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Centric
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Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 11" Rear Drum
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1981 - Buick Electra Sedan Rear
Centric
Qty:
$12.07
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 11" Rear Drum
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1986 - Buick LeSabre Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.61
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1974 - Buick Regal Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$12.07
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1992 - Buick Commercial Chassis Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.90
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1987 - Buick Regal Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 7/8" Bore
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1966 - Buick Gran Sport Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.34
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 9 1/2" Rear Drum
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1986 - Buick LeSabre RWD Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.02
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 115mm Bolt Circle JA2 JA8
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1989 - Buick Century Coupe Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.02
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 100mm Bolt circle Light Duty JA1
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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1989 - Buick Century Coupe Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.02
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
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Vehicle Position
1997 - Buick Skylark Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.61
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • exc Wagon
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1974 - Buick Estate Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$10.57
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Buick Park Avenue Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.76
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Buick Park Avenue Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.02
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Bolt Mount Perf Pkg
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Buick Skylark Rear
Centric
Qty:
$12.07
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 11" Rear Drum Heavy Duty
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1985 - Buick Electra Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$12.07
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Hearse
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1992 - Buick Roadmaster Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.02
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Bolt Mount
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1987 - Buick Skyhawk Wagon Rear
Centric
Qty:
$9.36
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • Centric Premium Wheel Cylinder
  • Premium Wheel Cylinder-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
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Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Buick Park Avenue Rear
Centric
Qty:
$13.11
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • Centric Premium Wheel Cylinder
  • Premium Wheel Cylinder-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • The Centric Parts brake hydraulic program is the most complete and up-to-date in the industry and includes Brake Master and Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Caliper And Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits And Remanufactured Power Boosters.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Buick Park Avenue Rear
Centric
Qty:
$11.61
Centric Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear
  • C-Tek Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • 11" Rear Drums
  • C-TEK Standard Wheel Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Buick LeSabre Rear

Latest Buick Repair and Wheel Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

rear noise

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From autojoe on rear noise

Have noise comming from right rear.Hear rubbing noise when slowing down to a stop about 15 mph to zerowith brake applied.If you apply brake at standing still and push car you hear a creaking noise.Shoes are good shape.I thought bent rim so I switched both back tires and did not help.The brake drum looked good but I bought new drum and noise went away for 2 weeks but came back again.No noise driving while brakes not applied.Shoes look like even wear.Vehicle is a 1994 buick century.any one run into this or have any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks,Joe

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some possibilities:

Spin that wheel alone while hoisted - listen and feel for any bearing free play. Good bearing make almost no sound at all by hand.

As this seems to happen only when brake is applied it's highly likely related. One sneaky possibility is the backing plate is VERY close to the drum and there is some flex when a brake is applied and it might rub - drum to backing plate. Reinspect that brake carefully for all springs and any shined up parts that show signs of rubbing at all,

T

Response From autojoe

Thanks for reply.I checked backing plate and all brake hardware.I took a hammer and tapped backing plate all around whole area.It is only heard when slow almost to a stop and is a off on off on ect rubbing noise.When I put new drum it went away for a few weeks and then returned.The rear bearing hub assembly is tight and no noise when turned and no noise when not braking.I am going to inspect backing plate more thoroughly.I dont know what to think.I have wireless transmitters that I may clip to area to try to isolate noise....it has to be brake related because it only does it when brakes are applied but only at low speed but maybe it does at higher speed but cant hear until almost at a stop.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - it has to do with brake itself OR because of braking forces?

This may just be one of those "hide and seek" games of catching it or finding some evidence.

? - The axle as an assembly torques some with the force of braking. That assembly may be able to move enough to touch exhaust pipe or something making a noise but there's nothing "rotary" spinning except the wheels, drums and the parts of the wheel bearing/hub that turn.

? - Tire rubber to rim can make noise. I've heard some give a squishy sound - rotary in nature as well as hub caps, trim rings if applicable. Changing inflation pressure for a test or rotating whole wheels to new locations may help isolate a single item/flaw.

? - Contact of wheel to hub and brake drum to hub is subject to corrosion and might be a place with some minimal ability to make noise even with a properly tightened wheel.

? - The bearing itself should utilize a seal on the spindle and the most usual force on it is simply carrying the weight in an up/down of load. When braking the forces push at an angle and a one spot flaw on a race might only "wake" up with pressure at that exact spot. It's more common for bearings noises to be exacerbated by turning but braking also applies to them.

?? - More: Don't ask why but more than once a noise you would swear is from one side is actually from the other!

* I still think of the backing plate and the drum itself with just the slightest touch under the perfect amount of brake force. That type of funky noise is much more common with disc brake dust shields and more on front applications bu could still be the issue. It might show as just one tiny shined up spot on plate or inside drum that could be missed. It's interesting that changing that drum made a two week difference! Thought: With BBQ paint used to paint non friction areas might show a worn off spot later as a testing trick.

<> At some point swapping parts from left to right may be in order - just the ones that can work properly on either side.

Happy hunting

T

Response From autojoe

Thanks tom.........I tapped with a hammer the backing plate around edge and noise disappeared.I did before once and did not affect.It is something that something small like this caused a noise problem like this.Thanks again.Joe

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Itty bitty little rubbing can cause a big noise! See how small the common screech sensors are on disc pads and how much ruckus they can make?

T

Response From autojoe

Hi Tom
guess what.....noise came back.I might take a chance and replace shoes and or rear wheel bearing assembly.First I am going to try to pinpoint exact place of noise with wireless clips.

Response From Tom Greenleaf




Hope the pics show:

OK: Either the backing plate can rub the drum with some flex of braking upon them OR the brake shoes can touch the drum if they could lean out a bit. Either should show some evidence of touching. Note the lube spots where shoes must slide on the backing plate. It's hard to lube those with shoes on but they can get worn in and hang up a shoe or perhaps in the motion lift the show for a momentary noise. It might be time to take off the brakes, clean and painting the backing plate (high temp black , lube where it's supposed to be lubed and install at least the hold-down springs new - whole spring sets are not big bucks anyway.

More: Clean the shoes with "Brak-Kleen" I think is how they spell that product. It's ok to use that on the lining and look for flaws - hairline cracks or if the lining is loose from the metal of the shoe - that's another maybe on this.

Caution: Protect rubber parts from brake cleaners. DON'T breathe any brake dust and don't allow any greases on friction surfaces. Water cleans the dust and some parts off well. They must be fully dry or will drag a bit when first in use even if air dried. Don't allow water to get in any area where brake fluid is involved!

Summary suggestion: Take these shoes off and clean up the whole thing with re lube and careful inspection of the lining and new return/hold down spring kit installed. Use high temp brake lube and just on the exact areas - do the star adjuster too while you're having so much fun

If you find the spot on backing place or spot on metal of shoe It might be a bent backing plate or perhaps a wheel bearing allowing too much end lash (in and out motion) of which there should be near none!

T

Response From autojoe

stil trying to figure noise.Took completely apart and lubed backing plate and shoes and plate look good.Noise went away for a day and then returned.No play in the bearing.the sound starts when braking around 20 mph and then gets louder.I am thinking of replacing hub/bearing assembly only because when I spin wheel when off ground it seems to have some resistance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WOW - This has gone on a while! Let me list out some standard drum brake noise possibilities:

* Drum to backing plate (seems ruled out??)
* Shoe stuck in a worn groove in backing plate (new back plate may be required)
* Broken shoe? loose rivot or bond?
* Cracks in the lining can cause noise
* Hardware somehow not in properly. Wrong spring perhaps. Left and rights should be "mirror" images of each other for lower spring - that is "asymetrically opposite" if you will
* Larger shoe in front instead of back??
* Parking brake issues?
* Wheel cylinder NOT allowing springs to return shoes fully? May have to watch that with drum off but don't let a helper push much with drum off - just enough to move - that's all.
** A not so common maybe - the axle can move in and out too far. Many held by a "C" clip thing inside differentials for RWDs or problem with bearing hub with FWD types that are sealed units. If two separate bearings they may not be snugged up enough OR inner seal can rub on some rust or something??

** Tires to rims or trim parts to wheels can make noise. Temporarily overinflate by about 10psi the noisy tire it may quit. Don't leave it over inflated. If this is a tire to rim noise the tires will have to be removed and goo put on sealing surface to solve that.

** Maybe wheel to drum contact is funky even when properly torqued. You should be safe to put a fingerprint of grease on contact area - make sure lugs are torqued to spec still! (Note) Wheel probably only touches drum in 5 spots which may show evidence??

Just some more guesses to consider........

T

Response From autojoe

Thanks for replies.....no excessive pull in front brakes.No springs on this model just one spring for the self adjuster.Backing plate is smooth.The splash shield is bent a little.I changed drum with new one awhile back and noise stopped for about 2 weeks and then started again.The shoes are bonded and have a lot of material.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Drum brakes have a front and rear return spring not just one for the adjuster! Are we talking about fairly standard drum brakes? If NO return springs what would push back the wheel cylinder?

T

Response From autojoe

it is called a retractor spring but not your typical brake springs.One on each shoe.

Response From Hammer Time

Quick question for you.............

When coming to a stop, do you notice the back end of the car squatting down and the brakes tending to grab a little too much?

Response From jjohnson



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Brake pedal goes to floor

Showing 10 out of 12 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Brake pedal goes to floor

I have been working on my grandmother's 1994 Buick LeSabre for almost a month now. Each time I fix it, something else goes wrong. First I replaced a rusted and leaking brake line going to the right rear wheel cylinder. After a short while, the brake pedal got mushy so I replaced the master cylinder because I couldn't find anymore air in the system. Before I could even get the car out of the garage, the brake line blew out at the rear mounted proportioning valves. I have since replaced all the lines and proportioning valves in the rear of the vehicle. I bled all of the air out of the system and the pedal feels great (stiff), that is until I start the vehicle which is when the pedal goes to the floor. Please help. My grandpa is in a rehabilitation center and my grandma needs to sell the car for extra cash.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Air in the hydraulic system will give you a 'mushy' feeling pedal. If you pump the pedal a time or two, does it get better? I don't like using someone's foot to bleed brakes. It is too easy to damage a master cylinder, that way. But...After bench bleeding, there still may be some air trapped between the master and the lines. All it takes is one itty-bitty bubble to ruin your whole day. Assuming that all of the air has been bled, then I would suspect one of two things...the rear brakes are terribly out of adjustment or a defective master cylinder. Again, assuming, you have no more hydraulic leaks.

Response From Guest

I loosened all the bleeder screws two nights ago and let the fluid run out while topping off the master cylinder so it never went empty. This is called gravity bleeding. I did this just to be sure all of the air was out. Note that I only have the mushy pedal when the engine is running, before that the pedal is solid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Gravity bleeding alone may not be sufficient. The firm pedal when engine is off isn't all that surprising without power booster working so that's unconclusive by itself.

Does this have abs? There could be a different bleed procedure for this. Look if so if there are more bleeders along route.

Not sure just what Loren meant by "someone else's foot" but if you don't have a power bleeder you should have a helper push on pedal and release fluid at bleeders - longest line first, shut bleeder before that foot has realeased pressure on pedal and repeat till no bubbles are seen and continue on thru each brake. If bench bleeding didn't work out well this can be THE problem and may need to be redone.

IMO - gravity alone cal allow a bubble to set at a high spot in lines, force should move it along to bleed out. Double check your connections where you replaced line again also,

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the suggestions. It is an abs system, so I will check to see if there is a special step that I am missing. As far as the regular bleeding goes, I'm almost certain there is no air in the lines. I've bled brakes many times in my life and this is the first time I've had a major (and I mean MAJOR) difference when the vehicle is started. If anyone has any off the wall suggestions I would like to hear them. This is very abnormal for me to even have a problem with a brake pedal when I'm done with the work. Maybe I should buy a dealer manual or maybe I recieved a bad reman master cylinder, which is my uncle's first thought.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Your problem really doesn't sound like air. A low pedal is almost always an adjustment or a master cylinder problem. Rebuilt master cylinder? I wouldn't put a rebuilt unit on my wheel barrow. I've seen too many master cylinders ruptured by having someone push on the brake pedal and allowing it to go all the way to the floor when bleeding. Of course, this shouldn't happen with a new unit. But....
Again; Does the pedal height increase by pumping the pedal? If it does, check your rear brake adjustment. If it has rear disc brakes, apply the e-brake to it's limit, the try again. If none of this helps, I'd suspect the master.

Response From Guest

Thanks. I will install a different master cylinder this weekend and make sure the master cylinder is level also since it is mounted at an angle.

Response From Guest

Ok, my update. I have installed a new master cylinder, bench bled (on vehicle since there is a hose that runs from the master cylinder resevoir to the ABS pressure modulator assembly) then I have continuously bled the complete braking system with a pressure bleeder (no pedal pumping this time). The pedal is stiff until the engine is started then it goes to the floor. The brakes work, but I think only the rear. At this point I have contacted somebody about special procedures for purging air from the ABS pressure modulator assembly and hope to hear back from them soon. If anyone has anymore ideas, please help me.

Response From dude33333

Nick, I hope you solved this problem. I am having the same exact issue. Did bleeding the air from the ABS pressure modulator assembly fix it? please respond!! thanks!!

Eric

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Eric - that thread is older than dirt. Starting your own with your own specifics would help you better,

T

Response From way2old

Just for no other reason than that I am curious, does the master cylinder sit at a fairly steep angle? If it does, jack up rear of vehicle till master is level and try one more time.

Response From Guest

Oh, I forgot to mention that the master cylinder was bled before hooking up the lines. My cousin helped me do it since he had done the same on a car just like this one less than a month ago.