumped in the engine. Brakes are good, no fluid drop. Engine idles about 500-1000 higher than normal.

So here is the new and final question on the repair of this damn car.

Can you lower the throttle idle on the carb, as opposed to replacing the entire throttle cable? At this point its a matter of convenience, I DONT want to detach hoses and move this and move that.

This was definitely quite a job, and I am very very grateful for the help and advice yall have given me!

Thank you

Response From soulshattered

/
/
/
/
/
/
/

this is what im working with

Response From soulshattered

I found the pin, got it off.....disconnected the brake pedal. I have one bolt to get to, need a ratchet, which is en route.


I also noticed I had brake fluid leaking from the brake pedal onto my floor mat, just never noticed before. How was a fully functioning brake booster hold the fluid at bay and not into the brake booster itself?

Response From chickenhouse

Brake booster works by using engine vacuum assisting the master cylinder. When the booster fails as well as the master cylinder, that engine vacuum will allow the leaking brake fluid to enter it and be burned through the engine. Brake fluid inside the car justifies a bad master cylinder.